Header Install
This is the photo doc of the TPIS Long tube Header install on my 86' vette. The idea was to replace this:
With This:
I chose to go with TPIS headers and front Y-pipe. I also got a Ramdom Technologies Catalytic convertor, and some Jegs "cool socks" spark plug wire socks.
The things I liked about the TPIS header and Front Y-pipe were:
Nice ceramic coating
quality of workmanship
All emmisions tubes in the right place and the right size
All bolt holes on the header were in the right location
The bends in the front Y-pipe for the oil pan were correct
The O2 sensor hole was in the right place and was the right size and thread.
The things I didn't like about the Headers and front Y-pipe:
The Y-pipe did not slip fit to the headers properly (had to be expanded)
The catalytic convertor did not slip fit the Y-pipe properly (had to be expanded)
The rear of the front Y-pipe was pointing about 10-15 degrees down from where it should have been (had to get it bent upward)
While the EGR crimp points on the cat and passenger header are factory correct, a bolt on solution would have been easier to deal with.
The ceramic coating makes the dimpling on the primaries insufficient, thus I could not use the factory bolts in 3 places.
The ceramic coating also was built up in 2 of the bolt holes, and I had to use a dremel tool to grind it out.
TPIS claims that you just "Pull the dip stick out" to install the passenger side header.
I found that I could not remove the dipstick without damaging it. I had a metal shop cut a slot in the header flange instead (see above pic)
I could not reinstall the factory starter (TPIS claims you can), and thus I installed a ministarter
There is no clearance to use a socket to reinstall the front frame braces (small gripe, pic below)
Here you see the original equipment:
With This:
I chose to go with TPIS headers and front Y-pipe. I also got a Ramdom Technologies Catalytic convertor, and some Jegs "cool socks" spark plug wire socks.
The things I liked about the TPIS header and Front Y-pipe were:
Nice ceramic coating
quality of workmanship
All emmisions tubes in the right place and the right size
All bolt holes on the header were in the right location
The bends in the front Y-pipe for the oil pan were correct
The O2 sensor hole was in the right place and was the right size and thread.
The things I didn't like about the Headers and front Y-pipe:
The Y-pipe did not slip fit to the headers properly (had to be expanded)
The catalytic convertor did not slip fit the Y-pipe properly (had to be expanded)
The rear of the front Y-pipe was pointing about 10-15 degrees down from where it should have been (had to get it bent upward)
While the EGR crimp points on the cat and passenger header are factory correct, a bolt on solution would have been easier to deal with.
The ceramic coating makes the dimpling on the primaries insufficient, thus I could not use the factory bolts in 3 places.
The ceramic coating also was built up in 2 of the bolt holes, and I had to use a dremel tool to grind it out.
TPIS claims that you just "Pull the dip stick out" to install the passenger side header.
I found that I could not remove the dipstick without damaging it. I had a metal shop cut a slot in the header flange instead (see above pic)
I could not reinstall the factory starter (TPIS claims you can), and thus I installed a ministarter
There is no clearance to use a socket to reinstall the front frame braces (small gripe, pic below)
passenger side
driver's side
I unscrewed the air tubes on both sides, and pulled the plug wires.
There are 6 bolts holding each manifold to the cylinder head.
But before I could remove those...
I had to unbolt the cat from the rear Y-pipe (the rear Y-pipe and mufflers stayed on the car)
There are only 2 bolts. I also had to cut through the crimp ring holding the air injection tube to the cat.
Holding the cat and front Y-pipe to the car are:
These 2 bolts and :
The 3 nuts holding each font Y-pipe tube to it's manifold.
"P.B. Blaster " Penetrating oil was my friend during the removal., and it made a believer out of me!
With all these items removed and the main EGR crimp rig cut to let the EGR pipe swing away from the passenger manifold, I was able to...
...use my car jack to slowly lower the entire assembly and drag it outside.
As you can see the car was on jack stands the entire time (I don't own a lift...yet!).
While I trust my jackstands, I setup the rhino ramps and bricks to give me some level of "fail safe".
While Idon't think the bricks would hold the car or even be stable, I think they would buy me enough time to get the heck out from under the car!
Thus they were used.
With the front Y-pipe and cat off the car, I was able to remove the starter, passenger frame brace with ease.
I then removed the 6 bolts holding each manifold on and gently lowered them to the floor as well (no jack needed).
Here is the driver's side without the manifold:
The next job was to remove the plug wire retaining clips and their mounts. After that I needed to remove the old gasket's and clean the gasket surfaces.
Then I installed the headers (after grinding a couple of bolt holes and finding some diffierent bolts for the tight fit area described above).
A lot of folks seem to have trouble tightening the number 8 headers bolts (the rear passenger side bolts). I found that if you get a 14mm 1/4" socket it will fit:
I did have to start these bolts by hand and then use a 15mm box end wrench to turn them until I could get the socket on them.
I use the 15mm wrench because it speeds up the process, and because it is meerly the anti-seeze that makes them beyond hand tight, it dosen't harm the bolt.
Once the headers are installed I found that the original starter would not fit between the header and the oil pan.
The car is my dailey driver, and I didn't like the idea that I would have to remove the header to change the starter.
Thus we have:
The ministarter!!!!!
As you can see, it is tight in there even with a ministarter.
This thing required shimming, and while I got it to work, I could tell it wasn't right.
I had to get a local vette shop to do the final shimming (he said he had to shim 1 side to angle it correctly, I would not have figured that out!)
You can also see that the flywheel cover is removed. I had to do that to get the starter installed. In went back on when I was done.
(compared to removing the header, I can live with that).
The other pain regarding the starter is that the factory starter uses 2 posts on which to install the wires.
The ministarter uses a post for the big wires, but uses a spade terminal for the little wire.
I was not going to cut the factory wiring, so I added a piece of wire to make the connection:
Here you can see the factory wire and my "bolt on" solution.
I wanted something that was removable.
I wrapped this in electrical tape and then put heat shrink tubing over top of that.
So far, so good!
The funky blue things are the "cool socks" for the plug wires.
My final step was to reinstall the front passenger side frame brace. It isn't hard, but takes a long time because you can't get a socket in there.
If I only had another 1/4" of clearance!
After all this was done, I had to get the car flatbedded to a muffler shop (open headers are LOUD!!!!!) for the final fit.
The headers were leaking when they first started the car, and I told them to give it to me and I would fix it.
To my surprise, after I loosened all the header bolts and retightened them to spec, the leaks dissapeared!
I retorqued them for the first few "heat/cool" sessions and they have preformed well so far.
I have ben told that headers are notorious for leaks and that I will be back in there!
At least I know what to do!