Grand Tetons

A visit to the clinic

The first worlds out of Terri’s mouth in the morning were “I need to go to the clinic.” I wasn’t going to argue, but she managed to take a shower and we all managed to get to our final breakfast at the Lake Lodge Cafeteria. From there it was directly to the clinic near the Lake Yellowstone Hotel. Fortunately it was just after 9 AM and she was one of the first customers. 

Even so she was queued behind someone else for the X-Ray machine. She sent word for us to pack, so Rosie and I went back to the cabin and finished packing, loaded the car and checked out. It wasn’t long after we got back to the clinic that she was discharged. The diagnosis was what we expected: a bad sprain. She was placed in a knee immobilizer and given crutches. The bill was over $300, which didn’t seem too high to me, considering the circumstances. Hopefully insurance will reimburse some of it! 

The real problem was figuring how to get her in the car. She needed the whole back seat of our rental and had to sit sideways. We managed to cram the two large suitcases into the trunk, but there was still “Lucas”, containing our overnight stuff. Terri had to use that as a backrest. Rosie had to sit up front. The clinic gave us a bag of ice for swelling, and I had found Motrin at the general store for her to mainline. We headed out of the park. 

(Have I mentioned we have named our suitcases? “Bill” is the hard cases suitcase, i.e. Bill the Pony from “Lord of the Rings”. “Rover” was the soft suitcase, with its name marked in red nail polish so we could find it easily at the baggage claim area – it seemed an appropriate name for a suitcase! “Lucas” was the brand of the overnight bag.) 

Into the Tetons

We drove out the way we came in: through the South Entrance. This time I got to see what I missed coming in during darkness. What I discovered was a lake shadowing the road for a while. Ahead we could see the looming and magnificent Grand Teton mountain range. Our goal was to spend the afternoon going through those mountains before checking into our hotel in Jackson. With Terri in the back seat I wasn’t sure we could do much site seeing. 

Grand Teton Mountains

We exited Yellowstone. Terri played navigator from the back seat. It was a beautiful clear and sunny day, unlike when we had arrived. The road followed the eastern shore of Jackson Lake, which reflected the mountains in its beautiful cool and clear water. Jackson Lake drains into the Snake River (which eventually ends up in the Colorado River). Terri directed me to a visitor center at Colter Bay Village. She didn’t want to get out, but I went briefly into the visitor center and snapped a few pictures. We had heard there was a tram ride somewhere around here that would take us to the top of a mountain, and I needed directions. I got a map and was directed to a place called Teton Village, just outside the park and northwest of Jackson. 

Lake Jackson ... Grand Tetons in the background

At Jackson Lake Junction we turned into the Grand Teton National Park itself. We followed Teton Park Road that continued to shadow Jackson Lake as it curved toward the west. Looking up at the mountains we could see the glaciers and spots of snow near the tops of some of the taller peaks. Mount Teton, at 13,770 feet, was the largest of the peaks and soon appeared directly in front of us. Terri directed me again to get off on a one-way road that took us around the edge of Jenny Lake. It was a cool little road that wound through both woods and fields and seemed surrounded by nothing in particular but wildlife. It seemed to go nowhere and turned into a gravel road for a while. But eventually it emptied into an exit road that led to Teton Village, only a mile or two down the road.

Mount Rendezvous

Teton Village is about eight miles north and west of Jackson. It is one huge ski resort and features not just the longest tram ride in the continental United States, but various ski lifts that will take you all or part the way up the mountain. I dropped Terri and Rosie off in front of the ticket office and searched for a parking space. It took some time the find one. The lot was jammed, perhaps because new condos were going up nearby. It sure wasn’t because it was ski season! Moving was painful for Terri in her crutches but she really wanted to take the tram ride if possible. 

The tickets cost us $45, which seemed as steep as the ascent in the tram. But we were here and it was the last day of our vacation so we weren’t going to let money deter us. It was difficult for Terri to get up a story to get to the place where we would get on the tram. There was no elevator but a sloping walkway was available. We also found it advantageous to wait until she could be first in line because she would need to sit down. The trams ran every ten minutes or so and held about 45 people. 

Ascendint Mount Rendezvous on the tram, looking northeast

Looking up at Mount Rendezvous was a bit awing. The trams went at a 45-degree angle or more. Looking down over Teton Village we could see that this was a place that catered to a fairly well moneyed crowd. There were lots of little boutiques and snobby restaurants, along with the first Starbucks I had seen in Wyoming. Reputedly Vice President Cheney comes here with an entourage during the season. 

The tram ride was neat and a little scary. There were places where we were three hundred feet or more above the ground. Going through each connecting tower caused a little jolt. You felt a little lighter and wondered if you were going to plummet. We saw a number of observation towers. We learned these were places where during snow season charges would be fired from special guns into the snow to reduce the likelihood of avalanche. It was about a 12 minutes ride to get to the top but it seemed to go much faster. It was pushing ninety degrees down in the village but when we arrived at the top is was in the fifties and the wind was very brisk. We were all cold because, of course, we never bothered to think about bringing a sweater. 

Mount Rendezvous summit, looking north

The view from the top was spectacular. I didn’t regret the cost of the tickets. The Snake River Valley could be seen in amazing detail to our east. To our west, north and south were plenty of mountains in the Grand Teton range. We could see the many ski trails. They seemed so steep we couldn’t imagine how anyone other than expert skiers could ski on them. There were also a couple houses built into the mountain. I talked with the guide at the summit and she said she didn’t understand how people could live in them during the winter. The roads to get to them there were so steep and snow covered that it is unlikely even an SUV could scale them during the winter. Maybe they had personal helicopters! 

Snake River Valley, from Mt. Rendezvous, looking southeast

I asked the guide if Terri, due to her injury, could get priority seating on the way down. She was kind enough to oblige so we were first on the tram going down. The ride down was in some ways scarier than going up because you sometimes couldn’t see what was coming. There was one spot where you went right over the side of a cliff and could not see anything ahead. When we arrived back at the base we actually felt good to be in hot weather again. It was too cold up there on the top!

Jackson Hole, Take Two

It was already pushing five o’clock. It was time to check in to the Painted Buffalo Inn  in Jackson. It was right across the street from the Dollar Rent a Car, where we would catch our shuttle to the airport in the morning. We were traveling on unfamiliar roads but we found the hotel easily enough. Needless to say unloading was a bit of a hassle. We had booked the “Family Suite” at a pricey $149 for the night since it was all that was available. It was in the back of the hotel on the second floor, so Terri had to painfully make it up the stairs and into the room. And since it was quite a way from the parking spaces I had to haul our suitcases quite a way. I got my exercise that day! 

Our room was huge! There were two full bedrooms and a living room with a bed, plus a kitchenette and two bathrooms! The only downside was it sat above a restaurant and massage parlor. The noise from the restaurant could be annoying at times. Terri by this time was exhausted and needed to convalesce. This left us to puzzle through the logistics of how we would eat and consider how we would get to the airport in the morning with an injured party. 

We decided Terri could not go to a restaurant, so we’d have to eat in. I had a magazine of Jackson Hole restaurants and found an Italian place half a mile away. I placed a takeout order and brought the food back. The portions were enormous! Even with my large appetite there was no way I could finish my Chicken Parmesan. I only made it about half way. But it certainly filled us up because we were hungry. 

I also wanted to turn in the rental car before we were charged for an extra day. That was how we justified the cost of the room. I took care of that quickly after we ate, but I was given no assurance that we could get a special pickup for Terri for our trip to the airport in the morning. I couldn’t see her crossing a busy street with crutches on, even at 6:45 a.m. I decided to work the logistics of that in the morning and take it as it came. 

Curiously right across the street was a cinema. It had only 3 theaters but Rosie noticed “Winged Migration” was playing. Terri could not go anywhere but didn’t mind vegging out in front of the TV. I reviewed the movie elsewhere. There is no plot other than to watch all sorts of birds migrate from north to south and back again. If you want birds’ eye views of birds in flight this will be a movie to appreciate. I’m not sure how they got some of those shots. I was glad to see the movie even if I was something of a zombie when it was over. I hadn’t slept well the night before and I was dead tired. 

We worried the restaurant and massage parlor would never shut down but eventually they did. Terri and I retired to a queen-size bed in the back bedroom. Rosie chose the queen-size bed in the living room. We had to catch a 6:45 a.m. shuttle to the airport. Despite being tired we had to complete packing and get everything ready before retiring. Between the lack of sleep and all the hustling to keep up with Terri’s needs I had no trouble sleeping well for the few hours available to us. It would be an early morning wake up for us.