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My list of top 20 Mt. Lemmon trad routes
These are mostly fun-in-the-sun routes, meaning well-protected, reasonable approaches, etc. NOT the hairy, never-again survival climbs that cause nightmares. Route order is roughly by elevation driving up the highway. |
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| Colorado Crush 5.10, Sabino Canyon | A classic adventure up a beautiful line with great position and great views. |
| Kor Route 5.9, Sabino Canyon | Put up by the master himself. Last time I did it, Kor's pitons were still there. Another classic adventure route. |
| Crow's Nest 5.10, Chimney Rock | |
| Trick Or Treat 5.9, Hearthstone | |
| Cripple Creek 5.10, Pharaoh | A multi-pitch adventure climb in Bear Canyon ! |
| Lizard Marmalade Direct 5.10d, Windy Pt | |
| New Wave (Original) 5.12a, Windy Pt | Skip the bolts and do it the old way. |
| R1 5.8+, Windy Pt | A 2-pitch adventure route at Windy Point. |
| R4 5.9, Windy Pt | |
| Last Supper 5.11, Windy Pt | An old test-piece from the 70s. Short but sweet. |
| Slippery When Wet 5.6, Windy Pt | 2 pitches with excellent position, tough to beat at the grade. |
| Histoplasmosis 5.11d, Windy Pt | |
| Edge of Delight 5.10, Windy Pt | |
| Seventh Sojourn 5.9, Windy Pt | |
| Credibility Gap 5.10+, Goosehead | |
| Quick-draw McGraw 5.10, Green Mtn. | It's bolted, but it's definitely not a sport climb ! |
| Warm And Free 5.10, Reef of Rock | Approach is not exactly short, but the route is fun and it's a good way to sample the Reef without the usual anxiety. |
| Chiboni/Quick Death/VoodooChild 5.11, Rap Rock | This link-up is outstanding. |
| Bender-Axen/Black Quacker 5.7, Rap Rock | A long moderate on a big rock. A great way to spent a couple of hours. |
| The Rupley Route 5.9, Fortress | A Tucson classic. |