Stage 5 - Nitro Black

 

 

Alrighty then...  Your body is primered, smooth, flat, and ready to paint.  The paint I used was the Black Gloss Nitrocellulose lacquer from Stewart McDonald.  I only needed one can to do 2 nice coats, 1/2 can per coat.  The cost of this paint is $8.99.  I also ordered 3 cans of the Clear Gloss Nitro lacquer.  If you buy three or more, they are $7.99 each. 

BTW.  WEAR A FREAKIN' MASK.  This stuff is nasty, and will coat your lungs with some nice chemical resin, and help you die sooner.  Wear a mask.

 
  Before I sprayed, I remasked the body using the same method I used when applying the primer coat.  I took off all of the original masking because I wanted to check how tight my primer line was, and I was dead on.  What I also did was to nudge the mask tape up a bit all around the top, to be absolutely certain that the black paint did not miss any spots.  The top is going to be resanded before I apply my veneer, so I was not at all concerned about small amounts of black paint making it onto the top of the body.  This is photo 1 of my first "pass".  I usually do 3 passes per coat.
 
  Another shot, different angle.  AVOID RUNS at all costs here.  For the first few passes, err on the dry side of painting, don't go too wet.  You can get wetter as you add your second coat. If you do get a run, stop painting, let it dry for about 2 hours, and gently dry sand the run out with 400 grit and respray that area.  I was lucky and didn't have any runs.
 
  Another angle of the body with the first coat.  This had the second pass of nitro on it, and I was just about done with the first coat.

 

 
  And yet...  another angle of the body at this stage.  Shiny, glossy, but nowhere NEAR as shiny as it will be when done.  The paint at this point will be slightly "textured", not completely totally flat, which is OK.

 

 
  Last shot in the first coat series, and now I am officially done with the first coat.  I used roughly 1/2 of the can of black gloss.  I will use the rest on the second coat.  I never spray cans down to the very very end.  Too dangerous, because spitting is very common when you are running low on the juice. 

 

 

 

Coat 2

  After you are satisfied with your first coat, and are positive you don't have any low spots and didn't miss any areas, it will need to sit for a minimum of 4 hours before you shoot your second and final coat.  Nitrocellulose actually cures and will settle for a period of YEARS.  Unlike primer which does it's thing in several days.  OK.  Here is a shot of the second coat.  I actually waited overnight before spraying the second coat.  Rushing stuff get's you into trouble.  =)

 

 
  Just another angle as I am putting the second coat on.  It is very reflective and shiny at this point, but not totally FLAT.  You won't get it totally flat until the final final buffing and polishing stages, and when you hit it with the super fine grit.

 

 

 
  Another shot.  I think I'd move much more quickly if I wasn't documenting this biatch on the web, and snapping 5-6 photos everytime I do a different phase.  =) 

 

 
  Another view of the guitar after the 2nd coat.  You don't want any runs or wet spots.  Practice spraying the can on a junk board to get the hang of it.  Patience, and do it right.

 

 
  Obligatory redundant mulit angle shot.  You get the idea of what it should look like.

 

 
  Did I really take 6 photos of this?  There ya go.  Second coat of black nitro is done, and I will let this dry for 24 hours before dry sanding with 320 grit to kiss the finish a bit, remove any flying lint, any high or low spots, and get it ready for clear coating.

 

 

 

 

Stage 6 - Clear Coat

 

 
Intro
Strip
Sand
Seal
Prime
Nitro
Clear Coat
Veneer
Stain
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