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Jay's
MAME
Project - Rebuilding a Shoot-Out
Cabinet |
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After weeks of me talking about my
MAME Arcade my buddy at work decided that he wanted to build one too,
but he is much luckier than I am.
I came into work one day and Jay was waiting
for me. He was very
excited! On his way to work he had spotted an arcade cabinet
setting next to the road. It was big trash day in his
neighborhood!. I went with him on lunch to see if it was still
there, and it was. It had some water damage on the bottom, but all
in all it was in pretty good shape. Most everything was there,
PCB, display, marquee and coin-door. You know, all the stuff I had to
buy for mine. The "Shoot Out" arcade is currently
living in my garage. (If you're wondering about the Pac-man
graphic, I drew that just to see how a 17" monitor would look like
in the arcade.)
The
cabinet looked as if it was some sort of flying game in a past life. The
graphics around the display looks like an airplane cockpit. If
anyone has any idea what this thing was originally please drop me a note.
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Do
you have an old arcade cabinet just laying around? Then you might
want to follow this guide:
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31
(and counting) Easy Steps to Build a MAME Arcade |
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1. First step was to remove all the old junk from the inside. We did
rescue it from the landfill so I didn't feel too bad about ripping out
the insides. This also made it quite a bit lighter and easier to
move around.
2. 1/2" was removed from the bottom using a skill saw this took
care of most of the rot. A couple of 2x4 braces were added to stiffen it
up.
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3. The back panel below the door was also replaced with 3/4 MDF and a
network plug was added.
4. 1" appliance wheels were installed.
5. New Plexiglas was purchased for the marquee, display and control
panel.
6. New joysticks and buttons were ordered from Ebay.
7. Mounting brackets were installed to hold the 17" monitor.
8. Monitor and coin door were painted black.
9. Began sanding outside.
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10. The original control panel
was made of thick steel and was in pretty bad shape. It had a lot
of extra holes, and some of the holes were cut pretty rough, but I
thought I could make it work. The hardest part was removing the plastic
covering from the control panel. It was held on there with some
sort of space-age polymer that had the consistency of boogers. It
just wouldn't come off. I ended up using a small grinder with a
big wire wheel. Even with that it took almost 2 hours to get that
crap off.
11. Now I needed to fill the existing holes. I used a piece of
1/4" plywood as a backer and used putty to fill the front.
After some sanding and a couple coats of paint it looked really good.
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12. I had a template in Visio
of the joystick and button sizes that I printed and taped to the control
panel. I then taped the Plexiglas on top of that. That way I could
cut them both at the same time.
13. A few hours and 2 broken bits later I gave up on the metal
control panel. The metal was too thick for the tools at my
disposal.
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14. New plan... replace the
existing metal (piece of crap) control panel with a wooden one.
After a few quick measurements it seemed possible. All I would
need would be a piece of MDF 8"x23"x3/4" with a 45 degree
bevel on one side where it would meet the glass for the display.
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15. I cut the piece, mounted the
original hinge, removed the stop blocks on the arcade and mounted it all
up. It fit great. |
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15. I attached my mangled
templates I had used on the (piece of crap) metal control panel and
started drilling.
16. Everything was going too smooth now, so something had to go wrong
and it did.
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17. The arcade buttons require
a 1 1/16" hole. A hole saw that size is kinda hard to
find. 1 1/8" is easier to find, but the buttons fit a little
loose. I thought I lucked out and on my last trip to Harbor
Freight, I found a hole saw kit that had a 1 1/16" saw for only
$2.99. What a deal...right?
18. Wrong... after the first hole the saw was dull. I
ended spending the next 2 hours burning 15 more holes into the control
panel. When I say burning, I mean BURNING! I haven't seen
that much smoke in my garage since I broke my t-molding bit and had to
burn my way through my "Time Warp" arcade. The next day
and 2 showers later I can still smell that crap. I think it some
how worked it's way into my sinus cavities. I should have used
some kind of lube or water to cool the blade as it cut, but I was afraid
of damaging the MDF. MDF doesn't like water and paint might have a
hard time sticking to the lube.
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19. After finally getting the
holes drilled I sanded and painted the control panel. |
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20. I then mounted the
buttons and joysticks. This time I mounted the joysticks from the
bottom. This way the top is smooth, no screw heads sticking
through. I'm not sure how well this will hold up, but if it doesn't
then it's an easy fix, just drill the holes all the way through and
install carriage bolts like everyone else uses.
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21. I'll leave the wiring to Jay |
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22. The coin mechs weren't in
great shape and Jay didn't have any plans on using actual coins in them
anyway. |
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23. I mounted small buttons from
Radio Shack on the back side of the coin returns. |
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24. Now when the coin return is
pressed it activates the button and registers a coin drop.
25. I painted the back of the coindoor and installed a couple
of 12v lights donated from a 81' Malibu dash assembly. They will
need to be wired to the PC power supply, I'll let Jay take care of that.
26. Jay came over and sanded some more on the cabinet.
It's getting there.
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27. Painted it black. Spots
are on camera not arcade. |
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28. Installed the
T-molding. We ordered 20 feet, we used 19 feet. |
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29. Mounted I-Pac to Control
Panel. |
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30. Connected ground wires
and soldiered.
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31. Connected button and
joystick wired to I-Pac.
Just in case there was any doubt, Jay is a big Oklahoma Sooners
fan. |
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