Who Cooked That Up? is copyrighted 2005 by J.J. SchnebelWHO COOKED
THAT UP?J.J. Schnebel wonders...
Chicken Marengo has a story that is an inspiration for many a cook who is at a loss to find something to prepare for dinner.It goes like this. Napoleon Bonaparte had taken his army across the Alps into Italy, pursuing the Austrians to a town called Marengo where it looked as though a terrible defeat was awaiting him. As was his custom, Napoleon ate nothing before the battle, but when French reinforcements arrived and he had a great triumph, he was ravenously hungry and turned to his personal chef and demanded something to eat. Now, in the course of the confusion and haste, the supply wagons had been left behind and the chef had neither provisions nor utensils. What to do? A search party was sent out and returned with a chicken, a couple of crayfish, a handful of eggs, a few tomatoes, some garlic, a little oil -- and a skillet.
The chef cut up the chickens with a sabre and fried them in the oil with the garlic. He chopped the tomatoes and added them to to the chicken. He took some brandy from the Napoleon's own flask and tossed that in for flavor. Somebody had a ration of army bread (something like hardtack, I suppose) and he fried that along with the eggs. Finally, he cooked the crayfish and served them on the plate as garnish. Napoleon pronounced it a great victory dish and ordered it to be prepared after every battle.
The story also says that when the chef Dunan (sometimes spelled Dunand) tried to improve on the dish by substituting white wine for the brandy and eliminating the crayfish, the superstitious Napoleon refused to eat it. Nothing would do for him but to celebrate a victory by eating the dish as originally created.
There's a problem with the story, however, and it's that, according to the Larousse Gastronomique, chef Dunan was not in the employ of Bonaparte until 1805, and the battle of
Marengo took place in June of 1800. In any case, no matter who created it or when, Chicken Marengo is named for a victory that was dear to Napoleon. In fact, another legend says that his favorite white horse was also called Marengo, but that too is debatable, as there is no record of a horse of that name in Napoleon's stable.
The dish continues to be popular today, especially in Europe, where there are variations and adaptations but always the memory of a great victory by a legendary figure over 200 years ago.
CHICKEN MARENGO
(modern adaptation)
(6 Servings)6 skinless chicken breasts
1/4 cup flour
2 Tbs butter
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 1/2 cups white wine
1 large can (28 ounces) peeled tomatoes
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped basil
1 dash Tabasco sauce or pinch of cayenne pepper
1 pound white mushrooms, sliced
2 onions sliced
salt and pepperSprinkle the chicken breasts with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and sauté in 1 Tbs butter until lightly browned on both sides.
Transfer the chicken pieces to a plate.
Put the garlic in the pan, add the white wine and sliced onions and cook for five minutes.
Add the can of peeled tomatoes, chicken broth, parsley, basil and Tabasco or cayenne pepper. Simmer for 15 minutes.
Return the chicken pieces to the pan, cover and cook over a low flame for 30 minutes.
Put 1 Tbs butter in a hot pan; when melted, add mushrooms and cook for about five minutes before adding to the chicken and cooking for 10 more minutes.Serve over toast points or with steamed rice.
Return to Starview
Home Page