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How to Add a Pocket to Your Civil War Uniform Jacket
By Paula McCoach
Adding a pocket to your shell jacket is not only useful but very authentic also. As I always say, look at original photos of jackets with pockets. You decide which pocket style you like. Check ECHOES OF GLORY: ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OF THE CONFEDERACY and ECHOES OF GLORY: ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OF THE UNION.
Adding a pocket will upgrade your jacket. I put one on the left side of my jacket, and it is really handy. Check original photos for pocket placements and styles. Pockets were very common.
These simple tailoring techniques will upgrade a less expensive jacket, making it more functional as well as valuable while staying authentic.
In terms of a suitable jacket, a shell jacket is best because in the heat, you have a little more ventilation. I would get a 7 or 9 button jacket. I prefer the rounded type collar like the Jenkins, Royall, and Greer jackets all on pages 134-5 in ECHOES OF GLORY: ARMS AND EQUIPMENT OF THE CONFEDERACY. The reason I like the rounded collar is that the square collar can dig into your neck in the heat.
For the generic Confederate, fit in anywhere, "lotta bang for the buck jacket," I don't think you can beat the shell jacket. I personally like the Royall jacket. It has the right look. I like the collar; it’s a little bit rounded.
For actual pictures of completed pockets on reproduction jackets, go to http://www.civilwaruniforms.net/jackets.htm Below are instructions for adding a pocket to your shell jacket.
To see the sketches, go to http://www.civilwaruniforms.net/addingapocket.htm
Figures 1 and 2 - Jacket with pocket on the left side.
Pocket is most common on left side because the majority of people are right handed. But, if you are left handed, you can put your pocket on the right side. Pocket can be straight or at an angle. The material for the pocket can be the same or a different wool as the jacket. Pockets on original uniforms were usually handmade and not always a good quality job.
Important note: adding a pocket took me about 4 hours, and I have been making Civil War uniforms for years. I found that this procedure requires advanced sewing skills. If you don't feel up to it, get a seamstress or tailor to add the pocket. You don't want to ruin your shell jacket.
Hopefully, at this stage in my reenacting and sewing career, it would not take me as long, but it was a definite learning curve for me when I first added the pocket. Try putting a pocket on a sample of fabric before actually putting it on your jacket.
Also, the easiest way to add a pocket is as you are making the jacket - not after it is already made.
Figures 3and 4
Figure 3- sew cotton and wool pieces together. The size of the cotton and wool piece should be about 6-7" deep - large enough for you to put your hand in the pocket. The pocket I made was about 5 1/2" wide and it extended almost to within an inch or two of the bottom of my shell jacket.
The rows of letter "A" are the sewing lines. The forked line is the clip line for the opening of the pocket.
Figure 4- Sew pocket to jacket front. Be sure to put the two good sides together. Clip on clip line. Turn pocket inside the jacket and press. Sew inside of pocket together.
Figure 5 shows three illustrations of the flap of the pocket. The top illustration shows the folded piece of wool that will be the flap of the pocket. Below this folded pocket is the opening of the pocket. The placement of the bottom edge of the folded flap goes inside the pocket opening. The last flap picture shows the completed flap with the hand stitching down the sides. Hand stitch here because this will show on the outside of the jacket.
For actual pictures of completed pockets on reproduction jackets, go to http://www.civilwaruniforms.net/jackets.htm
For more information on Early, Mid,
and Late war jackets
send an email to jackets@civilwaruniforms.net
2004 permission granted to reprint this article in print or on your Web site so long as the contact information is included to coach@civilwaruniforms.netCoach McCoach has been a Civil War reenactor for 27 years. He has recreated many of his own Civil War uniform articles by researching and recreating jackets, haversacks, suspenders, original reproduction stencils, and haversack items. For more information email coach@civilwaruniforms.net
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