The Steep

Spiderman

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Tony Lusk lit the fire to start development of this crag. It is one of the best small sport crags on the mountain and yet sees almost no traffic. If you go, you will certainly be thanking Tony for his efforts.
Post-Fire Trail Update: The recent fire burned the area leading to the crag, and the old climbers trail was obliterated by the ensuing erosion. So here's a new approach description...
To get to The Steep, drive to Summerhaven and continue south from there to the parking area for the Aspen Loop Trail (ALT) and Marshall Gulch. Take the trail _south_ out of the parking area. At first the trail goes through untouched trees, but then goes through a burned-out area that is now a baby aspen/fern JUNGLE. After about 5 minutes walking in the jungle, the trail switchbacks steeply up a hill and then loops around a giant old fallen tree (which may be so well hidden by ferns that you can't see it). After the switchbacks and after the giant fallen tree (which may be hidden), the trail straightens out and the jungle opens up. About 100 yards beyond this point, the ALT swings fairly sharply right (west) and up a slope. (It takes 15-20 min of hiking to get to this point.) At this point, leave the ALT and head _due_south_. There is a big stump about 50 feet ahead, turn left when you get to it and follow a cairned path that has some turns but basically trends south and east. After 5 minutes walking the terrain starts to slope steeply down toward Upper Sabino Creek. From there you should be able to see the top of the crag a couple of hundred feet away. There are lots of cairns along the way, so keep an eye out for them.
On the USGS topo of the area, the ALT is incorrectly marked. The topo shows the ALT swinging west up to peak 8113 too soon. It really does not make that swing until it gets between the "y" in "canyon" and the "7800" iso label. The crag itself is the stack of iso-lines just west of the "S" in "Gaging Station".
Routes are described starting with the uphill, west-side routes, proceeding counter-clockwise around the crag.
Overview

Bunkweed
5.10a * Sport The first route encountered when approaching the crag is also the easiest. I find people's reactions to this route illuminating. Are you broad-minded or narrow-minded when it comes to enjoying climbing routes ? The former tend to like it for its somewhat alpine "feel", the latter tend to hate it for its gravelly start and sharp holds. (Glenn Todd, 1999)

Stone Free
5.11a *1/2 Sport Just right of Bunkweed is a right-facing ramp. Two routes share a start here and then split at about the 3rd bolt. Stone Free is the left-hand branch. It is fairly sustained and overhangs about 8 feet in 50. (John Baker, Andrew Kornylak, Eric Rhicard, Murray Freestone, June 2003)

???
11d/12a * Sport The right-hand branch of the pair of routes mentioned above. This is still a project as far as I know. (Glenn Todd, sometime in the future)

Slappin' the Johnson
11d/12a **? Sport To the right of the previous route is a deep cleft with a route on the left-hand wall. (Steve Johnson, July 2001)

Green Monster
5.11 **? Sport The right-hand wall of the cleft has a route too. It's supposed to be really good. (Tony Lusk, 1999 ?)

George of the Jungle
stiff 5.11 ** Sport Shares a start with Green Monster. Climb to the 5th bolt of Green Monster, but don't clip it. Instead clip a bolt slightly higher and right. This is where the routes diverge. Two more bolts on the steep arete take you to the anchors. This route is best cleaned by having someone follow it. If you clean from the top, watch out for that tree. (John Baker, May 2001)

???
5.11a/b ** Sport To the right of the previous route is a slabby area leading to steeper ground with two routes side by side. This is the left-hand of the two routes. It's pretty darn fun.

Two Birds Too Stoned
5.10 ** Sport The right-hand of the pair of routes mentioned above is the standard warm-up route of the crag. This route provides access to the top of the crag if you run it out above the anchors. Slabby at the bottom, steep and fun at the top. (Tony Lusk & ?, 1998 ?)

???
5.11 Sport Around the corner from the above route is an alternate start which joins the above route a few bolts up.

???
5.10?? Sport Just right of a chimney. I don't know who put it up, and I don't know why they bothered. I thought it sucked.

Delt Melt
5.12 ** Sport The steep hanging dihedral at the left side of the dramatic roof. The first bolt was moved higher to discourage stick-clipping the 2nd (which I consider to be cheating). Burly at the bottom, thin and slabby at the top. (John Baker, Tony Lusk, Cres Snyder, Joe Shiefman, Oct. 1999)

Tony's Roof AKA Cres-sent
5.12 *** Sport (Photos) An exceptional route. The sizes of the holds vary perfectly with the angle so that the route is challenging all the way. The first 40 feet is steep power. The last 20 feet are balancy and funky, but good. The route starts just right of the Delt Melt dihedral. It is easily identified by the BIG buckets on the steepest part. 9 bolts plus chains (FA ground up on aid: Tony Lusk; FFA: Cres Snyder, Tony Lusk, Joe Shiefman, John Baker, July 2001)

Ten Years After
5.12 *** Sport An old Glenn Todd project that he let sit idle for 10 years. So I got after it, finished cleaning, reinforcing and updating all the bolts to stainless steel (and moved them to better spots). It is about 60 feet high and overhangs 20+ feet. (JBaker, JShiefman, Dillon Cooper, Oct 2007)

Dr. Evil
5.12 ** Sport The right-most route on the SW face. Start at a pillar in a cave-like area formed by a big offset roof. After you clip the 3rd bolt, reach back and UN-clip the 2nd to avoid rope-drag at the lip of the roof. Your belayer can un-clip the 1st bolt at the same time. Wind through bulges and roofs to the big roof high up which is turned on the right. Action-packed and devious. Overhangs 25 feet in 70. 11 bolts plus chains. (John Baker, Miles Kunkel, Cres Snyder, Joe Shiefman, Darek, July 1999)

Stepping Into Blue Sky
5.11 ***? Sport Starts down and around the corner to the right of Dr. Evil. This is the left-most route on the narrow SE face of the crag. Diagonals up and left. Now has a second pitch that comes BACK around the corner towards Dr. Evil, then follows the arete straight up. Tony says it's great. May still be red-tagged.

???
5.11b? * Sport Oddly bolted line starts by pulling a roof, then winds between pillars up to a crack which is followed straight up. Would be good if a couple of the bolts were moved. (Tony Lusk, 1999)

MiniMe
5.11a/b *1/2 Sport This route and Fat Bastard share two bolts right on the toe of the crag. Then MiniMe branches left. Overhangs 10 feet. Catches a lot of morning sun, so it's a good warm-up on a cool morning. (Cres Snyder, John Baker, May 2001)

Fat Bastard
5.11c *1/2 Sport Shares a start with MiniMe. Follow bolts up the slab right ON the toe of the crag, trending right after bolt 2 to an overhanging layback formation. (Joe Shiefman, Oct 1999)

The back side (NE face) of The Steep

Johnny Rotten
5.12 * Sport This 30 degree overhang looks like a refugee from The Beach. If the rock was perfect it would be 2 stars, but it's a bit grainy. It has a history of loose bolts although they all seem to be fine now. They are close enough together that you are never depending on just one. It is sustained, powerful and the final sequence is outstanding. (John Baker, Cres Snyder, Aug 2000)

Spiderman
5.11 *** Sport Start below a small roof/arch following left-trending bolts. The first ascentionists ran into about 50 daddy long-legs at bolt 9. A bit flaky at the start but good above the 3rd bolt. Overhangs 10 feet in 75. 11 bolts plus anchors. (John Baker, Cres Snyder, Aug 1999)

Goldmember
5.11d ** Sport Right of Spiderman, follow bolts up and right through the steep, confusing crux to some big jugs. When you reach the golden knob, shake out and have a chuckle. (Craig Kafura, Mark Hathaway, May 2002)

???
Slightly right of the above route is a perhaps abandoned project that probably isn't worth the time and metal.

First Blood?
5.11a Sport Up the hill a ways, back in a gully is a knobby face route. (Steve Johnson, Date ?)

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	Tony Lusk lit the fire to start development of this crag. It is one of the best small sport crags on the mountain and yet sees almost no traffic. If you go, you will certainly be thanking Tony for his efforts. Post-Fire Trail Update: The recent fire burned the area leading to the crag, and the old climbers trail was obliterated by the ensuing erosion. So here's a new approach description... To get to The Steep, drive to Summerhaven and continue south from there to the parking area for the Aspen Loop Trail (ALT) and Marshall Gulch. Take the trail _south_ out of the parking area. At first the trail goes through untouched trees, but then goes through a burned-out area that is now a baby aspen/fern JUNGLE. After about 5 minutes walking in the jungle, the trail switchbacks steeply up a hill and then loops around a giant old fallen tree (which may be so well hidden by ferns that you can't see it). After the switchbacks and after the giant fallen tree (which may be hidden), the trail straightens out and the jungle opens up. About 100 yards beyond this point, the ALT swings fairly sharply right (west) and up a slope. (It takes 15-20 min of hiking to get to this point.) At this point, leave the ALT and head _due_south_. There is a big stump about 50 feet ahead, turn left when you get to it and follow a cairned path that has some turns but basically trends south and east. After 5 minutes walking the terrain starts to slope steeply down toward Upper Sabino Creek. From there you should be able to see the top of the crag a couple of hundred feet away. There are lots of cairns along the way, so keep an eye out for them. On the USGS topo of the area, the ALT is incorrectly marked. The topo shows the ALT swinging west up to peak 8113 too soon. It really does not make that swing until it gets between the "y" in "canyon" and the "7800" iso label. The crag itself is the stack of iso-lines just west of the "S" in "Gaging Station". Routes are described starting with the uphill, west-side routes, proceeding counter-clockwise around the crag. Overview
Bunkweed 5.10a * Sport	The first route encountered when approaching the crag is also the easiest. I find people's reactions to this route illuminating. Are you broad-minded or narrow-minded when it comes to enjoying climbing routes ? The former tend to like it for its somewhat alpine "feel", the latter tend to hate it for its gravelly start and sharp holds. (Glenn Todd, 1999)
Stone Free 5.11a *1/2 Sport	Just right of Bunkweed is a right-facing ramp. Two routes share a start here and then split at about the 3rd bolt. Stone Free is the left-hand branch. It is fairly sustained and overhangs about 8 feet in 50. (John Baker, Andrew Kornylak, Eric Rhicard, Murray Freestone, June 2003)
??? 11d/12a * Sport	The right-hand branch of the pair of routes mentioned above. This is still a project as far as I know. (Glenn Todd, sometime in the future)
Slappin' the Johnson 11d/12a **? Sport	To the right of the previous route is a deep cleft with a route on the left-hand wall. (Steve Johnson, July 2001)
Green Monster 5.11 **? Sport	The right-hand wall of the cleft has a route too. It's supposed to be really good. (Tony Lusk, 1999 ?)
George of the Jungle stiff 5.11 ** Sport	Shares a start with Green Monster. Climb to the 5th bolt of Green Monster, but don't clip it. Instead clip a bolt slightly higher and right. This is where the routes diverge. Two more bolts on the steep arete take you to the anchors. This route is best cleaned by having someone follow it. If you clean from the top, watch out for that tree. (John Baker, May 2001)
??? 5.11a/b ** Sport	To the right of the previous route is a slabby area leading to steeper ground with two routes side by side. This is the left-hand of the two routes. It's pretty darn fun.
Two Birds Too Stoned 5.10 ** Sport	The right-hand of the pair of routes mentioned above is the standard warm-up route of the crag. This route provides access to the top of the crag if you run it out above the anchors. Slabby at the bottom, steep and fun at the top. (Tony Lusk & ?, 1998 ?)
??? 5.11 Sport	Around the corner from the above route is an alternate start which joins the above route a few bolts up.
??? 5.10?? Sport	Just right of a chimney. I don't know who put it up, and I don't know why they bothered. I thought it sucked.
Delt Melt 5.12 ** Sport	The steep hanging dihedral at the left side of the dramatic roof. The first bolt was moved higher to discourage stick-clipping the 2nd (which I consider to be cheating). Burly at the bottom, thin and slabby at the top. (John Baker, Tony Lusk, Cres Snyder, Joe Shiefman, Oct. 1999)
Tony's Roof AKA Cres-sent 5.12 *** Sport (Photos)	An exceptional route. The sizes of the holds vary perfectly with the angle so that the route is challenging all the way. The first 40 feet is steep power. The last 20 feet are balancy and funky, but good. The route starts just right of the Delt Melt dihedral. It is easily identified by the BIG buckets on the steepest part. 9 bolts plus chains (FA ground up on aid: Tony Lusk; FFA: Cres Snyder, Tony Lusk, Joe Shiefman, John Baker, July 2001)
Ten Years After 5.12 *** Sport	An old Glenn Todd project that he let sit idle for 10 years. So I got after it, finished cleaning, reinforcing and updating all the bolts to stainless steel (and moved them to better spots). It is about 60 feet high and overhangs 20+ feet. (JBaker, JShiefman, Dillon Cooper, Oct 2007)
Dr. Evil 5.12 ** Sport	The right-most route on the SW face. Start at a pillar in a cave-like area formed by a big offset roof. After you clip the 3rd bolt, reach back and UN-clip the 2nd to avoid rope-drag at the lip of the roof. Your belayer can un-clip the 1st bolt at the same time. Wind through bulges and roofs to the big roof high up which is turned on the right. Action-packed and devious. Overhangs 25 feet in 70. 11 bolts plus chains. (John Baker, Miles Kunkel, Cres Snyder, Joe Shiefman, Darek, July 1999)
Stepping Into Blue Sky 5.11 ***? Sport	Starts down and around the corner to the right of Dr. Evil. This is the left-most route on the narrow SE face of the crag. Diagonals up and left. Now has a second pitch that comes BACK around the corner towards Dr. Evil, then follows the arete straight up. Tony says it's great. May still be red-tagged.
??? 5.11b? * Sport	Oddly bolted line starts by pulling a roof, then winds between pillars up to a crack which is followed straight up. Would be good if a couple of the bolts were moved. (Tony Lusk, 1999)
MiniMe 5.11a/b *1/2 Sport	This route and Fat Bastard share two bolts right on the toe of the crag. Then MiniMe branches left. Overhangs 10 feet. Catches a lot of morning sun, so it's a good warm-up on a cool morning. (Cres Snyder, John Baker, May 2001)
Fat Bastard 5.11c *1/2 Sport	Shares a start with MiniMe. Follow bolts up the slab right ON the toe of the crag, trending right after bolt 2 to an overhanging layback formation. (Joe Shiefman, Oct 1999)
	The back side (NE face) of The Steep
Johnny Rotten 5.12 * Sport	This 30 degree overhang looks like a refugee from The Beach. If the rock was perfect it would be 2 stars, but it's a bit grainy. It has a history of loose bolts although they all seem to be fine now. They are close enough together that you are never depending on just one. It is sustained, powerful and the final sequence is outstanding. (John Baker, Cres Snyder, Aug 2000)
Spiderman 5.11 *** Sport	Start below a small roof/arch following left-trending bolts. The first ascentionists ran into about 50 daddy long-legs at bolt 9. A bit flaky at the start but good above the 3rd bolt. Overhangs 10 feet in 75. 11 bolts plus anchors. (John Baker, Cres Snyder, Aug 1999)
Goldmember 5.11d ** Sport	Right of Spiderman, follow bolts up and right through the steep, confusing crux to some big jugs. When you reach the golden knob, shake out and have a chuckle. (Craig Kafura, Mark Hathaway, May 2002)
???	Slightly right of the above route is a perhaps abandoned project that probably isn't worth the time and metal.
First Blood? 5.11a Sport	Up the hill a ways, back in a gully is a knobby face route. (Steve Johnson, Date ?)

South of the Aspen Loop Crag is a big plate of rock. A somewhat technical scramble south and a bit east down the rock will bring you to a short SE facing wall with about half a dozen 5.7 to 5.10 slab routes.