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My top 20 S. Arizona "low 5.12" sport routes.
Only includes routes I have actually climbed, although there are a couple I haven't redpointed. Low 12s are where sport climbing is most fun to me. So I'm mostly including 12As and 12Bs although some 12Cs make the list too. This list reflects my own peculiar tastes. I like steep stuff. I like climbs that are unusual for an area. This list may seem weighted towards routes that I have put up, but actually that makes sense. I tend to drill things that fit my tastes. If you have suggestions or want to tell me I'm wrong, use the guest book on the home page. There are no perfect 12s in S. Arizona that I know of. Each of these routes has some kind of imperfection. The notes will show some of the imperfections. |
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| Spinal Twist 12b ***, The Dry | Just the most fun single pitch in S. Arizona. So many cool holds and body positions. Gets harder/steeper as you go, just like it should. Could be a little longer. |
| Hard Day at the Orifice 12b ***, Fortress | The most awesome looking climb on the list. And almost as much fun as Spinal Twist. Steep and EXPOSED. Although the pod is a unique feature, dealing with it is kind of awkward. Start and finish are less good than the middle. |
| Loose Stools 12a ***, The Dry | Not that steep, but this climb has a lot going on. |
| Milanoma 12b/c ***, The Beach, Milagrosa | Pure, unrelenting ACTION. Could be longer. |
| Eclipse 12d ***, The Beach, Milagrosa | Not exactly a "low" 12, but it starts easy enough to break you in gently so it's fun. Super steep, only knock is it's only 30 feet long. |
| Tsunami 12b ***, Windy Point | The Mt. Lemmon classic. Crux is a bit sharp. |
| New Wave Direct 12b/c ***, Windy Point | Another classic. |
| Sentenced to Hang 12a/b ***-, Jailhouse | Rest is a bit too good. |
| Ten Years After 12a ***-, The Steep | Lots of action marred slightly by full recovery rests. |
| Cressent 12c ***-, The Steep | Steep part is excellent. May be 12b if you're over 6 feet tall. Some won't like the ending. |
| Delirious 12a ***-, Middle Earth | Ending is a mar to some. |
| Honker 12b ***-, Windy Point | Been a while since I've done it, maybe should be higher on list. But has a funky start. Would be better if first 20 feet could be buried in sand. |
| El Torito 12b ***-, The Helmet | Too short, but action packed. |
| Mad Skilz 12b ***-, Skillsaw | 85 foot route with lots of variety and an amazing finish. Crux is a slab, but a good slab. Slight tooling will bother some. |
| Demolition Derby 12a ***-, The Helmet | Needs more traffic to clean it up, but great moves, lots of action. |
| Irresistable 12b ***-, Middle Earth | The variation to Delirious may actually be better than the original. Strange ending though. |
| Serial Driller 12b ***-, Sky Valley | Unusual and sustained. Would be better if anchor was lower. |
| Get Over It 12a/b ***-, The Ravelin | Weird anchor placement. |
| Ecstatic Electricity 12a ***-, Milagrosa | Funky ending. |
| The Crossing 12b **, The Helmet | A fun boulder problem with an exciting finish. Actual hard climbing is only 30 feet. |
| Solar Power 12a **, The Beach, Milagrosa | Debatable whether this route should be listed here, but it's good. |
| Honorable Mentions ------> | Veganator, Oh Bee-have, Dr. Evil, Heartbreaker, Raven Maniac (haven't tried it yet), Prowess, Green Ripper. |