Here's how I created the rusty metal effects on this Boulder Valley Models box car.  First, use the techniques shared in the previous clinic to give the car a rusty, crusty undercoat:

Give the undercoat at least a full day to dry.  Now we will use washes and drybrushing to add depth and interest to the rust effects.  Here's what we will use: acrylic paints (Americana brand Raw Sienna and Russet colors purchased at Michaels), brushes, a cup of water, some ACC adhesive, toothpicks, isopropyl alcohol, and auto windshield wiper fluid.  That's right!



The most basic step is to give the model an application of a thin, rust-colored wash.  I poured about a tablespoon of auto windshield washer fluid (the blue stuff) into a small cup (I use the cups that come with jam and jelly served at restaurants).  Then I dipped a large flat brush into light rust acrylic paint, and mix the brush with paint into the fluid in the cup.  It should make a very thin wash.  The washer fluid lowers the surface tension of the wash, allowing it to flow into corners and gives a better effect than plain water provides...but water works ok.



Then brush the car side with the wash...flood the entire side, keeping the car level.  It should look like this as it begins to dry:

Don't worry, it won't look like this when it dries!  When the paint starts to dry a bit, prop the upper end of the car with something to cause the wash to run down to the lower edges of the details on the car.  This approximates the streaking effect of rain and weather.



So far, so good.  You have a rusty car.  If you want a more dramatic appearance, stiple darker rust (the Russet acrylic paint) onto the car with a soft brush.  First, wet the brush in water and then apply some paint to the tip, and use a folded tissue to blend the paint a bit...be careful to do this on a surface that can be wiped clean later, or use a newspaper under the tissue.



Next, dab the brush against the car gently, rotating the brush and moving around on the car randomly.  You want to get an even, random effect.  Be careful not to overdo it, or the effect loses its visual impact.

Repeat the same process for the other side, car ends and roof, then let the paint dry thoroughly. Now let's make some crusty, flaky rust deposits along the side sills of the car, where the sides meet the frame.  This is an area where rust commonly forms on cars exposed to weather with little regular maintenance.

First, apply small globs of ACC cement at points along the lower edge of the car.  I used a medium thickness grade, but thick grade would be ok as well.  Be sure to follow the product warnings, this can be very bad stuff if you do not handle it carefully!

Spread the ACC globs using a toothpick, you want random applications.  Rust tends to like corners, joints and depressed surfaces.

Once the ACC has dried for a few minutes, take a fresh toothpick, dip it in the Russet acrylic paint, and daub it into the ACC.  You will get stringy chunks of adhesive impregnated with the paint, gently lift any large chunks off with the toothpick.  Tease up the surface of the paint / ACC goo to create the effect of flaking rusty spots.

This technique is a bit tricky, but with some practice you can get results like this:

You can stop here, or you can go for a more streaked effect using isopropyl alcohol washes.  I applied a thin wash of the raw sienna acrylic paint and straight isopropyl alcohol to the sides of the car, streaking the rust color to simulate years of exposure to acid rain:

You can also stiple a bit more Russet onto the car sides, as on the door in the above photo, to simulate patches of deeper rust.  Note how much more character the car has thanks to the thin layers of weathering.  That's the most important thing, don't overdo any particular technique or the overall effect will suffer.  See how the original crusty texture and blended colors add to the realism:

Here is the weathered car, awaiting final assembly:

A close-up shows the texture and color variations...the effect is more subtle when viewed by the eye:

The car still needs its roofwalk, couplers and other details, but it already has a load of visual interest.

Thanks for stopping by!  Stay tuned for the next installment...dry wood.
 

Weathering Tips:

A rusty, crusty boxcar

Here are a few weathering tips that have worked well for me.  I hope you find them helpful, at least as suggestions for giving your models character and texture.

This site is under construction, so watch your step!

 Questions?  Comments?  Complaints?  Get off your donkey and e-mail me at vgniner@cox.net

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