LS1 brake parts for conversion: L&R knuckle/spindle, L&R Caliper, L&R 1 foot long brake hose, all bolts, rotors

LS1 brake conversion sources: American Camaro & Firebird 405-495-9114 or GM Parts in Sacramento: 1 800 722 6015

Numbers
LS1 Driveshaft	12564003	Felpro exhaust gaskets	1470's for Oval (rectangular) ports 1406's for D ports
LT4 Starter	10455709	Stock exhaust gaskets	12552469
LT-4 Knock Module	16214681	Felpro head gaskets	1074 (0.039 thick)
GM O2 Sensor	25312184	Mr Gasket head gasket	5716 (0.026" thick)
		Impala	Unknown (0.029" thick)
1LE bellows	20-25147210 - 93-94 LT1 F-Body (without vented Opti-Spark) 20-25147187 - 95-97 LT1 F-Body (with vented Opti-Spark)
Jason Cromer	staylorservice@cybertron.com or 1-877-726-8295
Dal (Van Devere Olds)	800-362-9494 or email lockitup@bright.net
Sam Smith	1-800-395-1440

Tach signal (usually a GREEN wire on the tach): Use PCM RED connector, pin #13 -- it's a WHITE wire

You can use a 2 inch intake and a 1.56 inch exhaust, and retain the existing seats.

firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

ADJUSTING ROCKERS:

step 1 - You want to get the number 1 cylinder into firing position. With the arrow on the harmonic balancer in the 12 o clock postion, pistons #1 and #6 are at the top of their travels, but only one of them is in firing position. To determine which one, do the following with the valve covers off:

have someone rotate the crankshaft so that the harmonic balancer arrow moves from the 9 o clock position to the 12 o clock position. While the crank is being rotated take note of the movement of the exhaust rockers on the #1 and #6 cylinders. If the exhaust rocker on #6 is moving then #1 is in firing position, if the exhaust rocker on #1 is moving then #6 is in firing position. If the latter is the case, rotate the crank one full turn.

step 2 - loosen both rocker retaining nuts and then back the allen headed locks out a few turns. Turn each retaining nut until it is finger tight. Unless you have damaged stud threads, finger tight is zero lash. Turn the retaining nut whatever amount you've decided to go with minus 1/8 of a turn. With the retaining nut held in place with a wrench, tighten the allen headed locking screw until it's snug. Then, turn both the retaining nut and the locking screw the remaining 1/8 turn.

Note: I've heard of people going anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn of preload. Whichever amount you decide on, make sure you do all of them as close to the same as possible. I have been running with 5/8 of a turn worth of preload for some time now without trouble or noise.

step 3 - rotate the crank to the 3 o clock position.

step 4 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #8

step 5 - rotate the crank to the 6 o clock position.

step 6 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #4

step 7 - rotate the crank to the 9 o clock position.

step 8 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #3

step 9 - rotate the crank to the 12 o clock position.

step 10 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #6

step 11 - rotate the crank to the 3 o clock position.

step 12 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #5

step 13 - rotate the crank to the 6 o clock position.

step 14 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #7

step 15 - rotate the crank to the 9 o clock position.

step 16 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #2

Notes: If you are using the LT4 shouldered studs, no adjustment is possible. You just screw those down all the way and hope for the best. It's also not mandatory that all rocker adjustments start on cylinder #1, it just made it easier to explain. If you wanted to you could put the arrow in the 9 o clock position and start on #3 for example, you would just start the firing order in a different place.

Cylinder numbers and rocker designations

8e 7e

8i 7i

6i 5i

6e 5e

4e 3e

4i 3i

2i 1i

2e 1e

front of car

e=exhaust

i=intake

Hooker shorty header collector INSIDE diameter ~2"

Stock manifold header collector INSIDE diameter 2.25" - this is why Hooker shorty header collector must be opened up for best gain.

All line locks are the same... a solenoid that goes in the line for the front brakes. In the case of the 4th Gens, that means putting it in the line for the front brakes that runs from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. It has NO affect on ABS. When you engage the line lock, the "BRAKE" light will come on, because there is differential pressure in the front and rear brake circuits. The light will go out when you release the line lock.

The 4th Gens use a proprietary GM metric "mushroom" double flare, but it can be recreated by do-it-yourselfers. I think the pre-bent lines look nicer and you can get the lines without buying the whole kit at $200+ like Thunder Racing sells. Ask around.. I can't remember the name of the vendor who sells a very low cost solenoid and some very low cost pre-bent lines.

Deck height of 0.020 and piston reliefs of 6.7cc's

What will my compression & quench be with the following. Stock short block, LT1 heads milled .010, .039 gaskets.

Well, considering that factory engines usually have a compression height of 9.0" (piston .020 - .025" down the bore at TDC) and you're choice of a .039 compressed gasket thickness, that puts you at .039 + .02/.025 = .059 - .064 on the quench.

Flat milling yields 1 cc per every .006 milled. So you lowered your combustion chamber volume by approximately 1.7 cc's. A gain of approximately .25 points.

Most of you picked up on the fact that all of the vehicles "must" replace the OE cap with a Stant 10230; if you need a different cap, try the Stant 10230 or 11230.