CONDITION and ABBREVIATIONS

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All cards are strictly graded by Beckett standards. When in doubt, refer to the condition guide in your Beckett "Monthlies" or Annuals. That's my benchmark for grading. I don't list cards as "Looks pretty good, no creases" (one of my favorite common "ebay grades"). You get a card in the EXACT stated condition. Where scans exist, you get the exact card you see, not one "something like it." If some scans appear off color or with soft focus, rest assured, it's the scan and not the card. Collecting is a lot of fun, but I do take grading very seriously. You deserve to receive what you are paying for. You may always request a high resolution scan of any card priced $5 or higher.

M = Mint: No printing flaws, 4 sharp corners and sides, no worse than 60/40 centering. As close to perfection as possible. Pre-1974 cards in this condition carry a premium, as they are rarely found.

NM/M = Near Mint-Mint: Card with one very minor flaw, such as a single corner with light wear, light print spots, color or focus imperfections. Still 60/40 or better centering, sharp corners and sides. Pre-1974 cards in this condition carry a premium, as they are scarce.

NM = Near Mint: Card with one minor flaw, such as one fuzzy corner or two corners with light wear, slightly rough edges, 70/30 or better centering, minor print spots, minor color or focus imperfections.

Ex/M = Excellent-Mint: Card with 2 or 3 fuzzy corners or less, 80/20 or better centering. No more than two of the following: slightly rough edges, minor print spots, color or focus imperfections, very minor border discoloration. A Mint bullseye centered front with an o/c back or a slight diamond cut card automatically drops to this grade. Cards in Ex/M condition and better are the highlights of any collection.

Ex = Excellent: Card with 4 or fewer fuzzy corners, 80/20 or better centering, rough edges, minor print spots, color or focus imperfections, minor border discoloration. More than 3 of these elements combined will drop the card from Ex to VG. Ex+ is the highest grade I will assign to cards that are Ex/M - M with front wax marks or back game scratches. So, the card obverse may look NM, but front waxing is something I automatically downgrade to this grade.

VG = Very Good: Handled but not abused, may have slightly rounded corners, slight layering or notching on edges, 90/10 or better centering, hairline creases, border discoloration, print spots, color and focus imperfections, waxed. May have noted fading or erasure marks, but no tears, tape or ink marks. These are still very nice looking cards.

G = Good: Well-worn card, may have rounded and layered corners, no border on one side, notching, scuffing, minor creases, erasure marks. My 1950s G cards are Good, not trashed! Ink marks, tears, stains, warping may be present, but will be noted.

Fr = Fair: Slightly abused card, may have rounded and layered corners, miscut, notching, scuffing, creases, stains, tears, holes, written on. Basically, a place holder card.

P = Poor: Badly creased, stained, taped and mangled. Good for showing the kids what a '50s or '60s card looks like, or for making noise in the spokes of your bike.

MIP = Mint in Package: The item is still sealed in the original packaging.
MOC = Mint on Card: The card, pin, toy, etc. is still sealed in the original blister pack.

"Average condition" for a lot means that the majority of the cards in the lot are in the stated condition or range - some cards may be better and some cards may be worse.

Unopened or Sealed cards, boxes and sets are sold as "implied mint." There is no way of knowing what condition a card will be in until you break the seal or open the pack. Unless each card was hand selected, there is no such thing as a truly "Mint Set." 

I was recently asked if a set listed as "factory sealed" "definitely" contained a key RC. The answer I gave was honest, but didn't satisfy the person asking the question. I said: I can't "definitely" say yes, because the set is factory sealed. It's never been opened. However, the odds of it not containing the card are about as high as it containing nothing but 132 copies of the card. That's how I honestly feel. However, if after you pay for a factory sealed set, you want me to open it and confirm a key RC exists, I will be happy to do so. If the card is not in the set, I'll return your payment immediately.

Common Abbreviations used:
AS = All-Star Card
ASG = All-Star Game Insert
CL = Checklist
COA = Certificate of Authenticity (see below)
COR = Corrected Error Card
DK = Diamond King Card
DP = Double Print
DT = Dream Team Card
ERR = Error Card
FFC = First Fleer Card
FPSC = First Pro Set Card
FRAN = Franchise Player Card
FTC = First Topps Card
HN = High Number
HL = Highlight Card
HOF = Hall of Fame Inductee
IA = In Action Card
L-R or T-B = Left to Right or Top to Bottom Centering
MG = Manager
MVP = Most Valuable Player Card
O/C = Off-Centered
RB = Record Breaker
RC = Rookie Card
RY = Rookie Year Card
SP = Short Print / Single Print
TBC = Turn Back the Clock Card
TC = Team Checklist Card
TL = Team Leader Card
UER = Uncorrected Error Card
VAR = Variation Card

All autographed sports memorabilia comes with a certificate of authenticity (COA) from the well-established companies or event promoters that sold them. These are not COAs that I print!

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