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Loosen and remove the
intake piping. (picture)
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Disconnect throttle
cable. Loosen and remove the 4 bolts (or nuts) from throttle body.
Remove all hoses from the throttle body and hook them around something
to keep them out of the way. Remove throttle body from car. (picture)
(picture)
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Jack up the car and put
two jack stands under the tabs behind the front wheels to support the
car.
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Support the engine. We
lifted the engine using a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood to disperse
the force. We chose the oil pan as the spot to support the engine.
Choose whatever spot you feel comfortable with. We will not be
responsible for any damage you cause to your engine or oil pan.
You can also lift from right where the tranny meets the engine. We
had to switch to this spot later on after having a problem with the
engine sagging too much for the bolt for the rear mount to go through.
We didn't feel comfortable putting that much more pressure on the oil
pan, so we lowered the motor back down, and moved the jack to over by
the tranny more, and it worked perfect. (picture)
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Now to get to the fun
stuff. You now need to take off the front metal support that
connects from the motor to the front mount. It is held on by 3
bolts at the block and one long bolt through the mount itself.
Take out the long bolt through the mount first before loosening the
bolts to the block. Best to use a 1/2" driver w/ extension and
17mm socket with a breaker bar in order to break it loose and then
switch to a 3/8" driver to get more rotation (smaller "clicks"). You
will only get a few clicks at a time and the bolt is loooong. Be patient
and you will eventually get the bolt out. (picture)
(picture)
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Next, take out the 3
bolts at the block, they are 14mm. (picture)
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The metal support should
now be loose. Remove it from the car. (picture)
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On each side of the
mount, squeeze in one of the front motor mount inserts. They only
fit one way and the front ES inserts are different from the rear
inserts. Basically, you can’t screw up how they go in! (picture)
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Reattach the metal
support. It will fit snug against the motor mount with the inserts
inside. Rethread the middle bolt and the 3 that attach to the block, but
don’t torque them yet.
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Unlike the front, the
entire rear mount comes out. It’s attached by (3) 14 mm bolts and one
long 17mm bolt through the middle of the mount. Remove the long 17mm
bolt first using the same method as in the front. Breaker bar is a must.
(picture)
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Next, string together
all your extensions with a universal joint extender and a 14 mm socket.
If you don't have the universal joint it will be hard because the intake
manifold is above the bolts. If you have the joint you are able to
angle it out from under the intake manifold, which will allow use of a
breaker bar. Remove each of the three 14mm bolts that hold the
mount to the crossmember. (picture)
(picture)
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Now you need to remove
the mount from the car to install the inserts. It is a little
tricky getting the mount out of the car after you have removed all the
bolts. There is a line behind the mount that gets in the way of
just pulling it up and out. It is best to scoot the mount back a
little, then you have to angle it up and out. Kind of hard to
explain, just mess with it and you'll figure it out. This pic is
of us putting the mount back in, but it gives you the idea of angling it
in/out. (picture)
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Insert the remaining two
motor mount inserts into the rear mount. We highly recommend that you
shave/cut off a little bit of the corner of the insert on each side
where the mount has screw holes (see picture). This enables the screws
to go back in without being interfered with by the edge of the motor
mount inserts that stick out a little far. (picture)
(picture)
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After putting the
inserts in and cutting the edge of the insert, reinstall the mount in
the car using the tilt method mentioned above. Thread the 17mm
bolt that goes through the mount in first before the 3 that hold the
mount down. Once you get that started through, thread the (3) 14mm
bolts that hold the mount to the crossmemeber back in. If the 14mm bolts
don't seem to line up right you may need to manipulate the jack height
or position to get the motor where it's supposed to be. (picture)
(picture)
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Torque down the rear
17mm bolt, the (3) 14mm rear bolts, the (3) 14mm front bolts on the
block, and the 17mm bolt through the front mount.
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You can now lower the
jack that was holding up the motor. Also go ahead and take out the
jack stands and lower the car back to the ground so it's easier to
reinstall the rest.
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Reinstall your throttle
body. Attach the throttle cable making sure to set the slack
right. If you have some carb cleaner laying around, you might want
to take this time to clean out your throttle body and/or intake
manifold.
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Reinstall your intake
tubing and attach all hoses to the intake and throttle body.
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Start your car and enjoy
all your new rattles!