Ray's childhood friend, Peter, joined Ray in Mojave, CA for two weeks of hiking on the PCT. Daily temperatures above 100 degrees lack of shade, and limited water remained the biggest challenges of the week. The landscape was dotted with chaparrals, yucca plants, Joshua trees, and enormous windmills that help meet the electrical needs of the greater LA population. Daily encounters with snakes kept he and Peter (aka trail name, Fish (Out of Water) on their toes, literately. With one encounter, Ray noticed a rattlesnake under his foot and stopped short using his hiking poles. The snake mistook the pole for his leg, launched, and bit the pole. Another hiker this week wasn't as lucky and was actually bitten in the hand by a rattlesnake while lying down to take a break. His hand and arm were swollen considerably, but the hiker seemed to be doing okay the next morning. The climbs this week were long but gradual. The numerous switchbacks were made that much more arduous by a week's worth of food and enough water to get to the next supply which was often over 20 miles up the trail. There appears to be approximately about 40 thru-hikers ahead of "Wall" at this point on the trail and another 40 behind him. After 162 miles over the 6 days in this section gave "Wall" and "Fish (Out of Water)" a 27 mile per day average this week, and "Wall", a 25.5 miles per day average for his first 28 days on the trail. Amazingly, there has not been a trace of rain thus far on the trip for "Wall". Conversations to fill the time have ranged from past childhood adventures that "Fish" & "Wall" lived through to now laugh about (including high school), to more serious matters such as the recent loss of a parent in past years and the related emotions and consequences. With all the food for the week consumed, both hikers enjoyed the relative weightlessness of their packs on the last morning as they made their way to Kennedy Meadows General Store for a resupply, shower, and mini-feast. Kennedy Meadows is the last stop on the trail prior to The High Sierras so many hikers typically spend a few days there to rest up, recharge their batteries, and socialize with fellow thru-hikers. "Fish" and "Wall spent 4 hours there to make calls back home, hydrate, eat, and pick up food and equipment for the up coming week. "Wall" picked up new sneakers as well as his ice ax and fleece clothing for the higher elevations. The dinner location that evening gave "Wall" and "Fish" a taste of things to come as they sat on a footbridge overlooking Monarch Meadows (elevation 7,500 feet) which is the largest mountain meadow in the Sierras as well as the headwaters to the mighty Kern River. Nesting Cliff Swallows buzzed overhead while the trout scurried about the tranquil icy waters below. With about 20 hikers still ahead at Kennedy Meadows, that leaves about 20 more hikers within approximately 6 or 7 days ahead to hopefully lay down tracks through the snow covered passes to come.
Getting over Glen Pass wasn't too steep and was relatively uneventful. The Rae Lakes (a popular camping area with over sixty lakes) on the other side rewarded "Fish" and "Wall" with much beauty. As we left this area it was hard not to wonder if our life's paths would enable us to ever get6 back to these tranquil locations. Yet, with Pinchot Pass still to do, getting over the second pass later that day left "Fish" and "Wall" little time to ponder such questions. In fact, it wasn't until 7:00 pm that evening did they eventually reach the top. Exhausted, with temperatures plummeting, and only an hour left before the sun went down, "Fish" and "Wall" were able to work their way down 1,000 feet to their camping spot for the evening. It felt good to be safe and relatively warm again in their sleeping bags that evening despite being camped next to the completely frozen Lake Marjorie that was at 11,160 feet. The next day was Mather Pass (elevation 12,100 feet). For the second time in the same week, "Fish" and "Wall" were in denial about where the actual trail crossed over the mountain. Once again, after much speculations and debate, footsteps of previous hikers were spotted and confirmed that went vertically, straight up a wall of snow and ice that was directly 1,000 feet above where we stood. Because of the steepness and the hard snow and ice conditions over this part of the trail, previous hikers had graciously taken the time to cut steps which would by pass the numerous switchbacks and get us to the top in a more direct manner. The only problem was that any mistake by a hiker climbing these steps would result in a at least a 1,000 foot fall; regardless if they had their ice ax to slow them down or not. Needless to say, it was a relief to make it over the pass and down the other side safely to camp. In fact, "Fish" and "Wall" slept at a mere 8,750 feet that night which was the first time this week that they were able to sleep under 10,000 feet. The added temperatures and additional oxygen made for some of the best sleeping conditions of the week. After a good night's rest, they embarked on their last 12,000-foot pass, Muir Pass (elevation 11,955 feet). The ascent was relatively easy, as snow conditions remained firm as we made our way up the bowl to the Muir Shelter. With rising temperatures and softening snow conditions, much of the afternoon was spent trying to get off the mountain. "Fish" had an exceptionally difficult time with post-holing on the north side of the pass. He found himself belly-deep in snow with almost every other step. With much persistency, and a quickly fading sense of humor, "Fish" and "Wall" were soon back on the trail and moving north. The end of the day held a final challenge for the day as hikers had to ford their widest and fastest river of the trip thus far. In ice-chilling rapids, both "Fish" and "Wall" arrived fatigued, cold, and wet on the opposite bank of Evolution Creek. This seemed to be a good time to dry out their clothes and eat dinner before doing their post dinner push up the trail. Only later, when we hiked 100 yards downstream did we see the possible consequences had either one of them slipped on their previous fording. The trail proceeded to follow alongside the river and down several hundred foot long cascades. With dried out socks, sneakers, and shorts and a belly full of food, it felt good to be finished with a very challenging day's hike.
After six long arduous, adventurous, exciting, and harrowing days with breath-taking (literately) scenery, we found ourselves still one day away from our next resupply and one day short on food. We retired that evening shy of where we had hoped to be when we left Kennedy Meadows six days earlier. Between our next resupply, and us Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR) remained 22 more miles, including one more mountain pass, Seldon Pass (elevation 10,900 feet) and a few more challenging river fords. Despite the lack of food and energy, we pushed a quick pace all day and arrived at the shores of Lake Edison. It was exciting to be an hour early for the 4:45 pm ferry ride down the lake to our first hot meal in two weeks, a cold beer, and an expensive night's stay in a motel room. In fact, the room looked more like it should have been charging by the hour rather than by the night.
Fish (Out of Water) decided to end his hike here at VVR for several reasons. Mainly, because of a few physical injuries and difficulties with his asthma during the week, he decided not to try to like the remaining 64 miles to Toulemne Meadows that he initially had planned. It turned out to be the best decision for both he and "Wall". A day behind his schedule, "Wall" was determined to get through the final few Sierra Passes and get back on pace. Additionally, "Fish" discovered that his sore ankle that he had twisted back on Muir Pass while post-holing a few days earlier was now the size of a softball. Fortunately for "Fish", he was able to catch a ride off the mountain with the wife, Pat, of "The Happy Trails Couple", who was driving north to follow her husband, Walt, who was thru hiking north to the border. By the end of the week, "Fish" and "Wall" had covered an additional 158 miles; bringing their total mileage together over the past two weeks up to 320 miles, approximately 24.5 miles per day average. It also put "Wall" at mile mark 871, which is approximately 1/3 of the entire PCT Trail and gave him an average of 24.8 miles per day for the last 35 days since leaving Mexico. The following morning, after a couple of great feasts, "Wall" pushed north by himself, leaving "Fish (Out of Water)" and approximately 20 more thru-hikers at VVR. With only 3 or 4 hikers still ahead of "Wall" an a few especially dangerous river fords, and the last two remaining Sierra Passes, it was with much apprehension that "Wall" took the ferry back to the trailhead to continue his dream of completing the PCT, and pursue his dream. "Fish" took the boat ride with him that morning to help send him off. For "Fish" and "Wall", it was a great 13 days on the trail together. They got to visit and relive many great moments in their lives (including their '95 AT thru-hike together). In the course of two weeks they got to laugh quite a bit, cry, belch, fart, and sing themselves up the trail. Before the boat pulled away, they gave each other a final embrace and reminded each other how proud they were of each other's accomplishments. As "Wall" remarked, "Not too bad for a couple of Riverside (RI) kids."