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Pre
Delivery Inspection (PDI) Checklist
for Trailer & 5th
Wheel Purchases

The goal of this
PDI narrative is to give the new trailer owner “food for thought”
for when they take delivery of their new RV. Many people don’t
think about these things in detail until months later, when
a problem arises during their first camping trip and spoils
the outing for everyone. By then, the dealer’s service center
is booked for the season and the owner has little or no alternative
than to schedule a repair and wait.
I
advocate a full “New Owner PDI” while the trailer is still on
the dealer’s lot and still belongs to the dealer. Only
when everything in the trailer is cosmetically and functionally
correct should the new owner sign the paperwork and take delivery.
Don’t allow yourself to be pressured into accepting the trailer
before you are satisfied! This way, new trailer problems can
be quickly and easily corrected and the parties involved can
do so on a clear commercial basis.
This list is a compilation of several available on the net along with ideas
and suggestions from my own experience, thinking & reading.
No guarantees are made on the efficiency or correctness of these
procedures or that your dealer will agree to any or all of them
(although he should!)-Your mileage may vary.
If you don’t understand some of the procedures, bring a knowledgeable friend
or have the dealer PDI person demonstrate & explain in detail
to help your understanding. A still camera or video camera is
useful to have during the PDI for your future reference.
Please email me with comments or suggestions.
Tom Boles
SF Bay
Tom_boles@yahoo.com
STARTING
POINT — A flashlight with a strong beam is a useful tool to
have. A screwdriver with a straight, Philips and square bits
will come in handy as well. You should also have available the
delivery invoice for the trailer. It will show all the standard
equipment and ordered options and should be compared to what
you thought you ordered and should be referred to during your
inspection.
You
will need the understanding & cooperation of your dealer
for this process, as it probably involves far more depth &
detail than they normally anticipate and schedule for. Make
sure they know about it in advance. (You may get a better-prepared
trailer if you do!) At the very least, tell the person doing
the “owner inspection” or “walk through” what you intend to
do, give him or her a copy of this checklist and work with them
to plan the time accordingly. A sense of humor will also come
in handy!
Finally,
my assumption for this PDI is that both (if fitted) propane
tanks are full, shore power is available, city water and a hose
are located close by and sewer connections, a drain or a dump
station is available. A fully charged battery must be connected
as well.
OUTSIDE WALK AROUND — The outside walk around should take around one hour.
At this point, you’re generally searching for anything that
does not look right.
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1.
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Roof
Sealing & Fixtures— You will need to get up on
the roof here, so round up a ladder or carefully inspect
the one on the back of the unit. Check that all the mounting
points are solidly attached to the body and the rungs
are firmly fixed to the frame.
Climb on the roof and inspect all seams, gaskets and any other place that
the roof material has been cut or holes drilled.
Check that all shrouds & covers are intact, unbroken and properly seated
on the roof. Proper polyurethane caulking should have
been used to seal all places where the roof has been penetrated.
Check closely around air conditioners, vents, antennas, sewer vents, and side
seams.
Look for any signs of bubbles (large and small), delamination, foreign objects
or protruding screw or nail heads under the membrane (if
a rubber roof).
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2.
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Windows — check closely around each window to make sure it has been properly aligned and sealed.
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3.
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Entry Doors — check the gasket used on all doors for proper adhesive and coverage.
Look closely at the door from the inside and confirm that it sits flush against the inside of the doorjamb.
Confirm that each key works in the appropriate lock.
The main door should open & close smoothly and lock with out undue effort.
Check that the screen door opens smoothly alone and locks to the main door without any extra effort.
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4.
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Baggage
Compartments — open and close each door checking for alignment and
gasketing.
Confirm
that each key works in the appropriate lock
All
hinges should be tight and secure and the latches should
hold the door tightly closed and still be easy to open.
Look
for any signs of moisture that might indicate rain leakage.
Verify
that compartment lighting (if fitted) works properly.
Any
gas cylinders used for keeping to door open should be
properly installed so as not to interfere with items stored
in the compartment. If clamp-type door hold-opens are
used, make sure they are present and hold the door correctly.
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5.
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Sewer
& Fresh Water Connections
— Inspect this area on the trailer to make sure that nothing
is broken or deformed.
If appropriate at this time, make sure you understand how each valve or fitting
works.
Understand the proper function of the black and gray water valves.
If tank flushing is installed, understand how it operates.
Understand where the low point drains are for the fresh water system.
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6.
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Telephone
& Cable TV Connections— Find and understand the telephone and cable connections.
Make sure a weather cap is present for each connector and that connectors
are properly identified & mounting plates are properly
sealed.
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7.
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Propane —If the tank(s) are contained in a compartment, here
should be no possible way for propane to enter into the
RV or any other compartment.
Understand how the regulator works and how it switches between cylinders.
Confirm that a leak test has been performed on both pigtails between the tanks
and regulator and the rest of the system.
Locate and understand the operation of the main shut off valve (if any).
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8.
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Battery — Check the battery box to verify that it is ventilated
and that any compartment slide mechanisms work properly.
Verify that no battery cables are rubbing on any part of the frame because
that will eventually end up with a short circuit and possible
fire.
Understand the battery type provided and how to maintain them.
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9.
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Paint & Siding— Carefully check the paint finish
on the RV. Any problems can be verified and corrected
at this point with a lot less hassle.
Site down the side of the unit to check for bumps or depressions in the siding.
Divide each side of the unit into 2, 3 or 4 sections and inspect for siding
issues: color variations, dents or irregularities.
Do the same for the ends of the unit
Look at places where vinyl film is used to make sure it is free of any air
bubbles.
Check ends of any decals for uniformity or “mistakes” that may have gouged
the siding.
Look
closely where masking tape was used for paint graphics
to make sure there is no over-spray.
Carefully check for surface smoothness and any place when paint coverage is
marginal or where there are bubbles.
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10.
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Tires
and Wheels
— Closely inspect the tires and wheels and understand
the proper inflation pressure.
Verify the torque of the lug nuts or have the PDI person do it while you watch.
Find out the proper jacking point for the trailer and what kind of jack to
use.
Determine if your tow vehicle lug nut wrench will fit the lug nuts on the
trailer or if another size is necessary.
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11.
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Spare
Tire — Check the condition & pressure of the spare
tire.
Understand how the carrier works if it is the fold-down type.
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12.
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Awnings — Extend and retract each awning paying particular
attention to how the awning is locked in the retracted
position.
Make sure all springs, locks and supports work well and are properly aligned.
Wiggle the mounting points for the support arms to get a feeling for how solidly
they are mounted to the body.
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13.
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Chassis
Inspection
— Put on some old clothes or coveralls and get a good-sized
piece of cardboard or carpet to make it easier to lie
on you back while checking around under the trailer. If
it’s possible to do so without jacking up the rig, it’s
a lot easier, but do what makes sense to you.
You want to be able to Inspect all air and / or hydraulic lines, wiring, shock
absorber attachments, and in general every place that
a wire or pipe could rub against something that could
cause a problem later.
All wiring and piping should be properly fastened.
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14.
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Slide
Out Operation
— If your RV includes a slide-out or slide-outs then spend
the time it takes to understand its operation.
Start by checking the seals while the slide is retracted.
You should not be able to find any places where you can see light or detect
airflow.
Use a flashlight to look into dark corners.
Understand the mechanism that extends and retracts the slide.
Operate it several times and understand any restrictions on operation.
Understand the manual retraction process and actually perform the retraction
as if the automatic mechanism had failed.
Look for proper alignment of any wheels that may ride on carpet or other flooring,
to insure proper clearance.
Understand any locking mechanisms that are used to hold the top of the slide
out tight against the top of the RV.
Do your best to make sure the seals are properly installed and operational
when the slide is retracted and also when it is extended.
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INSIDE
FIT AND FINISH — Now its time to go inside. In general you are looking for things that are
not finished correctly since it is too late to inspect the design
of anything.
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15.
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Cabinets — Inspect & open all of the cabinets to insure
that all the hinges and latches work well.
Pull each drawer out to its stop, return it closed and then try to open it
like road vibration might do.
Makes sure that there have been no water leaks and that all the wiring and
pipes are well fastened.
Inspect the linings (if any), to insure they are fastened securely.
Run your hand along all edges, front & back to check for and delamination
or loose edges on molding or vinyl wraps.
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16.
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Molding
& trim —
Go over all the trim on walls, doors & furniture.
Make sure that everything is fastened on well and not loose or ready to come
off.
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17.
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Lighting — Operate every light switch and observe its function.
Use the monitor panel to check battery levels.
Understand
and verify any battery disconnect switches.
(At this point, only 12V lighting can be tested, as the unit is NOT connected
to shore power yet)
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18.
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Closets —open and close all closet doors checking for free
operation and proper alignment.
Hanger rods should be properly fastened and secure.
Check out the lighting that is provided and any switches that are used.
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19.
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Furniture — Examine every piece of furniture to check for construction,
upholstery, pattern and cloth matching.
Check out the dinette by making it a bed with the appropriate cushions.
Do the same with the couch or sofa.
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20.
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Blinds — Operate each blind and check for alignment.
Look at all valances and trim to be sure they are secured.
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21.
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Counter
Tops — Inspect all counter tops for alignment and fastening.
Make sure that any trim pieces that should be there are in fact tight.
Check for caulking quality everywhere there may be water, especially edges
near a sink.
Check the installation of sinks and faucets.
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22.
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Windows — Open and close every window and operate the latches.
Pay particular attention to the two safety egress windows or emergency windows
and make sure they operate smoothly & easily.
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23.
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Floor
Coverings —
Inspect carpet and other floor coverings in all corners
to insure that they have been properly fastened down.
Check areas that slide outs may roll over for pulled threads, cuts or other
problems.
Check closely for gouges or cuts in linoleum tile.
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24.
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Wall
Coverings —
Check to make sure that all the wall coverings actually
cover and join properly.
Look for any discoloration or patch jobs that may cover hidden problems.
Try to find any places where it is not perfect since now is the time to get
it fixed while matching patterns are in stock.
(Some folks suggest ordering extra fabric, carpet, and wallpaper now so that
matching material is available to make small modifications
or repairs at a later date.)
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OPERATION
TEST OF ALL HOUSE SYSTEMS — You should be about two hours into to the PDI by now and you are ready
to test all of the house type systems.
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25.
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Shore
Power System—
Now is the time to connect up to shore power.
Pull out all of the AC cord, confirm the length and inspect the plug for proper
attachment.
Inside the unit, check any 110V lighting and switches.
(If you have a 110V receptacle tester, check all outlets for proper wiring/polarity.)
Find the GFI-protected outlet and test using the push button.
Understand which receptacles “down stream” from the GFI are protected.
Any electrical problems here should be corrected immediately.
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26.
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Converter — Confirm the operation of the converter/charger
that is installed.
Turn on several interior lights to create a load for the converter and confirm
no excessive converter noise or vibration.
Have the PDI person explain the operation of the converter, the AC circuit
breakers and the DC fuses.
Make sure that there is a written list of the loads connected to each.
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27.
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Water
Pump — Your PDI person should have filled the fresh water
tank, so now you can test the function of the water pump.
After turning it on, you should hear it pump for several seconds, even up
to a minute to create enough pressure in the system.
If the pump does not shut off, then there is a problem.
Run water in the kitchen and bathroom sink and notice that the pump will come
back on until proper water pressure is restored.
Now is the time to fix a noisy pump if it is vibrating or making any irritating
sounds.
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28.
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City
Water System —
Turn off the pump, connect up to city water (use a regulator
if overly high pressure is suspected) and confirm that
the connection works correctly.
Look
for leaks under sinks and confirm the operation of all
fixtures.
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29.
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Tankage — Re-fill the fresh water tank if necessary and run
water into the gray tank to verify the gauge reading and
that there are no leaks.
Filling the gray tank until water comes up in the shower will make it easier
to find leaks inside & out.
Do
the same thing to the black water tank, including filling
so that water comes up inside the toilet. Check for leaks
(if the toilet is installed correctly, there will be no
leaks!) You can fill the black water tank by using the
tank flushing system (if fitted), by using a garden hose
adapter for the sewer connection (through a backflow preventer)
or by bringing the water hose inside and filling the tank
through the toilet. This last method can be a little cumbersome,
and I don’t recommend unless you’ve done it before.
Check the gauges for accuracy while you are filling
Now is the time you want to find leaks if there are any.
Drain the gray and black water tanks using the sewer hose or the garden hose
adapter.
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30.
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Water
Heater — Try the water heater on propane first.
A few seconds after you turn it on, you should hear the click of the igniter
and the small pop when the burner lights.
The red light should stay on until that process happens.
If it does not ignite, then there is a problem.
Turn the AC element in the water heater (if connected) and confirm operation.
Make sure you know the location of the electrical switch at the water heater
and the correct operation of the interior switch.
If your unit is so equipped, understand the operation of the bypass valves
for winterizing.
Confirm that hot (or warm water depending on how long the water heater has
been on) comes out of the hot tap at the various sinks.
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31.
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Furnace — Now its time to understand the operation of the
thermostat that controls heating and sometimes the air
conditioning.
Turn the furnace on and set a temperature demand that is at least 10 degrees
hotter than ambient temperature.
In about 30 seconds, you should hear the furnace fans come on.
Shortly thereafter you should hear the click of the igniter and the sound
of the burner. If not then there is a problem. It could
also be taking a while for propane to get to the heater,
so don’t despair.
Let the furnace blow and you should get hot air at about 110 degrees coming
out of all vents. Check each one.
Now turn the furnace down and the hot air will gradually turn cooler and the
fans will eventually stop after the furnace has cooled
sufficiently.
During this process have someone with a good nose checking for any smell of
material getting too hot, or exhaust coming out.
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Air
Conditioners
— Some air conditioners also have a heat strip or heat
pump feature so now is the time to verify these functions.
Turn on the air conditioner.
After a couple of minutes, cool air, 20 degrees cooler than ambient, should
be coming out of the registers.
If you unit has ducting in the ceiling, make sure a good airflow comes out
of each register.
Learn how to clean the filters at this time.
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33.
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Propane
and Carbon Monoxide Alarms&
Smoke Detector— now is a good time to check the function
of these alarms.
The PDI person should have a small canister of gas that can be sprayed at
the alarm to test its operation.
Have
them perform this test while you watch and learn how the
alarms work.
Confirm that there is a new battery in the Smoke Detector (write the date
on it for reference)
Activate the test button to check operation of the smoke detector. Understand
how to turn it off.
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Refrigerator — Most modern refrigerators work on propane or AC
and have an automatic mode that gives preference to AC
and then will switch to propane if AC power is not available.
Understand the controls and the status lights and set the unit on propane.
The RV may need to be unplugged for this to happen.
Go outside to the refrigerator vent grill and make sure that the propane heating
column is lit and heating.
While the refrigerator grill is open, check to make sure the drain line is
positioned for proper drainage.
Set the temperature at the highest cooling setting, because setting it to
lowest will typically cause the coils to collect moisture
and ice up.
Come back in about 10 minutes to feel that the coil/fins is actually starting
to cool.
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TV
VCR Antenna and Switching
—For the most through test, bring a small AC/DC TV with
you for the initial test.
Review and understand the switching system that allows the selection of viewing
channel on the front and rear TV.
Raise the TV UHF/VHF antenna and learn how to turn on the amplifier and the
DC outlet.
Find out the power rating of the DC outlet and compare it to the load of the
equipment you will connect to it.
Activate the control on the front TV that scans for local stations.
Learn how to rotate the antenna to maximize the quality of the picture.
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Air
Vents — Test the operation of kitchen and bathroom air
vents making sure they open and turn on properly (if powered).
Verify that they retract and close tightly.
Check any other vents for proper operation.
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Microwave — Put a cup of cold water in the microwave and set
the timer for 5 minutes.
The
water in the cup should boil in less than 5 minutes.
Make sure there are no unusual sounds coming from the Microwave.
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Propane
Stove — Turn
on one burner of the stovetop while the AC’s and Microwave
are running and the automatic igniters should cause a
strong spark to light the burner.
Turn on the other burners to verify that there is enough propane flow to operate
the refrigerator, water heater and all the burners.
If everything is OK, turn off the burners on the stove.
If your unit has an oven, then understand how the pilot is lit and verify
its operation now.
Note: Sometimes the burner igniters interfere with the operation of the thermostats
for the roof AC. This is the time to find this problem.
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Summary —
You have now done a simple test of the major house systems and
can shut everything off. By now, you will have a list of things
that you feel need correcting, but it may be then the end of
the day, so plan on camping near the dealer for the night. This
will give you a chance to further test the various functions.
Prepare yourself for waiting until these things are corrected
and don’t be tempted by the PDI person to sign the acceptance
paperwork just yet. For a really serious checkout of your new
trailer, you should "dry camp" the first night and
not be tempted to hook up to shore utilities just yet. Bring
enough kitchen equipment and food so that you can prepare an
evening meal. There is no better way to test the living facilities
than to actually use them. Don’t be tempted, since you’ve had
a tough day to go out to eat.
ACCEPTANCE
— When you are satisfied that all systems are "go"
then sign the acceptance papers that the PDI person will anxiously
provide for you. Schedule your first return trip to the dealer
for about a week to a month from now. You are now ready to take
your "shake down" cruise.
SHAKE
DOWN CRUISE — Select an interesting destination about 100
miles away for your maiden voyage. Actually use all the systems
multiple times to try to detect and infant failures (electronic
equipment fails at greater rates at the beginning of its life).
Carefully note any problems or discrepancies in a list and make
a copy for the dealer when you take the trailer in again.
GOOD
LUCK!

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