Mojave National Preserve, 2004
Palomar Amateur Radio Club - Hiking and other outdoor activities

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Mojave Desert National Preserve

Car Camp and Hikes

November 12 ~ November 14, 2004

Photography by  Bernie

Text Adapted from Stan's Trip Report

The four campers for this adventure were:  Stan Rohr (W9FQN), Bernie (N6FN), Jackie and Scott Vance

Trip Organizer: Scott - Outdoors Club Leader

Created by Congress in 1994, the Mojave National Preserve protects 1.6 million acres of the East Mojave Desert.  About three times the size of Anza Borrego State Park, this preserve is huge.  Roughly resembling a triangle, it is sandwiched between I-15 on the North, I-40 to the South and Highway 95 to the East.

The Preserve, at the intersection of the Mojave, Great Basin and Sonoran deserts, has a wide variety of landscape: several ranges of mountains with forests of juniper and pinyon pine; coral pink sand dunes; dry lake beds; desert scrub and creosote brush; all interspersed with Indian petroglyphs and old mining operations.  A very interesting area to visit.

This trip was posted by Scott Vance, a volunteer trip leader with the Outdoor's Club, http://www.outdoorsclub.org/  Stan who is a member of the ODC advised me of the trip, and after looking into the many trips being sponsored by them, I joined the ODC as well and signed up for the trip.

Friday -Following  Scott's excellent directions Stan and I  arrived at Hole in The Wall ranger station by about 3pm on Friday,  where we armed ourselves with maps and good advice from the park officials.
     We continued north along the asphalt road which after a bit turned to a well graded dirt road. Again, following Scott's directions we ended up at Mid Hills campground, elevation 5,600 feet, where we selected a camping area that would hold 6 to 8 additional  ODC car campers that were expected to come.  
     Quickly unloading our camping things, we set up our tents, and unloaded a pickup load of wood for our evening campfire "get together's".
     After dark, Scott and his copilot, Jackie,  arrived and got their things settled for the night. We ate supper together and had a good time talking late into the evening around our roaring campfire.  Alas, for whatever reason, the other folks who had signed up for the trip never showed!  Their loss, for this was to be a great weekend.

Trail overlook at Hole-in-the-Wall

Saturday, the Slot Ring Hike -We awoke to find a bit of frost on the cars and picnic table.  After breakfast we drove to the Hole in The Wall Campground and discovered why the area is called "hole in the wall" - In addition to being a passage through the mountain, the mountain sides are covered with holes-large and small.    

After returning to the ranger station for additional information we took off to hike the "Rings Trail" slot canyon, where we climbed down two vertical slot cliffs equipped  iron ring hand holds.

 

      Descending the "Rings Trail"

Scott descending the second cliff / waterfall in the slot canyon.

 

After working our way through the slot canyon and descending two water falls "on the rings" we reached the canyon exit.

Scott descending the second set of rings into Banshee Canyon

 Exiting the "Rings Trail' slot canyon

      Petroglyph -Leaving the slot canyon behind, we hiked accross the open desert as we made our way around the mountain to reach some Indian Petroglyphs that the ranger had graciously  tipped us off about.

Another slot canyon near Hole-in-the-Wall

   Butte near Hole-in-the-Wall

Hiking around the mountain in a CCW direction from the slot canyon's exit, we made a big circle to the Indian Petroglyphs along the south side of the mountain.  It took a little bit of searching, but we were finally rewarded with numerous Indian Petroglyphs.

Indian Petroglyphs

Petroglyph Detail

Crystal Springs Hike - Arriving at the Mitchell Cavern's visitor center, we found out that the 1:30 pm tour was already sold out and that the next available tour was at 3:00 pm.  Since it was just about noon, we decided to eat lunch and make a short hike to nearby Crystal Springs before going on the cavern tour.

The Crystal Spring Trail leaves from directly behind the visitor center, climbing steeply up the side of Fountain Peak.  The spring, which provides year around water for the visitor center and adjacent campground, is reached in about a mile.  Elevation is rapidly gained, providing wonderful views to the desert floor and valleys beyond.

Mitchell Caverns Tour - Right on schedule, the ranger leading the tour gathered us up near the visitor center and recounted the intriguing  story of how Mitchell Cavern's were initially found and later turned into a tourist attraction.

Following a paved walkway carved into the side of the mountain, we quickly arrived at the cave's entrance.  Entering a locked gate we were soon swallowed by the cave's darkness.  Chamber by chamber the ranger pointed out the geological and whimsical features of the cave.  The cavern comes fully equipped with stalactites, stalagmites, helictites, draperies and curious formations called shields. 

 

       Mitchell Caverns Visitor Center

Formation in Mitchell Cavern

 

Cave Formations

Sunday - the Kelso Train Depot -  After a great dinner around our cozy campfire and a good nights sleep, on Sunday we packed up camp and took off to visit the Kelso Train Depot.  In the 1920's the depot served as a train station, restaurant and employee housing.  In this isolated desert location, one wonders what such a beautiful train station is doing out in the middle of "no where" and who made use of it.  The Park Service's restoration of the historic building is scheduled for completion in 2005, when it will be opened to the public.  The depot's new roll will be as the park's information and visitor center.

 

Restored Kelso Train Depot

Kelso Sand Dunes - Located just a few miles from the Kelso Depot, the Kelso Dunes beckon to be climbed.   After a moderately long hike from the parking area, the sandy trail soon disappears into a series of smaller sand dunes.  Hiking further we climbed to a saddle between two of the larger dunes.  

At the saddle it was decided to continue on and attack the left highest peak .  With increasing elevation, the gusting wind became progressively stronger,  sweeping a blizzard of sand particles along just a few inches above the surface.

 

 

 

Kelso Dunes Trail Stan scouting a route to the saddle

By  

 

 

 

View from part way up Dunes 

The views of the sand dunes, and the mountains beyond, get better with increasing elevation.

In the photo to the right, Stan and Jackie are proceeding up the ridge line towards the summit.  The upslope wind going over the dune was extremely strong.  Note the ribbons of sand sweeping across the dune and the "breaking sand wave" pouring over the summit.

 

Climbing higher and Providence Mountains

Strong winds and blowing sand

 

Stan, Jackie and Scott approaching the summit.

Sand blowing over the cornice

View to the South West

After taking some photos and the terrific views, Stan and Bernie started making their descent.  Earlier, Stan's hat had blown away and was now resting several hundred feet below the cornice.  Peering over the edge, we decided that if we started down, it would be a one-way-trip to the bottom--no turning back.

While Stan was considering the advisablity of going after his hat, I jumped over the side, striding down the mountain -- digging in my heels in to stop from tumbling. 

 

 

It's much steeper than it looks in the picture below, where Stan is sliding down the face of the dune along the route I had just taken. 

In short order the wayward hat was retrieved, but the blowing sand under the cornice was ferocious.  It was blasting its way into every nook and cranny of our clothes, innundating our hair and ears.

Stan decided that he would slide down on his koong-deng-ee not wanting to do a "head over heels" descent.  On the way down we were amazed to hear this pulsating roaring sound and immediately started looking for a train or a jet somewhere, but the sound was really nothing more than the famous booming sound made by the sand at Kelso Dunes as it cascades down upon itself.

 

Stan on the summit

    Sliding beneath the cornice

Back at the cars, we shook out the sand as best we could, emptying pounds of the stuff from our pockets and shoes.   Standing on top of the rose colored and windblown summit and sliding down its face was probably the highlight of the trip!

For radio amateurs, the Needles 146.760-, Ludlow 147.885-, Newberry Springs 146.700- and Lake Havasu 146.610- repeaters provide coverage in various areas of the preserve.  

If you wish to visit the park, log onto www.nps.gov/moja for more information.

 

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