How to Install Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts on 92-96 Honda Prelude

Written By 4bidden and 92H22A of PreludeOnline

 

Tools needed:

  • Energy Suspension Inserts (www.suspension.com)

  • 1/2" ratchet (also 3/8" and 1/4" if possible)

  • 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets

  • Breaker bar (we used the handle of a hydraulic jack)

  • Universal Joint (pictured here)

  • As many extensions as you can get (THIS is a man's tool!)

Instructions:

  1. Loosen and remove the intake piping. (picture)

  2. Disconnect throttle cable.  Loosen and remove the 4 bolts (or nuts) from throttle body.  Remove all hoses from the throttle body and hook them around something to keep them out of the way.  Remove throttle body from car. (picture) (picture)

  3. Jack up the car and put two jack stands under the tabs behind the front wheels to support the car.

  4. Support the engine. We lifted the engine using a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood to disperse the force. We chose the oil pan as the spot to support the engine. Choose whatever spot you feel comfortable with. We will not be responsible for any damage you cause to your engine or oil pan.  You can also lift from right where the tranny meets the engine.  We had to switch to this spot later on after having a problem with the engine sagging too much for the bolt for the rear mount to go through.  We didn't feel comfortable putting that much more pressure on the oil pan, so we lowered the motor back down, and moved the jack to over by the tranny more, and it worked perfect.  (picture)

  5. Now to get to the fun stuff.  You now need to take off the front metal support that connects from the motor to the front mount.  It is held on by 3 bolts at the block and one long bolt through the mount itself.
    Take out the long bolt through the mount first before loosening the bolts to the block.  Best to use a 1/2" driver w/ extension and 17mm socket with a breaker bar in order to break it loose and then switch to a 3/8" driver to get more rotation (smaller "clicks"). You will only get a few clicks at a time and the bolt is loooong. Be patient and you will eventually get the bolt out. (picture) (picture)

  6. Next, take out the 3 bolts at the block, they are 14mm. (picture)

  7. The metal support should now be loose. Remove it from the car. (picture)

  8. On each side of the mount, squeeze in one of the front motor mount inserts.  They only fit one way and the front ES inserts are different from the rear inserts.  Basically, you can’t screw up how they go in! (picture)

  9. Reattach the metal support. It will fit snug against the motor mount with the inserts inside. Rethread the middle bolt and the 3 that attach to the block, but don’t torque them yet.

  10. Unlike the front, the entire rear mount comes out. It’s attached by (3) 14 mm bolts and one long 17mm bolt through the middle of the mount. Remove the long 17mm bolt first using the same method as in the front. Breaker bar is a must. (picture)

  11. Next, string together all your extensions with a universal joint extender and a 14 mm socket.  If you don't have the universal joint it will be hard because the intake manifold is above the bolts.  If you have the joint you are able to angle it out from under the intake manifold, which will allow use of a breaker bar.  Remove each of the three 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the crossmember. (picture) (picture)

  12. Now you need to remove the mount from the car to install the inserts.  It is a little tricky getting the mount out of the car after you have removed all the bolts.  There is a line behind the mount that gets in the way of just pulling it up and out.  It is best to scoot the mount back a little, then you have to angle it up and out.  Kind of hard to explain, just mess with it and you'll figure it out.  This pic is of us putting the mount back in, but it gives you the idea of angling it in/out. (picture)

  13. Insert the remaining two motor mount inserts into the rear mount. We highly recommend that you shave/cut off a little bit of the corner of the insert on each side where the mount has screw holes (see picture). This enables the screws to go back in without being interfered with by the edge of the motor mount inserts that stick out a little far. (picture) (picture)

  14. After putting the inserts in and cutting the edge of the insert, reinstall the mount in the car using the tilt method mentioned above.  Thread the 17mm bolt that goes through the mount in first before the 3 that hold the mount down.  Once you get that started through, thread the (3) 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the crossmemeber back in. If the 14mm bolts don't seem to line up right you may need to manipulate the jack height or position to get the motor where it's supposed to be. (picture) (picture)

  15. Torque down the rear 17mm bolt, the (3) 14mm rear bolts, the (3) 14mm front bolts on the block, and the 17mm bolt through the front mount.

  16. You can now lower the jack that was holding up the motor.  Also go ahead and take out the jack stands and lower the car back to the ground so it's easier to reinstall the rest.

  17. Reinstall your throttle body.  Attach the throttle cable making sure to set the slack right.  If you have some carb cleaner laying around, you might want to take this time to clean out your throttle body and/or intake manifold.

  18. Reinstall your intake tubing and attach all hoses to the intake and throttle body.

  19. Start your car and enjoy all your new rattles! 

Contact:

  • If you have any questions about this install, feel free to email either one of us at 4bidden@cox.net or jcor16@qwest.net.  Good luck and happy installs!