Finally!  We're actually putting stuff back together now.

Here's the new release lever (with new pivot pin behind) and throwout bearing.  Note the input shaft is perfectly clean.  It will receive a very thin coat of lithium grease.

Note that BMW says you should not apply grease to the bearing surface of the guide bushing.  This is unusual - perhaps the surface has a  special coating to earn that $100 price tag?

This is a very cool tool.  Typically I'd have to use the front crankshaft bolt and a giant socket wrench to lock up the crankshaft, but for $45 you can get this clever piece.  It slides into one of the mounting holes in the rear of the block, and meshes with the starter ring gear, positively locking the flywheel in place while installing the flywheel and pressure plate.

Pretty neat.

Here's the new flywheel installed.  The area circled in red shows the two "half moons" machined into the surface of the flywheel, which define the mounting hole just above that is to be located on the dowel in the flywheel (see disassembly pics and TIS procedure).

The arrow points to the newly-installed pilot bearing.  You can purchase a special tool for this, or find a large socket which is just smaller in diameter than the bearing, and use a drift hammer to install it.  Make sure the socket diameter is large enough so that it presses against the outer bearing race - NOT the blue bearing seal.

Pressure plate installed.  This is worth mentioning as it is not discussed in the TIS.  The portion outlined in red is a retainer plate that basically holds the pressure plate in compression (it comes this way from the factory).  This allows for very easy installation - you don't have to fight the spring pressure while torqueing the p-plate bolts.

Once the plate is installed, simply insert a 14mm male hex socket in the center hole and turn counterclockwise to remove the retainer.  Careful - it pops out with some force, as you can imagine.

Then you simply re-insert the bolt which comes with the clutch alignment tool (it's in there - you can see it thru the central hole) and pop the tool back out of the crankshaft.

Don't forget to remove the flywheel lock tool at this point.

Here's how the clutch looks once the retainer plate and alignment tool have been removed.  Almost ready to reinstall the transmission...

One more pic of the new clutch, showing attachment bolts and flywheel lock tool.  Note that the bolts have female hex heads - eg., allen wrench style.  Make sure you have the appropriate tool to install these bolts (I purchased new bolts out of habit).

Now it's time to get in and grunt.  Slide the transmission back under the car (I used hi-density foam - thick cardboard works well too), then move the floor jack alongside the transmission.  Most of the tranny's weight is concentrated in the rear third of the case; I positioned the case on the floor jack pad right over the drain plug.

Now, while holding the tranny on the jack, use your legs to run the jack handle to pump the jack up, raising the tranny.  Take your time and roll the trans forward on the jack while raising it - you want it precisely positioned as shown in this pic, and directly on centerline of the car.

The red outline shows the driver's side edge of the bellhousing, and how it needs to align between the two header collectors on this side while raising it up to the motor.

Same sort of pic, but this is of the passenger side.  It is absolutely imperative to position the trans correctly, or you'll never get it up into position on the motor.

Once you clear the exhaust headers, keep raising the trans and rolling it forward (small amounts in each dimension) until the input shaft engages in the clutch disk - it's easier if the trans is in gear, so you can wiggle the output shaft to aid in engaging the input shaft.

Once the input shaft is engaged, wiggle the trans gently and with force applied to the back end - if you have it lined up correctly in both dimensions (height and side-to-side) it will slide all the way forward and mate up to the rear face of the block.

Once the transmission is in, connect and retorque the 12 bellhousing-to-engine block bolts.  You will find two smaller-diameter bolts - these are the upper two bolts.  There are then 10 bolts remaining of same diameter, but two of them are 5mm longer.  These two bolts go into the holes which mirror the starter mounts - in other words, on the driver's side - and they each get a washer and nut on the front side of the block flange, a tricky proposition, but do-able once you find the correct way to position your arm.

This pic shows the shifter bearing pin and retainer clip.  Clean it up with WD-40 or similar, then apply a thin coat of lithium grease.

Here's the crankshaft position sensor and accompanying shim.  Pay close attention to the TIS procedure on setting the depth of this sensor: they want it quite close to the position teeth on the flywheel.  You'll need a depth gauge to do it correctly: do NOT assume the new flywheel is the same diameter as the old one!  The tolerance is 0.2mm, so you need to get it right...

At this point, the rest is just turning wrenches and following the procedures in reverse order.  The driveshaft bolts are a pain, as is aligning the exhaust system on the header flanges (or maybe I was just getting tired by then...).

All in all, a very straightforward job.  If you have any questions you think I might be able to answer, do not hesitate to ask!

GOOD LUCK, and HAVE FUN!!!