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The following are real questions submitted to Hike Rocky, and my answers:

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Q:  I only have X days in the park. Which hikes should I do?

A:  Everyone has their favorite hikes, but the following are all must-do hikes for first-time visitors (all distances one-way):

  1. Glacier Gorge TH to Sky Pond – 4.85 miles – Moderate – The classic RMNP hike in the prettiest area of the Park. This hike will take you past two of the Park’s most impressive waterfalls, Alberta and Timberline Falls, and past 3 lakes: The Loch, considered to be one of the most beautiful in the Park, Lake of Glass, and Sky Pond. This hike also involves a fun scramble up Timberline Falls. See thie trip report for GGTH TH to the Loch Junction, and this trip report for the Loch Junction to Sky Pond.

  2. Longs Peak TH to Longs Peak Summit (Keyhole Route) – 7.5 miles – Difficult – IF you are willing to hit the trail by 3:00 a.m. and are in good enough shape to tackle over 4,000 feet of elevation gain, Longs Peak is a must. Once through the Keyhole, you will have amazing views of the Glacier Gorge and the entire range. Not for those with a fear of heights. See my trip report. If you would like to experience Longs, but don’t need to stand on top of it....

  3. Longs Peak TH to Chasm Lake – 4.2 miles – Moderate – Chasm Lake is one of the most beautiful lakes in the Park and it is certainly the most dramatically situated, right at the base of Longs’ East Face Diamond. The latter half of the hike rises above treeline to amazing views, and passes the iridescent Peacock Pool on the way.

  4. Bear Lake TH to Emerald Lake – 1.8 miles – Easy – This is the most popular hike for a reason, 3 reasons, actually: it is short and easy, it offers great views of Longs and the Keyboard of the Winds, and it passes Dream Lake, probably the most beautiful lake in the Park. Start early to avoid the crowds. See my trip report. To make a full day, take a drive up Trail Ridge Road after you get back to the trailhead.

  5. Wild Basin TH to Ouzel Falls – 2.7 miles – Easy – Wild Basin is lower in elevation and has much denser vegetation, at least until you reach the forest fire areas, which teem with wildflowers during the summer. The first half of the trail follows closely to the North St. Vrain Creek and passes Calypso Cascades on the way to Ouzel. You can hike much further into Wild Basin if you want – towards Thunder, Bluebird, or the Lion Lakes. See my trip report.

  6. Glacier Gorge TH to Black Lake – 4.75 miles – Moderate – The same trail that goes to Sky Pond, but branch off towards Mills Lake before you reach the Loch. Mills Lake is another one of the Park’s prettiest lakes, reflecting Longs and the Keyboard of the Winds. The trail between Mills and Black is dotted with meadows full of wildflowers. Ribbon Falls, just below Black Lake, is a beatiful cascade. If you are feeling adventurous, leave the trail and climb to Shelf and Solitude Lakes for a fantastic experience. See my trip report.

Other good hikes include:

  • Cow Creek TH to Bridal Veil Falls – 3 miles – Easy – Much of the trail passes through a large meadow. Towards the end, the trail climbs steeply into the trees to another one of the Park’s best waterfalls.

  • Bear Lake to Fern Lake Loop – 8.5 miles – Moderate – Starts at Bear Lake TH and hike to Fern Lake TH, passing Bear, Odessa, and Fern Lakes on the way. You will also see Fern Falls, The Pool, and Arch Rocks.

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Q:  What is the best time of year to go?

A:  That depends on, to a large extent, when your boss will let you go, and, to a lesser extent, what you want to see and do. As an example, here are three different times:

  • Early July: The streams, waterfalls, and lakes are flush with snowmelt, there are a lot of snow patches left in the high elevations, and wildflowers are abundant. Clouds and rain are more prevalent than later in the summer.

  • Late July to Mid-August: The best weather, but also the most crowded. Most wildflowers have already peaked, but they are still abundant. Hit the trails no later than 8:00 a.m.

  • Mid to Late September: The temperatures are colder and the weather is less predictable, but the crowds are much lower, the aspens are turning, and the elk are everywhere.

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Q:  What is the weather like?

A:  In summer on the east side, the mornings are usually clear, there is a good chance of thunderstorms every afternoon, and the evenings are clear. Temperatures can range from the 40s to 80s. Dress in layers and bring rain gear.

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Q:  What are the best hikes for kids?

A:  It depends on how old the kids are and how much you think they can handle. Dream Lake and Alberta Falls are both very short and very scenic hikes. A stroll in the Wild Basin as far as you want to go is also a good idea. Make sure you go up Trail Ridge Road – unless anyone struggles with carsickness. Avoid extended hikes above treeline.

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Q:  What is you favorite hike?

A:  The hike to Chasm Lake and the hike to Shelf & Solitude Lakes are probably tied.

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Q:  Which hikes to avoid?

A:  The Old Ute Trail, from the Old Ute Trail TH on Trail Ridge Road, is a great tundra hike – until you start descending towards Beaver Meadows. The descent is long, dry, boring, and tough on the knees. Plus, you need another car to get back up to the TH. Stick to the tundra portion.

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Q:  How long should I acclimate before hiking?

A:  That depends on (a) where you are coming from, (b) what condition you are in, and (c) what hikes you want to do. For example, I visit from Kansas every year. I am in reasonable shape - not overweight, but not a marathon runner, either. I drive out on a Saturday, arrive in Estes that night, and start hiking the next morning. I usually begin hiking in my favorite area - Glacier Gorge. The trails here top out between 11 and 12,000 feet. I have never had any difficulty adjusting to altitude.

Some people tend to overemphasize the need for acclimating. I would speculate that, even for a flatlander, unless you are in really bad shape, no acclimating should be necessary for most reasonable hikes. Just don't attempt Longs on your first day!

The key to avoiding altitude sickness is to monitor yourself carefully during the hike. Take small, frequent breaks. Take small, frequent drinks of water. Eat small, frequent snacks. If you find yourself out of breath or developing a headache, find some shade and stop to rest. Of course, if you are severely overweight or have other health problems, you should consult your doctor before you make the trip.

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Q:  What advice can you give me about climbing Longs?

A:  The most popular, and only non-technical, route is the Keyhole Route. It is only non-technical during the summer, and even then it depends upon the weather. My advice for this route:

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Q:  Where can I see bighorn sheep?

A:  Any ranger you talk to will advise Sheep Lake. I have never seen bighorn there. I have never failed to see a pack of people with binoculars looking for bighorn there. Your best bet is to drive Trail Ridge Road as often as possible – especially if you want to see the more interesting rams – which stick to the high country during the summer. Early morning or early evening are the best times, though I found them at mid-day during the latest trip.

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Q:  Where can I see elk?

A:  Everywhere, but Trail Ridge Road is one of the best places.

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Q:  Where can I see bear / mountain lions?

A:  The zoo. There are few of each in the Park and sightings are rare – much rarer for the mountain lions than the bear.

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Q:  Where should I stay?

A:  All the best hikes are on the east side of the Park, so Estes Park is the best area to stay. There are hundreds of choices available, all but the worst of which will likely be full in peak season, so make your reservations well ahead of time. There are many reasonably-priced cabins and rooms situated on the banks of Fall River, but if you are really budget-minded and want to stay near the park entrance, the All Budget Inn and Alpine Trail Ridge Inn both offer simple and clean accommodations. There is also plenty of camping available in the Park, both at group sites and backcountry sites. Go here for a great index of lodging in Estes Park.

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Q:  How do I get a backcountry permit?

A:  Backcountry permits can be picked up at the Backcountry Office, near the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. The more popular camps will require reservations well in advance, especially for nights during peak season. The Backcountry Office first starts accepting reservations by phone (970.586.1242) for each calendar year on March 1. It also accepts written reservation requests, using this form, mailed to:

     Backcountry/Wilderness Permits
     Rocky Mountain National Park
     Estes Park, CO 80517

You can send this form earlier than March 1 and the rangers will begin opening requests when they start taking phone calls on March 1. Your best bet of getting a coveted spot at Glacier Gorge or another popular site is to (a) arrive in person on March 1, or (b) send a written request and try to call in on March 1. Give yourself as much flexibility as possible in your written request.

For more information, the Park provides this guide to backcountry camping.

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Q:  Where should I propose to my girlfriend?

A:  First, make sure she’s the kind of girl who won’t mind being proposed too while sweaty and in hiking shorts. If she isn’t, ditch her. I would pick Dream Lake. Go early to avoid the crowds.

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Q:  Brad, your site is definitely the best resource on the web to Rocky Mountain National Park, but if I need less comprehensive information and worse pictures, where else can I go?

A:  Go here:

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