Here's how I created the rusty metal effects on this Porter locomotive.  Much has been written about weathering techniques, and I share nothing revolutionary here.  I have adapted my techniques from what I feel yields predictable, pleasing results to my eye - but there are probably as many variations in how to do this as there are modelers!

I like to do weathering in layers, starting with a base finish, applying a rust patina on the metal parts, and then using washes of acrylic or lacquer paints for highlights.  Then comes drybrushing, and special effects using an airbrush and / or chalks to blend the effects.  The objective is to create a convincing model that shows no signs of modeling technique.

A common error made (as I learned the hard way) is using a single effect in an attempt to simulate the very different appearance of rusty metal, weathered wood, sun-bleached paint, and the effects of wind, rain and hard use.  This would be similar to having a tool box with only a hammer in it...useful for some things, but not particularly helpful for others!  Effective weathering requires using a combination of techniques and a willingness to experiment beyond a few favorite methods.  It's best to practice first before working on your most prized models.

Let's start with the base finish, a rusty, crusty appearance:

When working in smaller scales, I always had to use an airbrush to get an acceptably fine grain finish on small models.  A luxury in O scale is the ability to use aerosol spray paint right from the can...in fact, we want to intentionally add a bit of texture to the weathered metal.  Realistic texture is subjective, but I like my models to reflect a slightly exaggerated texture of rusty metal, dry wood, etc.  This is only possible in the larger scales without looking crazy!  Here are the colors we will be using...black, gray, and different shades of rusty brown.

We'll use this beautiful casting of engine shop junk produced by Mesa Models.  Here is the raw casting that I have washed and is ready to be primed.



For this type of subject, I like to give a deep flat black overcoat, taking care to get all the crevices.  This requires multiple light coats of paint.  This adds depth to the finished model, as there are some spots that the lighter shades of paint will not cover, suggesting shadows.  Of course, for a black steam locomotive, this step isn't necessary.



Once the primer coat has dried at least 20 minutes, I used Rust-Oleum Multicolored Texture paint to give a dry overcoat.  This is a product I have not tried before, and it yields a multicolored finish.  As we blend additional colors, the rather crude effect is toned down...but it provides a nice base for the more subtle color applications to follow.

Note how the can is held farther away from the model than is normal for a smooth paint finish.  We are creating a dry, light application where the sprayed particles of paint actually begin to dry as they hit the model, leaving a slightly grainy appearance.



Now we go over the top and upper sides with light, dry applications of a lighter shade of brown.  Always start with the darker colors and work to lighter shades in a sequence.



Here's the finished base coat, ready for brush-painted highlights.



The crusty, rusty texture already gives the item character, which will be enhanced with our next step - picking out details and adding accents with different acrylic colors.



You can see how the black undercoat is already beginning to work its magic, adding depth to the shadows. 

We take the casting inside and let the paint cure for a day, then we pull out our acrylic paints and fine brushes.  Using different shades of rust, tan and gray, highlight the different objects to emphasize them.  This step really brings out the detail, so take your time and have fun!  I added a Porter locomotive smokestack at the left to add some extra interest.

The details can be highlighted further, as far as your patience and paintbrush hold out!  I have yet to paint the earth tan, but already the casting looks good on its own. 

Click here to see the next installment - weathering a rusty, crusty boxcar.
 

Weathering Tips:

Rusty, Crusty Metal

Here are a few weathering tips that have worked well for me.  I hope you find them helpful, at least as suggestions for giving your models character and texture.

This site is under construction, so watch your step!

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