I decided to make my life a little easier and create a template out of 1/8 fiber board.  The template has the basic shape and cut-outs for the 1x1 support boards.  With the template I can layout a Mini-Pacman in 5 minutes instead of a couple of hours of measuring.

I also decided to build 2 at a time.  I figured it would take me about 6 hours each for just the basic wood construction.  It only took 8 hours to build both of them.  Not bad, saved me 4 hours.

The hardest part of the construction is gluing and screwing all the pieces together.  To make it a little easier I predrilled all the 1x1 pieces before they were mounted to the sides.

I placed the template on top of the 2 sheets of 49"x24" 5/8" MDF and traced my outline and the position of the 1x1 supports.

I then clamped the 2 pieces together and cut the straight areas with my Skill saw. I finished the round cuts with my jig saw.

While both pieces are clamped together I sanded the edges to ensure that they were equal.

Next I used my router and my brand new 1/16" slot cutting bit to create the channel in the edge for my t-molding.  (Objective 2 complete.)

I then cut all the 1x1 supports and predrilled the holes to mount them.

Using the cutout on the template I glued and screwed all the 1x1 supports to side (A).

I then removed the template and set side (A) to the side to dry.

For the second side (B). I just flipped my template over. The second side should be a mirror image of the first side.  I have one side marked (A) and the other side marked (B) so I don't accidentally make the same side twice.

After both sides are dry it's time to cut and insert the middle pieces.  This is the hardest part.  It's like trying to balance a deck of cards.

This time I split the back door into 3 different pieces.  Basically cutting 5" from the top and bottom that will be screwed and glued permanently to the arcade.  I also cut 1/8" from the side of the door section.  That way the 5" top and bottom will stiffen up the arcade and with 1/8" removed from the door it will open more freely. (Objective 4 complete.)

To mount the Marquee I cut a 1/8" slot 1/4" from the front edge of panel (1).  When mounting the marquee it slides into that slot and the bottom edge is held in place with a piece of 1/4" aluminum angle screwed into panel (4) from the bottom.

To mount the bezel and minimize the screw that are seen I cut a 1/4" groove 1/4" from the front of panel (4).  That way there is room to mount the 1/4" angle for the marquee and I can slide the 1/8" plexi and 1/8" fiber board into the slot securing the top of the Bezel with out the need for a couple of screws.  (Objective 3 complete.)

All parts were screwed from the inside so no filler needed.  Just some light sanding on the MDF and a wipe down with a damp cloth.  I borrowed one of those electric paint sprayers.  Did I say how much I hate painting.  The brush nearly killed me last time. 

My first coat was a white primer.  It went on smooth, I thinned it a little too much but it was ok.  I let that dry then lightly sanded and used a damp cloth to remove the dust.

Next I taped off all the areas that would be yellow and painted the black areas on both cabinets.  This time I didn't thin the paint at all.  This looked much better, also don't let the container get to low on paint. When it does it starts belching big globs of paint everywhere.  It gets ugly really fast.  Beware of the Globs!!!

Once the black dried I prepared the twins for the yellow paint.  This time the painting went even better, no big globs.

Once the Twins were dry its time to remove the paper and tape.  That is the funnest part.

The Twins only need 10ft of t-molding each.  I chose red, Why? Because I like it better than orange.  It went in easily with the gentle help from my rubber mallet.

1 Jax Namco 5n1 Ms.Pacman controller.

1 phillips head screwdriver

Soldering iron and soldier

Wire cutters/strippers

Aloe Vera cream (for when you burn yourself with the iron)

6 female terminal connectors.

Some 24/26 gage wire.  I use some extra network cabling.

small shrink wrap or but connectors.

6v 200-300 mA power supply.

Hammer

awl/punch

vice or extra set of strong hands.

First you have to decide where you want your buttons.  You'll need 3 and you can have as many as 5.  I'm only using 3.  Menu, button A and button B.  You could also have buttons for power and reset.

I moved the Menu/Pause button from the far right of the control panel to the left between pacman and the ghost.  This will help hold down the plexi on that side. (Objective 3 complete.)

Now time to cut holes. I cut 3 holes for the buttons using my normal 1 1/8" hole saw and used a 5/8" drill for the hole for the OJ.  the shaft and dust cover are a lot smaller. 

Because of the shape of the housing for the OJ I also had to route out a portion of the back of the CP in the shape of the OJ housing.  It basically looked like a square with 1 corner cut off with a hole in the middle.

I then mounted buttons through the plexi glass and mounted the housing on bottom making sure I had the orientation correct.

Then I mounted the circuit board.  I placed it next to the housing and used some plastic tubing as spacers to keep up off of the board.

Now it's time to wire.  The circuit board is nicely labeled.  A for button A, B for button B, and P for menu.  They all use a common ground which on mine was orange.

 First I wired the common grounds.  To do this I first got rid of the original buttons.  I desoldiered them at the button.

I then used the extra wire and connected the grounds from button a, b and menu together and used soldiered that wire to the orange ground that was connected to the old buttons.  I used a but connector to cover the soldier, shrink wrap would have been better, but I couldn't find mine.

Next you need to connect the individual wires from the soldier points on the board with those on the buttons.

Now you need power.  You could get a female plug for the power supply that you are using, I didn't.  I just cut the plug off of the end of the power supply and soldiered it to the circuit board.  Remember blue is ground and red and positive.  Use a voltmeter to determine which is + and - on your power supply.

Install your joystick. (Objective 1 complete.)

Now test it.  plug it in, turn it on.  I just left the on switch dangeling underneath.  if the light comes on you should be ok.  If not check your connections.  You may have installed your power supply backwards.  If that happens then it is fried and you'll need to put it back together and return it to walmart and start over.

I mounted the CP in the arcade from the bottom.  1 screw on each side should hold it.

I used a 13" TV that has RCA inputs.  I just plug the controller into it.

The bezel actually needs to be mounted before the CP is mounted.

I used 1/8" plexi glass with a 1/8" Fiberboard backing.  This helps firm up the plexi glass and gives you a place to sandwich your graphics between.

The plexi/fiber sandwich is slid into the groove in the bottom of the marquee and is secured with 2 screws in the bottom.  These will be hidden when the CP is installed.