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July 30 - August 5, 2006 Other Trips
For our last day, we decided to try a hike none of us had ever done before – the Bear Lake to Fern Lake Loop. This 8-mile hike is so named because it connects the Bear Lake and Fern Lake Trailheads. Along the way, the hike passes Bear Lake, Notchtop Mountain, the Little Matterhorn, Odessa Lake, Fern Lake, Fern Falls, The Pool, and Arch Rocks. It is best to begin from the Bear Lake end. Going this direction, the trail makes a steep initial ascent, but then gradually descends for much of the remainder. Obviously, two cars will be needed, or you can always ride the shuttle back to your trailhead of origin.
I rose early that day to do some sunrise photography at Moraine Park. The alpenglow on Longs Peak was perfect. I also took a short drive up Trail Ridge Road to look for wildlife. I saw a couple of bull elk, but nothing more exotic. I then returned to the Fern Lake Trailhead to wait for the others to arrive.
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The rest of the group arrived at about 8:00 a.m. I hopped into their car and we all drove up to the Bear Lake Trailhead. The trail begins along the eastern shore of Bear Lake. It then branches off and continues east away from the lake for about a quarter-mile before turning sharply west. The first 1.5 miles of the trail climbs over 1,300 feet. My legs were still a bit fatigued from Longs Peak two days before, and the initial elevation gain of this hike took me by surprise.
After about one mile, the trail begins to enter areas cleared by avalanche. It was here that Notchtop Mountain first came into view. As you can see, the sky was overcast and remained mostly cloudy for the rest of the day. I didn’t mind too much given how good the weather had been for the remainder of the week. The open areas had very nice wildflower displays.
After about 2 miles, the trail wraps to the north around Joe Mills Mountain and begins to descend. Here, the trail skirts high up along the east side of the Tourmaline Gorge, which holds Odessa and Fern Lakes. The trail offers impressive views across the gorge towards Notchtop and the Little Matterhorn.
The trail actually passes about 500 feet beyond Odessa Lake before a sharp switchback returns you to the lake along the floor of the Gorge. The trail approaches Odessa right alongside Fern Creek – its banks flush with marigolds and other wildflowers.
Odessa Lake, with Notchtop and the Little Matterhorn prominently in the background, is very scenic.
We continued north and east towards Fern Lake, not more than a half-mile distant. The lake could be named either for the surrounding vegetation or for the beautiful green water. There were numerous fishermen here that day. I was surprised to find a ranger cabin right on the shore.
After another short break, we continued north and east for another 2 miles to Fern Falls. Fern is actually more of a large cascade, which, unfortunately, just isn’t very photogenic. I did my best.
From Fern Falls, it is another mile or so east to the Pool. I stopped at several points to photograph the vegetation and Fern Creek. It was well worth it. Christopher, Drew, and Dad greeted me at the Pool with the news that I had just missed a bear. Apparently, it crossed the trail right behind Christopher.
The Pool is largely clogged with fallen trees, now. Were it discovered today, it might not even garner a name.
From the Pool, the trail extends about two more mostly-level miles to the Fern Lake Trailhead. Along they way, the trail passes through two massive boulders called Arch Rocks.
The hike was fun and fulfilling, but I arrived at the trailhead with a sense of sadness, knowing that that I had reached then end of my last hike in the park – at least for this year.
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