Nigerians need considerably less space than larger goats. A nice basic setup for a couple of goats is a large chain-link dog run. They can be kept in pens designed for larger livestock as long as the fence mesh is small enough that they cannot squeeze out. Most Nigerians can be held in by 3-foot fences, but a few can clear them and need 4-foot fences.
In Southern California, most goats are kept on "dry lots" (otherwise known as bare dirt!), as few people have access to a real pasture. To help keep the goats comfortable and keep parasites and odors down, some simple steps can be taken. Sprinkle the bare ground with livestock-grade lime or, even better, Sweet PDZ (an odor-neutralizing and absorbent product found at most feed stores.) A layer of bedding over the dirt, such as straw or old hay, helps keep the goats comfortable. This can be raked out when it accumulates and used as great compost!
Goats hate rain and need a dry shelter. In Southern CA., this can be very simple. Wooden or plastic doghouses will do for a couple of goats. Whatever you use, it should be dry and not allow rain to get in. A thick layer of bedding, such as straw or shavings, is desirable in the shelter.
Goats are ruminants. This means that friendly bacteria in their digestive systems- their rumens- break down compounds in plant material that the goat otherwise could not digest. These bacteria produce all of the B vitamins and vitamin C, thus goats do not require these in their diet.
The primary diet for most goats in Southern CA. should be good-quality grass hay (I use Bermuda.) Milking and growing does may do better on alfalfa. Alfalfa is very rich in calcium and protein.
The hay should be sweet, soft and green, free from mold and as free from dust as possible. Hay should be fed from a rack or other feeding device, never on the ground where it will become contaminated. It should be fed free-choice.
A "California-sized" bale of hay (about 80-100 lbs., I hear bales in other states are smaller) will last the average Dwarf about a month to a month and a half (alfalfa is heavier and lasts longer than grass).
Wethers, bucks outside of the breeding season and dry (non-pregnant) does do not need any grain. Does in late pregnancy and milking does can be fed a grain ration formulated for goats. Many people like Purina Goat Chow for this purpose.
Your goats will also really enjoy some time to browse, if you are able to let them do so. You can also supply them with fresh branches from non-poisonous trees, non-poisonous weeds such as dandelions, and garden leftovers. Do not be surprised if your goats are picky eaters! Mine run from a carrot like it is a monster about to devour them... As browsers, goats prefer trees and bushes to grass.
The following is my goat diet. It isn't the only possible diet, by any means!
Does
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Free-choice bermudagrass hay |
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Morning feeding- approximately 1/2 lb. of Trojan horse pellets, a 12% protein alfalfa and grain pellet |
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Evening feeding (for pregnant does)- 1/2-2 cups (depending on pregnancy stage) of a mixture of 2 parts goat grain (Purina Goat Chow or Nutrena Top Goat) 2 parts Purina Strategy GX horse supplement pellets, and one part black oil sunflower seed |
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Milking does get extra grain mixture |
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Free-choice Purina 12-12 horse minerals |
Bucks and Wethers
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Free-choice bermudagrass hay |
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Morning and evening- 1 cup of a mixture of 3 parts Trojan horse pellets and 1 part Strategy GX |
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Bucks are supplemented with grain as needed during breeding season |
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Minerals are given once a week (the bucks would eat an entire bucketful if I gave it to them!) |
Goats require a balanced mineral supplement. The type will depend on the hay that they are eating. All animals require a balanced ratio of calcium and phosphorus, two very important minerals, to fully utilize both minerals. Goats should have a ratio of about 1.5-2 parts calcium for each part of phosphorus. Grass hays tend to be somewhat low in calcium and phosphorus, but to have them in the proper balance or be somewhat low in calcium, while alfalfa has about five times as much calcium as phosphorus! Mineral imbalances can lead to urinary tract stones, especially in wethers.
For goats on grass hay, there are many mineral supplements that can be used. Many companies make a supplement especially for goats- Sweetlix, Golden Blend and Caprine Supply are some examples. Most feed stores do not carry a supplement just for goats. Purina 12-12 horse minerals are used by many goat owners. I also like the Select II horse minerals. Southern California is severely copper-deficient, so the relatively high level of copper in these supplements are acceptable here.
If you do use horse minerals, you may not want to feed them free-choice. Some, such as the Select minerals, have a lot of flavorings in them to make them more palatable to fussy horses. This makes them like candy to a goat! I think my bucks would eat the entire bucket of Select II if I let them.
Follow label directions on the mineral as to whether to offer salt as well as minerals. Most mineral mixes are complete, but some, like Purina 12-12, do ask that salt be offered as well. Loose salt works better than salt blocks for goats.
Never use sheep mineral supplements for goats. The amount of copper needed in a goat's diet will kill a sheep, so sheep mixes do not have enough copper for goats.
It is also a good idea to offer free-choice baking soda to your goats. Excess acidity in the rumen can cause beneficial bacteria to die, resulting in a very sick goat. Baking soda can help prevent this. Do not offer baking soda to wethers, especially those getting ammonium chloride in their diet to prevent urinary stones.
Goat grooming requirements are fairly simple. The most important aspect of grooming is hoof trimming, which should be done every 1-2 months. Please see the links to hoof trimming information on the Links page.
Many breeders shave their goats in the spring. This helps keep the goats cool and free of parasites in the summer.
If your goats develop a lot of fluffy undercoat (which s where cashmere comes from!) you can comb it out when they shed it in the spring.
Goats hate water, and luckily seldom need bathing! Unless you are going to a show, your goats shouldn't need baths.
Goats require annual vaccinations of CD-T to prevent enterotoxemia (overeating disease) and tetanus. These injections are simple to give if you wish to learn to administer your own vaccines.
Goats also can pick up many kinds of worms and other internal parasites. Consult a vet in your area to set up an appropriate worming schedule for your goats. Right now, I worm four times a year, alternating an ivermectin and a fenbendazole wormer. I just got a book on veterinary parasitology and I have access to microscopes, so I plan on starting to do my own fecals.
There are several signs to watch for that indicate a sick goat, besides the usual signs of illness as in any animal- listlessness, looking "down" or "not right":
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Temperature over 104 degrees |
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Grinding teeth |
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Not chewing cud |
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Refusing food |
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Appearing bloated |
For some information on common goat diseases, please see the Links page.
Nigerian does can be bred when they have achieved most of their growth, often around 8 months. Bucks can breed by three months of age.
Nigerians, unlike many other goat breeds, breed year-round, although they are most likely to mate and conceive from fall-early spring. Does come into heat about every three weeks, with the actual fertile period lasting about 24-36 hours. Heat signs in does may be very subtle if you don't have a buck around! They include restlessness, noisiness, tail-wagging (especially if stroked along the back) and possibly a clear discharge.
Does are pregnant for about 145-147 days. Nigerians often have multiple births- up to six healthy kids have been recorded in one kidding!
For further information on breeding, see the Links page.