November
12 ~ November 14, 2004
Photography by
Bernie
Text Adapted from Stan's
Trip Report
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The four campers
for this adventure
were: Stan Rohr (W9FQN), Bernie (N6FN), Jackie and Scott Vance
Trip Organizer: Scott - Outdoors Club
Leader
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Created
by Congress in 1994, the Mojave National Preserve protects 1.6 million
acres of the East Mojave Desert. About
three times the size of Anza Borrego State Park, this preserve is huge.
Roughly
resembling a triangle, it is sandwiched between I-15 on the North, I-40 to
the South and Highway 95 to the East.
The
Preserve, at the intersection of the Mojave, Great Basin and Sonoran
deserts, has a wide variety of landscape: several ranges of mountains with
forests of juniper and pinyon pine; coral pink sand dunes; dry lake beds;
desert scrub and creosote brush; all interspersed with Indian petroglyphs
and old mining operations. A very interesting area to visit.
This
trip was posted by Scott Vance, a volunteer trip leader with the Outdoor's
Club, http://www.outdoorsclub.org/
Stan who is a member of the ODC advised me of the trip, and after looking
into the many trips being sponsored by them, I joined the ODC as well and
signed up for the trip.
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Friday
-Following
Scott's excellent directions Stan and I arrived at Hole in The Wall
ranger station by about 3pm on Friday, where we armed ourselves with
maps and good advice from the park officials.
We continued north along the asphalt road which after a
bit turned to a well graded dirt road. Again, following Scott's directions we ended up at Mid Hills campground,
elevation 5,600 feet, where we selected a
camping area that would hold 6 to 8 additional ODC car campers that
were expected to come.
Quickly unloading our camping things, we set up
our tents, and unloaded a pickup load of wood for our evening campfire "get
together's".
After dark, Scott and his copilot, Jackie,
arrived and got their things settled for the night. We ate supper together
and
had a good time talking late into the evening around our roaring campfire.
Alas, for whatever
reason, the other folks who had signed up for the trip never showed!
Their loss, for this was to be a great weekend.
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Trail
overlook at Hole-in-the-Wall |
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Saturday,
the Slot Ring
Hike -We awoke to find a bit of frost on the
cars and picnic table. After breakfast we drove to the Hole
in The Wall Campground and discovered why the area is called "hole in
the wall" - In addition to being a passage through the mountain, the
mountain sides are covered with holes-large and small.
After
returning to the ranger station for additional
information we took off to hike the "Rings Trail" slot
canyon, where we climbed down two vertical slot cliffs equipped iron ring hand
holds.
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Descending the "Rings Trail" |
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Scott
descending the second cliff / waterfall in the slot canyon.
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After
working our way through the slot canyon and descending two water falls
"on the rings" we reached the canyon exit.

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Scott
descending the second set of rings into Banshee Canyon |
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Exiting
the "Rings Trail' slot canyon |

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Petroglyph -Leaving the slot canyon behind,
we hiked accross the open desert as we made our way around the mountain to
reach some Indian Petroglyphs that the ranger had graciously tipped
us off about.

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Another
slot canyon near Hole-in-the-Wall |
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Butte
near Hole-in-the-Wall |
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Hiking
around the mountain in a CCW direction from the slot canyon's exit, we made
a big circle to the Indian Petroglyphs along the south side of the mountain.
It took a little bit of searching, but we were finally rewarded with numerous
Indian Petroglyphs.

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Indian Petroglyphs |
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Petroglyph
Detail |
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Crystal
Springs Hike - Arriving
at the Mitchell Cavern's visitor center, we found out that the 1:30 pm tour
was already sold out and that the next available tour was at 3:00 pm.
Since it was just about noon, we decided to eat lunch and make a short
hike to nearby Crystal Springs before going on the cavern tour.
The
Crystal Spring Trail leaves from directly behind the visitor center, climbing steeply up the side of
Fountain Peak. The spring, which
provides year around water for the visitor center and adjacent campground, is
reached in about a mile. Elevation is rapidly gained, providing
wonderful views to the desert floor and valleys beyond.

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Mitchell
Caverns
Tour - Right
on schedule, the ranger leading the tour gathered us up near the visitor
center and recounted the intriguing story of how Mitchell Cavern's
were initially found and later turned into a tourist attraction. Following
a paved walkway carved into the side of the mountain, we quickly arrived
at the cave's entrance. Entering a locked gate we were soon swallowed
by the cave's darkness. Chamber by chamber the ranger pointed out
the geological and whimsical features of the cave. The cavern comes
fully equipped with stalactites, stalagmites, helictites, draperies and
curious formations called shields.  |
Mitchell Caverns Visitor Center |
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Formation in
Mitchell Cavern |
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Cave
Formations |
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Sunday
- the Kelso Train Depot - After a
great dinner around our cozy campfire and a good nights sleep, on Sunday
we packed up camp and took off to visit the Kelso Train Depot. In
the 1920's the depot served as a train station, restaurant and employee
housing. In this isolated desert location, one wonders what such a
beautiful train station is doing out in the middle of "no where"
and who made use of it. The Park Service's restoration of the
historic building is scheduled for completion in 2005, when it will be
opened to the public. The depot's new roll will be as the park's
information and visitor center.

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| Restored
Kelso Train Depot |
Kelso
Sand Dunes - Located just a few miles from the Kelso Depot, the Kelso
Dunes beckon to be climbed. After a moderately long hike from
the parking area, the sandy trail soon disappears into a series of smaller
sand dunes. Hiking further we climbed to a saddle between two of the
larger dunes.
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At
the saddle it was decided to continue on and attack the left highest peak
. With increasing elevation, the gusting wind became progressively
stronger, sweeping a blizzard of sand particles along just a few
inches above the surface.

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| Kelso
Dunes Trail |
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Stan
scouting a route to the saddle |

By
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| View
from part way up |
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Dunes |
The
views of the sand dunes, and the mountains beyond, get better with
increasing elevation.
In
the photo to the right, Stan and Jackie are proceeding up the ridge line
towards the summit. The upslope wind going over the dune was
extremely strong. Note the ribbons of sand sweeping across the dune
and the "breaking sand wave" pouring over the summit.

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Climbing
higher and Providence Mountains |
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Strong
winds and blowing sand |
Stan,
Jackie and Scott approaching the summit.

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Sand
blowing over the cornice |
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View to
the South West |
After
taking some photos and the terrific views, Stan and Bernie started making
their descent. Earlier, Stan's hat had blown away and was now
resting several hundred feet below the cornice. Peering over the
edge, we decided that if we started down, it would be a one-way-trip to
the bottom--no turning back.
While
Stan was considering the advisablity of going after his hat, I jumped over
the side, striding down the mountain -- digging in my heels in to stop
from tumbling.

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It's
much steeper than it looks in the picture below, where Stan is sliding
down the face of the dune along the route I had just taken.
In
short order the wayward hat was retrieved, but the blowing sand under the
cornice was ferocious. It was blasting its way into every nook and
cranny of our clothes, innundating our hair and ears.
Stan
decided that he would slide down on his koong-deng-ee not wanting to
do a "head over heels" descent. On the way down we were
amazed to hear this pulsating roaring sound and immediately started
looking for a train or a jet somewhere, but the sound was really nothing
more than the famous booming sound made by the sand at Kelso Dunes as it
cascades down upon itself.

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Stan on
the summit |
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Sliding
beneath the cornice |
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Back
at the cars, we shook out the sand as best we could, emptying pounds of
the stuff from our pockets and shoes. Standing on top of the
rose colored and windblown summit and sliding down its face was probably
the highlight of the trip! |
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For
radio amateurs, the Needles 146.760-, Ludlow 147.885-, Newberry Springs
146.700- and Lake Havasu 146.610- repeaters provide coverage in various
areas of the preserve.
If
you wish to visit the park, log onto www.nps.gov/moja
for more information.
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