Biking the Blue Ridge Parkway (going south)

August 4-14, 2004

I did it!  From August 4 – 14 I biked 617 miles in 10 days.  This included the entire 469 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway and two more days to bike from Cherokee, NC (the southern end of the BRP) to Gatlinburg, TN and from Gatlinburg to Knoxville, TN.  I was able to save my one “rest day” until the end of the trip for a day off in Gatlinburg.  I camped along the way in national park campgrounds and cooked most of my meals using a small backpacking stove to boil water. 

            This was the adventure of a lifetime for me.  I trained 9 months for this trip, but still wasn’t sure that I could do it.  Conquering a 20-mile uphill stretch carrying 45 lb of gear on a bicycle is no easy feat!  My average day included 6000 ft of uphills while cycling 60-65 miles.  I was supposed to bike with a friend, but he was unable to go and I was determined to try it alone.  I am so glad that I did!

            I saw so many impressive sights and met so many nice people on the trip.  I used the book Bicycling the Blue Ridge Parkway by Skinner as a guide and tried to visit some of the fun and interesting places along the way that were described in the book.  For example, I went to the top of Grandfather Mountain to walk on the mile-high suspension bridge, I visited an apple orchard, I ate in the wonderful restaurant at the Mt. Pisgah Inn with its incredible views of the mountains, I visited the Church of the Frescos with its remarkable life size frescos available for public viewing, I stopped at the Northwest trading post known for its tasty baked goods, I climbed the tower at Clingman’s Dome (the highest point east of the Mississippi at 6650 ft), and much more.

            I am now totally hooked on touring by bicycle.  It is such an incredible way to see our beautiful country.  I can hardly wait for my next trip!
Click below for my daily schedule for the trip and see the pictures and captions below.

Daily Schedule (starting and stopping points, campgrounds, miles per day, # feet climbed per day, etc.)

Richland Balsam Overlook
Richland Balsam Overlook (Day 8, Milepost 431) is the highest point on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  I met a guy from Texas here that had just started in Cherokee (MP 469) and was biking the entire parkway going north (I was going south).
Grandview Overlook
Grandview Overlook.  There are so many beautiful overlooks (over 200) on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  I stopped at most of them (especially when going uphill since I needed a break from the climbing)!
BRP - stretch of road
The Blue Ridge Parkway is a wonderful place to bicycle (once you get in shape to make the killer climbs).  There isn’t much traffic and no commercial vehicles are allowed.  The views are stunning.

Bear Right Ahead
Grandfather Mountain
.  I love this billboard!  It announced the turnoff for Grandfather Mountain, which towers over the surrounding area at 1 mile (5280 ft) in elevation.  The mountain is privately owned and it costs $12.00 per person to go to the top.  It features a mile-high pedestrian suspension bridge, restaurant, visitor center, and animal exhibits featuring several black bears.  No cyclists or hikers are allowed on the 2-mile access road (which is extremely steep and has no shoulders) so I had to catch a ride to the top.

Suspension Bridge
Suspension Bridge
.  The mile-high suspension bridge on Grandfather Mountain offers an incredible 360 degree view of the surrounding area.  Winds on Grandfather Mountain have been measured at over 100 mph.  It was a bit cold and windy on the day that I visited and I wished that I hadn't left my jacket on my bike at the base of the mountain.

Spiral Curve
Spiral Curves
.  I like these signs!  The downhills on the Blue Ridge Parkway are thrilling on a bicycle.  I often reached 35-40 mph on the downhills and had to sometimes be careful on winding stretches.  I hit one stretch that had 6 of these “spiral curve” signs and I had to brake a lot for the “Max Speed 20 mph” signs.  My longest downhill was a 20-mile coast from Mt. Mitchell to Asheville, NC, that lasted for about 45 minutes.  What a ride!  (Of course, it took me 4 ½ hours to climb Mt. Mitchell to earn the 45 minute downhill ride.)

Linn Cove Viaduct
Linn Cove Viaduct
.  The Linn Cove Viaduct is an engineering marvel.  It was added to the parkway in 1987 and goes around Grandfather Mountain.  It rests on several piers and is in partial suspension, allowing the 153 sections of the bridge to be added one at a time (extending out into space) until they reached the next pier.  The sections were held together with cables and epoxy.  A great visitor center nearby has models showing the bridge under construction.

Craggy Gardens
Craggy Gardens
.  I was relieved to make it to Craggy Gardens at the top of Mt. Mitchell in NC.  It took me 4 ½ hours to make the difficult 25 mile climb.  There is a tunnel just above my head in the picture that I had just ridden through.  I was surprised by how scary the tunnels are!  They have no lighting and you can’t see anything when you first enter them!  I had rear flashing lights and finally rigged my flashlight to shine at the line on the side of the road so that I could see where I was going in the tunnels.  I'll bring a front light next time!

Cherokee NC
Cherokee, NC
.  I completed the Blue Ridge Parkway after 8 days and stopped in Cherokee, NC.  I still had two more days to get to Gatlinburg, TN, and Knoxville, TN.  It was sad to see the parkway end.  I stayed in the River Valley Campground in NC (about 2.5 miles down Big Cove Road that intersects 441 in Cherokee across from Hardees).  The campground is along a beautiful, rushing river and it was nice to have a hot shower for a change (no showers in Nat. Park campgounds on the BRP).

Newfound Gap
Newfound Gap
.  Route 441 crosses the Smokey Mountains going from Cherokee, NC, to Gatlinburg, TN.  Newfound Gap is near the peak at the border between NC and TN.

Clingman's Dome
Clingman’s Dome
.  A 7-mile spur from Newfound Gap (see above) leads to Clingman’s Dome, the highest point east of the Mississippi at about 6650 ft.  It was raining and foggy on the day that I made the difficult climb.  I left Clingman’s Dome and coasted 21 miles down to Gatlinburg (elevation: 1650 ft).   The ride was somewhat treacherous in the rain as it has 5-8% grades with numerous switchbacks.  At one point the mountain is so steep that the road curves back under itself to handle the grade, forming the famous “loop” in the road.

Mabry Mill
Mabry Mill (MP 177) is said to be one of the most photographed spots in the nation and you can see why.  There is a restaurant here and a great historic area where you can visit the mill and many other historic buildings and displays.  This is a great place to stop for breakfast or lunch.

Author:  Paul Gordy
Email:  blueridgecyclist@cox.net