In keeping with the spirit of reenacting as a hobby, the 22nd Arkansas Infantry's uniform standards will display a reasonable degree of authenticity without becoming a financial burden. As a "living historian" your attitude, mannerisms, and proper wear of the uniform are more important than 100% accuracy. Study period photos to see how the uniforms fit, how it matched, and what was worn under different circumstances. Get a copy of Bell I. Wiley's The Life of Johnny Reb , and The Life of Billy Yank. They have to be the best reference for reenactors that you will ever find. Sort of like a "Boy Scout Handbook" for reenactors!

The main manufacturer of uniforms is C & D Jarnigan, Corinth, Mississippi. He has the best compromise between price and quality. Many of the goods that the sutlers sell are from Jarnigan. Catalogs are available and worth the price as a reference book.

We encourage new members to take their time when purchasing uniforms. There is a lot of variety available, and your personality will be expressed in how you dress.

 

Clothing worn in the 19th century was cut differently than modern clothes, and they fit the body differently. Trousers were held up by suspenders, not the hips. The cuffs on military trousers were hemmed at an angle, with 'the front brushing the instep, and the rear lightly dragging in the dust! What we call a shirt was considered an undershirt. It was never worn as an outer garment, especially when women were present. At the minimum, a vest was worn over it. The shoulder seams should be at least 2-3 inches down the arm, not at the shoulder. Remember, nothing was pre-shrunk, a la Levi's, so buy large enough to allow for shrinkage.

 

A mixture of Confederate issue, civilian garb, and Federal items were common through out the war. Since we are often ask to "galvanize', incorporating Fed gear into your Reb impression will save you money and embarrassment later!

 

Branch markings were uncommon on later issue uniforms. Remember that different depots used different patterns, fabrics, and variations thru the war.

 

The basic uniform consists of trousers, jacket, shirt, vest, shoes and hat.

 

Trousers:

Trousers should be the correct military or civilian pattern made of cotton/wool jean cloth. For early

war events, the use of an appropriate civilian material is accurate. The use of Federal Sky Blue Kersey trousers

or white cotton duck material is very highly discouraged. These trousers were either rare or non-existent in the

AOT.  There are several pocket and rear closure styles to choose from. Civilian trousers, of wool, cotton, or linen are acceptable. Get them at least two sizes too big. Remember, they need to be baggy and they will shrink at least one size! Suspenders should be of linen or ticking with flat tabs and japanned or brass buckles. Elastic or rolled leather tabs are not correct!

 

Jacket:

Preferred is a "Columbus Depot" shell jacket In Confederate grey with French blue collar and cuffs. A common shell jacket or sack coat is acceptable. Many light butternut "Tyler depot" shells were issued to Trans-Mississippi units. Buttons should be two piece brass I's. Button holes should be hand stitched (over the machine sewing). If a button was lost, it would be replaced with what ever was at hand, so mixing buttons is appropriate. Some coats were strung entirely with Federal buttons. This is an excellent place to individualize your uniform.

 

Vest:

Any period civilian or military style. It should be worn at all times, unless on fatigue duty. Vests were not issued, but a military style with a stand-up collar was popular.

 

Shirts:

White cotton broadcloth was common. Regulations called for a wool or cotton flannel, but I have never seen a reenactor wear one! Any correct style of neck closure and pocket variation is acceptable. Civilian shirts with a large variety of patterns and colors were worn. Fancy shirts had fancy buttons and plain shirts had plain buttons.

 

Socks:

White or grey knit wool are preferred. Cotton anklets (gym socks) were common.

Shoes: US M1851 Jefferson brogans are most acceptable. Some civilian style boots are still popular, but will have to be resoled. No Cowboy or combat boots! This undistinguished item should be your first purchase. Because of the expense, few reenactors have a spare pair of shoes to loan out. Incorrect shoes and eyeglasses are glaringly obvious and seriously detract form your overall impression. Brogans are expensive but they will last forever if properly cared for.

 

Hat:

Black or brown wool felt hats of high quality are preferred. They should be lined and have a 1/2 inch ribbon sewn to the crown and brim. Light colors were avoided because they showed dirt too easily. Other choices would be wheel hats (US M1839 or civilian variations), straw skimmers, or kepi/bummers. Many Hardee hats were issued to Federal troops. Men of the period used hats to designate their social class, so yours should be carefully chosen to reflect your personality. This is another area where a study of period photos will be helpful. Cowboy hats, hillbilly hats and Indiana Jones hats are not correct.

 

Accouterments are the tools and implements that make a soldier able to fight. They are what he strapped on when the "Long Roll" sounded.

 

Canteen:

Any common style is acceptable. This should be your second purchase because of health and safety. Wooden canteens should be made of hardwood, not pine. This is another area where a Yank item will save you some money when you are ask to galvanize.

 

Cup:

Any heavy tin cup or mucket will do. Stainless steel is not recommended.

 

Haversack:

Any common issue or home-made style is acceptable. Mexican War Issue was common early in the war. This is another good Yank item to buy. Home-made ones are cheap and easy. Haversacks carry your eating utensils and rations. They shouldn't be stuffed with cigars, cards, books, and such truck. They would quickly get filthy from carrying raw meat and meal. "Johnny Reb" gives some vivid descriptions of well seasoned haversacks!

 

Utensils:

Use tin! Stay away from cast iron for the same reason the soldiers did. It's too damn heavy to carry around! Grey or black speckled enamel is OK, but wasn't common. The blue stuff is cowboy era. Don't use it! Keep it simple and down to a minimum. A small skillet, a tin plate, and a mucket should be all you need. Forks should be three prong with bone or wood handles. Knives should have a straight taper, rounded end, and wood or bone handle. Fiddle back spoons were common. These are items that can easily be found in junk shops cheaply.

 

Musket:

Due to the great variety of weapons issued, any documented military style musket will be allowed. US M1841 (Mississippi Rifles), US M1861 and US M1855 Springfields, and 1853 Pattern Enfields were among the most common. Three-banders are preferred, but some two banders are acceptable. The inexpensive Navy Arms "Zouave" rifles are not permitted at some events. Many of them are easily modified to acceptable types, though. Bayonets and scabbards are required. Civilian sporting and hunting rifles are not acceptable; unless documentation indicates they were used at a particular action.

 

Swords and pistols were carried by officers and NCOs only.

Period correct Bowies are OK, but discouraged. Many soldiers carried them when they left home, and left them behind at their first bivouac! The first fatality that Stanford's Mississippi Battery experienced was at Shiloh, where a cannonner fell and accidentally stabbed himself In the thigh with his Bowie!

 

Leather:

Wastbelt, cap pouch and cartridge box. Any correct issue type is acceptable. The belt should be heavy leather, two inches wide. The belt plate may be an inverted US, square CS, state militia plate, or US M1855 NCO. Forked tongue, harness roller, and Georgia frame buckles were common. The belt was worn over the navel, not on resting on the hips. Belts held up your accouterments, not your britches!

 

Blankets:

They should be brown or grey wool. Blue is OK, but stay away from OD green. Old cotton / wool patchwork quilts, or even pieces of Victorian pattern wool carpets may be used.

 

Optional equipment: Your tent should be a dog or wedge tent. Wall tents are OK for larger groups, but they are expensive, heavy, and hard to pitch. A fly is a nice addition and one of the more useful pieces of canvas. It will provide shade, protection from rain, and a nice gathering spot for friends. A fly is lighter and easier to pitch than a wall tent, but does not provide any privacy, A fly is cooler than a tent in the summer, and no colder than a tent In the winter. Under some conditions, a small cook fire can be built under one.

There are many other things you will want to get to make life in camp more comfortable. Ponchos and gum blankets are handy and serve a lot of purposes.

A camp stool is a necessity. The small folding canvas types are common, but not as rugged as they should be. One legged "milking stools" would be a better choice, and are something that could be made from scrap lumber at no cost.

Candle lanterns make midnight trips to the pee tree easier and safer! Barn or railroad lanterns that burn kerosene are not correct. Incidentals like playing cards, bottles, pipes, housewives, combs, etc. can fit your taste and pocketbook. Just be sure they are period correct.

 

Notes from the Captain.

 

All reenactors go through an "acquisition" stage in this hobby. You will see all manner of things you can't live without. Soon you will have the wagon loaded with things you never use, and will spend more time loading and unloading than you do reenacting! Next, you will start leaving a little bit more behind each trip, until you reach a state of equilibrium.

This is normal. Don't worry about it. Use it to your advantage. Find someone who has advanced past this stage and buy their impedimenta at a dime on the dollar! Then, when you have reached equilibrium, spread all of your surplus stuff out under a shade tree for the newbies In the hobby to buy!

Spend a little time at yard sales, flea markets, and junk shops. If you know what you are looking for much of your gear can be purchased very cheaply this way. Cots, stools, buttons by the quart, skillets, plates and eating tools are surprisingly common still.