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"NOVICE CLASS" DOG TRAINING
William's Blog Journal
WELCOME FRIENDS TO THE NEXT PHASE OF MY TRAINING PROGRAM, "PET MANNERS MATTERS"
In the following chapter(s), emphasis will be placed on the rules and regulations as well as the instructions I give to train your dog in the best possible way. Assuming you and your dog have successfully completed the "Novice Class" as instructed in the previous exercises, and in a position to continue the advanced stage in the "Agility" or "Companion" category, there are things you may want to consider. And that is your intent to continue for the sake of entering your dog in the obedience trials sanctioned by the American Kennel Club, or settle with the status quo of the training program simply for the love of it. If your dog is purebred and has the proper papers and registered with A.K.C., I strongly urge you to continue with these 2 final chapters, 3 and 4, which I will be applying the terms "DOG(S) for all referencies. Your instructor at the training club can provide you with the proper application to enter your dog in the A.K.C sanctioned trials. If you are not a member, you can check with a training club or the A.K.C. for the entry form. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE HERE: If you train your dog outside the benefit of a training club, I strongly recommend that you take him to a busy area (at times) such as a park, ball field, or any place where you can get him accustomed to other animals. In the trials, your dog will be required to be off leash, and one can well imagine what could occur without that proper training. However if your dog is a mixed breed, the training of the Novice Class is necessary and sufficient for home and family. Because there are so many rules and regulations involved in this endeavor, the "Agility Class" will begin chapter 3 with an outline on all the equipment and preparations you will need to participate. After the outline presentation I will go into the methods of training instructions that will be necessary to complete this required program.
There are many categories within the agility class training course, and I will name some brieftly, but you will have plenty of time to become acquainted with them as you work with the three important ones I'm presenting. The other exercises are: (The 'A' Frame Walk)= (The SEE-SAW,) =(THE POLE WEAVES,)= (OPEN AND CLOSED TUNNEL,)= TO NAME JUST A FEW.
CHAPTER - 3
"THE AGILITY CLASS"
The AgilityClass program is made up to represent an obstacle course.
Obstacle and Jump Positions.
Obstacles should generally stand alone. In Novice, the entrances should never be adjacent to one another, but entrances can be adjacent in Open and Excellent classes. It is recommended that there be a minimum of 15 feet to 18 feet between obstacles, with a minimum of 18 feet to a jump, 21 feet to a spread jump, and a maximum of 30 feet between any two obstacles in sequence.
THREE INITIAL "AGILITY CLASS" CATEGORIES:
(1) NOVICE CLASS
(2) COMPANION OR EXCELLENT CLASS
(3) OPEN CLASS
NOTICE:
In order to qualify for entry in any of the three categories above , the dog must have been entered, passed and qualified in a previous category, in a previous A.K.C. sanctioned obedience trial.
Items listed below can easily be made by yourself or purchased at a minimal cost at least.
MATERIAL, RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THE HIGH BAR JUMP:
(1)
The bars are supported by bar supports that are mounted to uprights. The supports must be positioned so that the tops of the bars can be set within 1/4 inch of the seven different jump heights (4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, and 26
inches). Jump heights must be designated on the uprights by number or color coded. An additional position for a bar placed 2 to 6 inches above the ground is also required. Unless a jump is specified as a One Bar Jump by
the judge, all jumps shall have at least two bars. In the Novice classes, the lower bar shall be placed at about half the height of the top bar. In all other classes lower bar placement shall be determined by the judge.
The bars must be either round with 11/4- to 13/4-inch diameters, or rectangular with 11/4- to 13/4-inch sides. Constructed from wood or plastic, they must be
4 to 5 feet long and striped for visibility. (Bars cut from PVC shall be Schedule 40 or Furniture Grade PVC.) The bottom of the bar sits on top of the bar supports such that the bar is easily displaced. If bar supports
are spaced every 2 inches there must be adequate
space for a bar to displace. If rectangular bars are used, the top of the support must be flat and no wider than the bar it is supporting. If cylindrical bars are used, the supports may be no wider than the bar, andthey should have a lip that is no more than 1/8-inch higher than the support, although lips up to 1/4-inch are allowed. Bolts may not be used as bar supports. Bars “held” in place by Velcro™, magnets, bolts, etc.are not allowed. The inside of the uprights must be at least 32 inches tall, and the upright must be 1 to 36 inches wide. (An inside height of 42 inches and a minimum width of 31/2 inches are recommended for visibility. Widths of 24 inches are recommended to facilitate handler movement on the course.)
Performance: Dogs must jump over the top bar, without
displacing it, in the direction indicated by the judge.
(2)
THE PANEL JUMP RULES,REGLATIONS AND MATERIALS NEEDED:
The Panel Jump uses up to six cross-boards to give the illusion of a solid wall from the jump height to the ground. Specifications for the board
supports and uprights are the same as for the Bar Jump. The cross-boards are 4 to 5 feet long, 3 to 4 inches wide, and no thicker than 1 inch. The top board for all jump height classes shall be a maximum of 4 inches high. Panels are to be supported 11/4 to 13/4 inches below the top of the board so as to be easily displaceable. The support ends for the panels are recommended to be rounded like a jump bar fitting into a jump cup. This will help keep the panels on the uprights in windy conditions. Flat plank ends on flat supports
are discouraged.
(3)
THE BROAD JUMP MATERIALS, REGULATIONS AND RULES:
The Broad Jump is composed of either four 8-inch sections or five 6-inch sections, and four corner markers. The actual width of the 8-inch sections is 7 to 8 inches, and the width of the 6-inch sections is 5 to 7 inches. The sections are constructed from a top piece and two side pieces. The length of the
sections are between 4 and 5 feet long, and they may be of different lengths. To improve visibility, either the center of the sections or both ends must be marked with a color-contrasting band that is at least 3 inches wide. The sections are of varying height, and they shall be arranged in ascending order.
Each section of a broad jump is at least 1/2-inch higher than the previous one, and the height of the front edge of a section is at least 1/2-inch lower than
the back edge. No portion of any section may be lower than 31/2 inches or higher than 81/2 inches. The length of the jump is twice the jump height of the
division. Consequently, not all the sections are used in the lower height divisions. In those cases, the jump must be assembled with the lowest sections. The length of the jump (within 1 inch) and the number of sections to be used for the different divisions are as follows: The corner markers are at least 1-inch wide and 36 inches high, and they may be decorated to improve visibility. They are either attached to the sides of the first and last sections, or they are freestanding and placed as close as possible to those positions.
(Free standing is recommended.)
CHAPTER 4
Training Methods And Procedures
For The Agility Class:
Now is the time to review your activity up to here.
Let's assume that you have completed all the necessary requirements
and qualifications in the novice class as instructed in chapter 1 and 2.
Your dog is now ready to advance in his training into a whole new world of fun and pleasure. Also, assume you have obtained the necessary materials, assembled completely and ready for use, the obstacles for the agility class as instructed in chapter 3.
As you begin, review and repeat the commands as you physically
run through the entire program laid out in previous chapters 1 and 2.
Since your dog is already responding to the commands satisfactorily,
you need only spend a brief time period for all exercises.
Of course I am referring to: Heel, Sit-Stay, Down-Stay, Stand-Stay,
and Come. These exercises should be repeated before every other training session throughout the program, and lasting approximately10 minutes ...
with the leash.
NOTE:
For the remainig period of time in this beginning session, use about 20 minutes to repeat the above exercises=WITHOUT THE LEASH.
Repeat both procedures every day, every session until you are satisfied your dog will comply. It may be several days before you introduce the obstacles. The above lessons are practically mandatory.
The dogs in the obedience agility class, and in trials, are required to be off leash for these jumps. This is a main reason it is beneficial to train off-leash in a busy environment.
THE OBSTACLES:
When ready: Set-up the "broad-jump" obstacle first, using only 1 section to begin. This way, one is the easiest for you and the dog to manuever. He will learn more quickly, and also you'll find that the previous exercises he has learned enables him to respond more quickly as you progress.
With your dog on leash, "Heel" him around the area a few times, use the different commands as you go, then at some point approach the broad jump at a brisk pace, with the command, (his name) and "JUMP",
use the leash as a guide and guide him over the one "step", which should be no problem. Praise him with much enthusiasim, as you bring him into the "Heel" position.
Repeat the process on a continual basis until he responds while OFF LEASH . At that time, set up another "Step" and repeat the process as you did before until he complies successfully. Continue daily until you have all the sections in place and he understands exctaly what he needs to do and responds. JUST REMEMBER : After the jump, with the leash in hand, continue to "Heel him around to the side of the jump about 15 feet. It is here you stop and direct him from the "Sit" to the "Heel" position. This move is very important because later, when your dog is OFF LEASH, he will know where to go after he completes his jump. I am near the point where I will cover this in more detail.
But before you advance to the other obstacles, there is one training lesson that I think should be taught first. Others may do it differently,
but I prefer the following method, because I feel the other "Jump Obstacles" will come a lot easier in the long run.
Because all the agility class obstacles require your dog to be off-leash,
it is mandatory that you teach your dog to "GO!"
GO:
In this lesson, I recommend using a "Tid-Bit" reward for compliance.
It is here you can take advantage of the dog's natural instinct of smell.
Simply place a small piece of meat (anything he likes) about 30 feet in an open area. Walk back to the dog you left in the Sit stay position.
With leash in hand, with usual hand signal, the command is "GO",
briskly trot your dog to the "Meat". Command him to the sit-stay position facing back from where you came. Remove the lease, walk back to your orignal position, and command your dog to: (use his Name) then "COME" He has already learned this lesson so he should respond quickly and promptly to complete in the sit-heel position.
Repeat this exercise daily, alternating, both the "Tid-Bit" and the leash,until such a time your dog has the complete understanding. Eventually eliminate both the meat and the leash in this exercise.
Again Remember, before attempting the "next" exercise(s) always review (if only briefly) the previous lesson or exercise.
Once you have mastered the above instructions, you are now ready for the other obstacles. Please follow the same procedures for the bar jump and the panel jump, as were explained for the broad jump.
Continue with the GO exercise as you work with each obstacle, using the broad-jump first. Follow the instructions concerning the obstacles in chapter 3, about the placement of such obstacles. Although, at home or in an area of enough room, you can teach your dog one obstacle at a time and alone from the others, but because you will be participating in a trial somewhere, those obstacles are furnished and set up by a trial committee. You should be familiar with their relative positions to one another. Refer to chapter 3 for those regulations on obstacle placement. Once you have successfully taught your dog to complete the broad-jump exercise without the leash, and also the "GO" and "come" command successfully, you are now ready for the directional command. In this lesson and in a trial, you and the dog will be placed in a spot adjacent to the jumps. Upon the judge's order to send, you will give your dog the GO command, he should briskly go to the distant point you taught him, ( remember the meat?)
Once he approaches that distance, you firmly and loudly call the command:(his name) and "SIT!" After he turns back into a sitting position and upon the Judge's notice of direction, command the dog with voice and arm gesture with ( HIS NAME) then"JUMP!"
He should comply with the jumping of the proper obstacle and return to you for the completion of the total exercise. In practice at home once your dog has mastered the broad jump, move on to the "panel" or "bar jump", your choice, but use one at a time. Remember the repetition, and always review the previous exercises before attempting the other Obstacle.
As I mentioned earlier, the agility class has many exercises and obstacles, but your dog at this point should be able to master them very easily. You have plenty of time hereon to get acquainted with them all, even as you participate in the trials. Most of what I have covered in this program will qualify you for the Novice, companion or excellence class, but you will need one more important one to participate in the "Open Class competition, and that is:
"SCENT DISCRIMINATION"
Prepare your dog with review before this lesson.
THINGS YOU WILL NEED AND ARE REQUIRED:
5 - ITEMS OF WOOD
5- ITEMS OF METAL
5 - ITEMS OF LEATHER.
Cannot be painted, but each numbered 1-5
These items are used for the sole purpose of scent discrimination.
You can make them yourself or purchase at a minimal cost at the least.
The best shape for these items shoud be like a small "dumbell" with a 4-5" shaft with two 2" by 2" square ends. This will make it easier for your dog to retrieve. In a trial you will use the same ones as you do at home in your practice, this becomes part of the repetition factor.
Also in a trial, the judge will place the 15 "dumbells" about the same distance you taught your dog the GO command, in this case it's GO FIND! OR GO FETCH! whichever command you choose, use it everytime thereon.
The judge makes the decision at the time of the trial, which one of the 15 articles for you to touch.
Since you have no way of knowing which number of which material he will choose to designate, it is very important that all fifteen articles are free from any scent. There are simple solutions to prepare them clean for a practice exercise or a trial.
Protect them with a cover until presented at a trial.
When positioned ready for the scent trial, and upon indication from the judge, command your dog with voice and arm gesture to: (his name) GO FETCH! He should go to the placements and retrieve only the article you touched . In your practice of this project at home, teach him to take his time in sniffing all the objects(Which he'll probably do anyway) before he chooses the correct one. This is important because in a sanctioned trial an error could cause a complete loss of any ribbon. After the dog's choice he should return to the sit position at your front. He is to hold the article in his mouth until the judge gives the OK to remove it, after which time the command to "heel" is given and your dog should respond immedieatly.
Practice all the lessons accordingly as instructed in the foregoing chapters and you will forever be glad you did. I hope my program will be as helpful to you as it was for me and and it is my pleasure in providing it for you. I hope you have enjoyed your visits with successful results. The Training "Tips" and suggestive methods on how to teach your dog some tricks will concludes my program on "PET MANNERS MATTERS" and if you have any questions please feel free to contact me , I'll be happy to respond. My address is located at the bottom of this
page.
*TRICKS AND TREATS*
In this final presentation, your dog should easily learn and perform the many tricks or exercises of entertainment, because he is now seasoned by the previous training in obedience, and your job is also a lot easier because most of the "tricks"require that previous training. I guarantee you both will love the results if you stick with it. The formula for success in these endeavors is the same as in all of the 4 chapters above, repetition, praise, the proper way to scold or discourage bad behavior...ect. The dog will really like this course because now you can, and should offer a "Tib-Bit" reward along with the praise factor. Use the tib-bit all during the trick training. After he has mastered the tricks you taught him, you should slowly eliminate the tib- bit in favor of praise , although it is permissabe to use it occasionally to maintain interest. Taking advantage of what the dog does naturally is the best point in teaching you dog tricks. The following methods are what I used in sucessfully training my dogs. I am sure they will work for you. REMEMBER: IT IS BY FAR MORE IMPORTANT TO COMPLETE THE OBEDIENCE TRAINING CLASSES BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY "TRICK AND TREAT" EXERCISES ON:
HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO:
(1) =SPEAK!
A. When you dog barks, and he surely will, simply give the command "SPEAK!"
Do not scold if he doesn' bark. It won't be long before he responds. Treat him with a (small) piece of meat but a lot of praise! Practice every day at any time until he gets it "pat". As with all the "tricks" do not start another until you are completely satisfied that he has mastered the first. Always review the previous before practicing the next. Scolding is not necessary in trick training. Rely on repetition and praise.
(2) =SLEEP!
Command: DOWN! = Once he is down, roll him gently on his side,command him
"SLEEP!" then "STAY!" (ALWAYS USE HIS NAME FIRST) after a couple of minutes, command: "WAKE-UP" he should rise, (REWARD AND PRAISE)
(3)= ROLL OVER!
Once he is down, command him to "ROLL OVER!" as you gently roll him completely over. repeat process as suggested above.
(4)=CRAWL!
This one will take a little more time. Command: "Down!" at first, use the leash for control. give command: (His name first as always) "CRAWL!" At the same time jerk the leash slightly in sequence, If he should rise during this time command: "DOWN" continue to coax him forward with the leash and the crawl command. once he reaches you, praise and reward. Repeat as usual,
(5)=SHAKE HAND!
(EASY!) While he is in the sit position, simply take his paw in your hand and command "SHAKE HAND!" repeat process until he offers on command.
(6)=STAND UP!
(Kind of easy!) While in the "stand" position, simply take his front legs and lift him upward, repeating the command and helping retain his balance. repeat the process until he rises on his own. praise and reward.
(7)=BEG!
Another easy, for he knows he is to receive a reward. In the sit position, simply raise him up so he is balanced on his rear . His paws will remain slightly extended for balance. Repeat as suggested.
(8)=FETCH!
(Real Easy!) Because he'll love it! Toss a playful object about 30 or 40 feet. command "FETCH" He will naturally obey. The trick is to have him return it to you. But since you gave him this training in obedience, he should comply with vigor. It is not necessary for him to heel in this one, only praise!
(9)=YAWN!
(Also easy, just takes a couple of days! ) Watch your dog. They yawn as much as they bark. when doing so; command: "YAWN!" Every time you see him yawn, repete command until he responds. Praise and reward.
(10)=LIE ON YOUR BACK!
(This one won't take long either.) While he is in the down position, roll him , then hold him resting on his back, help him maintain his balance, with the command: "LIE ON YOUR BACK!" repeat as usual with the praise and reward.
(11)=WALK ON HIND LEGS!
(Kind of tough!) But be patient as usual. By now your dog is well seasoned and understands what it is you're trying to accomplish. It has become a lot of fun and pleasure and it's only a matter of a short time before completion.
in this Trick, your dog has already learned to stand on his hind legs. With some assistance from a member of the family holding him upright with the leash in place, command the dog to "WALK!" At the same time you coax him to you, your assistant is guiding him in the walk position until he reaches you. repeat process until he learns his balance, praise and reward.
(12)=FEEL ASHAMED! OR "PRAY" (CHOOSE ONE BUT NOT BOTH!)
(Not too bad!) While your dog is in the "BEG" position, command is "STAY!"
Simply take both his paws and place them over his eyes. hold them in place as you give the command: "PRAY" or ''FEEL ASHAMED!" (AGAIN, CHOOSE ONLY ONE NOT BOTH.) Repeat process until he responds on his own.
(13)=FIND!
(Very Easy!) Because it is only natural that a dog retrieves through a sense of smell, all you need to do is allow him to smell an object touched by you , place it in a hidden area. Command him to "FIND!" follow him at first, to praise him upon his "Find" but eventually you will want him to return the item back to you.
(14)=DON'T TOUCH! (THIS ONE AND THE NEXT COULD SAVE YOUR DOG FROM POISON. (And Shouldn't take long for compliance!) While your dog is in any of the trained positions, Place a piece of meat(TID-BIT) on the ground or (FLOOR) in front of him, if he attempts to reach for it, the command is "NO!" give him a few minutes, then give the command: "OK!" then praise . he has the reward!
(15)=DON'T EAT!
This trick takes some time and with an assistant,( For best results, the assistant shoud be someone whom the dog doesn't associate much.
You and your assistant offer the dog a tib-bit but only with the "RIGHT HAND", your command is "NO!" practice this several times, eventually you will take the meat from the assistant and offer it to the dog with your "left" hand. The dog will come to refuse any food delivered by a right hand. considering the odds that most people are right-handed as opposed to left, those odds suggest your dog will never be poisoned by a right handed person.
HOW TO BREAK YOU PET FROM:
(1)= DIGGING:
There are several methods; one is watch him when he is in the garden or lawn,
and scold him firmly with a "NO!" command (while he is digging), It is of no use to scold him afterwards upon discovery, since he has no real sense to reason your action; and that would only lead to confusion and make the situation worse. Another method is The "TOSS ITEM" this should be a very light chain about 12 inches long, that would only have a startling effect when you toss it on him from a short distant behind. approach him quietly from behind and within a few feet or so, toss the chain gently upon his back. He will not reason that you tossed it, and will not hurt or damge him physically in any way as long as you do it properly. And he will learn to associate that unpleasant occurence with his digging, which should eventually stop.
Another way is to loudly pop a rolled up newspaper against your hand or leg during the quietness of his digging. A dog hates that sound and will be startled into stopping the digging. I don't advocate striking the dog with the paper, however if the sound is not that effective at first, a few light applications to his rear, may suffice. He will not reason that you were the one that delivered the paper, if he did not see you do it. He will only associate the action with the digging. A "NO" command should accompamy these methods as well.
The other method, and one that is just as effected is applying "Hot Sauce" or Hot Pepper to the area he likes to dig. It won't be long before he loses the desire to dig. The contents will not harm him physically, but the unpleasant experience
will quickly curb the habit. I don't particularly recommend this one myself, but you may choose any of the above methods you wish. But be dedicated and repetitious.
(2)=BARKING EXCESSIVLY
You will never teach your dog not to bark, nor should you. It is only the times he does it excessively. For example: When a mail man is in the neighborhood,
your dog will bark in response to other barkings he hears from other dogs.
Also, He's aware and senses the time the outside activities occur, especially sounds from the wild life roaming around at night. DONOT use tid-bit rewards at this time. When the dog is barking, gently muzzle his nose and mouth with your hand and with the command "NO!" in a firm and displeased voice(NOT ANGER) continue daily until he responds. Please, never, never, apply a muzzle device for the purpose of this training procedure.
(3)=JUMPING ON PEOPLE
The best solution of course is to prevent it in the first place.
When guest come to your home, introduce the dog to them as you would any body. He should receive a response from the person entered . If you are the guest introduced to a dog in another home, always offer a gentle hand for the dog to investigate. This should always allow him enough satisfaction that he remains behaved. If your dog shoulf jump upon you, simply bend one knee sharply and deliver a firm push and the command "NO!" this unpleasant action will stop him from jumping in time.. if you repeat this method.
Once again, Thank you for your indulgence.
Please use the bar to the left and visit my other sites and poetry.
Good luck with your training and May God Bless you and your pet.
William E. Hardison(c)
billwilly1@cox.net
"ROCKY AND ME"
I bought this pup and brought him up and trained him for the trials;
to be the best to win the cup, for this, we traveled miles.
My memories of him never dim, he was more than just a dog;
all my time was spent with him...as mist does with the fog!
Day and night we practiced long, which was a total grind;
for at first, things all went wrong, I thought I'd lose my mind;
'cause "Rocky" did not understand, he only wished to play;
even on my reprimand, he still would want his way.
* * * * * *
Now this went on for many 'a day, and then, but not complete,
he would respond to what I'd say, but not without some treat.
But "Rocky" came to realize that treating wasn't all,
my voice of firm, but gentle wise, was all I need to call.
Our lasting friendship strongly grew into one solid bond;
for time came soon that we both knew.. a thing of which we're fond....
of what is just a simple game, an exercise at best;
to win the judge's apt acclaim; to pass his drilling test ;
to be the best dog in the shows and take the winner's cup
an acclamation that bestows upon me and my pup.
* * * * * *
I taught him all the moves and tricks a happy dog it makes;
for this contentment oft' restricks many of our mistakes.
While training in obedience this fact remained to be:
that doing this experience, same things for him and me;
for wise indeed was "Rocky", no smarter dog than he,
while I was teaching "Rocky","Rocky" was teaching me!
We both were learning self control, he, much better than I,
now from the past memories unfold, lasting until I die!
* * * * * *
I could place him on a beat: a sit, a stand or lie;
not even a bitch in cycle heat could steal a glancing eye!
He then responds to all commands, my voice or hand it be;
he'd clear the hightest jumping stands and then return
to me.
I would touch a special thing, of leather, metal or wood;
and "Rocky" knew which one to bring, for "Rocky" understood:
that in a pile of fifteen there, placed without inspection,
(for "Rocky" had not seen)
he just used his scent detection with nose so sharply keen.
Then proudly wagging his tail in glee, when snatching up the one,
the only one touched by me and back to me he'd come;
returning item back to me, he came in joyful prance,
his eyes as wide as could be, his pupils seem to dance!
* * * * * *
All this happened long ago and "Rocky" is now gone;
but all the thoughts I have in stow, I'll never be alone.
"Rocky" left us while in glory, he was just a young pup then;
on a roadway without gory, his precious life would end:
but not before he captured many, cups and titles that he won,
hearts of love and praise a-plenty, all agree a job well done.
So from the days of yesteryear come thoughts of "Rocky's" skill.
All our memories now revere...in our lifetime fill!
* * * * * *
William E. Hardison
PLEASE CLICK THE LINK BELOW
FOR CHAPTER 1 AND 2 OF "PET MANNERS MATTERS"
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