May 15, 1804

About ten miles were made this day to a point called Piper's landing where they reported the water to be very rapid and the banks falling in. They found that their boat was too heavily laden in the stern as they ran on logs three times this day. The greatest weight was shifted to the bow of the boat.

St. Charles in 1804.

May 16, 1804

The party set sail at 5 AM and after covering a few miles passed a large coal hill on the north side. At 2 PM they arrived at St. Charles and remained to wait for Captain Lewis. St. Charles was described as a small town, about 21 miles from the mouth of the Missouri with one principal street about one mile in length, running parallel with the river, dividing the town which was composed of nearly 100 small wooden houses besides a chapel. The inhabitants, about 450 in number, were chiefly descendants from the French of Canada. Their chief occupation was hunting and trading with the Indians.

May 17, 1804

A fair day compelled to punish for misconduct, several Kickapoos Indians visited me today and George Drewyer arrived. Measured the river and found it to be 720 yards wide, a Keel Boat came up today. Several of the inhabitants came aboard today, reseved several species of vegetables from the inhabitants today.

May 18, 1804

A fine morning, I had the loading in the Boat & pirogue examined and changed so as the Bow of each may be heavier loded than the Stern, M. Lauremus who had been Sent by Cap. Lewis to the Kickapoo Town on public business, return’d and after a short delay proceeded on to St Louis, I sent George Drewyer with a Letter to Cap. Lewis Two Keel Boats arrive from Kentucky to day loaded with whiskey, Hats etc. etc. the wind from the S.W.

May 19, 1804

A violent wind last night from the W.S.W. accompanied with rain which lasted about three hours. Cleared away this morning at 8 o clock, I took receipt for the pay of the men up to the 1st of December next, R Fields kill a deer today, I receive an invitation to a ball, it is not in my power to go. George Drewyer return from St. Louis and brought 99 Dollars, he lost a letter from Cap. Lewis to me, Seven ladies visit me today.

May 20, 1804

A cloudy morning. Rained and hard wind from the last night, The letter George lost yesterday found by a country man, I gave the party leave to go and hear a Sermon today delivered by Mr. [Blank Space] a Roman Catholick Priest.

At 3 o clock Cap. Lewis, Cap. Stoddard accompanied by the officers and several gentlemen of St. Louis arrived in a heavy shower of rain. Mess. Lutenants Minford & Worriss. Mr. Choteau, Grattiot, Deloney, Laberdee, Rankin. Dr. Sodrang rained the greater part of this evening, supped with Mr. Charles Tayon, the late Comdr. Of St. Charles a Spanish Ensign.

May 21, 1804

All the forepart of the day arranging our party and procuring the different articles necessary for them at this place. Dined with Mr. Ducett and set out at half passed three o Clock under three Cheers from the Gentlemen on the bank and proceeded on to the head of the Island (which is situated on the stbd. Side) Three miles soon after we set out to day a hard wind from the W.SW. accompanid with a hard rain, which lasted with short intervals all night, opposite our camp a small creek coms in on the lbd. Side.

The party being joined by Captain Lewis left St. Charles late May 21st, but were prevented from going more than about three miles by wind and rain.

May 22, 1804

About 18 miles were covered this day, passing several small farms on the banks of the river, a number of islands and a large creek called Bon Homme. They camped on the north side near a small creek where they met with a camp of Kickapoo Indians, with whom they had made arrangements at St. Charles for procuring provisions. The Indians made them a present of four deer and in return they gave the Indians two quarts of whiskey. The next clay, at two miles above the previous night’s camp, they passed the mouth of the Little Osage River, about 30 yards wide, and a settlement of 30 or 40 families from the United States. They made 9 miles the 23rd.

May 23, 1804

We set out realy ran on a log and detained one hour, proceeded the course of last night 2 miles to the mouth of a creek on the Stbd. Side called Osage Womans R, about 30 yds. Wide, opposite a large island and a American settlement. (on this creek 30 or 40 familys are settled, crossed to to the settlement and took in R & Jos Fields who had been sent to purchase corn & Butter etc. Many people came to see us, we passed a large cave on the Lbd. Side (called by the French the Tavern – about 120 feet wide, 40 feet deep and 20 feet high. Many different images are painted on the rock at this place the Indians and French pay omage. Many names are wrote on the rock, Stoped about one mile above for Cap. Lewis who had assended the Clifts which is at the said Cave 300 feet high, hanging over the waters, the water excessively swift today, We incamped below a small island in the middle of the river, sent out two hunters, one killed a deer.

May 24, 1804

Early this morning they ascended a very difficult rapid called Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets for a half mile against some projecting rocks on the south side. A second rapid of equal difficulty was encountered where the bank fell in so rapidly they had to cross to the opposite side between the north bank and a sand bar, which was constantly moving with the violence of the current. The boat stuck on it and would have upset immediately had not the men jumped overboard and held the boat until the sand washed from under her. They covered 10 miles this day. The next day the party passed Wood River on the south, several small creeks and camped just above the last establishment of Whites on the Missouri, consisting of seven small houses and as many poor families, who had fixed themselves there for the convenience of trade. Made 18 miles on the 26th.

May 25, 1804

Rain last night, river fall several inches, set out early. Passed several islands passed wood river on the Lbd. Side at 2 miles passed again the creek on the st. side called La Quevr at 5 miles passed a small creek (called R. La Poceau) at 8 miles, opse. An island on the lbd. Side, camped at the mouth of a creek called river a chouritee, [La Charrettee], above a Small French village of 7 houses and as many families, settled at this place to be convt. To hunt and trade with the Indians, here we met with M. Louisell, imedeately down from the Seeder Isld. Situated in the country of the Sciox 400 leagues up. He gave us a good Deel of information and some letter he informed us that he saw no Indians on the river below the Poncaras. Some hard rain this evening.

May 26, 1804

Set out at 7 o clock after a heavy Shour of rain (George Drewyer, & John Sheelds, sent by Land with the two horses with directions to proceed on one day & hunt the next)

May 27, 1804

Passed Otter Island nearly 10 miles in length, and narrow but high. Otter Creek emptied on the north side. Met two canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route from the Mohar (Omaha) nation more than 700 miles up the river. Also met one large raft from the Pawnees on the Platte River and three others from the Grand Osage River. Covered 15 miles and camped at the entrance of the Gasconade River, reckoned to be about 100 miles from the Mississippi. The next two days were spent camped, making celestial observations and hunting.

May 28, 1804

The wind favourable from the E.N.E. passed Beef Island and River on Lbd. Side at 3 ½ miles. [a large island called Buffaloe Island separated from the land by a small channel into which Buffaloe creek empties itself]. Passed a creek on the Lbd. Side called Shepperds Creek, passed Several Islands to day, great Deel of Deer Sign on the Bank, one man out hunting, W[e] camped on an Island on the Starboard Side [near the Southern extreme of Luter Island (La L’outre)]

May 29, 1804

Rained last night, Cloudy morning 4 hunters sent out with orders to return at 12 oClock. Had the Perogues loaded and all prepared to Set out at 4 oClock after finishing the observations & all things necessary found that one of the nunters had not returned, we determined to proceed on & leave one pirogue to wate for him, accordingly at half past four we set out and came on 4 miles & camped on the Lbd. Side above a small Creek called Deer Creek, Soon after we came too we heard several guns fire down the river, we answered them by a Discharge of a Swivell on the Bow.

May 30, 1804

Made about 14 miles and camped at the mouth of Grindstone Creek (Osage County). High wind and rain compelled them to remain camped the next day. In the afternoon a boat came down from the Grand Osage River, bringing a letter from a person sent to the Osage Nation on the Arkansas River, which mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana had been committed to the flames by the Indians who would not believe that the Americans were now the owners of that country.

May 31, 1804

Rained the greater part of last night, the wind from the West raised and blew with great force until 5 oClock p.m. which obliged us to lay by a cajaux of Bear Skins and pelteries came down from the Grand Osarge, one French man, one Indian, and a squaw, they had letters from the man Mr Choteau Sent to that part of the Osarge nation settled on Arkansas River mentioning that his letter was commited to the flaims, the inds. Not believeing that the Americans had possession of the Countrey they disregard’ed St. Louis & their supplies &c. Several rats of Considerable Size was Caught in the woods to day. Capt. Lewis went out to the woods & found many curious Plants & Srubs, one Deer killed this evening.

June 01, 1804

Covered 13 miles to the mouth of the Osage River, camped and made celestial observations the next day. Description of the Osage reads, 397 yards wide, the Missouri 875 yards wide and the junction 133 miles above the mouth.

June 02, 1804

Cap Lewis took the time & distance of Os & Moons nearest limbs, thesun East – and Meridean altitude of Suns U.L. with Octant, back bservation gave for altitude 37.

Errors of Octant 2. made Several other observations. I made an angle for the Wedth of the two rivers. The Missourie from the Point to the N. Side is 875 yards wide the Osage River from the point to the SE side is 397 yards Wide, the distance between the wtwo rivers at the pt. of high land (100 foot above the bottom) and 80 poles up the Missouris from the point is 40 poles, on the top of this high land under which is a limestone rock two mouns or graves are raised. From this pt. which comds(commands) both rivers I had a delightfull prospect of the Missouris up and down, also the Osage R. up.

George Drewyer & John Shields who we had sent with the horses by Land on the N. side joined us this evening much worsted, they being absent seven days depending on their ugn, the greater part of the time rain, they were obliged to raft or swim many Creeks, those men gave a flattering account of of the Counterey Commencing below the first hill on the N side and extend’g parrelal with the river for 30 or 40 miles. The two muddy rivers passing through & some fine Springs & Streems our hunters kill several Deer to day, Some Small licks on the SE of the Osage River.

June 03, 1804

Broke camp in the afternoon and covered 5 miles to Morean Creek, a little below what is now Jefferson City. Covered 17 1/2 miles June 4th.

June 04, 1804

A fair day. Three men out on the right flank passed a large Island on the St. Side called Seeder Island, this Island has a great Deel of Ceedar on it, passed a Small Creek at 1 mile 15 yd wide which we named Nightingale Creek from a Bird of that description which Sang for us all last night, and is the first of the Kind I ever heard. Passed the mouth of Seeder Creek at 7 Miles on the L. S. abt. 15 yds wide, Mast Creek, here the Serjt. At the helm run under a bending Tree & broke the Mast, some delightfull land, with a jentle assent about this Creek, well timbered, Oake, Ash, Walnut &c. &c. passed, wind NW by W passed a small creek called Zancare C on the LS: at this last point I got out and walked on the L.Sd thro a rush bottom for 1 mile & a short distance thro: Nettles as high as my brest assended a hill of about 170 foot to a place where the French report that Lead ore has been found, I saw no Mineral of that description. Cap Lewis camped immediately under this hill, to wate which mound of about 6 foot high, and about 100 acres of land which the large timber is Dead in Decending about 50 foot a projecting lime stone rock under Which is a Cave at one place in this projecting rocks I went on one which spured up and hung over the water from the top of this rock I had a prospect of the river for 20 or 30 miles up, from the Cave which incumpased the hill I decended by a Steep decent to the foot, a verry bad part of the river opposite this hill, the river continues to fall slowly, our hunters killed 7 deer to day. The land our hunters passed thro: to day on the S S was verry fine the latter part of to day.

June 05, 1804

At 11:00 AM met a raft of two canoes joined together in which two French traders were descending from 80 leagues (about 250 miles) up the Kansas River, where they had wintered and caught great quantities of beaver, but had lost much of their game by fires from the prairie. The traders informed the party that the Kansas Indians were hunting buffalo on the plains. The next day the party made 14 miles passing the Little Saline River and several islands.

June 06, 1804

Mended our Mast this morning & ste out at 7 o’clock under a jentle breese from SE by S passed the large Island, and a Creek Called Split rock Creek at 5 Miles on the SS psd. A place to the rock from which this Creek 20 yds. Wide takes its name, a projecting rock with a hole thro: a point of the rock, at 8 Miles passed the Mouth of a Creek Called Saline or Salt R. on the L. Sd. This River is about 30 yds wide, and has so many licks and salt springs on its banks that the water the Creek is Brackish, one verry large Lick is 9 miles up on the left side the water of the Spring in this Lick is STorng as one bshel of the Water is said to make 7 lb. of good Salt passed a large Island & several small ones, the water excessively Strong, so much so that we Camped Sooner than the usual time to waite for the pirogue, the banks are falling in very much to day river rose last night a foot.

June 07, 1804

Covered 14 miles, examined salt licks and springs of salt water, The hunters, who had previously been bringing in deer, brought in three bears this evening and reported indications of buffalo.

June 08, 1804

Passed a number of deer licks and the Mine (Lamine) River near what is now Booneville. Met a party of three hunters from the Sioux River who had been out for 12 months and had collected about $900 worth of furs. Camped on Mills Island. The next day the party covered 13 miles and passed Arrow Rock cliff where the Missouri was confined within a bed of 200 yards.

June 10, 1804

Passed Hurricane Creek and the two Chariton rivers. Camped on Stump (Harrison) Island. Head 6 winds forced them to remain there the next day, which was spent drying jerk. (Meat cut into long slices or strips and dried in the sun).

June 11, 1804

The NW wind blew hard & cold as this wind was immediately a head, we could not proceed we took the advantage of this Delay and Dried our wet articles, examined Provisions &c. &c.

June 12, 1804

At one o'clock two loaded rafts, one with fur, the other with buffalo tallow were met coming from the Sioux nations on their way to St. Louis. The party engaged one of the men; a Mr. Dorion who had lived with the Sioux more than 20 years, was high in their confidence and could speak their languages. Covered 9 miles. The next day they passed Round (leter Bowling Green) Bend creeks between which once stood the ancient village of the Missouris, no trace of it in 1804 except a feeble remnant of about 30 families. Five miles above this they camped at the mouth of Grand River.

June 13, 1804

We Set out early passed a round bend to the S.S. and two creeks called the round bend creeks between those two creeks and behind a small willow island in the bend is a prarie in which the Missouries Indians once lived and the spot where 300 [200] of them fell a scrifise to the fury of the Saukees, this nation (Missouries) once the most noumerous nation in this part of the continent now reduced to about 30 fes [fires, i.e., families-Ed.] and that fiew under the protection of the Otteaus [Ottoes] on R Platt who themselves are declining, passed some willow Isds. And bad Sand bars, Took Medn. Altitude with Octent back observation it gave for altd. On its Low L. 36 degrees 58’ 0” the E [Error] Enstrement 2 degrees 00’ – 00” +. The Hills or high land for several days past or above the 2 Charletons does not exceed 100 foot, passed a Batteau on Sand rolling where the Boat was nearly turning over by her Strikeing and turning on the Sand. We came too in the mouth of Grand River on S. S. and camped for the night, this river is from 80 to 100 yards wide at its mouth and navagable for pirogues a great distance, this river heads with the R. Dumoine, below its mouth is a butifull plain of bottom land, the hills rise at ½ a mile back, the lands about this place is either plain or over flrown bottom. Capt Lewis and myself walked to the hill, from the top of which we had a butifull prospect of Serounding countrey, in the open prarie we caught a raccoon, our hunter brought in a bear and deer, we took some Lunar observations this evening.

June 14, 1804

The current was so rapid and the north banks were falling in constantly forcing them to take the south side near the sand bars, which were moving continually, making the worst passage encountered. Met a trading raft from the Pawnee nation on the Platte and unsuccessfully attempted to engage one of their party to return with them. Passed Snake Bluffs and Snake (Miami) creek. One of the party's hunters, a half Indian, brought in an account of his having passed a small lake, near which a number of deer were feeding, and in the pond he heard a snake making a gutteral noise like a turkey. He fired his gun but the noise became louder. He added that he had heard the Indians mention this species of snake. This story was confirmed by a Frenchman in the party. (As far as can be ascertained no ancestors of Heckmann were in the exploring party).

June 15, 1804

Due to the strong current, from the high stage of the river and rolling sand bars, they were unable to stem it with the oars and sails and by going nearer the high banks that were falling in the towing, the party made 14 miles.

June 16, 1804

Early this morning the party joined the camp of their hunters who provided two deer and two bear. On the lookout for suitable timber to make oars. Mosquitoes and ticks became exceedingly troublesome.

June 17, 1804

After covering one mile suitable timber was found for making oars. This day and the next was occupied in that way. The hunters brought in a bear and a fat horse which was probably lost by some war party, this point being a crossing place for the Sacs, Ayauways (Iowas) and Sioux in their excursions against the Osages. (Near Malta Bend a body of water later existed called Grand Pass Lake).

June 18, 1804

Some Rain last night, and some hard showers this morning which delay our work verry much, send out six hunters in the prarie on the L.S. they kill 5 deer and coht [caught] a Bear, which verry large and fat, the party to wok at the oars, make rope, and jurk their meat all Day. Dry our wet sales &c. in the evening, The Musquiters verry bad.

June 19, 1804

Covered 32 miles passing numerous sand bars, snags and in several spots had to tow the boat. Issued mosquito nets the 19th.

June 20, 1804

Covered 32 miles passing numerous sand bars, snags and in several spots had to tow the boat. Issued mosquito nets the 19th.

June 21, 1804

Covered 32 miles passing numerous sand bars, snags and in several spots had to tow the boat. Issued mosquito nets the 19th.

June 22, 1804

River rose 4 inches during the night making the water very rapid with the added hazard of the river being full of concealed snags. Temperature 87° at 3 PM. Covered 10 1/2 miles to camp at the entrance of Fire Creek (near what is now Napoleon, Mo.) Due to high wind the party only made 31/2 miles the next day.

June 23, 1804

Some wind this morning from the N.W. we set out at 7 oClock, and proceeded on to the head of a Island on the S.S. the wind blew hard and down the river which prevented the P’ty moveing [proceeding] from this Island the whole day, Capt. Lewis had the arms examined &c. at the lower end of this Island I got out of the boat to walk on Shore, & expected the party on Shore would overtake me, at the head of the Island, they did not & I proceeded on rounde a round and extensive bend in the river, I killed a deer & made a fire, expecting the boat would come up in the evening. The wind continueing to blow prevented their moveing, as the distance by land was too great for me to return by night I concluded to Camp, Peeled some bark to lay on, and geathered wood to make fires to keep off the musquitrs & knat, Heard the party on Shore fire, at Dark Drewyer came to me with the horses, one fat bear & a Deer, river fell 8 Inches last night.

June 24, 1804

At 8 miles passed Hay Cabil (Little Blue) Creek to the north of which are some rocks projecting into the river. Halted at noon to prepared more jerk after covering 111/2 miles. The next day they passed La Charbonniere (Rush) and Labenite (Mill) Creeks. Reported hills 160 to 180 feet high on the south side. Covered 13 miles.

See Buffalo at Kansas City.

June 25, 1804

A thick fog detained us until 8 o clock, passed a Island, at 3 miles passed a coal-mine, or bank of stone coal, on the South Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity of fine coal, the river being high, prevented our seeing that contained in the cliffs of the best quality, a small creek mouths below this bank call’d after the bank Chaboncaea [Charbon] Creek. The wind from the N.W. passed a small creek on the L. side at 12 o Clock, called Bennet’s creek. The prairies come within a Short distance of the river on each side which ties of wild apples, great numbs. Of deer are seen feeding on the young willows and earbage in the banks and on the sand bars in the river, our party on shore did not join in this evening. We camped on an Island situated on the S. side opposit some hills higher than common, say 160 or 180 feet above the bottom. The river is still falling last night it fell 8 inches.

June 26, 1804

At one mile passed Blue Water (Big Blue) Creek, where the Missouri was confined within a narrow bed with a strong current and whirls on one side. Tow rope broke twice and they had to row with great exertion. Saw a number of parakeets and killed some deer. At 9 1/2 miles camped at upper point of the mouth of the Kansas River. The party remained here two days making observations and repairing the boat. The Missouri was reported to be 500 yards wide. The water of the Kansas had a very disagreeable taste.

The party's hunters saw buffalo for the first time near here. Broke camp and set out in the afternoon of June 29th, passed a sand bar near which the boat was almost lost. Covered 7 1/4 miles.

June 27, 1804

A fair warm morning, the river rose a little last night, we determine to delay at this Place three or four days to make observations & recruit the party, Several men out Hunting, onloaded our Perogue, and turned her up to Dry with a view of repairing her after completing a Strong redoubt or brest work from one river to the other, of logs & bushes six feet high, the Country about the mout of this river is very fine on each Side as well as North of the Missourie the bottom, in the Point is low & overflows for 250 yards. It rises a little above high water mark and continues of that hight of good quality back to the hills. A high Clift, on the upper Side of the Kanses ½ a mile up. Below the Kanses the hilles is aobut 1 ½ Miles from the point on the North Side of the Missourie the Hils or high lands is Several Miles back, we compared the intrumts.

June 28, 1804

To Describe the most probable of the various accounts of this great river of the Kansas, would be too lengthy & uncertain to insert here, it heads with the river Del Noird in the black Mountain or ridge which Divides the Waters of the Kansas Del Nord, & Callarado & [a word almost illegible; possibly “offshoots.” – ED.] from those of the Missourie (and not well assertaind.) This river receves its name froma villages one about 20 leagues & the other 40 Leagues up, by war with their neighbors, &c, they formerly lived on the South banks of the Missourie 24 Leagues above this river in a open & butifull plain, and were verry noumerous at the time the French first settled the Illiniois, I am told they are a fierce & warlike people, being badly Supplied with fire arms, become easily conquered by the Aiauway & Saukees who are better furnished with those materials of War, This Nation is now out in the Plains hunting the Baffalow our hunters killed Several Deer and Saw Buffalow, the high lands come to the river Kansas on the upper side at about a mile, full in view, and a butifull place for a fort, good landing-place, the waters of the Kansas is verry disagreeably tasted to me.

June 29, 1804

Ordered – A Court Martial will Set this day at 11 o’clock, to consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and Hugh Hall, Confined on Charges exhibited against them bySergeant Floyd, agreeable to the articles of War.

John Potts to act as Judge advocate. The Court Convened agreeable to order and proceeded to the trial of the Prisoners Viz. John Collins charged “with getting drunk on his post this Morning out of whiskey put under his charge as a Snetinal, and for Suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the Said Barrel intended for the party.” To this charge the prisoner plead not Guilty. The Court after mature deliberation on the evidence adduced are of opinion that the prisoner is Guilty of the Charge exhibited against him, and do therefore sentence him to receive one hundred Lashes on his bear Back. Hugh Hall was brought before the court charged with takeing whiskey out of a Keg this morning which whiskey was stored on the Bank (and under the Charge of the Guard) Contrary to all order, rule, or regulation.” To this Charge the prisoner “Pleaded Guilty.” The Court find the prisoner Guilty and Sentence him to receive fifty lashes on his bear Back. The Commanding Officers approve of the Sentence of the Court and orders that the Punishment take place at half past three this evening, at which time the party will Parrade for inspection.

June 30, 1804

At 5 miles reached the mouth of the Petite Platte (Little Platte) which they ascended a few miles reporting good lands and several falls well calculated for mills. Temperature 96° at 3 PM. Covered 11 miles this day.

July 01, 1804

Advanced 12 miles, passed numerous sand bars and noted large quantities of deer, turkeys and pecan trees.

July 02, 1804

For a half an hour the river was covered with driftwood which rendered navigation dangerous. They reasoned that the driftwood was caused by the giving away of some sand bar. Passed Park Creek and 5 miles farther passed Turkey Creek where they could scarcely stem the current with twenty oars and all the poles they had. About 2 miles farther came upon a large island (just above Leavenworth) where they stopped and replaced a mast which had been broken three days before, by running against a tree overhanging the river. Proceeded to upper end of island and stopped for the night, having covered 11 1/2 miles, Opposite their camp was a valley in which was situated an old Kansas village between two high points of land. About a mile in rear of the village were the remains of a small fort built by the French, recognized by the chimneys and the general outline of the fortification. The Party who were stationed here had probably been cut off by the Indians as there were no accounts of them.

July 03, 1804

Passed a large island called Isle des Vaches or Cow. At the bead of this island, on the north shore, was a large pond containing beaver. (Approximate location of the present Bean Lake).

July 04, 1804

The morning was announced by the discharge of their gun. At one mile passed the mouth of a creek coming from a large lake on the north side (Sugar Lake) which appeared to have once been the bed of the river to which it runs parallel for several miles. One of the men was bitten by a snake but a poultice of bark and gunpowder was sufficient to cure the wound. After 15 miles they came to a creek which they named Independence in honor of the day. (Independence Creek is about 2 miles above Atchison). The only further celebration was an evening gun and an additional gill of whiskey to the men. (Having assumed that the Missouri ran in a northwesterly direction, mention of the banks of the river were always defined as the north or south bank).

July 05, 1804

Passed several bad sand bars. On the shores were great quantities of grapes, berries and wild roses. Deer were not so abundant but elk tracks were numerous. Camped at 10 miles' distance on the south side under a high bank.

July 06, 1804

At 4 miles passed a prairie to the north called Reevey's after a man who was killed there. Four miles farther passed a bar of light sand intermixed with small pebbles of pit coal. The men perspired profusely, assumed to be caused from the muddiness of the water or the extreme heat. Camped on the south bank having covered 12 miles. A bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.

July 07, 1804

Covered 14 miles, were required to tow the boat with ropes due to the swift water. Another of the men had a stroke of the sun, he was bled and given a preparation of Niter which relieved him considerably.

July 08, 1804

Passed a small creek on the north and named it Ordway's after the sergeant. On the same side were three small islands, one named Little Nodawa and another extending more than 5 miles, containing 7,000 or 8,000 acres, called the Great Nodawa. Near the western extremity of this island they passed the Nodawa River about 70 yards wide above the mouth, though not so wide at the mouth as the mud from the Missouri contracts its channel. At 12 3/4 miles camped at the head of Nodawa island. Five of the men were sick with violent headaches.

July 09, 1804

At 8 miles passed a few cabins where one of the party had camped a few years before with a party of Frenchmen. Passed some cliffs on the south side near the mouth of the Wolf River, Covered 14 miles.

July 10, 1804

At 4 miles passed Pape's (Cedar) creek named after a Spainard of that name who killed himself there. Two miles farther they dined on an island called Solomon's. Stopped for the night after 10 miles, opposite a cliff of yellow clay. Reported a great many goslings along the bank.

July 11, 1804

At 3 miles came to a willow island on the north side, behind which entered a creek called, by the Indians, Tarkio (Little). Three miles above the Little Tarkio they camped on a large island on the north immediately opposite the Nemahaw (Big) River. Remained camped all the next day. Captain Clark ascended the Nemehaw about 2 miles in the periogue, reported several artificial mounds or graves indicating to them the former population of this country, the mounds certainly being intended as tombs. Saw choke-cherries this day for the first time. About 1/4 mile below the mouth of the Nemehaw a cliff of free stone was observed with various inscriptions and marks made by Indians.

July 12, 1804

Concluded to Delay here to day with a view of takeing equal altitudes & making observations as well as refreshing our men who are much fatigued. After an early brackfast I with five men in a Perogue assended the River Ne-Ma-Haw about three [2] Miles to the mouth of a small creek on the Lower side, here I got out of the Perogue, after going to several small mounds in a leavel plain, I assended a hill on the Lower Side, on this hill several artificial mounds were raised, from the top of the highest of those mounds I had an extensive view of the serounding plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospect I ever beheld, under me a Butifull River of clear water of about 80 yards wide meandereing thro: a leavel and extensive meadow, as far as I could see, the prospect much enlivened by the fiew Trees & Srubs which is bordering the bank of the river, and the Creeks & runs falling into it, and appears as leavel as a smoth surfice, the 2d bottom [the upper land] is also covered with grass and rich weeds & flours, interspersed with copses of the Osage Plumb, on the riseing lands, Small groves of trees are seen, with a numbers of grapes and a wild cherry resembling the common Wild Cherry, only larger and grows on a small bush. On the tops of those hills in every direction, I observed artifical mounds (or as I may more justly term graves) which to me is a strong evidence [indication] of this Country being once thickly settled. (The Indians of the Missouris Still keep up the custom of burying their dead on high ground) after a ramble of anbout two miles about I returned to the pirogue and decended down the river, gathd. Som grapes nearly ripe, on a sandstone bluff about ¼ of a mile from it’s mouth on the Lower Side I observed some Indian Marks, went to the rock which jucted over the water and marked my name & the day of the month and year. This river heads near one of the (see note) villages of the Pania [Pawnee] on the River Blue [Blue River], a branch of the Kansas River. Above this river about half a mile the prairie comes to the Missouri, after my return to Camp on the Island

July 13, 1804

At 2 miles passed the entrance of the Big Tarkio. They reported that the Missouri channel formerly ran into this river and formed an island called St. Joseph's but the channel was then filled up and the island added to the north shore. Made 20 1/2 miles.

July 14, 1804

Had some hard showers of rain before 7 o'clock, when they set out. When they reached the head end of a sand island they noticed the opposite banks falling in and so lined with timber that it was too dangerous to approach. A sudden squall from the northeast struck the boat on the starboard quarter and would have dashed her to pieces had not the party leaped overboard and with the aid of anchor and rope, kept her off the island. The waves dashed over the boat for about 40 minutes, after which the river became almost instantaneously calm and smooth. The two periogues were ahead in a similar situation, but fortunately no damage was done. At 3 miles passed a small factory (trading post) where a merchant from St. Louis traded with the Otoes and Pawnees two years previous. At about 8 miles passed a river called Nishnabotna by the Maha (Omaha) Indians and being 50 yards wide at the mouth. Camp was made a little above the Nishnabotna having covered 9 miles.

July 15, 1804

At 7 miles passed the Little Nemaha about 50 yards wide a little above its mouth, but contracting at its confluence as did all waters emptying into the Missouri. At 9 1/4 miles camped on a woody point on the south.

July 16, 1804

At 6 miles passed a large island called Fair Sun (Probably Sonora Bend) above which was a spot where about 20 acres of hill on the south side had fallen into the river. At this point the river was about a mile wide, shallow and full of sawyers (snags). Near this was reported a cliff of sandstone for two miles much frequented by birds. At 20 miles passed Bald Island opposite which was a large prairie and they named it Baldpated Prairie. Camped 1/4 mile beyond this in a point of woods on the north side.

July 17, 1804

Remained in camp this day to make observations and correct the chronometer which ran down on Sunday, July 15th. Observation proved their chronometer slow by 6' 51.6'. Captain Lewis rode up the country and saw the Nishnabotna 10 or 12 miles from its mouth and not more than 300 yards from the Missouri a little above their camp. The common current of the Missouri was taken with the log - 50 fathoms in 40' (5.1 miles per hour) and at some places 20' (10.2 miles per hour).

July 18, 1804

At 13 1/2 miles they reached an island opposite which, on the south bank, the hills project over the river and form high cliffs. At one point a part of the cliff, nearly 3/4 of a mile in length, had fallen into the river. The cliff was composed chiefly of sandstone intermixed with poor quality iron ore. Passed several bad sandbars in the course of the day covered 18 miles and camped on the south opposite the lower point of the Oven islands. (A little below what is now Nebraska City). An Indian dog came to the bank apparently lost and nearly starved. They fed the dog and unsuccessfully tried to get him to follow.

July 19, 1804

At 4 1/2 miles reached high cliffs of yellow earth on the south, near which they found what was reported as two 'beautiful runs of water', one of them with a deer lick about 200 yards from its mouth. At 2 1/2 miles above the runs, a large portion of the hills, about 3/4 of a mile, had fallen into the river. The sand bars are more numerous, and the rolling sands more frequent and dangerous than any they had seen, these obstacles increasing as they approach the Platte. Camped on the western extremity of an island called Willow at 10 3/4 miles. One of the hunters brought in calamus (flag, its aromatic roots used as a carminative and stimulant tonic) which he had gathered opposite their camp.

July 20, 1804

At 3 miles passed a creek on the south about 25 yards wide called by the French L'Eau qui Pleure (Weeping Water). Thence 2 1/2 miles to another island; 3 miles to another and 6 miles beyond another (Keg Island - disappeared in the spring of 1938 - 134 years later - by the cutting of a 6000' canal through it) at the head of which they camped on the south shore, having covered 18 miles. A large yellow wolf was killed. For a month the party had been troubled with boils and occasional dysentery. These large tumors became too painful to permit the men to work, After several days they disappeared without any assistance except a poultice of elm bark. This disorder was ascribed to the muddiness of the water, but not affecting the general health of the party, which was reported as good, if not better, than that of the same number of men in any other situation.

July 21, 1804

At 10 miles passed a willow island near highlands, covered with timber at the bank, and formed of limestone. On the opposite side was a bad sand bar, and the land near it was cut through during high water by small channels forming a number of islands. At 7 PM; after covering 14 miles in the rain the party reached the great river Platte. The highlands which they had seen on the south for the last 8 or 10 miles stopped abruptly. Captains Lewis and Clark ascended the Platte for about one mile, reported the current very rapid and divided into a number of channels, none of which were deeper than 5 or 6 feet. One of the Frenchmen, who had spent two winters on it, said its depth was generally not more than 5 or 6 feet, with many islands, cannot be navigated by boats or periogues, though the Indians pass it in small flat canoes made of hides. They estimated the Platte River to be 600 yards wide at its mouth and about that many miles from St. Louis (1891 mileage-638.4). All those who had not passed the Platte before were required to be shaved unless they could compromise with a treat. Much merriment was indulged on the occasion.

July 22, 1804

The party set sail from the mouth of the Platte and at 3 miles passed the mouth of Butterfly (Papillion) creek about 18 yards wide; at 9 miles passed Mosquito creek. Having found at 10 miles a high and shaded situation on the north (Iowa) side of the river, they camped intending to make observations and to send for neighboring Indian tribes for the purpose of making known the recent change in government and the wish of the United States to cultivate their friendship. The country below their camp was described as being a plain about 5 miles wide, one-half covered with timber, the other dry and elevated. The low land near the junction of the tow rivers was rich but subject to frequent overflow. Opposite their camp the first hills approach the river above the Platte (Bellevue, Nebraska).

July 23, 1804

A fair morning. Set a party to look for timber for Ores, two parties to hunt, at 11 o’clock Sent off George Drewyer & Peter Crousett with some tobacco to invite the Otteaus if at their town and Panies if they saw them, to come and talk with us at our Camp &c. &c. (at this Season the Indians on this river are in the Praries hunting the Buffalow, but from some signs of hunters, near this place & the Plains being on fire near their towns induce a belief that they this nation have returned to get some Green Corn or roasting Ears) raised a flag Staff Sund and Dryed our provisions &c. I commence Coppying a Map of the river below to Send to the P. [President-ED] US. Five deer killed to day one man with a tumer on his breast, Prepared our Camp the ment put their arms in order. Wind hard this afternoon from the NW.

July 24, 1804

A fair day the wind blows hard from the South, the Breezes which are verry frequent in this part of the Missouri is cool and refreshing. Several hunters out to day, but as the game of all kinds are Scerce. Only two Deer were brought in. I am much engaged drawing off a map, Captain Lewis also much engaged in prepareing Papers to Send back by a pirogue – which we intended to Send back from the river Platt.

This evening Guthrege Cought a White Catfish, its eyes Small & tale much like that of a Dolfin.

July 25, 1804

A fair morning. Several hunters out to day, at 2 o’clock. Drewyer & Peter returned from the Otteau village, and informs that no Indians were at their towns, they saw Some fresh Signs of a Small party. But could not find them. In their rout to theTowns (which is about 18 miles West) they passed thro a open Prarie crossed Papillion or Butterfly Creek and a Small butifull river which run into the Plate a little below the Town called Corne de charf [corne de Cerf] or Elk horn river this river is about 100 yards wide with Clear water & a gravely channel. Wind from the SE two Deer killed to day. 1 Turkey Several Grous Seen to day.

July 26, 1804

The wind Blustering and hard from the South all day which blowed the clouds of Sand in Such a manner that I could not complete my pan [plan] in the tent, the Boat roled in Such a manner that I could do nothing in that, & was Compessed [compelled] to go to the woods and combat with the Musquetors, I opened the Tumer of a man on the left breast, which discharged half a point [pint].

Five Beaver cough[t] near the Camp the flesh of which we made use of. This evening we found verry pleasant. Only one Deer killed to day. The countrey back from Campon the SS is a bottom of about five mile wide, one half the distance wood & the bals. Plain high & Dry. The opposite Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundation Covd. With timber, back & below is a Plain.

Bivouac Five Days. The party remained at this camp until July 27, dried provisions, made oars, prepared dispatches and maps for the President, to whom they intended to send by periogue from this point. George Drewyer and Peter Cruzatte were dispatched to the Ottoe or Pawnee villages with a present of tobacco and an invitation to the chiefs to visit the camp; they returned after 2 days absence having crossed the river, traversed an open prairie north of the Platte, then to the Elkhorn River which emptied into the Platte a little below the Ottoe village. The village, about 45 miles from Lewis & Clark's camp, was deserted. The Indians were on the prairies hunting buffalo although they found fresh tracks about the village.

July 27, 1804

The party set sail at noon, saw 2 horses swim to the southern shore, at 31/2 miles passed an island formed by a spring fed pond. Three miles farther they passed a large sand island in the middle of the river, the land on the south (Nebraska) side was high and covered with timber. At 10 1/2 miles saw and examined a curious collection of graves or mounds on the south side of the river. After covering 15 miles they camped on the south side on a high prairie near cottonwood groves (Approx. the present location of Carter Lake).

July 28, 1804

At 1 mile reached a bluff on the north (north Council Bluffs, Iowa) being the first highlands which approach the river on that side since they left the Nodawa River. A little below the bluff was where the Ayauway (Iowa) Indians lived before emigrating to the Des Moines river. Made 10 3/4 miles and camped on the north bank. One of the hunters brought in a Missouri Indian whom he had found with two others dressing an elk. They were perfectly friendly, gave him some of the meat and one of them agreed to accompany him to the boat. The Indian belonged to a small Party whose camp was 4 miles from the river, the body of the nation being engaged in a buffalo hunt on the plains. The next morning one of the party returned with the warrior to invite the Indians to meet them. The expedition proceeded upstream and at 2 miles passed Boyer's creek 25 yards wide; above this they observed traces of a great hurricane which had torn up large trees, some of which, perfectly sound, and 4 feet in diameter were snapped off near the ground. Made 10 miles this day. The Missouri was becoming more crooked since they passed the Platte and generally not so rapid.

July 29, 1804

At 1 mile reached a bluff on the north (north Council Bluffs, Iowa) being the first highlands which approach the river on that side since they left the Nodawa River. A little below the bluff was where the Ayauway (Iowa) Indians lived before emigrating to the Des Moines river. Made 10 3/4 miles and camped on the north bank. One of the hunters brought in a Missouri Indian whom he had found with two others dressing an elk. They were perfectly friendly, gave him some of the meat and one of them agreed to accompany him to the boat. The Indian belonged to a small Party whose camp was 4 miles from the river, the body of the nation being engaged in a buffalo hunt on the plains. The next morning one of the party returned with the warrior to invite the Indians to meet them. The expedition proceeded upstream and at 2 miles passed Boyer's creek 25 yards wide; above this they observed traces of a great hurricane which had torn up large trees, some of which, perfectly sound, and 4 feet in diameter were snapped off near the ground. Made 10 miles this day. The Missouri was becoming more crooked since they passed the Platte and generally not so rapid.

July 30, 1804

The party went 3 1/4 miles and camped on the south (Ft. Calhoun) in order to wait for the Indians. The plain above the high water level was covered with grass 5 to 6 feet high. Back of this plain was a woody ridge about 70 feet above it, at the end of which they formed their camp. They awaited with much anxiety for the return of their messenger. After two days men were dispatched to their last camp but returned without having seen any indications of anyone having visited it. Two hunters came in about noon having killed 2 deer but lost the horses. One hunter with 2 of the party were sent in search of the horses, returning at dark without finding them. The expedition's apprehensions were relieved at sunset Aug. 2 when about 14 Ottoe & Missouri Indians and a Frenchman named Fairfong, who resided among them and acted as interpreter for the party, came into sight. Captains Lewis and Clark went out to meet the group and told them they would hold a council in the morning, in the meantime the party sent roasted meat, pork flour and meal to the Indians and they in return made them a present of watermelons. The party was informed that the messenger Liberte' had set out from the Indian village a day ahead of them but had not come into camp yet. They were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse or lost himself in the woods and would soon return. Liberte' was never seen again by the party.

August 01, 1804

A fair morning. Despatched two men after the horses lost yesterday, one man back to the place form which the Messinger was Sent for the Ottoes to see if any Indians was or had been there sence our deptr. He return’d and informed that no person had been there Sence we left it. The Prarie which is situated below our Camp is above the high water leavel and rich covered with Grass from 5 to 8 feet high interspersed with copse of Hazel, Plumbs, Currents (like those of the US) Rasberries & Grapes of Dift. Kinds. Also producing a variety of Plants and flowers not common in the United States, two Kind of honeysuckle one which grows o a kind of a Srub Common about Harrodsburgh in Kentucky the other are not so large or tall and bears a flour in clusters short and of a light Pink coour, the leaves differ from any of the other Kinds in as much as the Lieves are distinct & does not surround the stalk as all the other kind do.

One Elk and three Deer Killed to day also two Beever Cought.

The wind rose at 10 o’clock from the WEW and blew a steady and agreeable Breeze all Day.

The Musquitors very troublesome this evening in the bottom.

The Indians not yet arrived. We fear Something amiss with our messenger or them.

August 02, 1804

A verry pleasant Breeze from the SE. The Two men Drewyer & Colter returned with the horses loaded with Elk, those horses they found about 12 miles in a Southerly Derection from Camp.

The Countrey thro which they passed is similar to what we see from Camp. One Beaver & a foot [of Beaver aught in trap] Cought this morning.

At Sunset Mr. Fairfong (Ottoe interpreter resident with them) and a pt. of Otteau & Missourie Nation came to Camp, among those Indians 6 were Chiefs, (not the principal Chiefs) Capt. Lewis & myself met those Indians & informed them we were glad to see them, and would speak to them tomorrow, Sent them Some rosted meat, Pork flour & meal, in return they sent us Water millions. Every man on his Guard & ready for any thing.

Three fat Bucks killed this evening, the 4 qrs. Of one weighed 147 lbs.

August 03, 1804

This morning the Indians with their 6 chiefs were assembled under an awning formed with the mainsail. A speech was made announcing the change in Government, promise of protection and advice of future conduct. All six chiefs replied in order of their rank, expressing joy at the change and hoped they would recommend to their Great White Father that they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defense and asked for mediation between them and the Mahas (Omahas) with whom they were then at war. This was promised and an attempt was made to persuade some of the chiefs to accompany the party to the Maha nation, but they declined for fear of being killed. Presents of medals, flags, paint, garters, canister of powder, a bottle of whiskey, etc; appeared to make them perfectly satisfied. The gun was fired and astonished them greatly. The ceremonies completed, the party set sail in the afternoon and covered 5 miles to camp on the south side where they found the mosquitoes very troublesome.

August 04, 1804

Passed a trading house on the south where Cruzatte spent 2 years trading with the Mahas. One of the members by the name of Reed left the party under the pretense of recovering a knife he had dropped a short distance behind. Reported a great deal of pumice stone on the shore today.

August 05, 1804

Set out early and with the aid of the oars made 201/2 miles though the river was crowded with sand bars. Camped on the north side (Harrison County, Iowa). In the evening Captain Clark in pursuing some game found himself at a distance of 370 yards from the camp, at a point of the river whence they had come 12 miles. For a matter of record they deducted, from the many channels for the different states and the numerous changing sand bars, that the banks of the Missouri were constantly falling in and the river changing its bed.

August 06, 1804

Passed Soldier's River, covered 20 1/2 miles and camped on the north side. The next day having rowed 17 miles they camped on the north side and dispatched George Drewyer, R. Fields, Wm. Bratton and Labiche back after the deserter Reed with orders to take him dead or alive if seen and to go to the Indian village in quest of Liberte'. More presents were sent to the Indians requesting they join the party at the Maha village where a peace might be concluded between them.

August 07, 1804

Passed Soldier's River, covered 20 1/2 miles and camped on the north side. The next day having rowed 17 miles they camped on the north side and dispatched George Drewyer, R. Fields, Wm. Bratton and Labiche back after the deserter Reed with orders to take him dead or alive if seen and to go to the Indian village in quest of Liberte'. More presents were sent to the Indians requesting they join the party at the Maha village where a peace might be concluded between them.

August 08, 1804

At 2 miles came to a part of the river where there was concealed timber difficult to pass. At 6 miles passed a river called Stone by the Sioux Indians and by the French Petite Riviere des Sioux (Little Sioux), 80 yards wide. Two miles above the Little Sioux they passed a long island which they named Pelican from the numbers of that bird which were feeding on it. They shot a Pelican and out of curiosity they poured 5 gallons of water in his bag. The scarcity of snakes was remarked upon. Camped on the north having covered 16 miles.

August 09, 1804

At 7 1/2 miles reached a point of high land on the south shore. Camped at 17 1/2 miles on the north shore. The next day at 12 1/2 miles passed a cliff of yellow stone on the south, the first high land on the left since the Indian council-bluff. Covered 22 1/2 miles and camped on the north side (Monona County, Iowa).

August 10, 1804

At 7 1/2 miles reached a point of high land on the south shore. Camped at 17 1/2 miles on the north shore. The next day at 12 1/2 miles passed a cliff of yellow stone on the south, the first high land on the left since the Indian council-bluff. Covered 22 1/2 miles and camped on the north side (Monona County, Iowa).

August 11, 1804

At nearly 5 miles the party halted for the purpose of examining a spot where one of the great chiefs of the Mahas (Omahas) named Blackbird was buried. He died about 4 years previously (1800) from smallpox, along with about 400 of their nation. After covering 17 miles camp was made on the north side in a bend of the river (near what was later called Badger Lake).

August 12, 1804

A gentle breeze from the south carried them along about 10 miles where they stopped to take observations and send a man across to their place of observation the day before. He stepped 974 yards and the distance the party had come around was 18 3/4 miles. Four miles above this bend on the south a bluff began and continued several miles. The river was wider and shallower than usual and abounded in beaver. Camped on a sand island after covering 20 1/2 miles.

August 13, 1804

Between 10 & 11 miles passed a spot on the south where a Mr. MacKey had a trading establishment in 1795 and 1796 which he called Ft. Charles. At 14 miles reached a creek on the south (Omadi) on which the Mahas lived. At 17 1/1 miles formed a camp on the south side, from this place Sergeant Ordway and 4 men were dispatched to the Maha village with a flag and a present in order to induce the Mahas to come and hold a council with the party. After a very fatiguing walk of 5 miles, as they were forced to break their way through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above 10 feet high, they reached the location of the Maha village, once consisting of about 300 cabins but was burned about 4 years previous, soon after the smallpox had destroyed 400 men and a proportion of women and children. On a hill in rear of the village were the graves, to the south of which ran the fork of the creek which they crossed and followed passing a large pond between there and the Missouri, then recrossed the Maha creek to the camp having seen no tracks of Indians nor any sign of recent cultivation. The next morning large smoke was seen in the northeast and men were sent to examine the cause. They found that a small party of Indians had lately passed and left some trees burning.

August 14, 1804

A fine morning. Wind from the SE. The men Sent to the Mahar Town last evining has not returned we Conclude to send a Spye to Know the Cause of their delay, at abut 12 o’clock the Party returned and informed us that they Culd not find the Indians, nor any fresh Sign, those people have not returned from their Buffalow hunt. Those people having no houses no Corn or anything more than the graves of their ansesters to attach them to the old Village, Continue in purseute of the Buffalow longer than others who has greater attachments to their native village. The ravages of the Small Pox (which swept ff [about 4 years ago] 400 men & womin & children in peropotion) has reduced this nation nt exceeding 300 men and left them to the insults of their weaker neighbors, which before was glad to be on friendly turms with them. I am told when this fatal malady was among them they Carried their franzey to verry extroadinary length, not only burning their Village, but they put their wives & children to Death with a view of their all going together to some better Countrey. They burry their Dead on the top of high hills and rais Mounds on the top of them. The cause or way those people took the Small Pox is uncertain, the most Probable, from Some other nation by means of a warparty.

August 15, 1804

I went with ten men to a Creek Damed by the Beavers about half way to the Village, with Some small willows & bark we made a Drag and hauled up the Creek, and Cought 318 fish of different kind. IE Pike, Bass, Salmon, perch, red horse, small cat, and a kind of perch Called Silver fish, on the Ohio. I cought a srimp prosisely of Shape Size & flavour of those about N. Orleans & the lower part of the Mississippi in this Creek which is only the pass or Streight from Beaver Pond to another, is Crouded with large Musstles verry fat, Ducks, Plover of different kinds are on those Ponds as well as on the river. In my absence Capt Lewis Sent Mr. Durione the Souix interpreter & three men to examine a fire which threw up an emence Smoke from the Praries on the NE Side of the River and at no great distance from Camp. The Object of this party was to find some bands of Seouex which the intptr. thought was near the Smoke and get them tocome in. In the evening this Party returned and informed, that the fire arose from some trees which had been left burning by a small party of Seoux, who had passed by that place Several Days. The wind setting from that point, blew the moke from that point over our Camp. Our party all in health and Sperrits. The men sent to the Ottoes & in pursute of the Deserter Reed has not yet returned or joined our party.

August 16, 1804

The party still waiting for Indians. A group went up the Maha creek and made a drag (seine) from small willows and bark. The first drag brought 318 fish. The second close to 800 consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon trout, red-horse, buffalo, rock-fish, one flat-back, perch and catfish. In the evening of the 17th, one of the party sent to the Ottoes returned with information that the rest were coming with the deserter Reed. They had also caught Liberte' but by a trick he had made his escape. They were also bringing 3 of the chiefs in order to make peace with the Mahas. Not being able to locate the Mahas they set the surrounding prairie afire, being the customary signal made by traders to apprise the Indians of their arrival

August 17, 1804

A fine morning. The wind from the SE. I collected a grass much resembling Wheet in its grouth the grain like Rye, also Some resembling Rye & Barly. A kind of Timothey, the Seed of which branches from the main Stalk & is more like a flax Seed than that of Timothey.

At 6 o’clock this evening Labieche one of the Party sent to the Ottoes joined, and informed that the Party was behind with one of the Deserters MB Reed and the 3 principal Chiefs of the Nations. La Liberty they cought but he decived them and got away. The object of those Chiefs comeing forward is to make a peace with the Mahars thro: us. As the Mahars are not at home this great Object cannot be accomplished at this time. Set th ePraries on fire to bring the Mahras & Soues if any were near, this being the useal Signal.

A cool evening two Beaver cought to day.

August 18, 1804

In the afternoon the party arrived with the Indians, French interpreter and the deserter. After a repast, the party inquired into the origin of the war between the Ottoes and Mahas, to which they replied with great frankness. Two of the Indians had gone to the Mahas to steal horses but were detected and killed. They thought themselves bound to avenge their companions and eventually the whole nation was involved in the dispute. They were also in fear of a war with the Pawnees whose village they had entered earlier in the summer while they were hunting and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not make the party less desirous of negotiating peace for them. The trial of the deserter was proceeded, confessing that he 'Deserted & Stole a public Rifle, shot pouch, Powder & Ball' and requested he be dealt as favorable as they could under their oaths. He was sentenced to run the gauntlet 4 miles through the party, each man to have 9 switches, and for him not to be considered one of the party in the future. The evening was closed by a dance.

August 19, 1804

The chiefs and warriors were assembled at 10 o'clock with a reception of speech and advice given at Council Bluffs. Presents were distributed, exchanged a small medal formerly given to Big Horse for one the same size as given Little Thief, a small medal given to the third chief and a certificate or letter of acknowledgement to 5 warriors expressive of their good intentions. One of them, dissatisfied, returned the certificate, but the chief, being fearful of offense, begged that it be restored to him; this was declined and the Indians were rebuked severely for having in view mere traffic instead of peace with the neighbor. This displeased them at first, but they at length all requested that it should be given back to the warrior, who then came forward, made an apology, then the certificate was given to the chief to give to the most worthy, and he gave it to the same warrior whose name was Great Blue Eyes. The Council ended with a dram of rum to the Indians. The evening was spent exhibiting objects of curiosity. These people were almost naked having no covering except a breechcloth and a loose blanket or painted buffalo robe. They all begged for whiskey.

August 20, 1804

The Indians mounted their horses and left having received a canister of whiskey at parting. The party set sail and at about 13 miles came to a landing on the north side under some bluffs. Here they had the misfortune to lose one of the sergeants, Charles Floyd. (From Clark's journal) 'Sergeant Floyd is taken very bad all at once with a Biliose Chorlick, we attempt to relieve him without success as yet, he gets worse and we are much alarmed at his situation, all attention to him....Sergeant Floyd much weaker and no better..... as bad as he can be, no pulse, and nothing will stay a moment on his stomach or bowels.....Died with great deal of composure; before his death he said to me 'I am going away I want you to write me a letter'.....We buried him on the top of the bluff 1/2 mile below a small river to which we gave his name. He was buried with the Honors of War much lamented, a seeder post with the name Sergeant C. Floyd died here the 20th of August, 1804, was fixed at the head of his grave......This man at all times gave us proofs of his firmness and determined resolution to do service to his country, and honor to himself, after paying all the honour to our Deceased brother we camped in the mouth of Floyds River, about 20 yards wide, a beautiful evening.'

August 21, 1804

About 1 1/2 miles above Floyd's River began a range of 15 bluffs on the north which continued till near the mouth of the Great Sioux River about 110 yards wide and 3 miles beyond Floyd's River. Mr. Durion, the Sioux interpreter, informed the party that the Sioux was navigable upward of 200 miles to the falls. The wind blew from the south with such violence that it blew sand from the bars in such quantities as to make the channel invisible at any distance ahead. At 12 miles passed an abandoned Maha Village, camped at 24 3/4 miles.

August 22, 1804

At 3 miles, joined the men sent from the Maha Village with their lost horses (July 30). The river bent to the east within 3 or 4 miles of the Great Sioux River. Sailed most of the day and camped at 19 miles (near Elk Point, S. D.). Captain Lewis in proving the contents of substances in the cliff was considerably injured by the fumes and taste of cobalt and took strong medicine to relieve him of the effects. The appearances of these mineral substances enabled them to account for disorders of the stomach with which the party had been affected since passing the Sioux River. They had been in the habit of dipping water inadvertently, but after the presence of minerals was discovered in the bluffs, the men were ordered to agitate the water to disperse the scum and take water from some depth. The disorders ceased and the boils which had afflicted the men were not observed beyond this point. In order to replace Sergeant Floyd the men were permitted to name 3 persons; Gass, Bratton and Gibson. 'Ordered a vote for a sergeant to choose one of three - P. Gass had 19 votes.

August 23, 1804

Captain Clark and one of the men killed their first buffalo near their camp at 10 1/4 miles (Dixon Co., Nebr.) Two barrels of meat salted. Fired at 2 elk that swam the river, but missed. It rained that night and the next morning, at 2 1/4 miles, came to a bluff on the south of blue clay, 180 or 190 feet high. It appeared to have recently been on fire and the ground was so hot that they could not keep their hands on it at any depth. At 7 miles passed Whitestone (Vermilion) River. At 10 1/4 miles camped on the south and were much annoyed by the mosquitoes.

August 24, 1804

Some rain last night, a Continuation this morning, we Setout at the useal time and proceeded on the Course of last night, to the Commencement of a blue Clay Bluff of 180 or 190 feet high on the LS. Those Bluffs appear to have been latterly on fire, and a this time is too hot for a man to bear his hand in the earth at any Debth, Great appearance of Coal, an emence quantity of Cobalt or a Cristolised Substance which answers it description is on the face of the Bluff. Great quantities of a kind of berry resembling a current except double the Size and Grows on a bush like a Privey, and the Size of a Damsen delisiously flavoured and makes delitefull tarts, this froot is now ripe, I took my servent and a French boy and Walked on Shore, Killed Two Buck Elks and a fawn, and intersepted the Boat, and had al the Meat butchered and in by sun Set at which time it began to rain and rained hard, Cap Lewis & My self walk out & got verry wet, a Cloudy rainey night. In my absence the Boat Passed a Small River Called by the Indians White Stone River. This river is about 30 yards wide and runs thro: a lain or Prarie in its whole Course. In a notherley derection from the Mouth of this Creek in an emence Plain a high hill is situated, and appears of a Conic form, and by the different nations of Indians in this quarter is Supose to be the residence of Deavels. That they are in human form with remarkable large heads, and about 18 inches high, that they are very watchfull and are arm’d with Sharp arrows with which they can Kill at a great distance; they are Said to kill all persons who are So hardy as to attempt to approach the hill; they State that tradition informs them that many Indians have Suffered by those little people, and among others three Mahar Men fell a sacrefise to thr murceless fury not may Years Sence. So Much do th eMaha, Soues, Ottoes and other neighbouring nations believe this fable, that no Consideration is Suffecient to induce them to approach the hill.

August 25, 1804

Captains Lewis and Clark with 10 men dropped down to the mouth of the Whitestone River for the purpose of visiting a mound about 20 miles north and 9 miles west from the mouth. This mound was a great article of superstition as the Indians believed it the abode of little devils in the human form about 18' high with large heads, armed with sharp arrows, and always on the watch to kill those approaching their residence. No consideration could tempt an Indian to visit the hill (Clay Co., S.D., Section 14, Town. 93, range 52). The excessive heat and thirst forced them from the hill about one o'clock, but no signs of little devils. Upon reaching the camp of the night before, the prairies were set fire to warn the Sioux of their approach. Sergeant Pryor and the men had proceeded upstream in the afternoon, caught 19 catfish that would weigh close to 300 pounds. The party rejoined the boat the next morning before she set out and camped at 9 miles distance.

August 26, 1804

(Joined the Boat at 9 o’clock AM) after jurking the meat killed yesterday and preareing the Elk Skins for a Toe Roape, we Set out Leaveing Drewyer & Shannon to hunt the horses which was lost with directions to follow us keeping on the high lands.

Proceeded on passed a clift of White and Blue or Dark Earth of 2 miles in extent on the LS and camped on a Sand bar opposed the old village Called Pitite Arc. A Small Creek falls into the river 15 yards wide below the Village on the Same Side Ls this Vilage was built by a Indian Chief of the Maha nation by the name of Petite Arc (or little Bow) displeased with the Great Chief of that nation (Black Bird) Seperated with 200 men and built a village at this place after his eath the two Villages joined, apt Pat Gass a Sergeant vice Floyd Deceased.

Great qts. Of Grapes, Plumbs of three Kinds, 2 yellow and large on of which is long and a 3rd kind round & red all wel flavored, particularly the yellow sort.

The commanding officers have thought proper to appoint Patric Gass, a Sergeant in the corps of volunteers for North Western Discovery; he is therefore to be obeyed and respected accordingly.

Sergeant Gass is directed to take charge of the late Sergeant Floyd’s mess, and immediately to enter on the discharge of such other duties, as have by their previous orders been prescribed for the government of the Sergeants of this corps.

The commanding officers have every reason to hope from the previous faithfull services of Sergeant Gass, that this expression of their approbation will be still further confirmed by his vigilant attention in future to his duties as Sergeant. The Commanding officers are still further confirmed in the high opinion they had previously formed of the capacity, diligence and integrity of Sergeant Gass, from the wish expressed by a large majority of his comrades for his appointment as Sergeant.

August 27, 1804

After covering about 8 miles, the prairie was set fire to invite the Sioux, then at 12 1/2 miles camped at the mouth of a river called by the French Jacques (James) about 90 yards wide at the mouth. As they came to the mouth of the river, an Indian swam to the boat and as they landed were met by two others who informed them that a large body of Sioux were camped near. These two accompanied 3 of the men with an invitation to meet the party at a spot up the river. The third Indian remained with the party. At 14 miles they camped on a sand bar to the north (Near Yankton, S.D.).

August 28, 1804

Covered 8 1/2 miles to Calumet Bluff on the south where camp was formed to await the arrival of the Sioux. The Indian left to join his camp upon landing. One of the periogues ran upon a log in the river and was rendered unfit for service. The next day was spent repairing the periogue and other necessary occupations. At 4 o'clock Sergeant Pryor and his party arrived on the opposite side with 5 chiefs and 70 men and boys. A boat was sent for them and they joined the party, as did also Mr. Pierre Durion, son of the Party's interpreter, who happened to be trading with the Indians. He returned with Sergeant Pryor to the Indians with a present of tobacco, corn and few kettles, and told them that the Captains would speak to their chiefs in the morning.

Sergeant Pryor reported that on reaching their village 12 miles from the camp, he was met by a party with a buffalo robe on which they desired to carry their visitors-an honor which he declined, informing them that they were not the commanders of the boats. As a great mark of respect they were then presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook heartily and found it well flavored.

August 29, 1804

Some rain last night & this morning, Sent on Colter with Provisions in pursute of Shannon, had a Toe roap made of Elk Skin, I am much engaged riteing. At 4 o’clock PM Sergt. Pryor & Mr. Dorion with 5 Cheifs and about 70 men & boys arrived on the oposit Side. We sent over a pirogue & Mr. Dorrion & his Son who was tradeing with the Indians came over wth Serjt. Pryor, and informed us that the Chiefs were there we sent SErjt. Pryor & young Mr. Dorion with Som Tobacco, Cornand a few Kittles for them to Cook in, with directions to inform the Chiefs that we would Speek to them tomorrow.

Those Indians brought with them for their own use 2 Elk & 6 Deer which the young men Killed on the way from their Camp 12 Miles distant.

Serjt. Pryor informs me that when they came near the Indian Camp they were met by men with a Buffalow roabe to carry them, Mr. Dorion informed they were not the owners of the Boats & did not wish to be carried.” The Scioues Camps are handsom of a Conic form Cvered with Buffalow Roabs Painted different colours and all compact & handsomely arranged, Covered all round an open part in the Centre for the fire, with Buffalow roabs, each Lodg has a place for Cooking detached, the lodges contain from 10 to 15 persons. A Fat Dog was presented as a mark of their Great respect for the party of which they partook hartily and thought it god and well flavored.

The River Jacque is Deep & is navigable for Perogues a long distance up at the Mouth it is Shallow & narrow but above it is 80 or 90 yards Wide passing thro: rich Praries with but little timber. This river passes the Sioux River and heads with the St. Peters and a branch of Red river which falls into Lake Winepeck to the North.

August 30, 1804

The fog was so thick they could not see the Indian camp on the opposite side, but it cleared about 8 o'clock. A speech and presents were prepared, then they sent for the Chiefs and warriors who were received under a large oak tree near which the flag of the United States was flying. Captain Lewis delivered the speech with the usual advice and counsel, presents made, including a richly laced uniform coat of the United States Artillery with a cocked hat and red feather to the Chief and lesser presents to the inferior chiefs. The pipe of peace was smoked and the Chiefs retired to a bower formed by bushes by their young men, where they divided the presents, smoked, ate and held a council on the answer they were to make the next day.

August 31, 1804

After breakfast the chiefs met and sat down in a row, with pipes of peace highly ornamented, all pointed toward seats intended for Captains Lewis and Clark. When they were seated, the grand chief, Shake Hand, rose and spoke at some length, approving what Captain Lewis had said and promising to follow his advice. 'I see before me my Great Father's two sons. You see me and the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither powder, nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village have no clothes. I wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together and make peace between them; but it is better that I should do it than my Great Father's sons, for they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I went formerly 1 7 to the English and they gave me a medal and some clothes; when I went to the Spanish, they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it from my skin; but now you give a medal and clothes. But still we are poor-, and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our squaws.' When he sat down, White Crane arose. 'I have listened to what our father's words were yesterday, and I am today glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a young man and do not wish to take much; my fathers have made a chief; I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. What the old chief has declared I will confirm and do whatever he and you please; but I wish you would take pity on us for we are very poor.'

The same sentiments were repeated by 'Struck by the Pawnee' and 'Half Man.' The first of these titles was occasioned by some blow which the chief had received in battle from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second was explained by the interpreters to have its origin, probably in the modesty of the chief; who on being told of his exploits would say, 'I am no warrior, I am only half a man'.


The other chiefs spoke very little, and after they had finished, one of the warriors declared in a speech that he would support them. All these harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation, begging for pity on them to send them traders; they wanted powder and ball, and seemed anxious that the party should supply them with some of their Great Father's milk, the name by which they distinguished ardent spirits. The party prevailed on Mr. Durion to remain with his son and accompany as many Sioux chiefs as he could collect, down to the seat of Government. Mr. Durion's son was given a flag, some clothes and provisions with directions to bring about a peace between the surrounding tribes and to convey some of their chiefs to see the President. In the evening the Indians left, accompanied by the two Durions and camped on the opposite bank.

September 01, 1804

Fifteen miles were made to a place on the north side, at the lower point of a large island called Bon Homme or Good Man island. (Between Bon Homme Co., S.D., and Knox Co., Nebr., about mile 915). The hunters killed an elk and a beaver; catfish were reported in great abundance. The next day after covering 3 miles the party came to the lower part of what they thought was an ancient fortification on the south side. (Later expeditions determined this ancient fortification to be a natural formation - driftings of sand forming natural ridges.) Their report states that these are the first remains of the kind that they had the opportunity of examining. The French interpreters assured them that there were great numbers of them on the Platte, Kansas and James Rivers. The French interpreters were not the best ethnological experts in the world, but perhaps the highest authorities the expendition had.

September 02, 1804

Set out early and proceeded on passed the Island and Landed on the SS above under a Yellow Clay bluff of 110 feet high, rain and verry cold, G. Drewnyer R. Fields, Newman & howard Killed four fine Elk we had the meat all jurked and the Skins Dried to Cover the Perogue, on the Side of the Bluff I observed Bear Grass & Rhue, at sun Set the wind lulled and cleared up Cold, the high land on the LS is verry high, & uneaven, that on the SS from 80 to 120 foot & is leavel back but fiew Small Streams falling into the river.

I went out and made a Survey of the antient Works which is Situated in a level Plain about 3 Miles from the hills which are high.

September 03, 1804

At a distance of 10 miles reached Plum Creek coming in from the north. This creek had obtained its name from the number of that fruit in the neighborhood. Camped at 15 miles on the south. The river was wide and covered with sand bars. Beaver houses were observed in great numbers on the river, but none of the animals themselves. The next day at 7 1/2 miles came upon the river called the French La Rivere qui Court or Rapid River (Niobrara) 152 1 8 yards wide and 4 feet deep at the confluence. Captain Clark ascended the Niobrara 3 miles and reported it passed through a hilly country with poor soil; widened above its mouth and much divided by sands and islands which, joining the great rapidity of the current, made navigation very difficult, even for small boats; like the Platte, it throws out into the Missouri great quantities of sand, coarser than that of the Platte, forming sand bars and shores near its mouth. Camp was made just above the Niobrara on the south side in much timber, red cedar, honey locust, oak, arrow-wood, elm and coffee nut. Deer and geese were seen and shot a turkey and a duck.

September 04, 1804

A verry Cold Wind from the SSE. We set out early and proceeded on to the Mouth of a Small Creek in a bend to he LS called White lime, at 1.5 miles higher up passed a large Creek on the LS Called R. au Platte or White Paint between those two Creeks (the latter of which is abt. 30 yards wide) we passed under a Bluff of red Ceeder. I went up this river three Miles toa butifull Plain on the upper Side where the Panias once had a Village. This river widens above its mouth and is divided by sands and Islands, the Current vrery rapid, not navigable for evin Canoes without Great difcuelty owing to its Sands; the colour like that of the Plat is light, the heads of this river is not known. It coms into the Missourie from the SW by West, and I am told that its General Course some distance up is parrelel with the Missourie.

September 05, 1804

Two men who had been dispatched to the Ponca village on the river of the same name returned with information that they had found it, but as it was hunting season the town was so completely deserted that they had killed a buffalo in the village. Camped at four o'clock to replace the mast that had been lost with a new one of cedar, covered 12 miles, The next day they were obliged to use the tow line due to high wind and the rapidity of the current. Made 8 1/2 miles and camped on the north.

September 06, 1804

A storm this morning from the NW which lasted a few minits, we set out and proceeded on passed the head of the iland which is sperated from the LS by a narrow channel, a hard wind from the NW a very cold day. We camped on the SS at the upper point of some timber, sometime before night no timber being in reach.

I saw several goats on the hills on the SS also buffalo in great numbers.

September 07, 1804

The morning was very cold and at 5 1/2 miles camped at the foot of a round mountain 300 feet at the base, forming a cone at the top 70 feet or more above the surrounding highlands. They found a spot covered with small holes, the residence of a small animal called petit chien or little dog, (prairie dog) which sit erect near the mouth and make a whistling noise, but when alarmed take refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out, they poured into one of the holes five barrels of water without filling it, but the owner was dislodged and caught.

45 Foot Fish.

September 08, 1804

At 7 miles reached a house called the Pawnee house where a trader named Trudeau wintered in the years 1796 - '97. At 17 miles camped on an island. During the next two days 34 miles were covered. Reported seeing on a hill to the south the backbone of a fish 45 feet long in perfect state of petrifaction. Fragments were collected to be sent to Washington. Great numbers of buffalo, in herds of nearly 500 were seen on the plains to the south.

September 09, 1804

Set out at sunrise and proceeded on passed the head of the island on which we camped, passed three sand & willow islands, the sand bars so numerous, it is not worth mentioning them, the river shoal or shallow wind SE came too and camped on a sand bar on the LS Capt. Lewis went out to kill a buffalo. I walked on shore all this evening with a view to kill a goat or some Prarie dogs in the evening after the boat landed, I derected my servent york with me to kill a buffalo near the boat from a Numbr. Then scattered in the Plains. I saw at one view near the river at least 500 buffalo, those animals have been in view all day feeding in the plains on the LS every copse of timber appear to have Elk or Deer. D. killed 3 deer, I killed a buffalow Y. 2, R. Fields one.

September 10, 1804

A cloudy dark morning. Set out early, a gentle breeze from the SE passed two small Islands on the LS and one on the SS all in the first course at 10 ½ miles passed the lower point of an island covered with red ceeder situated in a bend on the LS this island is about 2 miles in length I feish, 45 feet long tapering to the tale, Some teeth and those joints we4re separated and all petrefied. Opposite this island 1 ½ miles from the river on the LS is a large salt spring of remarkable salt water. One other high up the hill ½ Mile not above Cedar Island passed a large island on the SS no water on that side. Several elk swam to this island passed a small island near the center of the river, of a mile in length, and camped on one above separated from the other by a narrow chanel, those islands are called mud islands. The hunters killed 3 buffalo and one Eld today. The river is falling a little. Great number of buffalow and Elk on the hill side feeding deer scarce.

September 11, 1804

At 101/2 miles came upon a large village of the barking squirrel (prairie dog) covering a space 970 yards long and 800 yards wide. At this place the river was wide and crowded with sand-bars. A man was observed riding horseback down toward the boat and they were much pleased to find that it was George Shannon one of the party who was sent in search of two horses which had strayed away on Aug. 28. After Shannon had found them he attempted to rejoin the party but seeing some other tracks which must have been those of Indians, and which he mistook for those of the party concluded that the party was ahead. He had been for 16 days following the bank of the river above the party. During the first 4 days he exhausted his bullets and was then nearly starved, being obliged to subsist for 12 days on a few grapes and a rabbit which he killed by making use of a hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his horses gave out and was left behind; the other he kept as a last resource for food. Despairing of overtaking the party he was returning down the river in hopes of meeting some other boat and was on the point of killing his horse when he was so fortunate 1 9 to find the party.

September 12, 1804

They were able with great difficulty to struggle through the sand bars, the water being very rapid and shallow, so that they were several hours in making a mile. Several times the boat wheeled on a bar and the men were obliged to jump out and prevent the boat from upsetting. After making a way up one channel the shallowness of the water forced them back to seek the deep channel. They advanced only 4 miles and camped. The next day 12 miles were made through the sandbars. Four beavers were caught in traps. At night the mosquitoes were very troublesome, though the weather was cold and rainy.

September 13, 1804

A dark drizzley day, G. D. cought 4 beaver last night the wind from the NW. Cold set out early and proceeded on very well, passed a number of sand bars, Capt. Lewis killed a porcupine on a cotton tree feeding on the leaves and bowers of the said tree, the water is very shallow (in places) being crowded with sand bars camped on the s side under a bluff. The bluff on the SS not so much impregnated with mineral as on the LS muskeetors very troublesome.

September 14, 1804

Covered 9 miles and camped having searched all day along the southern shore to find an ancient volcano which they had heard at St. Charles was somewhere in that neighborhood. The hills on the south continue high. The party had the occasion to observe the rapid undermining of these hills by the Missouri. Observations were: 'The first attacks seemed to be on the hills which were overhanging the river; as soon as the violence of the current destroyed the grass at the foot of them the whole texture appeared loosened and the ground dissolved and mixed with the water; the muddy mixture was then forced over the low grounds which it covered sometimes to a depth of three inches and gradually destroyed the herbage; after which it offered no resistance to the water and became at last covered with sand.'

September 15, 1804

Reached the mouth of White River at 2 miles distance. Sergeant Gass and another man sent to examine it higher up. Reported the confluence of the Missouri and the White an excellent position for a town. Made 8 miles and camped on the north. The weather was cold and its dreariness increased by the howlings of a number of gray wolves around them. Early the next morning, having reached a convenient spot at 1 1/4 miles distance they camped after finding that they could not proceed over the sand-bars as fast as desired while the boat was so heavily loaded; they concluded not to send back as originally intended the third periogue, but to detail the soldiers until spring and in the meantime to lighten the boat by loading the periogue. The cold season coming on, a flannel shirt was given to each man and fresh powder to those who had exhausted their supply.

All around, the country had been recently burned and a young green grass about 4 inches high covered the ground which was enlivened by herds of antelope and buffalo. Reported, 'The buffalo in such multitudes that they could not exaggerate in saying that at a single glance they saw 3,000 before them. The second day at this camp Captain Lewis and some men went out to hunt and killed 13 common and 2 black-tailed deer, three buffalo and a goat.

September 16, 1804

We set out very early & proceeded on 1 ¼ miles between sand bars and came too on the LS Deturmined to dry our wet things and liten the boatwhich we found could not proceed with the present **********************

September 17, 1804

Dried all our wet articles, this fine Day, Captain Lewis went out with a view to See the Countrey and its productions, he was out all day. He killed a Buffalow and a remarkable Bird (Magpy) of the Corvus Species. Long tail the upper part of the feathers & also the wings is of a purplish variated Green, the back & a part of the wing feathers are white edged with black, white belly, while from the root of the wings to Center of the back is White, the head nake breast & other parts are black the Beeke like a Crow. About the Size of a large Pigion. A butifull thing.

I took equal altitudes and a meridian altitude. Captain Lewis returned at Dark, Colter Killed a Goat like the one I killed and a curious kind of Deer (Mule Deer) of a Dark gray Color. A Small reseptical under the eyes; like an Elk, the Taile about the length of Common Deer, round (like a Cow) a tuft of black hair about the end, this Species of Deer jumps like a goat or sheep.

8 fallow Deer 5 Common & 3 Buffalow killed to day. Captain Lewis saw a hare & killed a Ratte snake in a village of Barking Squarels the wind from SW Dryed our provisions, some of which was much Damaged.

September 18, 1804

The party proceeded with the boat much lightened but due to a high N.W. wind they camped after covering 7 miles. An animal which they had hitherto mistaken for a gray fox was killed, it proved to be their first coyote. The next day was clear with a S.E. wind enabling them to cover 26 1/4 miles with the aid of the sail. They passed Lower Island situated at the commencement of what was then known by the name of Grand Detour or Great Bend of the Missouri. (Between Hughes and Buffalo Co's., S. D.) The next morning they dispatched two men with their only horse across the neck of the big bend to hunt and await the arrival of the boat. Camped after covering 271/2 miles. Captain Clark, who early in the morning had crossed the neck of the bend, joined the camp this evening.

September 19, 1804

Set out early, a cool morning verry clear the wind from the SE a Bluff on the LS here commences a Butifull Countrey on both Sides of the Missourie. 2 passed a large Island called Prospect Island opposite this Island the 3 rivers Coms in, passing thro a butifull Plain, here I walked on Shore & Killed a fat Cow & Sent her to the boat and proceeded on to the first of the 3 rivers, this river is about 35 yards wide contains a good deel of water, I walked up this river 2 miles & cross, the bottom is high and rich Some timber, I crossed & returned to the mouth, & proceeded up one mile to the 2nd river which is Small 12 yards wide, and on it but little timber, on this Creek the Sioux has frequently Camped, as appears by the Signs. The lands between those two Creeks is a perpendicular bluff of aobut 80 feet with a butifull Plain & gentle assent back. A short distance above the 2nd and 3rd Creek Comes into the river in 3 places scattering its waters over the large timbered bottom, this Creek is near the Size of the Middle Creek Containing a greater quantity of water, those rivers is the place that all nations who meet are at peace with each other, called the Seoux pass of the 3 rivers.

The boat proceeded on passed the Island (3) passed a Creek 15 yards Wide on the L side (4) passed a Creek on the LS 20 yards wide which I call Elm creek passing tho’ a high Plain (5) passed a Creek on the LS 18 yards above which the boat Came too, I joined them late at night, and Call this Creek Night. The wind favourable all Day, I killed a fat buck Elk late and could only get his Skin and a Small part of his flesh to Camp. My Servent Killed a Buck, the Crew in the boat Killed 2 buffalow in the river. The Hunters on shore Killed 4 deer with black tails one of which was a Buck with two main Prongs on each side forked equally, which I never before Seen. I saw Several large gangs of Buffalow 2 large Herds of Elk & goats &c. (6) pass a Small Island on the SS opposite to this Island on the Ls a Creek of about 10 yards wide Coms in passing thro a plain in which great quantities of the Prickley Pear grows, I call this Creek Prickley Pear Creek, this Island is called the lower Island it is Situated at the Commencement of what is Called & Known by the Grand de Tortu [Detour] or Big Bend of the Missourie.

September 20, 1804

A fair morning wind from the SE detached 2 men to the 1st Creek above the big bend with the horse to hunt and wait our arrival proceeded on passed the lower Island opposite which the Sand bars are very thick & the water Shoal. I walked on Shore with a view of examining this bend crossed at the Narost part which is a high irregular hills of about 180 or 190 feet, this place the gouge of the bend is 1 Mile & a quarter (from river to river or across,) from this high land which is only in the Gouge, the bend is a Butifull Plain thro which I walked, Saw numbers of Buffalow & Goats, I saw a Hare & believe he run into a hole in the Side of a hill, he run up this hill which is Small & has several holes on the Side & I could not see him after, I joined the boat in the evening. Passed a Small Island on the Ls in the NW extremity of the bend Called Solitary Island, and Camped late on a Sand Bar near the SS R. Fields Killed 1 Deer & 2 Goats one of them a female. She Differs from the Mail as to Size being Smaller, with Small Horns, Streght with a Small Prong without any black about the Neck. None of those Goats has any Beard, they are all Keenly made [delicately formed], and is butifull.

September 21, 1804

Between one and two o'clock the sergeant on guard alarmed the party by crying that the sand bar on which they were lying was sinking. They jumped up and found that both above and below their camp the sand was undermined and falling in very fast. They had scarcely gotten into the boats and pushed off when the bank under which they had been lying fell in and would certainly have sunk the two periogues if they had remained there. By the time they reached the opposite shore the ground of their camp sunk. A second camp was made for the rest of the night and at daylight proceeded on to the throat of the Great Bend. A man whom they had dispatched to step off the distance across the bend made it 2000 yards; the circuit was 30 miles. At 6 miles above the neck of the Great Bend they found a deer and the skin of a white (gray) wolf left for them by their hunters ahead. At 23 miles camped and here they saw some tracks of Indians but they appeared 3 or 4 weeks old.

September 22, 1804

Passed a fort and trading house built by a Mr. Loisel who had wintered there during the previous year in order to trade with the Sioux, the remains of whose camps were in great numbers about the place. Gass describes the post: 'The place picketed in is about 65 or 70 feet square with sentry-boxes in two of the angles. The pickets are 13 1/2 feet above ground. In this square he built a house 451/2 by 32 1/2 feet, divided it into four equal parts, one for goods, one to trade in, one to be used as a common hall and the other for a family house.'

The hunters who had been sent ahead joined the party this date. They mentioned passing over some mineral substances that rotted and destroyed their moccasins. Covered 16 miles and camped at the mouth of a small creek. Twenty miles were covered the next day and in the evening three boys of the Sioux nation swam across the river and informed the party that two parties of Sioux were camped on the next river, one consisting of 80 and the second of 60 lodges at some distance above. After treating them kindly they were sent back with a present of two carrots of tobacco for their chiefs whom they invited for a conference in the morning.

September 23, 1804

Set out under a gentle breeze from the SE (1) passed a Small Island Situated in a bend to the LS Called Goat Island, a Short distance above the upper point a Creek of 12 yards wide Coms in on the SS. We observed a great Smoke to the SW. I walked on Sohre & observed a great Smoke ot the SW. I walked on Shore & observed a great Smoke to the SW. I walked on Shore & observed Buffalow in great Hers at a distance.

2 passed two small Willow Islands with large Sand bars making out from them, passed 2 Elk Island about 2.5 Miles long & ¾ Mile Wide situated near the LS Covered with Cotton Wood the read Currents Called by the French Gres de Beuff & grapes.

September 24, 1804

At about 5 miles one of the hunters (Colter), joined the party. He had procured 4 elk but while he was in pursuit of the game the Indians had stolen his horse. The party soon overtook 5 Indians on the shore, anchored and told them from the boat that they were friends and wished to continue so but were not afraid of any Indians; that some of their young men had stolen the horse which their great white father had sent for their great chief and that the party could not treat with them until the horse was restored. The Indians said they knew nothing of the horse but if he had been taken he should be given up.

The party moved on upstream about 131/2 miles and anchored 100 yards off the mouth of a river on the south which they named Teton or Bad River after the tribe of Sioux of the name which inhabit it. Two thirds of the party remained on board and the rest went as a guard on shore with the cooks and one periogue. The 5 Indians had followed them and slept with the guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief they smoked with him and made him a present of tobacco.

September 25, 1804

A flag and awning was raised, under which the party assembled at 12 o'clock with all parading under arms. The chiefs and warriors from the camp above, about 50 or 60 in number, arrived and after smoking, a speech was delivered. After distributing presents to the chiefs they were invited on board to see the boat, gun, and other curiosities that might amuse them. In this they succeeded too well for after giving them a quarter of a glass of whiskey which they seemed to like very much, it was with much difficulty that they accompanied Captain Clark ashore. Gass relates: 'Five of them came on board and remained about three hours. Captain Clark and some of our men in a periogue went ashore with them; but the Indians did not seem disposed to permit their return. They said they were poor and wished to keep the periogue with them. Captain Clark insisted on coming to the boat; but they refused to let him and said they had soldiers as well as he had. He told them his soldiers were good and that he had more medicine aboard his boat than would kill twenty such nations in one day. After this they did not threaten any more and said they only wanted us to stop at their lodge that the women and children might see the boat. Four of them came aboard when we proceeded on a mile, and cast anchor at the point of an island in the middle of the river. The Indians remained with us all night.' The situation was critical. The Sioux strung bows as cowboys draw their six-shooters for instant use. Captain Lewis was full of mettle; Captain Clark had red hair and had been insulted; both officers were dauntless and their men well disciplined. Several lives, possibly the further progress of the expedition hung upon the first twang of a bow-string. Captain Clark wrote: 'Invited the Chiefs on board to show them our boat and such curiosities as was strange to them, we gave them 1/4 glass of whiskey which they appeared to be very fond of, sucked the bottle after it was out and soon began to be troublesome, one, the 2d chief assuming Drunkness, as a Cloaki for his rascally intentions. I went with those chiefs (which left with great reluctance) to shore with a view of reconseling those men to us, as soon as I landed the Periogue, the chiefs soldier Huged (chief's solder hugged) the mast, and the 2d chief was very insolent both in words and gestures declaring I should not go on, stating he had not received presents sufficient from us. His gestures were of such personal nature I felt myself competed to Draw my sword, at this motion Captain Lewis ordered all under arms in the boat, those with me also showed a disposition to Defend themselves and me, the grand chief then took hold of the roap and ordered the young warriors away, I felt myself warn (warm) and spoke in very positive terms. We proceeded about 1 mile and anchored out off a willow island placed a guard in the boat, fastened the Periogues to the boat, I call this Island Bad Humered Island as we were in a bad humer.'

Then in a foot-note: 'Most of the warrers appeared to have their Bows strung and took out their arrows from the quiver; as I was not permitted to return, I sent all the men except 2 Inft. to the boat, the periogue soon returned with about 12 of our determined men, ready for any event. 'Captain Clark also told them that they would not be prevented from going on as they were not squaws but warriors sent by their great father who could in a moment exterminate them.'

September 26, 1804

The party's conduct on the previous day seemed to have inspired the Indians with fear of them as they were desirous of cultivating their acquaintance. The party complied with the Indians wishes to let the Squaws and children see the boat. Accordingly after moving upstream 11/2 miles they came to the south side where a crowd of men, women and children were waiting to receive them. Captain Lewis went ashore and remained several hours. He observed that their disposition was friendly and decided that the party would remain here overnight.

Captains Lewis and Clark went ashore one after the other and were met on landing by ten well dressed young men who took them up in a highly decorated robe and carried them to a large council-house where they were placed on a dressed buffalo skin by the side of the Grand Chief. The council room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. Under this shelter sat about 70 men forming a circle around the chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one the party had given them the day before. This left a vacant circle about 6 feet in diameter in which the pipe of peace was raised on two forked sticks about 6 or 8 inches from the ground and under it the down of a swan was scattered.

Prisoners of War. A large fire on which they were cooking provisions stood near and in the center about 440 pounds of buffalo meat as a present for the party. As soon as Captains Lewis and Clark were seated an old man got up, approved what they had done and bedded for pity on their unfortunate situation. To this was replied assurances of protection. After various harangue was delivered, the Great Chief with great solemnity took some of the most delicate parts of the dog which was cooked for the festival and held it to the flag by way of sacrifice. This done, he held up the pipe of peace and first pointed it toward the heavens, then to the four quarters of the globe, then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe and presented it to the Captains. After smoking, the repast consisting of the dog, being a great dish among the Sioux; pemmican, a dish made of buffalo meat, dried or jerked then pounded and mixed raw with grease; and a kind of ground potato dressed like the preparation of Indian corn called hominy. Of all these luxuries placed before them with horn spoons they took the pemmican and potatoes but they could not as yet partake but sparingly of the dog. They ate and smoked for an hour when it became dark. Everything was cleared away for the dance at which they stayed until midnight when they informed the chief that they must be fatigued with all those attempts to amuse the party. Four chiefs accompanied the party and two spent the night with them on board.

While on shore they saw twenty-five squaws and about the same number of children who had been taken prisoners two weeks before in a battle with the Mahas. The Sioux had destroyed forty lodges and killed seventy-five men whom they saw man of the scalps. They also witnessed a quarrel between two squaws which appeared to be growing more boisterous when a man came forward, at whose approach everyone seemed terrified and ran. He took the squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely. On inquiry into the nature of such summary justice, they learned that this man was an officer, whose duty it was to keep the peace, named by the chief and remained in power some days until the chief appointed another.

September 27, 1804

The party arose early and two chiefs, as a matter of course and according to their custom, took the blankets on which they had slept. To this was added a peck of corn as a present to each. Captain Lewis went ashore with the two chiefs to see a part of the nation that was expected but did not come. During the night the Maha prisoners had told one of the members of the party, who understood their language, that the expedition was to be stopped. They therefore, without giving any indications of their suspicion, prepared everything for an attack. They had not been misinformed for the next morning all with great difficulty left the boat except the great chief. As they were setting out several of the chiefs soldiers sat on the rope which held the boat to the shore. Irritated at this they got everything ready to fire on them if they persisted but the great chief on board said they only wanted some tobacco. Having already refused a flag and tobacco to a second chief, but willing to leave them without going to extremities, they threw him a carrot of tobacco, saying to him 'You told us that you are a great man and have influence; now show your influence by taking the rope from those men and we will go without any further trouble.' This appeal to his pride had the desired effect. He went off the boat, gave his soldiers the tobacco, pulled the rope out of their hands and delivered it on board.

After sailing about 2 miles they observed a third chief beckoning to them. They took him on board and he informed them that the rope had been held by order of the second chief who was a double-faced man. A little farther on they were joined by the son of this third chief who came on board to see his father. On his return a speech was sent in to the nation explaining what they had done and advising them to peace but if they persisted in their attempts to stop them, they were willing and able to defend themselves. After making 6 miles the party camped on an island in the middle of the river.

September 28, 1804

Made many attempts in different ways to find our anchor, but Could not, the Sand had Covered it, from the Misfortune of last night our boat was laying at Shore in a verry unfavourable Situation, after finding that the anchor Could not be found we determined to proceed on, with great difficuelty got the Chiefs out of our boat, and when we was about Setting out the Class called the Soldiers took possession of the Cable the 1st Chief which was Still on board, & intended to go a Short distance up with us. I told him the men of his nation Set on the Cable, he went out & told Captain Lewis who was at the bow the men Who Set on the roap was Soldiers, and wanted Tobacco Captian L. would not agree to be forced into any thing, the 2nd Chief Demanded a flag & tobacco which we refused to give stating proper reasons to them for it after much Dificuelty – which had nearly reduced us to necessity to hostilities I threw a Carrot of Tobacco to his Soldiers & he jerked the rope from them and handed it to the bowsman we then Set out under a breeze from the SE about 2 miles up we observed the 3rd Chief on Shore beckoning to us we took him on board he informed us the roap was held by the order of the 2nd Chief who was a Double Spoken man, Soon after we Saw a man Comeing full Speed, thro: the plains left his horse & proceeded across a Sand bar near the Shore we took him on board & observed that he was the Son of the Chief we had on board. We sent by him a talk to the nation Stateint [stating] the cause of our hoisting the red flag under the white, if they were for peace Stay at home & do as we had Directed them, if they were for war or were Deturmined to stop us we were ready to defend our Selves, we halted on houre & ½ on the SS & made a substitute of Stones for a ancher, refreshed our men and proceeded on about 2 miles higher up & Came to a verry Small Sand bar in the middle of the river & stayed all night, I am verry unwell for want of Sleep. Deturmined to Sleep to night if possible, the Men Cooked & we rested well.

September 29, 1804

The party set out early but were again impeded by sandbars. At nine o'clock they saw the second chief on shore with two women and three men. He wished the party to take the two women as an offer to make friends, this was refused. He then requested the party to take them to the other band of the nation farther on up the river. This was declined and they followed along the shore. The chief asked for some tobacco, this was granted and gave more as a present for that part of the nation which they did not see. At 7 5/z miles came to a small creek on the south, where elk were seen in great numbers, which they called No- Timber Creek (in Stanley Co.) from its bare appearance. Camped on an island at 11 miles.

September 30, 1804

The party had not gone far when an Indian ran after them 2 4 and begged to be carried on board, which was refused. They soon discovered on the hills at a distance a great number of Indians who came towards the river and camped ahead of them. They stopped for breakfast at about 11 miles, afterwards proceeded on a short distance to the Indian camp which consisted of about 400 'souls'. They anchored 100 yards from shore and discovered that these were Tetons belonging to the band which they had just left. They were told that the party took them by the hand and would make each chief a present of tobacco; that they were badly treated by some of their band and having waited two days for them below they could not stop but referred to Mr. Durion for their talk and explanation of views. The Indians apologized for what had passed and assured the party that they were friendly and very desirous that they land and eat with them. This was refused but a periogue was sent to shore with some tobacco and told them to go back and open their ears to the party's counsel. They immediately returned to their lodges.

Seasick Indian. The party proceeded and at 6 miles two Indians came to the bank, looked at them for about a half an hour and then went, without speaking, over the hills to the southwest. After some time the wind rose higher, the boat struck a log, turned and was very near to taking in water. The chief became so terrified at the danger that he hid himself in the boat and as soon as they landed got his gun and told them that he wanted to return; that the party would see no more Tetons and they might proceed unmolested. The advice already given him was repeated, presented him with a blanket, knife, some tobacco and after smoking he set out. The party continued and camped at 20 1/z miles.

October 01, 1804

The weather was very cold and the wind high from the southeast. At 5 miles passed the mouth of the Cheyenne River. Progressed 16 miles and camped on a sand-bar. On the opposite shore they saw a house among the willows and a boy whom they called and brought on board. He proved to be a young Frenchman in the employ of a Mr. Valle, a trader who was there pursuing his commerce with the Sioux. The party set sail the next morning with Mr. Valle who had come aboard to visit and accompanied them two miles. He informed them that the Cheyennes reside chiefly on the heads of that river and steal horses from the Spanish settlement, a plundering excursion which they perform in a month's time. The party moved on, later taking a meridian altitude on their arrival at the upper end of the bend, which they called Lookout Bend. This bend was nearly 20 miles around and not more than 2 miles across.

In the afternoon they head a shot fired and shortly afterward observed some Indians on a hill. One of them came to the shore and asked them to land as there were 20 lodges there. This was declined, telling him that they had already seen his chiefs and that they might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk that was delivered. At 9 miles they came to the lower point of Caution Island. 'Observe great caution this day, expecting the Seaux intentions somewhat hostile.' Camped on a sand-bar a little above the island. They were not able to hunt this day as there were so many Indians in the neighborhood. They were in constant expectation of being attacked and therefore were forced to keep the party together to be on guard.

Difficult Navigation. The party proceeded till twelve o'clock and landed on a bar where they examined the periogues and the forecastle of the boat. It was found that mice had cut several bags of corn and ruined some of their clothes. About one o'clock an Indian came running to the shore with a turkey on this back, several others soon joined him but they had no conversation with them. The channel became so obstructed by sand-bars as they moved on up the river that after attempting in vain several channels decided to rest for the night after covering 8 miles. The next morning they found no practicable outlet for them in the channel they had been following, therefore it was necessary to backtrack 3 miles and attempt another channel in which they were more fortunate. Indians were in small numbers along the shore and seemed willing, had they been more numerous, to molest them. They called for the party to land, one of them gave three yells and fired a ball ahead of the boat, they however took no notice of it but landed on the south to breakfast. One of the Indians swam across and begged for some powder, They gave him tobacco only. At about 10 miles came to an island 1 1/2 miles long by 1/4 of a mile wide, in the center of which was an old deserted village of the Ricaras. It contained 17 lodges and was surrounded by a circular wall. The Ricaras were known to have lived there in 1797. Camp was made on a sand-bar at the upper end of this island having covered 12 miles.

October 02, 1804

A Violent wind all night from the SE. Slackened a little and we proceeded on Mr. Fon Vallie Came on board and proceeded on 2 miles with us, a verry Cold morning some black Clouds flying. At 2 o’clock opposite a Wood on the LS we observed Some Indians on a hill on the SS. One Came down t the river opposite to us and fired off his gun & beckened to us to Come too, we payed no attention to him. He followed on Some distance, we spoke a few words to him, he wised us to go a Shore and to his Camp which was over the hill and Consisted of 20 Lodges, we excused ourselves advised him to go and here our talk of Mr. Durion, he enquired for traders we informed him one was in the next bend below. & parted, he returned, & we proceeded on 1 passed a large Island, on the SS here we expected the Tetons would attempt to stop us and expected every moment. Opsd. This Island on the LS a Small Creek Coms in, This Island we call Isd. Of Caution. We took in some wood on a favourable Situation where we Could defend our Men on Shore & 2 Camped on a Sand bar ½ a Mile from the main Shore. The Wind changed to the NW & rose verry high and Cold which Continud. The Current of the Missourie is less rapid & Contains much less sediment, of the Same Colour.

October 03, 1804

The NW wind blew verry hard all night with Some rain. A cold morning, we Set out at 7 o’clock and proceeded on at 12 o’clock landed on a Bare LS examined the Perogus & focatle (forecastle) of the (boat) to see if the mice had done any damage, Several bags cut by them corn scattered &c. Some of our clothes also spoiled by them, and papers. At 1 o’clock an Indian came to the bank SS with a turkey on his back, four others Soon joined him, we attempted several chanels and could not find water to assend, landed on a Sand bar & concluded to Stay all night, & Send out and hunt a chanell, some rain this afternoon. Saw Brant and white gulls flying Southerly in large flocks.

October 04, 1804

The wind blew all night from the NW some rain, we were obliged to Drop down 3 miles to get the Chanel Suft. Deep to pass up, Several Indians on the shore viewing of us called us to land. One of them gave 3 yels & Sciped [skipped] a ball before us, we payed no attention to him, proceeded on and came too on the LS to brackf’t. One of those Indians swam across to us begged for Powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco & Set him over on a San dbar, and set out. The wind hard ahead. 1 passed a Island in the middle of the river about 3 miles in length, we call Good Hope Island. 2 at 4 miles passed a 2 Creek on the LS about 12 yards wide Captain Lewis and 3 men walked on Shore & crossed over to an 3 Island situated on the SS of the current & near the center of the river. This Island is about 1.5 miles long and nearly ½ as wide, in the Center of this Island was an old village of the rickeries called La hoo catt. It was circular and walled containing 17 lodges and it appears to have been deserted about five years, the Island contains but little timber. We camped on the Sand bar making form this Island, the day verry cool.

October 05, 1804

There was a white frost this morning. After sailing several miles and at seven o'clock they heard some yells and saw three Indians of the Teton band who asked them to come ashore. They begged for tobacco and received the same answer as before. The party camped at 20 miles. The next morning was still cold, the wind being from the north. At 12 miles halted for dinner at a village supposedly belonging to the Ricaras. It consisted of about 80 octagon shaped lodges, neatly covered with earth, placed as close to each other as possible and picketed around. The skin canoes, mats, buckets and articles of furniture found in the lodges inducted them to suppose that it had been left in the spring. Again they selected the wrong channel and rather than backtrack 3 miles, dragged the boat over the shallow bars. At 14'12 miles stopped for the right opposite a creek tailed Otter (Now Swan Creek in Walworth County).

October 06, 1804

A cool morning wind from the North. Ste out early passed a willow Island. Situated near the S. Shore at the upper point of Som timber on the SS. Many large round Stones near the middle of the river, those Stones appear to have been washed from the hills. Passed a Village of about 80 neet Lodges covered with earth and picketed around, those loges are Spicious of an Octagon form as close together as they can possibly be placed and appear to have been inhabited last Spring, from the Canoes of Skins Mats buckits &c. found in the lodges, we are of opinion they were the recrereis. Wefound Squashes of 3 Different Kinds growing in the Village, one of our men Kiled an Elk close by this Village, I saw 2 wolves in persute of another which appeared to be wounded and nearly tired, we proceeded on found the river Shole. We made several attempts to findthe main Channel between the Sand bars, and was obliged at length to Drag the boat over to Save a league which we must return to get into the deepest Channel, we have been obgd. To hunt a Chanl. For Some time past the river being devided in many places in a great number of chanels, Saw Gees Swan, Brants, & Ducks of Different Kinds on the Sand bars to day, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Prarie hens, I observe but fiew Gulls or Pleover in this part of the river, The Corvos or Magpye is verry Common in this quarter. We camped on a large Sand bar off the mouth of eaver or Otter Creek, on the SS this creek is about 22 yards wide at the mouth and contains a greater perpotion of Water than common for creeks of its Sise.

October 07, 1804

Passed another village or wintering camp of the Ricaras composed of about 60 lodges built in the same form as those passed the day before. At ten o'clock, they saw two Indians on the north side who told them they were a part of the lodge of Buffalo Medicine the Teton Chief whom the party had seen on Sept. 25. They were on their way to the Ricaras and begged for something to eat which was granted. They party moved on until they had covered 22 miles. The next day at 7'Iz miles came to an island and about halfway past it a number of Ricara Indians came out to see them. They stopped, took a Frenchman on board who accompanied them past the island to camp at a distance of 12 miles from that of the day before. Captain Lewis then returned with four of the party to see the village containing about 60 lodges situated in the center of the island about 3 miles long and covered with fields in which the Indians 2 6 raised corn, beans, and potatoes. Several Frenchmen living among the Indians came back with Captain Lewis, particularly a Mr. Gavelines who had acquired the language.

October 08, 1804

A cool morning. Set out early the wind from the NW proceeded on, passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the LS abot 2.5 miles above Grouse Island, passed a Willow Island which divides the Current equally. Passed the mouth of a River called by the Ricares We tar hoo on the LS. This river is 120 yards wide, the water of which at this time is Confined within 20 yards, dischargeing but a Small quantity, throwing out mud with Small propotion of Sand, great quantities of the red Berries, ressembling Currents, are on the river in every bend. I formed a Camp of the French & the guard on Shore, with one entinal on board of the boat at anchor, a pleasant evening all things arranged both for Peae or War, this village is situated about the center of a large Island near the L. Side & near the foot of Some high bald uneaven hills, Sevearl French men Came up with Captain Lewis in a Perogue, one of which is aMr. Gravellin a man well versed in the language of this nation and gave us some information relative to the Countrey nation &c.

October 09, 1804

The wind was so cold and high all day that they could not assemble the Indians in council but some of the party went to the village. Three principal chiefs visited the party, to whom they gave tobacco and told them that they would council tomorrow. Two or three squaws, in face of high waves, rowed to the camp with perfect composure in small canoes made of a single buffalo skin stretched over a frame of boughs interwoven like a basket. The object which appeared to astonish the Indians most was Captain Clark's servant York, a remarkably stout, strong negro. By way of amusement he told them that he had once been a wild animal, caught and tamed by his master and to convince them showed feats of strength which added to his looks made him more terrible than he wished to be.

October 10, 1804

The weather being fine this day they dispatched Mr. Gravelines, who with a Mr. Tabeau another French trader had breakfasted with them, to invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to a conference. They all assembled at one o'clock and after the usual ceremonies they addressed the Indians as they had the Ottoes and Sioux. After this the gun was exhibited very much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the color and manner of York. The party was equally gratified at discovering that the Ricaras made no use of spirituous liquors of any kind. The examples of traders who brought it having disgusted them. The party had at first offered them whiskey but they refused with the sensible remark that they were surprised that their father would present to them a liquor which would make them fools. On another occasion they observed through Mr. Tabeau that no man could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies. The council being over they retired to consult on the answer.

October 11, 1804

At eleven o'clock they again met in council. The grand chief made a short speech of thanks for the advice given and promised to follow it, adding that the door was now open and no one dare shut it and that the party might depart whenever they pleased - alluding to the treatment the party received from the Sioux. The Indians gave them corn, beans and dried squashes and in return were given a steel mill with which they were very pleased. At one o'clock the party broke camp with the grand chief and his nephew on board. At 2 miles anchored below a creek on the south separating the second and third village of the Ricaras, about a half a mile apart. They visited both villages and sat conversing with the chiefs for some time, during which they presented the party with a bread made of corn and beans, corn and beans boiled, and a large rich bean which they take from the mice of the prairie which discover and collect it. The Indians were told that the party would speak to them in the morning at their villages separately.

October 12, 1804

Accordingly, after breakfast Captains Lewis, Clark and Sergeant Gass went ashore to the house of the chief of the second village where they found his chiefs and worriers. The Indians presented them with about seven bushels of corn, a pair of leggings, a twist of their tobacco and seeds of two different species of tobacco. Speeches of gratitude followed and a request was made by the Indians for one of the chiefs to accompany the party up to the Mandans to negotiate a peace between the two nations. To this they agreed and moved on to the third village. Here the party was addressed in the same way, presented with ten bushels of corn, some beans, a dried pumpkin and squashes. After the party had answered and explained the magnitude and power of the United States the three chiefs accompanied them to the boat. They gave the Indians sugar, salt and a sun glass. The party pulled out at two o'clock as the two chiefs left, the third was to accompany them to the Mandans. After making 7 1/2 miles camped on the north side.

The Ricaras did not beg as the Sioux had although they received with thankfulness what was given to them, though this praise should be qualified by mentioning that an axe was stolen from the cooks the night before. The dress of the men was a simple pair of moccasins, leggings and a cloth around the waist, over which a buffalo robe is occasionally thrown. Their hair, arms and ears were decorated with different ornaments. The women wore moccasins, leggings and a long shirt made of goats skins, generally white and fringed, which was tied around the waist. To these they added buffalo robe without the hair in summer. The Ricara women were reported more handsome than the Sioux. Both of them were however disposed to be amorous, the men found no difficulty in procuring companions for the night by means of the interpreters. Those interviews were chiefly clandestine among the Sioux, however this was completely reversed among the Ricaras in that the wife or sister should submit to a stranger's embraces without the consent of her husband or brother is cause of great disgrace and offense. Especially as for many purposes of civility or gratitude the husband and brother would themselves present to a stranger these females and be gratified by attentions to them. The Sioux had offered them squaws, but having declined while they remained there, they followed them with offers of females for two days. The Ricaras had been equally accommodating and they had equally withstood their temptation but, such their desire to oblige the party that two very handsome squaws were sent on board this evening, 'and persecuted in their civilities.'

The black man York participated largely in these favors; for instead of inspiring any prejudice his color seemed to procure him additional advantages from the Indians who desired to preserve among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger. Among other instances, a Ricara invited York into his house and presenting his wife to him returned to the outside of the door. While there one of York's comrades who was looking for him came to the door but the gallant husband would permit no interruption until a reasonable time had elapsed.

Gass describes the lodges: 'In a circle of a size suited to the dimensions of the intended lodge (generally about 30 to 40 feet) they set up 16 forked posts five or six feet high, and lay poles from one fork to another. Against these poles they lean other poles, slanting from the ground, and extending about 4 inches above the cross poles; these are to receive the ends of the upper poles, that support 2 8 the roof. They next set up 4 large forks, 15 feet high, and about 10 feet apart, in the middle of the area; and poles or beams between these. The roof poles are then laid on extending from the lower poles across the beams which rest on the middle forks, of such a length as to leave a hole at the top for a chimney. The whole is then covered with willow branches except the chimney and a hole below to pass through. On the willow branches they lay grass and lastly clay. At the hole below they build a pen about 4 feet wide and projecting 10 feet from the but, and hang a buffalo skin at the entrance of the but for a door. This labor Eke every other kind is chiefly performed by the squaws.'

The Ricaras cultivated maize or Indian corn, beams, pumpkins, watermelons, squashes and a species of tobacco peculiar to themselves. Their commerce was chiefly with traders who supplied them with goods in return for furs. The object chiefly in demand was red paint but they would give anything they had to spare for the most trifling article. One of the members of the party gave an Indian a hook made out of a pin and received in return a pair of moccasins.

October 13, 1804

The visitors left this morning except the brother of the chief who accompanied them and one of the squaws. They passed at an early hour a camp of Sioux on the north bank who merely looked at them without saying a word and from the character of the tribe they did not solicit a conversation. At 15 miles came to a small creek on the south. which they named the Pocasse (Now Kunkpapa, Mile 1350 M.R.) in honor of the chief of the -second Ricara village. The party proceeded and after making 18 miles camped on the north side.

October 14, 1804

Some rain last night all wet & cold, we set out early the rain continued all day, at [blank in MS] miles we passed a (I) creek on the LS 15 yards wide this this creek we call after the 3rd chief Piaheto (or Eagles feather) at 1 o clock we halted on a sand bar and after dinner executed the sentence of the court martial so far as giving the corporal punishment and proceeded on a few miles, the wind a head from NE camped in a cove of the bank on the SS immediately opposite our camp on the LS I observe an antient fortification the walls of which appear to be 8 or 10 feet high, (most of it washed in) the evening wet and disagreeable, the river something wider more timber on the banks.


The punishment of this day alarmed the Indian chief very much, he cried aloud (or effected to cry) I explained the cause of the punishment and the necessity (of it) which he (also) thought examples were also necessary, and he himself had made them by death, his nation never whipped even their children from their burth.

October 15, 1804

The party set out in the rain which continued during the day. After dinner they stopped and executed the sentence of a court martial on one of the soldiers. 'One man J. Newmon confined for mutinous expressions. We tried the Prisoner Newmon last night by 9 of his Peers they did sentence him 75 lashes & (be) Disbanded the party... halted on a Sand bar & after Dinner executed the Sentence of the Court Martial so far a (as) giving the Corporal punishment, and proceeded on a few miles.' Lewis' autographed muster-roll now in the War Department archives on which Newmans' name does not appear as he had been disbanded from the party but the following statement: 'John Newmon was a private in the Infantry of the United States army who joined me as a volunteer and entered into an enlistment in common with others by which he was held and Mustered as one of the permanent party. In the course of the expedition, or shortly before we arrived at the Mandan Villages he committed himself by using certain mutinous expressions which caused me to arrest him and to have him tried by a Court Martial formed of his peers; they finding him guilty, sentences him to receive seventy-five lashes and to be discharged from the permanent party. This sentence was enforced by me, and the punishment took place. The conduct of this man previous to this period had been generally correct, and the zeal he afterwards displayed for the benefit of the service was highly meritorious. In the course of the winder while at Fort Mandan, from an ardent wish to attune for the crime which he had committed at an unguarded moment, he exerted himself on every occasion to become 2 9 useful]. This disposition induced him to expose himself too much to the intense cold of that climate, and on a hunting excursion he had his hands and feet severely frozen with which he suffered extreme pain for some weeks-having recovered from this accident by the 1st of April 1805. He asked forgiveness for what had passed, and begged that I would permit him to continue with me through the voyage, but deeming it impolitic to relax from the sentence, although' he stood acquitted in my mind, I determined to send him back, which was accordingly done.

Since my return I have been informed that he was extremely serviceable as a hunter on the voyage to St. Louis and that the boat on several occasions owed her safety in a great measure to his personal exertions, being a man of uncommon activity and bodily strength. If under these circumstances it would be thought proper to give Newmon the remaining third which will be deducted from the gratuity awarded Paptiest (Baptiste Lepage) who occupied his station in the after part of the voyage I should feel myself much gratified.' This letter is dated City of Washington, January 15, 1807 and addressed to General Henry Dearborn, Secretary of War.

This operation affected the Indian chief very sensibly for he cried aloud during the punishment. The offense was explained and the reasons for it. He acknowledged that examples were necessary and that he himself had given by punishing with death, but his nation never whipped even children from their birth. After this the party continued and camped at a distance of twelve miles on the south bank.

Oct. 15, 1804 - At 3 miles distance from last night's camp they stopped a little above a camp of Ricaras who were hunting, and about 30 Indians visited the party. They came over in their skin canoes bringing meat for which they returned to them beads and fish hooks. About one mile farther they found another camp of Ricaras consisting of eight lodges; here again they ate and exchanged a few presents. As the party moved on up the river covering ten miles over sand-bars, camp was made above a camp of then Ricara lodges. The party visited their camp, smoked and ate with several of them. They all appeared kind and pleased with the party's attentions, and the fair sex received the members with more than hospitality. York was here again an object of astonishment. The children followed him constantly and if he chanced to turn toward them they ran in great terror.

October 16, 1804

At this camp the squaw who accompanied the chief left the party. Two others were very anxious to go on with them. As the party proceeded upstream great numbers of antelope were seen on the banks of the river. They soon saw large herds of them in the water that had been gradually driven into the river by the Indians who were lined up along the bank to prevent their escape and were firing on them. Sometimes boys went into the river and killed them with sticks. They seemed to be very successful as 58 were counted which they had killed. The party members killed some and then passed the lodges to which these Indians belong. Camp was made about a half a mile above the village, having covered 14 1/2 miles. They were soon visited by numbers of Indians who crossed the river hallooing and singing. Two of the Indians returned for some goat's flesh, dried and fresh buffalo meat with which they made a feast that lasted till late at night with music and merriment.

October 17, 1804

The wind from the northwest became so strong after ten o'clock that they could not move until late in the afternoon. The party went hunting and killed six deer which were 'scaffeled up', out of reach of the wolves. The leaves were fast falling. The river was wider than usual and full of sand bars.

The next day after three miles, the party reached the mouth of LeBoulet or Cannonball River. Here they met two Frenchmen in the employ of Mr. Gravelines who had been robbed by the Mandans of their traps, furs, and other articles. They were descending the river in a periogue but they turned back in expectation of obtaining redress through means of the party. Camp was made at a distance of 13 miles all of which was made with oars and poles.

October 18, 1804

Set out early proceeded on at 6 miles passed the mouth of (I) la [Le] Boulet (or Cannon Ball River) about 140 yards wide on the LS. This river heads in the court Noi or Black Mountains (a fine Day) above the mouth of the river Great numbers of Stone perfectly round with fine Grit are in the Bluff and on the shore, the river takes its name from those stones which resemble cannon balls. The water of this river is confined within 40 yards. We met 2 frenchmen in a pirogue Decending from hunting, and complained of the mandans robbing them of 4 traps their furs and several other articles. Those men were in the imploy of our Roicaree interpreter Mr. Gravelin they turned and followered us.

Saw great numbers of goats on the SS comeing to the river our hunters killed 4 of them. Some run back and others crossed and proceeded on their journey to the Court Nou at (3) passed a small river called Chew ah or fish river on the SS this river is about 28 yards wide and heads to the NE passed a small creek on the LS 1 mile above the last, and camped on a sand bar on the LS. Opposite to us we saw a gangue of buffalow bulls which we did not think worth while to kill. Our hunters killed 4 coats [goats] 6 deer, 4 Elk, and a pelican and informs that they saw in one gang: 248 elk. (I walked on shore in the evening with a view to see some of those remarkable places mentioned by evins [Evans – Ed.], non of which I could find). The countrey in this quarter is generally leavel and fine. Some high short hills, and some ragid ranges of hills at a distance.

October 19, 1804

The party set sail with a fine morning and as southeast wind. On both banks of the Missouri were lowlands. In walking along the shore they counted 52 herds of buffalo, and three of elk at a single view. Besides these they observed deer, pelicans and wolves. After covering 17 1/2 miles they camped opposite a number of round hills. (Bismarck Co.). The next day twelve miles were covered in a high wind. Passed the first ruins they had seen of a Mandan village. All this day great numbers of elk, deer, goats and buffalo were seen along with the usual attendants of the latter the wolves, which follow their movements and feed upon those which die by accident or are too poor to keep pace with the herd. The hunters wounded a bear and saw fresh tracks of those animals twice as large as the track of a man.

October 20, 1804

Set out early this morning and proceeded on the wind from the SE after breakfast I walked out on the L side to see those remarkable places pointed out by evins, I saw an old remains of a village (covering 6 or 8 acres) on the side of a hill which the chief with too ne tells me that nation lived in 2 [a number] villages 1 on each side of the river and the Troublesome Seaux caused them to move about 40 miles higher up where they remained a few years and moved to the place they now live, (2) passed a small creek on the SS and one on the LS passed a island covered with willows laying in the middle of the river. No current on the LS Camped on the LS above a bluff containing coal of an inferior quality, this bank is immediately above the old village of the Mandans. The countrey is fine, the high hills at a distance with gradual assents, I killed 3 deer the Timber confined to the bottoms as usual which is much larger than below. Great numbers of buffalow Elk and deer, Goats. Our hunters killed 10 deer and a goat today and wounded a white bear, I saw several fresh tracks of those animals which is 3 times as large as a mans track. The wind hard all Day from the N.E. and East, great numbers of buffalow Swimming the river I observe near all large gangues of buffalow wolves and when the buffalow move those animals follow, and feed on those that are killed by accident or those that are too pore or fat to keep up with the gangue.

October 21, 1804

At daylight it began to snow and continued until in the afternoon and the ground was covered. However, the party set out early and at about two miles saw an object of the Ricara superstition. It was a large oak tree standing alone in the open prairie. As it was alone, having withstood the fire which had consumed everything around it, the Indians naturally ascribed to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies was to make a hole in the skin of their necks through which a string was passed and the other end tied to the body of the tree. After remaining tied in this manner for some time they thought they became braver. At the distance of seven miles the party camped on the south and spent a cold night.

October 22, 1804

About seven o'clock they came upon a camp of 11 Sioux of the Teton tribe who were almost entirely naked having only a piece of skin or cloth around the waist, though members of the party were suffering from the cold. From their warlike appearance and from their giving two different accounts of themselves the party believed that they were either going to or returning from the Mandans to which nation the Sioux frequently made excursions to steal horses. As their conduct displeased the party, they were given nothing. At 12 miles camp was made on the south. The hunters brought in a buffalo bull and mentioned that of about 300 which they had seen there was not a single female. The beaver were plentiful here and the two Frenchmen caught several every night. Within a space of 20 miles the party passed nine deserted Mandan villages. All that remained of them were the walls which surrounded them, fallen heaps of earth which covered the houses 3 1 and occasionally human skulls and the teeth and bones of men and different animals scattered on the ground.

October 23, 1804

The party soon arrived at the five lodges where the two Frenchmen had been robbed, but the Indians had left shortly before as they found fires still burning. After making 13 miles they camped on the south. The next morning at about three miles they came upon a large island on which they found one of the grand chiefs of the Mandans who with five lodges was on a hunting excursion. He met his enemy the Ricara Chief with great ceremony and apparent cordiality and smoked with him. After visiting the lodges, the grand chief and his brother came aboard for a short time. The party proceeded and camped at seven miles from the last camp. Here four Mandans came down from a camp above and the Ricara Chief returned with them to their camp. The party looked favorably upon their pacific views toward each other.

October 24, 1804

Set out early. A cloudy day some little snow in the morning I am something better of the Rhumitism in my neck. A butifull countrey on both sides of the river. The bottoms covered with wood, we have seen no game on the river today – a prof of the Indans hunting in the neighbourhood I passed an I sland on the SS made by the river fcutting thoufha point, by which the river is shortened several miles. On this island we saw one of the grand chiefs of the mandins, with five loges hunting, this chief met the chief of the rivares who accompanied us with freat codiallity and serimony smoke the pipe and Capt. Lewis with the Interpeter went with the Chiefs to his Lodges at 1 mile distant, after his return we admitted the grand chief and his brother for a few minits on our boat. Proceeded on a short distance and camped on the SS below the old village of the Mandins and Ricares. Soon after our landing 4 mandins came from a camp above, the Ricares chief went with them to their camp.

October 25, 1804

As they proceeded several parties of Mandans both on foot and horseback came along the river to view them and were desirous that they land and talk to them. They could not do this on account of the sand breaks on the shore, but they sent the Ricara Chief ashore in a periogue. At the distance of 11 miles they landed. Here they were joined by the Ricara Chief who brought an Indian to camp where he remained all night. Clark wrote: 'We are told that the Sesux has latterly fallen in with and stole the horses of the Big Bellies (Grosventres), on their way home they fell in with the Ossiniboine who killed them and took their horses-a french man has latterly been killed by the Indians on the Track to the trading establishment on the Ossinebine R.'

October 26, 1804

The party set out early after putting the Ricara Chief on shore to join the Mandans who were in great numbers along it. They proceeded upstream to the camp of the grand chief four miles distant. Here the party met a Mr. Mc- Cracken, one of the Northwest or Hudson's Bay Company who arrived with another person about nine days previous to trade for horses and buffalo robes. Two of the chiefs came on board with some of their household furniture such as earthen pots and a little corn and went on up the river with the party. The rest of the Indians followed on shore. At four miles farther passed a bluff of coal of an inferior quality on the south. After covering 11 miles, they reached an old field where the Mandans had cultivated grain that summer, about half a mile below the first village of the Mandans.

As soon as they arrived a crowd of men, women and children came down to see them. Captain Lewis returned with the principal chiefs to the village while the others remained with the party during the evening. The object which surprised the Indians most was a corn-mill fixed to the boat which the party had occasion to use and the ease with which the grain was reduced to powder delighted them.

Among the visitors was the son of the grand chief of the Mandans who had his two little fingers cut off at the second joints. Upon inquiry into this accident they learned that it was customary to express grief for the death of relations by some corporal suffering and that the usual mode was to lose two joints of the little fingers or sometimes of the other fingers. Two of the party were 32 affected with rheumatic complaints.

October 27, 1804

At an early hour the party proceeded and anchored off the village. Captain Clark went on shore and after smoking a pipe with the chiefs was asked to remain and eat with them. Being ill he declined but his refusal gave great offense to the Indians who considered it disrespectful not to eat when invited until the cause was explained to their satisfaction. The party sent some tobacco ashore and then proceeded to the second village on the north, passed a bank containing coal, and camped at four miles opposite a village of Ahnahaways. Here they met a Frenchman named Jesseaume who lived among the Indians with his wife and children and who the party used as an interpreter. In the evening three young Indians were sent with a present of tobacco for the chiefs of the three upper villages, inviting them to come down the next morning to council.

October 28, 1804

A windy day, fair and clear. Many of the Grosvantres (or Big Bellies) and Water sones Came to See us and hear the Council. The wind being so violently hard from the S.W. prevented our going into council, (indeed the Chiefs of the Mandans from the lower village could not Cross, we made up the presents and entertained several of the curious chiefs whome, whished to see the boat which was verry curious to them viewing it as great medison, (whatever is mysterious or unintelligible is called great medicine) as they also viewed my black servent. The black cat grand chief of the Mandans, Capt. Lewis and myself with and KInterpeter walked up the river about 1 ½ miles our views were to examine the situation and timber for a fort, we found the situation good but the Timber scarce, or at lest small timber such as would (not) answer us, We consulted the grand chief in respect to the 12. George Drewyer cought 2 Beaver above our Camp last night, we had several presents from the woman of corn boil’d homney, soft corn etc. etc. I present a jar (eathern jar glazed) to the chiefs wife who receved it with much pleasure. Our men verry chearfull this evening. We sent the chiefs of the Mandans in his Village, and told them we would speek tomorrow.

October 29, 1804

Clark wrote, 'After Breakfast we were visited by the old Chief of the Big Bellies-this man was old and had transferred his power to his Sun.' Dr. Coues wrote of this quotation, 'which is the most credible solar myth ever penned by mortal hand.' At ten o'clock the chiefs were all assembled under an awning of sails stretched so as to exclude the wind which had become high. That the impression might be more forcible the party's men were all paraded and the council was opened and closed by a discharge from the swivel gun on the boat.

In the evening the prairie caught fire either by accident or design and burned with so great a fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames, that a man and woman were burned to death before they could reach a place of safety. Several other persons narrowly escaped destruction. Among the survivors was a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst of the flames. His safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit who had preserved him on account of his being white. A much more natural cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeing no hopes of carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, covering him with the fresh hide of a buffalo and escaped herself from the flames. As soon as the fire had passed she returned and found him untouched, the skin having prevented the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.

October 30, 1804

Captain Clark took a periogue and went up the river in search of a good wintering place. He returned after going seven miles. The want of wood and the scarcity of game up the river induced them to decide on fixing themselves lower down the river during the winter. The next day a second chief of the Mandans arrived with an invitation from the grand chief to come to his village where he wished to present some corn and speak to them. Captain Clark walked down to his village. The Mandan chief told the Captain that in order to show him that they wished peace with all men he would send a second chief and warriors to accompany the Ricara chief back to that nation and smoke with them. He added that he would go see his great father the President. Two of the steel traps stolen from the Frenchmen were then laid before the Captain and the women brought about twelve bushels of corn. Captain Clark made an answer to the speech and then returned to the boat.

October 31, 1804

A fine morning, The chief of the Mandans sent a 2nd Chief to invite us to his Lodge to recieve some corn and here what he had to say. I walked down, and with great ceremony was seeted on a roabe over me and after smokieing the pipe several old men around, the chief spoke.

Said he believed what we had told them, and that peace would be general, which not only gave him satisfaction but all his people, they now could hunt without fear, and there womin could work in the fields without looking every moment for the enemey, and put off their mockersons at night, (sign of peace undress) as to the Ricares we will show you that we wish peace with all, and do not make War on any without cause, that Chief – pointing to the 2nd and some brave men will accompany the ricare chief now with you to his villge and nation, to smoke with tha people, when you came up the Indians in the neighbouring villages, as well as those out hunting when they heard of you had great expectations of reveving presents. Those hunting immediately on hearing returned to the village and all was disappointed, and some dissatisfired, as to himself he was not much. So but his village was. He would go and see his great father etc. etc.

November 01, 1804

Mr. Hugh M'Cracken the trader set out this date on his return to the British fort and factory on the Assiniboin River, about 150 miles from this place. He took a letter from Captains Lewis and Clark to Charles Chaboillez of the Northwest Company inclosing a copy of the passport granted by the United States.

The next day, while Captain Lewis and Sergeant Gass and some of the men were at the Indian Village, Captain Clark went down the river 3 miles with the boats. Having found a good position where there was plenty of timber they camped and began to fell trees to build their huts. The Ricara chief set out with one Mandan chief and several Minnetaree and Mandan warriors.

November 02, 1804

This morning at Daylight I went down the river with 4 men to look for a proper place to winter proceeded down the river three miles & found a place well Supld. With wood, & returned, Captain Lewis went to the Village to here what they had to say & I fell down, and formed a Camp, near where a Small Campof Indians were hunting cut down the Trees around our Camp, in the evening Captain Lewis returned with a present of 11 bushels of Corn, our ricaree Chief Set out accompanied by one Chief (of Mandans) and Several Brave men (of Minitarees and Mandans), he called for Some small article which we had given (promised) but as I could not understand him he could not get it. The wind from the SE. A fine day. Maney Indians to view us to day.

November 03, 1804

The party began building their cabins and the Frenchmen who were to return to St. Louis were building a periogue for that purpose. Gass describes the structure as follows: 'The huts were in two rows, containing four rooms each, and joined at one end forming an angle. When raised about 7 feet high, a floor of puncheons or split plank were laid, and covered with grass and clay which made a warm loft. The upper part projected a foot over and the roofs were made shed-fashion, rising from the inner side, and making the outer wall about 18 feet high. The part not enclosed by the huts we intend to picket. In the angle formed by the row rows of huts we built two rooms, for holding our provisions and stores.

Six men were sent 30 or 40 miles down the river in a periogue to hunt. The services of a Canadian Frenchman, Lepage; who had been with the Cheyenne Indians on the Black mountains and last summer descended by the Little Missouri, were engaged. Mr. Jessaume, their interpreter, also came down with his squaw and children to live at the camp. That evening they were visited by an Indian named Little Raven whose wife accompanied him carrying about 60 pounds of dried meat, a robe and a pot of meal. They gave him in return a piece of tobacco; an ax and a few small articles were given to his wife.


During the next six days the building and hunting continued. On Nov. 10 a chief who was half Pawnee brought a present of a half a buffalo, in return he was given some small presents and a few articles for his wife and son. He then crossed the river in a buffalo skin canoe, his wife took the boat on her back and carried it to the village three miles off. The next day they received the visit of two squaws, Sacajawea and another, prisoners from the Rock (Rocky) Mountains purchased by Chaboneau.





Nov. 4 – A fine morning. We continued to cut Down trees and raise our houses, a Mr. Chaubonie, interpreter for the Gross Ventre nation Came to See us, and informed that the came Down with Several Indians from a hunting expiditoin up the river, to here what we had told the Indians in Council this man wished to hire as an interpiter, the wind rose this evening from the East & clouded up. Great numbers of Indians pass hunting and Some on the Return.





Nov. 5 – I rose verry early and commenced raising the 2 range of Huts. The timber large and heavy all to carry on on Hand Sticks, cotton wood & Elm Som ash Small, our Situation Sandy, great numbers of Indians pass to and from hunting a camp of Mandans, a fiew miles below us Cought within two days 100 Goats, by Driving them in a Strong pen, derected by a Bush fence widening from the pen. The greater part of this day Cloudy, wind moderate from the NW. I have the Rhumitism verry bad, Cap Lewis writeing all Day we are told by our interpreter that 4 Ossiniboins Indians, have arrived at the Camps of the Gross Venters, & 50 Lodges are Comeing.





Nov. 6 – Last night late we wer awoke by the Sergeant of the Guard to see a northern light, which was light, but not red, and appeared to Darken and Some times nearly obscured, and open, many times appeared in light Streeks, and at other times a great Space light & containing floating collomns which appeared to approach each other & retreat leaveing the lighter space at no time of the Same appearance.


This Morning I rose at Day light the Clouds to the North appeared black. At 8 o’clock the wind began to blow hard from the NW and Cold, and Continued al Day. Mr. Jo Gravelin our ricare interpreter Paul premor, Laguness, & 2 french Boys, who Came with us, Set out in a Small pirogue, on their return to the recare nation & the Illinois, Mr. Gravelin has instructions to take on the recares in the Spring. Continue to build the huts, out of Cotton Timber, this being the only timber we have.





Nov. 7 – A termperate day. We continued to building our hut, cloudy and foggey all day.





Nov. 8 – A cloudy morning. Jussome our Mandan inturpeter went to the Village, on his return he informed us that three English men had arrived from the Hudson Bay Company, and would be here tomorrow, we continued to build our huts, may Indians come to See us and bring their horses to Grass near us.





Nov. 9 – A verry hard frost this morning. We continue to build our Cabens, under many Disadvantages, Day cloudy wind from the NW. Several Indians pass with flying news reports, we got a white weasel, of an Indian. Capt. Lewis walked to the hill about ¾ of a mile. We are Situated in a point of the Missouri North Side in a Cotton wood Timber, this Timber is tall and heavy containing an imence quantity of water Britle & soft fine food for Horses to winter. The Mandans Graze their horses in the Day on Grass, and at night give them a Stick of Cotton wood to eate, Horses Dogs, & people all pass the night in the Same odge or round Houes, Covd. With earth with a fire in the middle. Great number of wild gees pass to the South, flew verry high.

November 03, 1804

The party began building their cabins and the Frenchmen who were to return to St. Louis were building a periogue for that purpose. Gass describes the structure as follows: 'The huts were in two rows, containing four rooms each, and joined at one end forming an angle. When raised about 7 feet high, a floor of puncheons or split plank were laid, and covered with grass and clay which made a warm loft. The upper part projected a foot over and the roofs were made shed-fashion, rising from the inner side, and making the outer wall about 18 feet high. The part not enclosed by the huts we intend to picket. In the angle formed by the row rows of huts we built two rooms, for holding our provisions and stores.

Six men were sent 30 or 40 miles down the river in a periogue to hunt. The services of a Canadian Frenchman, Lepage; who had been with the Cheyenne Indians on the Black mountains and last summer descended by the Little Missouri, were engaged. Mr. Jessaume, their interpreter, also came down with his squaw and children to live at the camp. That evening they were visited by an Indian named Little Raven whose wife accompanied him carrying about 60 pounds of dried meat, a robe and a pot of meal. They gave him in return a piece of tobacco; an ax and a few small articles were given to his wife.

During the next six days the building and hunting continued. On Nov. 10 a chief who was half Pawnee brought a present of a half a buffalo, in return he was given some small presents and a few articles for his wife and son. He then crossed the river in a buffalo skin canoe, his wife took the boat on her back and carried it to the village three miles off. The next day they received the visit of two squaws, Sacajawea and another, prisoners from the Rock (Rocky) Mountains purchased by Chaboneau.

November 04, 1804

A fine morning. We continued to cut Down trees and raise our houses, a Mr. Chaubonie, interpreter for the Gross Ventre nation Came to See us, and informed that the came Down with Several Indians from a hunting expiditoin up the river, to here what we had told the Indians in Council this man wished to hire as an interpiter, the wind rose this evening from the East & clouded up. Great numbers of Indians pass hunting and Some on the Return.

November 05, 1804

I rose verry early and commenced raising the 2 range of Huts. The timber large and heavy all to carry on on Hand Sticks, cotton wood & Elm Som ash Small, our Situation Sandy, great numbers of Indians pass to and from hunting a camp of Mandans, a fiew miles below us Cought within two days 100 Goats, by Driving them in a Strong pen, derected by a Bush fence widening from the pen. The greater part of this day Cloudy, wind moderate from the NW. I have the Rhumitism verry bad, Cap Lewis writeing all Day we are told by our interpreter that 4 Ossiniboins Indians, have arrived at the Camps of the Gross Venters, & 50 Lodges are Comeing.

November 06, 1804

Last night late we wer awoke by the Sergeant of the Guard to see a northern light, which was light, but not red, and appeared to Darken and Some times nearly obscured, and open, many times appeared in light Streeks, and at other times a great Space light & containing floating collomns which appeared to approach each other & retreat leaveing the lighter space at no time of the Same appearance.

This Morning I rose at Day light the Clouds to the North appeared black. At 8 o’clock the wind began to blow hard from the NW and Cold, and Continued al Day. Mr. Jo Gravelin our ricare interpreter Paul premor, Laguness, & 2 french Boys, who Came with us, Set out in a Small pirogue, on their return to the recare nation & the Illinois, Mr. Gravelin has instructions to take on the recares in the Spring. Continue to build the huts, out of Cotton Timber, this being the only timber we have.

November 07, 1804

A termperate day. We continued to building our hut, cloudy and foggey all day.

November 08, 1804

A cloudy morning. Jussome our Mandan inturpeter went to the Village, on his return he informed us that three English men had arrived from the Hudson Bay Company, and would be here tomorrow, we continued to build our huts, may Indians come to See us and bring their horses to Grass near us.

November 09, 1804

A verry hard frost this morning. We continue to build our Cabens, under many Disadvantages, Day cloudy wind from the NW. Several Indians pass with flying news reports, we got a white weasel, of an Indian. Capt. Lewis walked to the hill about ¾ of a mile. We are Situated in a point of the Missouri North Side in a Cotton wood Timber, this Timber is tall and heavy containing an imence quantity of water Britle & soft fine food for Horses to winter. The Mandans Graze their horses in the Day on Grass, and at night give them a Stick of Cotton wood to eate, Horses Dogs, & people all pass the night in the Same odge or round Houes, Covd. With earth with a fire in the middle. Great number of wild gees pass to the South, flew verry high.

November 10, 1804

Rose early. Continued to build our fort numbers of Indians came to See us. A chief Half Pania came & brought a Side ofa Buffalow, in return We Gave Some fiew small things to himself & wife & Son, he crossed the river in the Buffalow Skin Canoo & and, the Squar took the Boat and proceeded on to the town 3 miles. The day raw and cold wind from the NW, the Gees Continue to pass in gangues as also brant to the south, Some Ducks also pass.

November 11, 1804

A cold Day. Continued at work at the Fort. Two men cut themselves with an ax. Thelarge Ducks pass to the South an Indian gave me several roles of parched meat. Two Squars of the Rock mountains, purchased from the Indians by a renchmen came down. The Mandans out hunting the Buffalow.

November 12, 1804

Big White came down this date having packed on the back of 'his squaw about 100 pounds of very fine meat and in return the usual presents with an ax for the woman. The next day the boat was unloaded and the contents stored away in a storehouse which had been built. At half past ten ice began to float down river for the first time.

November 13, 1804

The Ice began to run in the river ½ past 10 o’clock PM. We rose early & unloaded the boat before brackfast except, the Cabin, & stored away in a Store house at 10 o’clock AM. The Black Cat the Mandin Chief and Lagree Che Chank a Chief & 7 men of note visited us at Fort Mandan, Igave him a twist of Tobacco to Smoke with his people & a Gold Cord, with a view to know him again, This nation consists of about 600 men, hunt in the Plains & winter and rade on the Ossirniboin River, they are decendants of the Seaux and Speake their language, they come to the nations in this quarter to trade or for horses. The Method of this Kind of Trafick by adoption Shall be explained hereafter, Snow’d all day, the Ice ran thick and air Cold.

November 14, 1804

About 70 lodges of Assiniboins and some Chippeways were at the Mandan village, as this being the day of adoption and exchange of property between them, accompanied by a dance, only two Indians were seen. A man (Drewyer) was sent down on horseback to see what had become of their hunters. As they apprehended a failure of provisions they had recoursed to pork this evening. Two Frenchmen who had been below returned with 20 beaver which they had caught in traps.

The next day the man came back with the information that their hunters were about 30 miles below. An order was sent immediately for them to make their way through the floating ice. Some tin for the bow of the periogue and a tow rope was sent to assist them. The Indian ceremony of the previous day seemed to continue as they were not visited by a single Indian.

November 15, 1804

A cloudy morning, the ice run much thicker than yesterday. At 10 o’clock G drewyer & the Frenchman we Dispatched yesterday came up from the Hunters, who is incamped about 30 miles below. After abou tone hour we Dispatched a man with orders to the hunters to proceed on without Delay thro the floating ice, wesent by the man Tin, to put on the parts of the Perogue exposed to the ice & a toe roape. The wind Changeable all hands work at their huts until 1 o’clock at night. Swans passing to the South – but fiew fowls to be Seen. Not one Indian came to our fort to day.

November 16, 1804

The men moved into the huts although they were not finished. Some horses were sent down to the woods near them this evening 35 to prevent their being stolen by the Assiniboins with whom difficulty was apprehended. An Indian came down with four buffalo robes and some corn which he offered for a pistol, but was refused. The next day they were totally occupied with their huts but received visits from several Indians.

November 17, 1804

A fine morning, last night was Cold, the ice thicker than yesterday, Several Indians visit us, one Chief Stayed all day we are much engaged about our huts.

November 18, 1804

This was a cold windy day. Black Cat came to see them and occupied a large part of the day with questions on the usages of the country east of the Mississippi. The next day the hunters arrived from their excursion below, bringing a very fine supply of: '32 Deer, 12 Elk and a Buffalo,' all of which were hung in a smokehouse. The huts were all completed and all moved in on Nov. 20. This place was named Fort Mandan, situated in a point of low ground, on the north side of the Missouri, covered with tall and heavy cottonwood. The distance was computed to be 1600 miles from the mouth of the Missouri.

November 19, 1804

A Cold day the ice continue to run. Our perouge of Hunters arrive with 32 deer, 12 Elk & a Buffalow, all of this meat we had hung up in a Smoke house, a timeley supply. Several little Indian anecdotes told me to day.

November 20, 1804

Cap Lewis & my Self move into our hut, a verry hard wind from the W. al the after part of the day a temperate day. Several Indians came Down to Eat fresh meat, three Chiefs from the 2nd Mandan Village Stay all Day, they are verry Curious in examining our works. Thoes Chiefs informs us that the Souex settled on the Missourie above Dog river, threten to attacked them this winter, and have treated 2 Ricares who carried the pipe of peace to them verry roughly, whipped & took their horses from them & is much displeased with the Ricares for making a peace with the Mandans through us, we gave them a Sattisfactory answer.

November 21, 1804

The party members were all settled in their new winter habitation and awaited with much anxiety the first return of spring to continue the journey. The inhabitants of the five Indian villages, all of which were within the distance of 6 miles, lived in harmony with one another. Their total strength was approximately 1000 warriors.

November 22, 1804

A quantity of corn of a mixed color was purchased from the Mandans. They dug it up in ears from holes made near the front of their lodges in which it was buried during the winter.

This morning the sentinel informed them that an Indian was about to kill his wife near the fort. Members of the party went down to the house of the interpreter and after forbidding any violence began an investigation.

They learned that some days before a quarrel had taken place between the husband and wife and she had run away from the. village and had taken refuge in the house where the two squaws of the interpreter lived. By running away she forfeited life, which might have been lawfully taken by the husband. About Nov. 20 she had returned to the village, but the same evening came back to the fort much beaten, stabbed in three places and the husband followed for the purpose of completing his revenge. He had loaned her to one of the sergeants for a night and stated that if the sergeant wanted her he would give her to him altogether.

It was directed by the party that no member have any dealings with this woman under penalty of punishment. Clark wrote... 'I directed Sergeant Ordway to give the man some articles, at which time I told the Indian I believed not one man of the party had touched his wife except the one he had given the use of her... at this time the grand chief arrived and lectured him and they both went off dissatisfied.'

The next two days members of the party were occupied in finishing their huts and making a large rope of elk-skin with which to draw their boat onto the bank.

November 23, 1804

A fair warm Day, wind from the SE. Send after Stone several men with bad colds, one man Shields with the Rhumistism. The river on a Stand having rose 4 inches in all.

November 24, 1804

A warm Day. Several men with bad colds. We continued to cover our Huts with hewed Punchins, finished a Cord to draw our boat out on the bank, this is made of 9 strans of Elk Skin, the wind from the SE.

November 25, 1804

Captain Lewis, accompanied by eight men, went on an excursion to the Indian village. A Minnetaree chief, the first to visit them, came down to the fort but as both the interpreters had gone with Captain Lewis, they were obliged to confine their civilities to some presents with which he was much pleased. The huts were not all complete and fortunately too, for the next day the wind shifted to the northwest and blew very hard with a keen, cold air which pre. vented the party from working.

November 26, 1804

A little before day light the wind shifted to the NW and blew hard and the air keen & cold all day, Cloudy and much the appearance of Snow; but little work done to day it being cold. Visited the upper camps of the big bellies and returned to the lower Camp & passed a second night.

November 27, 1804

Captain Lewis and party returned from the Indian village with two chiefs. They explained to the party that the reason for their not having come to see them was that the Mandans had told them that the party meant to combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the course of the winter. A suspicion increased by the strength of the fort and the circumstances of both the interpreters having moved there with their families. All of the Indians whom Captain Lewis had visited were very well disposed and received him with great kindness, except a principal chief of one of the upper villages named Horned Weasel, 'who did not chose to be seen by the Captain and left word that he was not at home etc.'

A Warning. In the course of the day seven of the Northwest Company's traders arrived from the Assiniboin River and one of their interpreters undertook to circulate among the Indians unfavorable reports; Captain Clark wrote in his diary: 'The principals Mr. Le Rock and Mr. McKensey were informed of the conduct of their interpreter and the Consiquincies if they did not put a Stop to unfavourable and ill founded assursions.'

The next day Black Cat and some warriors came down to visit with the party. They were entertained, given some presents and at departure were told that the party had heard of the British trader Mr. Laroch having attempted to distribute medals and flags among them; but that those emblems could not be received with- out incurring the displeasure of their great father, the President. They left much pleased with their treatment.

November 28, 1804

A cold morning wind from the NW. River full of floating ice, began to snow at 7 o’clock AM and continued all day. At 8 o’clock the Poss-coos-so-he or Black Cat Grand Chief of the Mandans came to seeus, after showing htos Chiefs many things which was Curiossities to them, and Giving a fiew presents of Curious Handkerchiefs arm bands & paint with a twist of Tobacco they departed at 1 o’clock much pleased, at parting we had some little talk on the Subject of the British Trader M. Le rock Giving meadels & Flags, and told those Chiefs to impress it on the minds of their nations that those simbiles were not to be receved by any from them, without they wished to incur the displeasure of their

November 29, 1804

Mr. Laroche, the principal of the seven traders, came with one of his men and was told that the party would not permit him to give medals and flags to the Indians. He declared that he had no such intentions. He was allowed to use one of the party's interpreters upon his stipulating not to touch upon any subject but that of his traffic with them. An unfortunate accident occurred to Sergeant Pryor who in taking down the boat's mast dislocated his shoulder. After four trials his shoulder was replaced.

November 30, 1804

About eight o'clock an Indian came to the opposite bank of the river calling out that he had something important to communicate. Upon sending for him he told the party that five Mandans had been met about eight leagues to the southwest by a party of Sioux who had killed one of them, wounded two and taken nine horses; that four of the Wattasoon nation were missing and that the Mandans expected an attack. Captains Lewis and Clark thought this an excellent opportunity to discredit the injurious reports against them and fix the wavering confidence of the nation. Clark wrote: 'We thought it well to show a Dispostion to ode and assist them against their enemies, particularly those who came in opposition to our councils; and I determined to go to the town with some men, and if the Sioux were coming to attack the nation to collect the worriers from each village and meet them, those Ideas were also those of Captain Lewis.'

A Council of War. Captain Clark therefore instantly crossed the river with 23 men strongly armed and circling the village approached it from the rear. His unexpected appearance surprised and alarmed the chiefs who came out to meet him and conducted him to the village. He then told them of having heard of the outrage just committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children and that if they would assemble their warriors and those of the nation he would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the blood of their countrymen.


After some minutes' conversation the Cheyenne Chief arose: 'We now see,' said he, 'that what you have told us is true, since as soon as our enemies threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are ready to chastise those who have spilt our blood. We did indeed listen to your good talk, for when you told us that the other nations were inclined to peace with us, we went carelessly in small parties and some have been killed by the Sioux and Ricaras. But I knew that the Ricaras were liars and I told the chief who accompanied you that his whole nation were liars and bad men; that we had several times made a peace with them which they were the first to break; that whenever we pleased we might shoot them like buffalo, but we had no wish to kill them; that we would not suffer them to kill us nor steal our horses; and that although we agreed to make peace with them because our two fathers (Lewis and Clark) desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be faithful long. Such, Father, was my language to them in your presence and you see that instead of listening to your good counsels they have spilt our blood. A few days ago two Ricaras came here and told us that two of their villages were making moccasins, that the Sioux were stirring them up against us and that we ought to take care of our horses; yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news reached us today lest our people should kill them in the first moment of grief for their murdered relatives. Four of the Wattasoons whom we expected back in 16 days have been absent 24 and we fear have fallen. But father the snow is now deep, the weather cold and our horses cannot travel through the plains; the murderers have gone off. If you will conduct us in the spring when the snow has disappeared we will assemble all the surrounding warriors and follow you.'


Captain Clark replied that they were always willing and able to defend them and that he was sorry the snow prevented their marching since he wished to show the Sioux that the warriors of their great father would chastise the enemies of his obedient children; that if some Ricaras had joined the Sioux they should remember that there were bad men in every nation and that they should not be offended at the Ricaras till they saw whether these ill-disposed men were countenanced by the whole tribe. After two hours conversation Captain Clark left the village. The chief repeatedly thanked him for the fatherly protection, observing that the whole village had been weeping all night and day for the brave young men who had been slain, but now they would wipe their eyes and weep no more as they saw that their father would protect them. Captain Clark then crossed the river on the ice and returned to the north side to the fort.

December 01, 1804

The whole party engaged in picketing the fort. In the evening they were visited by a Mr. G. Henderson who came from the Hudson's Bay Company to trade with the Indians. He had been about eight days on his route in a direction nearly south and brought with him tobacco, beads and other merchandise to trade for furs and a few guns to exchange for horses. The next five days passed without incident. The weather was cold and disagreeable.

December 02, 1804

The latter part of last night was verry warm and continued to thaw until [blank in MS] o Clock. When the wind shifted to the northat 11 o clock the chiefs of the Lower village of the Mandans [came] with many of theire young men and 4 of the Shar-ha’s who had come to smoke with the pipe of Peace with the Mandans, we explained to them our intentions our views and advised them to be at peace, Gave them a flag for theire nation, Some Tobacco with a Speech to Dilever to their nation on theire return, also Semnd by them a letter to Mrs. Tabbo and Gravoline, at the Ricares Village, to interseed in proventing Hostilities, and if they could not effect those measures to send and inform us of what was going on, stateing to the Indians the part we intend to take if the Ricores and Seauex did not forllow our derections and be at peace with the nations which we had adopted. We made Some fiew small presents to those Shar-ha’s and also some to the Mandans and at 3 oclock they all Departed well pleased, having seen many curesostties, which we showed them. River rise one inch.

December 03, 1804

A fine morning the after part of the day cold and windey the wind from the NW. The father of the Mandan who was killed came and made us a present of some dried simnins (pumpkins) and a little pimecon, (pemitigon) We made him some small preasents for which he was most pleased.

December 04, 1804

A cloudy raw Day wind from the NW The black cat and two young chiefs visit us and as usual stay all day. The river rise one inch. Fini[s]h the main bastion, our iterpet (Jessaume) we discover to be assumeing and discontented.

December 05, 1804

A cold raw morning wind from the SE. Some snow, two of the NW company came to see us, to let us know they intended to set out for the establishment on the ossisnnibion River in two days. And their party would consist of 5 men, Several Indians also visited us one brought Pumpkins or simnins as a present. A little snow fell in the evening at which time the wind shifted round to NE.

December 06, 1804

The wind blew violently hard from the NNW with some snow the air keen and cold. The thermometer at 8 oclock AM stood at 10dgs. Above 0. At 9 oclock a man and his squar came down with some meat for the interpreter his dress was a par mockersons of buffalow skin and Pr. Legins of goat skin and a buffalow robe, 14 ring of brass on his fingers, this noon river rise 1 ½ inch today.

Capt. Clark Set out with a hunting party. Killed 8 buffalow and returned next day.

December 07, 1804

Big White, the Chief of the lower village, came to inform the party that buffalo were near and that his people were waiting for them to join in the chase. Captain Clark with 15 men went out and found the Indians engaged in killing buffalo. The hunters mounted on horseback and arrived with bows and arrows, encircled the herd and gradually drove them into a plain or open place for the movements of horses. They then rode in among them and singled out a buffalo, preferably a female, and got as close as possible and wounded her with arrows until they thought they had given the mortal stroke; then pursued another until their supply of arrows was exhausted. If, which rarely happened, the wounded buffalo attacked the hunter, he evaded his blow by the agility of his horse which was trained for the combat with great dexterity. After the kill the game was collected and the squaws and attendants came up from the rear to skin and dress the animals. Captain Clark killed ten buffalo of which only five were brought in; the rest being seized by the Indians among whom the custom was that a buffalo found dead without an arrow or any particular mark is the property of the finder. Whatever was left out at night fell to the share of the wolves who were the constant and numerous attendants of the buffalo.

December 08, 1804

The thermometer stood at 12° below zero with a northwest wind. Captain Lewis with 15 men went out to hunt buffalo which were in such great numbers that they darkened the prairies for considerable distance. They did not return until after dark, having killed eight buffalo and one deer, The snow was generally $ or 8 inches deep and in some places 18, in consequence of which two of the party were hurt by falls and several had their feet frostbitten. The next day continued cold and Captain Clark went out with 18 men to bring in the meat they had killed the day before.

December 09, 1804

The Thermometer stood this morning at 7 degrees above 0, wind from the E. Capt Lewis took 18 men and 4 horses (3 hired 1 bought) and went out [to] send in the meet killed yesterday and kill more, The sun shown today clear, bothe interpreters went to the villages today. At 12 oclock 2 chiefs came loaded with meat, one with a dog and slay also loaded with meat, Capt. Lewis sent 4 horses loaded with meat, he continued at the hunting camp near which they killed 9 buffalow.

December 10, 1804

Captain Clark came in at twelve o'clock. After killing nine buffalo and preparing those already dead, he had spent a cold disagreeable night on the snow with no covering but a small blanket sheltered by the hides of the buffalo they had killed. The thermometer stood between 10° and 11° below zero. The next day was so intensely cold that they sent for all hunters who had remained out with Captain Clark's party and they returned in the evening with several frost-bitten. The thermometer at sunrise stood at 21° below zero. The following morning, December 12, it was 38° below zero. The extreme cold continued until the 19th when the weather moderated enough so that they were able to continue picketing the fort.

December 11, 1804

A verry cold morning wind from the north. The thermometer at 4 oclock AM at 21 degrees [sunrise at 21 degrees] below 0 which is 53 degrees. Below the freesing point and getting colder, the sun shows and reflects two imigies, the ice floating in the atmospear being so thich that the appearance is like a fog despurceing.

Sent out three horses for meat and with derections for all the hunters to return to the fort as soon as possible. At 1 oclock the horses returned loaded, at night all the hunters returned, Several a little froted, The black cat chief of the Mandans paid us a visit today, continue cold all day river at a stand.

December 12, 1804

A Clear cold morning wind from the north the Thermometer at sun rise stood at 38 degrees below 0. Moderated until 6 oclock at which time it began to get colder. I line my gloves and have a cap made of the skin of the Louservia (Lynx) (or wild cat orf the north) The fur near 3 inches long, A indain of the Shoe (Maharha or Mocassin) nation came with the half of a cabra ko ka or Antilope which he killed near the For. Great numbers of those animals are near our fort (so that they do not all return to rock mountain goat) but the weather is so cold that we do not think it prudent to turn out to hunt in such cold weather, or at least until our sonsts. Are prepared to under go this Climate. I measure the river from bank to bank on the ice and make it 500 yards.

December 13, 1804

The last night was verry clear and the frost which fell covered the ice old snow and those parts which was naked 1/6 of an inch, The thermometer stands this morning at 20 degrees below 0. A fine day. Find it imposible to make an observation with an artificial horrison. Joseph Fields kill a cow and calf today, one mile from the fort. River fall.

December 14, 1804

A fine morning. Wind from the SE. The murckerey stood at 0 this morning. I went with a party of men down the river 18 miles to hunt buffalow, Saw two bulls too pore to kill, the cows and large gangues having left the river, we only killed two deer and camped all night with some expectation of seeing the buffalow in the morning, a verry cold night, Snowed.

December 15, 1804

A cold clear morning, Saw no buffalow, I concluded to return to the fort and hunt on each side of the river on our return which we did without success. The snow fell 1 ½ inches deep last night. Wind North. On my return to the for found several chiefs there.

December 16, 1804

A clear cold morning, the thermtr. At sun rise stood at 22 degrees below 0. A verry signaler appearance of the moon last night, as she appeared thro: the frosty atmispear. Mr. Henny from the Establishment on the River Ossinniboin, with a letter from, Mr. Charles Chaboillez one of the Co. arrived in 6 dys, Mr. C. in his letter expressed a great anxiety tto serve us in anything in his power.

Mr. LeRock a clerk, of the NW. Company and Mr. George Bunch a clerk of the Hudsons beey compy accompanied Mr. Henry from the village.

December 17, 1804

A verry cold morning the Thmt. Stood at 45 degrees below 0. We found Mr. Henny a verry intelligent man from home we obtained some scetches of the countrey between the Mississippi and Missouri, and some sketches from him, which he had obtained from the Indins. To the West of this place also the namew and charecktors of the Seeaux etc. About 8 oclock the Indian Chiefs sent word that buffalow was in our neibourhood, and if wewould join them, in the morning they would go kill them.

December 18, 1804

The Themometer the Same as last night. Mrs. Haney & La Rocke left us for the Grossventre Camp, sent out 7 men to hunt for the Buffalow they found the weather too cold & returned, Several Indians Came, who had Set out with a view to kill Buffalow, the river rise a little. I imploy my Self making a small Map of Connextion &c. Sent Jessomme to the Main Chief of the mandans to know the Cause of his detaining or takeing a horse of Chabone our big belly interpreter, which we found was thro: the rascality of one Lafrance a trader from the NW. Company, who told this Chief that Chabonat owd. Him a horse to go and take him he done So agreeable to an Indian Custom. He gave up the horse.

December 19, 1804

The Wind from the SW the weather moderated a little, I engage my self in Connecting the countrey from information. River rise a little.

December 20, 1804

The wind from the NW a moderate day, the Thermometer 37 above 0, which gives an opportunity of putting up our pickets in the river, nothing remarkable took b=place to Day river fall a little.

December 21, 1804

The Indian who had been prevented from killing his wife came with both his wives to the fort with the desire to reconcile their interpreter the jealousy aroused on account of his wife's taking refuge in 3 9 his house. A woman brought a child with an abscess in the lower part of the back and offered as much corn as she could carry for some medicine which was cheerfully administered. The next three days the fort was visited by crowds of Indians of all descriptions who came either to trade or from mere curiosity and finally became troublesome. As a present to three of the chiefs they divided a small piece of sheepskin, which they had brought along for sponging, into three pieces, each two inches in width. They were delighted at the fight which they deemed of equal value with a fine horse.

December 22, 1804

Worm. A number of Squars & men Dressed in Squars Clothes Came with Corn to Sell to the men for little things, We procured two horns of the animale the French Call the rock Mountain Sheep. Those horns are not of the largest kind. The Mandans Indians Call this Sheep Ar-Sar-ta. It is about the Size of a large Deer, or Small Elk, its Horn Come out and wind around the head like the horn of a Ram and the tecture not unlike it much larger and thicker, perticelarly that part with which they butt or outer part which is inchs thick, the length of those horns, which we have is.

December 23, 1804

A fine Day. Great numbers of Indians of all descriptions came to the fort many of them bringing corn to trade, the little Crow, loaded his wife & Sun with Corn for us, Captain Lewis gae him a few presents as also his wife, She made a kittle of boiled Cimnins, beens, Corn & Choke Cheries with the Stones, which was palatable. This Desh is Considered, as a treat among those people, the Chiefs of the Mandans are fond of stayin’ & sleeping in the fort.

December 24, 1804

Several Chiefs and numbers of Men Womin and Children at the for to Day, some for trade, the most as looker on, we gave a fellet of Sheep Skin (which we brought for Spunging) to 3 Chiefs one to each of 2 inches wide, on which they lay Great value (priseing those felets equal to a fine horse), a fine Day we finished the pickengen around our works.

December 25, 1804

They had told the Indians not to visit them this day as it was one of their great medicine days. The American flag was hoisted for the first time in the fort. The best provisions were brought out and this with a little brandy enabled them to pass the day in great festivity. No Indians came to see them the following day.

December 26, 1804

A temperate day no Indians to day or yesterday. A man from the NW. Company Came Down from the Gross Ventres to get one of our intereters to assist them in trade. This man informed that the Party of Gross Ventres who persued the Assiniboins that Stold their horses, had all returned in their useal way by Small parties, the last of the party bringing 8 horses which they stole from a Camp of Assiniboins which they found on Mouse River.

December 27, 1804

The party was fortunate enough to have among the men a good blacksmith whom they put to work making a variety of articles. His operations seemed to surprise the Indians who came to see them, but nothing could equal their astonishment at the bellows which they considered as very great medicine.
The next day it began to get colder and continued for the next three days. The wind drifted the snow in great quantities through the plains.

December 28, 1804

Blew verry hard last night, the frost fell like a Shower of Snow, nothing remarkable to day, the Snow Drifting form one bottom to another and from the leavel plains into the hollows.

December 29, 1804

The frost fell last night nearly a ¼ of an inch Deep and Continud to fall until the Sun was of Some hite, the Murcury Stood this morning at 9 below 9 which is not considered Cold, as the Changes take place gradually without long intermissions. A number of Indians here.

December 30, 1804

Cold the Termtr. At 20 below 0. A number of Indinas here to da they are much Supprised at the Bellows one Deer Killed.

December 31, 1804

A find day. Some wind last night which Mixed the Snow and Sand in the bead of the river, which as the appearance of hillocks of Sand on the ice, which is also Covered with Sand & Snow, the frost which falls in the night, Continues on the erath & old Snow &c. A number of Indians here every Day. Our blacksmith mending their axes hoes for which the Squars bring Corn for payment.

January 01, 1805

The new year was welcomed by two shots from the swivel gun and a round of small arms. The mercury rose to 34° during the day but dropped to zero that evening. In the morning 16 men were permitted with their music to go up to the first village where they delighted the whole tribe with their dances, particularly with movements of one of the Frenchmen who danced standing on his hands. In return they presented the dancers with several buffalo robes and quantities of corn. They were desirous of showing this attention to the village because they had received the impression that the party had been wanting in regard for them, and because they had circulated invidious comparisons between members of the party and the northern traders. During the next day the same scene of gayety was renewed at the second village and all the men returned in the evening. Gass wrote: 'This day I discovered how the Indians keep their horses during the winter. In the day time they are permitted to run out and gather what they can; and at night are brought into the lodges, with the natives themselves, and fed on cottonwood branches; and in this way are kept in tolerable case.' January 3rd and 4th were spent hunting without success.

January 02, 1805

A Snowey morning, a party of Men go to Dance at the 2nd Village to Dance, Capt. Lewis and the interptr. Visit the 2nd Village, and return in the evening, Some show to day Verry cold in the evening.

January 03, 1805

Some Snow to day, 8 men go to hunt the buffalow, killed a hare & wolf. Several Indians visit us to day & a Gross Ventre came after his wife, who had been much abused, & came here for Protection.

January 04, 1805

A worm Snowey Morning, the Thermtr. At 28 above 0, Cloudy, Sent out 3 men to hunt down the river, Several Indians Came to day, the little Crow, who has proved friendly Came, we gave him a handkerchf & 2 files, in the evening the weather became cold and windey, wind from the NW. I am Verry unwell the after part of the Day.

January 05, 1805

In the first village there had been a buffalo-dance for the past three nights which had put them all into commotion and the description from those of the party who visited the village and from other sources it is not a little ludicrous. The buffalo-dance was an institution originally intended for the benefit of the old men and practiced at their suggestion. When buffalo became scarce they sent a man to harangue the village declaring the game is far off and that a feast is necessary to bring them back; if the village be disposed a day and place is named for the celebration.

At the appointed hour the old men arrive and seat themselves crosslegged on skins around a fire in the center of the lodge with a sort of doll or small image, dressed like a female, placed before them. The young men bring with them a platter of provisions, pipe of tobacco and their wives whose dress on this occasion is only a robe or mantle loosely thrown around the body. On their arrival each youth selects the old man whom he means to distinguish by his favor and spreads before him the provisions after which he presents the pipe and smokes with him.

Indian Endurance of Cold. During the next four days the weather was cold. Captain Clark, with three or four men and a party of Indians, went out to hunt on January 9th and were fortunate enough to kill a number of buffalo; but they were handicapped by snow, high winds and the extreme cold. Several of the Indians came to the fort nearly frozen, others were missing and the party was uneasy for one of their men who was separated from the rest during the chase and had not returned. The next morning he came in just as they were sending out five men to search for him. The night had been excessively cold for at sunrise the mercury stood at 40° below zero. He had made a fire and kept himself from freezing.

A young Indian about 13 years of age came in soon after. His father came the night before to inquire after him as he had sent him the afternoon before to the fort. He was overtaken by night and was obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of antelope skin moccasins and leggings and a buffalo robe. His feet being frozen they put them into cold water. About the same time an Indian who had also been missing returned to the fort. Although his dress was very thin he had slept on the snow without a fire and had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. They observed that those Indians supported the rigors of the season in a way which they had hitherto thought impossible. The cold weather continued until January 26th.

January 06, 1805

A cold day. But fiew Indians to day I am ingaved as yesterday.

January 07, 1805

A verry cold clear Day. The Themtr. Stood at 22 degrees. Below o Wind NW., the river fell 1 inch. Several Indians returned from hunting, one of them the Big White Chief of the Lower Mandan Village, Dined with us, and gave me a Scetch of the Countrey as far as the high Mountains, & on the South side of the River Rejone, he Says that the river rejone recvees 6 small rivers on the S. Side, & that the Countrey is verry hilley and the greater part Covered with timber Great numbers of beaver &c. The 3 men returned from hunting, they killed, 4 Der & 2 Wolves, saw buffalow a long ways off. I continue to Draw a connected plot from the information of traders, Indians & my own observation & ideas. From the best information, the great falls is about 800 miles nearly West.

January 08, 1805

A cold Day. But fiew Indians at the fort to day. Wind from the NW. One man at the village.

January 09, 1805

A cold day. Themometer at 21 below 0, great numbers of Indians go to kill cows. The little Crow Brackft. With us, Several Indians call at the fort nearly frosed, one man reported that he had Sent his Son a Small boy to the fort about 3 o’clock, & was much distressed at not finding him here, the after part of this day verry Cold, and wind keen.

January 10, 1805

Last night was excessively Cold the Murkery this morning Stood at 40 below 0 which is 72 below the freesing point, we had one man out last night, who returned about 8 o’clock this morning. The Indians of the lower Village turned out to hunt for a man & a boy who had not returned from the hunt of yesterday, and borrow’d a Slay to bring them in expecting to find them frosed to death. About 10 o’clock the boy about 13 years of age Came to the fort with his feet frosed and had layed out last night without fire with only a Buffalow Robe to Cover him, the Dress which he wore was a pr. Of Cabra Legins, which is verry htin and mockersons we had his feet put in cold water and they are Comeing too. Soon after the arrival of the Boy, a Man Came in who had also Stayed out without fire, and verry thinly Clothed, this man was not the least injured. Customs & the habits of those people has anured them to bare more Cold than I thought it possible for man to endure. Sent out 3 men to hunt Elk below about 7 miles.

January 11, 1805

Verry cold, Send out 3 men to join 3 now below & hunt, Pose-cop se ha or Black Cat. Came to see us and Stay all night.

Shot a har ro ra or Coal also stayd. All night, theinturpiter oldst wife Sick, Some of our Men go to See a War Medeson made at the Village on the opposite Side of the river, this is a.

January 12, 1805

A verry Cold Day. Three of our hunters J & R Fields with 2 Elk on a Slay. Sent one more hunter out.

January 13, 1805

A Cold Clear Day (great number of Indians move Down the River to hunt) those people Kill a Number of Buffalow ear their Villages and Save a great perpotoin of the Meat, theer Custom of making this article of life General leaves them more than half of their time without meat. Their Corn & beans they keep for the Summer, and as a reserve in Case of an attack from the Soues, of which they are always in dread, and Sildom go far to hunt except in large parties, about ½ the Mandans nation passed this to day to hunt on the river below, they will Stay out some Days, Mr. Chabonee and one man that accompanied him to Some loges of the Menatarrees near the Turtle Hill returned, both frosed in their faces. Chaboneu informs that the Clerk of the Hudson Bay Co. with the Me ne tar res has been Speaking Some fiew expresns. Unfavourable towards us, and that it is Said the NW Co: intends building a fort at the Mene tar res. He saw the grand Chief of the Big bellies who Spoke Slightly of the Americans, Saying if we would give our great flag to him he would Come to See us.

January 14, 1805

This morning early a number of Indians men women children Dogs passed down on the ice to joine those that passed yesterday, we Sent Sergt. Pryor and five men with those Indians to hunt (Several men with the Veneraeal cought from the Mandan women) one of our hunters Sent out Several days ago arrived & informs that one Man (Whitehouse) is frost bit and Can’t walk home.

January 15, 1805

Between 12 & 3 o’clock this Morning we had a total eclips of the Moon, a part of the observations necessary for our purpose in this eclips we got.

January 16, 1805

About thirty Mandans came to the fort to day, 6 chiefs. Those me net a rees told them they were liars, had told them if they Came to the fort the whites men would kill them, they had been with them all night, Smoked in the pipe and have been treated well and the whites ahd danced for them, observeing the Mandans were bad and ought to hide themselves. One of the 1st War Chiefs of the big bellies nation Came to see us to day with one man and his Squar to wate him. We Shot the Air gun, and gave two Shots with the Cannon which pleased them verry much, the little Crow 2nd chief of the lower village came & brought us Corn. 4 men of ours who had been hunting returned one frosted.

This War Chief gae us a Chart in his Way of the Missourie, he informed us of his intentions of going to War in the Spring against the Snake Indians. We advised him to look back at the number of Nations who had been destroyed by War, and reflect upon what he was about to do, observing if he wished the happiness of his nation, he would be at peace with all, by that by being at peace and having plenty of goods amongst them & a free intercourse with those defenceless nations, they would get on easy tirms a greater number of horses, and that Nation would increase, if hewent to War against those Defenceless people, he would displease his great father, and he would not receive that pertection & care from him as other nations who listened to his word. This Chief who is a young man 26 year old replied that if his going to war against the Snake Indians would be displeasing to us he would not go, he had horses enough.

We observed that what we had said was the words of his great father, and what we had Spoken to all Nations which we Saw on our passage up, they all promis to open their ears, and we do not know as yet if any of them has Shut them. If they do not attend to what we have told them their great father will open their ears. This Chief Said that he would advise all his nation to stay at home until we Saw the Snake Indians & Knew if they would be friendly, he himself wuld attend to what we had told him.

January 17, 1805

A verry Windey morning hard from the North Thermomiter at 0, Several Indians here to day.

January 18, 1805

A fine worm morning, Mr. La Rock and McKinzey Came down to See us with htem Several of the Grosse Ventres

January 19, 1805

A fine Day. Messrs. Le Rock & McKinzey returned home, Sent three horses down to our hunting Camp for the meet they had killed, Jussomes Squar, left him and went to the Village.

January 20, 1805

A Cold fair day. Several Indians at the fort to day a Missunderstanding took place between two inurpeters on account of their Squars, One of the Squares of Shabowner Squars being sick, I ordered my servent to give her Some froot Stewed and tee at dift. Times which was the cause of the missundstd.

January 21, 1805

A number of Indians here to day a fine day nothing remarkable. One ban man verry bad with the pox.

January 22, 1805

A find warm Day. Attempted to cut the Boat & pirogues out of the Ice, found water at about 8 inches under the 1st Ice, the next thickness about 3 feet.

January 23, 1805

A Cold Day. Snow fell 4 Inches deep, the accurancies of this day is as is common.

January 24, 1805

A fine day, our inturpeters appear to understantd each other better than a fiew days past. Sent out Several hunters, they returned without killing any thing, Cut Coal wood.

January 25, 1805

We are informed of the arrival of a Band of assniboins at the Villages with the Grand Chief of those Tribes Caled the Fee de petite veau to trade, one of our interpreters & one man Set out to the Big Belley Camp opposite the Island, men employ’d in cutting the boat out of the ice, and collecting coal wood.

January 26, 1805

A verry fine warm day. Several Indians dine with us and are much Pleased. One man taken violently Bad with the Plurisie, Bleed & apply those remedies Common to that disorder.

January 27, 1805

Another warm and pleasant day. They again attempted to get the boat out of the ice. A member of the party who had the pleurisy was 'blooded and sweated, and we were forced to take off the toes of the young Indian who was frost-bitten.' They planned to cut the boat through the ice the next day but colder weather caused them to abandon the plan. The following day, Jan. 29th, they heated a quantity of stones so as to warm the water in the boat and thaw the surrounding ice, but in this too they were disappointed as all the stones on being put into the fire cracked into pieces.

January 28, 1805

Attemptto Cut through the ice to get our Boat and Canoo out without Suckcess, Several Indians here wishing to get War hatchets made the man sick yesterday is getting well. Mr. Jessome our interpiter was taken verry unwell this evening. Worm day.

January 29, 1805

Gave Jassome a Dost of Salts. We send & collect stones and put them on a large log heap to heet them with a view of worming water in the Boat and by that maeans, Sepperate her from the Ice, our attempt appears to be defeated by theStones all breaking and flying to peaces in the fire, a fine worm Day, we are now burning a large Coal pit, to mend the Indians hatchets, & make them war axes, the only means by which we procure Corn from them.

January 30, 1805

Mr. Laroche the trader from the Northwest Company paid a visit in hopes of being able to accompany the expedition on its westward journey but his proposal they thought best to decline. He remained at the fort until February 2nd trying to persuade the party to take him along. February 3 the party occupied themselves in making iron spikes so as to pry the boat up by means of long poles. They had been disappointed in all their previous efforts to free the boats from the ice.

January 31, 1805

Snowed last night, wind high from the NW. Sawed off the boys toes. Sent 5 men down the river to hunt with 2 horses, our interpreter something better, George Drewyer taken with the Pleurisy last evening Bled & gave him Some Sage tea, this morning he is much better. Cold disagreeable Day.

February 01, 1805

A cold windey Day. Our hunters returned having killed only one Deer, a War Chief of the Me ne tar ras came wit some Corn requested to have a War hatchet made, & requested to be allowed to go to war against the Soues & Recarres who had Killed a Mandan some time past. We refused, and gave reasons, which he verry readily assented to, and promised to open his ears to all We said this man is young and named Mar book, she ah O ke ah. This mans Woman set out nad he prosued her, in the evening.

February 02, 1805

A fine day, one deer killed our interpreter still unwell, one of the wives of the Big belley interpetr. Sick. Mr. Larocke leave us today and is verry anxious to accompany us.

February 03, 1805

A fine day; the blacksmith again commences his operations. We were visited by but few of the natives today. The situation of our boat and pirogues is now alarming, they are firmly inclosed in the Ice and almost covered with snow – the ice which incloses them lyes in several stratas of unequal thicknesses which are separated by streams of water. This is peculiarly unfortunate because so soon as we cut through the first strata of ice the water rushes up and rises as high as the upper surface of the ice and thus creates such a debth of water as renders it impracticable to cut away the lower stra which appears firmly attached to, and confining the bottom of the vessels. The instruments we have hitherto used has been the ax only, with which, we have made several attempts that proved unsuccessfull from the cause above mentioned. We then determined to attempt freeing them from the ice by means of boiling water which we purposed heating in the vessels by means of hot stones, but this expedient proved also fruitless, as every species of stone which we culd procure in the neighborhood partook so much of the calcarious genus that they burst into small particles on being exposed to the heat of the fire. We now determined as the dernier resort to prepare a parsel f Iron spkies and attatch them to the end of small poles of convenient length and endeavour by means of them to free the vessels from the ice. We have already prepared a large rope of Elk-skin and a windless b means of which we have no doubt of being able to draw the boat on the bank provided we can free it from the ice.

February 04, 1805

The stock of meat they had procured in November and December was nearly exhausted and it became necessary to renew their supply. Captain Clark, therefore 4 1 with 18 men, two sleighs and three horses descended the river for the purpose of hunting, as the buffalo had disappeared from the neighborhood and the Indians were suffering for want of meat. Gass was on this trip which he summarizes: 'We proceeded on 20 miles and could see no game. The 5th we proceeded on to some Indian camps and there we killed three deer. The next day we went on to more Indian camps and killed some deer. On the 7th we camped on a bottom on the south side of the Missouri and the next day turned out to hunt. We killed 10 elk and 18 deer and remained there all night. On the 9th we built a pen to secure our game from the wolves which are very numerous here; and in the evening went farther down and encamped. The next morning we set out on our return toward the fort and killed some elk and deer on our way. On the 12th we arrived at the fort and found that one of the interpreter's wives (Sacajawea) had in our absence made an addition to our number.' Captain Lewis said of Sacajawea's baby, 'A fine boy. This little volunteer recruit joined the expedition and was brought back safe from the Pacific Coast by one of the best of mothers.'

February 05, 1805

Pleasant morning. Wind from NW fair; visited by many of the natives who brought a considerable quantity of corn in payment for the work which the blacksmith had done for them. They are percularly attatched to a battle ax formed in a very inconvenient manner in my opinion. It is fabricated of iron only, the blade is extremely thin, from 7 to nine inches in length and from 4 ¾, to 6 inches on it’s edge, from whence the sides proceed nearly in a straight line to the eye where it’s width is generally not more than an inch. The eye is round & about one inch in diameter, the handle seldom more than fourteen inches in length, the whole weighing about one pound. The great length of the blade of this ax, added to the small size of the handle renders a stroke uncertain and easily avoided, while the shortness of the handel must render a blow much less forceable if even well directed, and still more inconvenient as they uniformly use this instrument in action on horseback. The older fasion is still more inconvenient, it is somewhat in the form of the blade of an Espantoon but is attatched to a helve of the dementions before described. The blade is sometimes by way of ornament perforated with two, three or more small circular holes.

February 06, 1805

Fair morning wind from NW. Had a sley prepared against the return of the horses which Capt Clark had promised to send back as soon as he should be able to procure a load of meat. Visited by many of the natives among others the Big white, the coal, big-man, hairy hrn and the black man, I smoked with them, after which they retired, a deportment not common, for they usually pester us with their good company. The balance of the day after once being introduced to our apartment. Shields killed three antelopes this evening. The blacksmiths take a considerable quantity of corn today in payment for their labour. The blacksmith’s have proved a happy resource to us in our present situation as I believe it would have been difficult to have devised any other method to have procured corn from the natives. The Indians are extravagantly fond of sheet iron of which they form arrow-points and manufacter into instruments for scraping and dressing their buffaloe robes. I permitted the blacksmith to dispose of a part of a sheet iron callaboos (camboose, stove) which had been nearly birnt out on our passage up the river, and for each piece about four inches square he obtained from seven to eight gallons of corn from the natives who appeared extremely pleased with the exchange.

February 07, 1805

This morning was fair. Thermometer at 18 degrees above naught much warmer that it has been for some days. Wind SE. Continue to be visited by the natives. The Sergt. Of the guard reported that the Indian women (wives to our interpreters) were in the habit of unbarring the fort gate at any time of night and admitting their Indian visitors, I therefore directed a lock to be put to the gate and ordered that no Indian but those attatched to the garrison should be permitted to remain all night within the fort or admitted during the period which the gate had been previously ordered to be kept shut, which was from sunset until sunrise.

February 08, 1805

This morning was fair wind SE. The weather still warm and pleasant. Visited by the black-cat the principal chief of the Roop-tar-he, or upper mandane village. This man possesses more integrity, firmness, intelligence and perpicuety of mind than any Indian I have met with in this quarter, and I think with a little management he may be made a usefull agent in furthering the views of our government. The black Cat presented me with a bow and apologized for not having completed the shield he had promised alledging that the weather had been too cold to permit his making it. I gave him som small shot 6 fishing hooks and 2 yards of ribbon. His squaw also presented me with 2 pair of mockersons for which in return I gave a small lookingglass and a couple of needles. The chief dined with me and left me in the evening. He informed me that his people suffered very much for the article of meat, and that he had not himself tasted any for several days.

February 09, 1805

The morning fair and pleasant, wind from SE. Visited by Mr. McKinzey one of the NW Company’s clerks. This evening a man by the name of Howard whom I had given permission to go to the Mandane village returned after the gate was shut and reather than call to the guard to have it opened scaled the works. An Indian who was looking on shortly after followed his example. I convinced the Indian of the impropriety of his conduct, and explained to him the risk he had run of being severely treated, the fellow appeared much alarmed, I gave him a small piece of tobacco and sent him away. Howard I had commited to the care of the guard with a determineation to have him tried by a court-martial for this offence. This man is an old soldier which hightens his offence.

February 10, 1805

This morning was cloudy after a slight snow which fell in the course of the night. The wind blue very hard from NW although the thermometer stood at 18 degrees above naught the violence of the wind caused a degree of could that was much more unpleasant than that of yesterday when thermometer stood at 10 degrees. Only above the same point. Mr. Mc.Kinzey left me this morning. Charbono returned with one of the Frenchmen, and informed me that he had left the three horses and two men with the meat which Capt. Clark had sent at some distance below on the river. He told me that the horses were heavy loaded and not being shod it was impossible for horses to travel on the ice. I determined to send down some men with two small slays for the meat and accordingly I gave orders that they should set out early the next morning. Two men were also sent to conduct the horses by way of the plain.

February 11, 1805

The party that were ordered last evening set out early this morning, the weather was fair and could wind NW. About five oclock this evening one of the wives of Charbono was delivered of a fine boy. It is worthy of remark that his was the first child which this woman had boarn, and as is common in such cases her labour was tedious and the pain violent; Mr Jessome informed me that he had frequently administered a small potion of the rattle of the rattle-snake, which he assured me had never failed to produce the desired effect, that of hastening the birth of the child; having the rattle of a snake by me I gave it to him and he administered two rings of it to the woman broken in small pieces with the fingers and added a small quantity of water. Whether this medicine was truly the cause oor not I shall not undertake to determine, but I was informed that she had not taken it more than ten minutes before she brought forth. Perhaps this remedy may be worthy of future experiments, but I must confess that I want faith as to it’s efficacy.

February 12, 1805

The morning was fair tho’ could, thermometer at 14 degrees below naught wind SE. Ordered the blacksmith to shoe the horses and some others to prepare some gears in order to send them down with three slays to join the hunting party and transport the meat which they may have procured to this place. The men whom I had sent for the meat left by Charbono did no return until 4 oclock this evening. Drewyer arrived with the horses about the same time. The horses appeared much fatieged. I directed some meal brands [bran] given them moistened with a little water but to my astonishmend found that they would not eat it but preferred the bark of the cottonwood which forms the principall article of food usually given them by their Indian masters in the winter season; for this purpose they cause the tree to be felled by their women and the horses feed on the boughs and bark of their tender branches. The Indians in our neighbourhood are frequently pilfered of their horses by the Recares, Souixs and Assinniboins and therefore make it an invariable rule to put their horses in their lodges at night. In this situation the only food of the horse consists of a few sticks of the cottonwood from the size of a man’s finger to that of his arm. The Indians are invariably severe riders, and frequently have occasion for many days together through the whole couse of the day to employ their horses in pursueing the Buffaloe or transporting meat to their villages during which time they are seldom suffered to tast food; at night the horse returned to his stall where his food is what seems to me a scanty allowance of wood. Under these circumstances it would seem that teir horses could not long exist or at least could not retain their flesh and strength, byut the contrary is the fact, this valuable anamall under all those disadvantages is seldom seen meager or unfit for service. A little after dark this evening Capt. Clark arrived with the hunting party. Since they set out they have killed forty deer, three buffaloe bull, and sixteen Elk, most of them were so meager that they were unfit for use, particularly the buffaloe and male elk. The wolves also which are here extremely numerous helped themselves to a considerable proportion of the hunt. If an animal is killed and lyes only one night exposed to the wolves it is almost invariably devoured by them.

February 13, 1805

The morning cloudy. Thermometer 2 degrees below nought wind from SE. Visited by the Black Cat gave him a battle ax with which he appeared much gratified.

February 14, 1805

Having snowed three inches the night before, four men were dispatched with sleds and three horses to bring up the meat which had been collected by the hunters. They returned however with the information that at about 21 miles below the fort a party of upward of 100 men, whom they supposed to be Sioux, rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds and carried off two of the horses. They sent word to the Mandans to inform them of the attack and inquire whether any of them would join a party to pursue the robbers the next morning. About twelve o'clock two of the chiefs came down and said that all the young men were out hunting and that there were few guns in the village. Several Indians however arrived, some with bows and arrows, some with spears and battle-axes and two with fusils (flint-lock muskets) to accompany Captain Lewis who set out February 15 - at sunrise with 24 men.

The morning was described as fine and cool, the thermometer being at 16° below zero. During the course of the day one of the Mandan Chiefs had to return to the fort as his eyesight became so bad that he could not proceed. The snow blindness complaint was very common. The general remedy was to sweat the part affected by holding the face over a hot stone and receiving the vapors from snow thrown on it. The following morning several of the Indians returned as did one of the men (Howard) whose feet had been frostbitten. The party's meat supply at the fort was running low and was completely exhausted on February 18th so that they had to confine themselves to a vegetable diet which was amply supplied by the blacksmith's trading for corn.

February 15, 1805

At 10 oclock PM last night the men that were dispatched yesterday for the meat, returned and informed us that as they were on their march down at the distance of about 24 miles below the Fort (G. Drewyer Frasure, S Gutterage & Newmon with a broken Gun). About 105 Indians which they took to be Soues rushed on them and hut their huses from the Slays, two of which they carrie doff in great hast, The 3rd horse was given up to the party by the interstion of an Indian who assumd. Some authority on the occasion, probably more thro fear of himself or some of the Indians being killed by our men who were not disposed to be robed of all they had tamely, they also forced 2 of the mens knives and a tamahouk the man obliged them to return the tamahawk, [but] the knives they ran off with.

We dispatched two men to inform the Mandans, and if any of them chose to pursue those robbers, to come down in the morning, and join capt Lewis who intended to set out with a party of men Verry early, by 12 o clock the chief of the 2nd village Big White came down, and soon after one other chief and Several men. The chief observed that all the young men of the 2 villages were out hunting, and but verry fiew guns were left, Capt. Lewis set out at Sundrse with 24 men, to meet those Soues &c. Several Indians accompanied him some with bows and arrows, some with spears and battle axes, 2 with fuzees (fusils). The morning fine. The thermometer stood at 16 degrees below 0, Nought, Visited by 2 of the Big Bellies this evening, one Chief of the Mandans returned from Capt. Lewises Party nearly blind, this Complaint is as I am informed Common at this Season fo the year and caused by the reflection of the sun on the ice and snow, it is cured by “jentilley weting the part affected, by throwing snow on a hot stone.”

A verry cold part of the night. One man killed a very large red fox today.

February 16, 1805

A fine morning, visited by but few Indians today, at dusk two of the Indians who wint down with Capt. Lewis returned, Soon after two others and one man (Howard) with his feet frosted, and informed that the Inds. Who Commited the robbery of the 2 horses faw so far a head that they could not be overtaken, they left a number of pars of Mockersons which, the Mandans knew to be Soues mockersons, This war party camped very near the last camp I made when on my hunting party, where they left some corn, as a deception, with a ciew to induce a belief that they were Ricarras. Capt. Lewis and party proceeded on down the meatI left at my last Camp was taken.

February 17, 1805

This morning worm and a little cloudy, the coal and his son visited me today with about 30th of dried buffalow meat, and some tallow. Mr. Mc Kinsey one of the NW Compys. Clerks visited me (one of the horses the sous robed a fiew days past. Belonged to this man. The after part of the day fair.

February 18, 1805

A cloudy morning Some snow, Several Indians here today Mr. McKinsey leave me, the after part of the day fine. I am much engaged making a descriptive list of the Rivers from Information. Our store of meat is out today.

February 19, 1805

A fine Day. Visited by several of the Mandans today, our smiths are much engaged mending and making axes for the Indians for which we get corn.

February 20, 1805

One of the Mandan villages was mourning the death of one of their eldest men who from his account must have seen 120 winters. It was noted that a number of Mandans had lived to a great age; chiefly the men whose robust exercises fortified the body, while the laborious occupations of the women shortened their existence.

February 21, 1805

Captain Lewis returned from his excursion in pursuit of the Indians. On reaching the place where the Sioux had stolen the horses they found only one sled and several pairs of moccasins which they recognized to be those of the Sioux. The party followed the Indian tracks until they reached two old lodges where they had slept, and the next morning pursued the course of the river until they reached some Indian camps where Captain Clark had passed the night some time previous and which the Sioux had set afire, leaving a little corn near the place in order to induce belief that they were Ricaras. From this point the Sioux tracks left the river abruptly and crossed into the plains, Perceiving no chance of overtaking them Captain Lewis went down to the pen where Captain Clark had left some meat and found it untouched by the Indians. They hunted in the lowlands and returned with about 3,000 pounds of meat; some drawn on a sled by 15 of the men and the rest on horseback, having killed 36 deer, 14 elk and one wolf.

February 22, 1805

A cloudy morning, about 12 o clock it began to rain, and continud for a fiew minite, and turned to snow, and continud snowing for about one hour, and cleared away fair. The two hunters left below arrived, they killed two Elk, and hung them up out of reach of the Wolves. The coal a Rivara who is a considerable Chief of the Mandans visited us today, and maney others of the three nations in our neighborhood.

February 23, 1805

The father of the boy whose foot had been so badly frozen January 10, whom the party had cured, came this day and took him home in a sleigh. Continued effort to disengage the periogues brought results and on this day they hauled one ashore and nearly cut out the second.

The next day they succeeded in loosening the second periogue and barge. Clark wrote: 'with the assistance of great prises, we lousened her, and turned the second perogue up on the ice, ready to draw out; on lousening the boat from the ice some of the corking (calking) drew out which caused her to leake for a few minutes until we discovered the leak and stopped it.'

The next several days all members of the party were engaged in repairing the boats and locating trees suitable for new boats. Mr. Gravelines arrived with two Frenchmen on February 28th from the Ricara nation. Mr. Gavelines stated that the three upper bands of Tetons, with the Sisatoons and the Yanktons of the North, meant soon to attack the Indians in this quarter, with a resolution to put to death every white man they encounter.

The main occupation of the month of March seems to have been making canoes to resume the voyage. Gass wrote that the party of 16 men who went on February 28th about six miles up the river camped out there till six canoes were made. 'On the 20th and 21th we carried them to the river about a mile and a half distant ; there I remained with two men to finish them and to take care of them until the 26th, when some men came up from the fort and we put the canoes in the water. As the river had risen there was some water between the ice and the shore. We got three of them safe to the fort; but the ice breaking before the other three got down so filled the channel, that we were obliged to carry them the rest of the way by land. On the 27th we put one of the canoes into the water to ascertain what weight they would carry. We found they would not carry as much as was expected, and Captain Lewis agreed to take a large periogue along.'

February 24, 1805

The day fine, we Commenced very early today the Cutting loose the boat which was more difficult than the Perogus with great exertions and with the assistance fo Grat prises we loosened her, and turned the second pirogue upon the ice, ready to draw out, in lousening the boat from the ice someof the corking drew out which caused her to leake for a fiew minits until we discovered the leake and stopped it. Jessomme our interpreter and family returned from the villages. Several Indians visit us today.

February 25, 1805

We fixed a Windlass and Drew up the two pirogues on the upper bank, and attempted the boat, but the roap, which we hade made of elk skins proved too weak and broke several times. Night comeing on obliged us to leave her in a situation but little advanced. We were visited by the black mockerson chief of the little village of the big bellies, the chief of the Shoe inds. And a number of others. Those chiefs gave us some meat which they packed on their wives, and one requested a ax to be made for is sun, Mr. Root Bunch , one of the undertraders for the hudsons Bay Company. One of the big bellies asked leave for himself and his two wives to stay all night, which was granted, also two boys stayed all night, one the sun of the Black Cat.

February 26, 1805

A fine Day. Commenced verry early in making preparations for drawing up the boar on the bank, at sunset by repeated exertions the whole day, we accomplished this troublesome task, just as we were fixed for hauling the boat, the ice gave way near for us for about 100 yds. In lenth. A number of Indians here today to see the boat rise on the bank

February 27, 1805

A fine day, preparing the tools to make pirogues all day. A fiew Indians visit us today, one the largest Indian I ever saw, and as large a man as ever I saw, I commence a map of the countrey on the Missouris and its water.

February 28, 1805

A fine morning. Two men of the NW Compy. Arrive with letters and Sackacomah, also a root and top of a plant, presented by Mr. Haney, for the cure of Mad Dogs Snakes &c. and to be found and used as follows viz : “this root is found on the high lands and asent of hills, the way of using it is to scarify the part when bitten to chu or pound an inch or more if the root is small, and applying it to the bitten part renewing it twice a day. The bitten person is not to chaw nor swallow any of the root for it might have contrary effect.”

Sent ou 16 men to make four Perogus. Those men returned in the evening and informed that they found trees they thought would answer. Mr. Gravelin two Frenchmen and two inds. Arrive from the Rivara nation with letters from Mr. Anty Tabeaux, informing us of the peecable dispositions of that nation towards the Mandans and Me net a rees and their avowed intentions of pursueing our concils and advice, they express a wish to visit the Mandans, and [to] know if it will be agreeable to them to admit the Recaras to settle near them and join them against their common enemy the souse. We mentioned this to the mandans, who observed they had always wished to be at peace and good neighbours with the Ricaras, and it is also the sentiments of all big bellies, and shoe nations.

Mr. Gravelen informs that the sisetoons and the 3 upper bands of the Tetons, with the Yanktons of the North intend to come to war in a short time against the nations in this quarter, and will kill every white man they see. Mr T. Also informs that Mr. Cameron of St. Peters has put arms into the hands of the souse to revenge the death of 3 of his men killed by the Chipaways latterly, and that the Band of tetons which we saw is desposed to doe as we have advised them, thro the influence of their Chief the Black Buffalow.

Mr. Gravelen further infoms that the party which Robed us of the 2 horses latterly were all Sieoux 106 in number, they called at the Recaras on their return, the Recares being displeased at their conduct would not give them any thing to eate, that being the greates insult they could peaceably offer them, and upbreaded them.

March 01, 1805

A fine Day. I am ingaged in Copying a Map, men building perogus, making Ropes, burning coal, Hanging up meat and making battle axes for Corn.

March 02, 1805

A fine day. The river brake up in places. All engaged about something. Mr. La Rocque a clerk of the NW company visit us, he has latterly returned from the Establishments on the Assinniboin River, with Merchindize to tarade with Indians. Mr. L informs us the NW. and XY companies have joined, and the head of the NW, Co. is dead Mr. Mc. Tavish of Montreal, visited by the Coal and several Indians.

March 03, 1805

A fine Day Wind from the NW, a large flock of Ducks pass up the River visited by the black Cat, Chief of the Mandans 2nd Cief and a Big Belley, they stayed but a short time. We informed those Chiefs of the ews receved from the Recaras, all hands employd.

March 04, 1805

A cloudy morning wind from the NW. The after part of the day Clear, visited by the Black Cat and Big white, who brought a Small present of meat, an Engage of the NW Co: Came for a horse, and requested in the name of the woman of the principal of his Department some Silk of three Coours, which we furnished. The Assinniboins who visited the Mandans a fiew days ago, returned and attempted to take horses of the Minetarees & were fired on by them.

March 05, 1805

A fine Day, Thermometer at 40 above 0. Several Indians Visit us to day. One Frenchman Cross to join a Indian, the two to pass through by Land to the Ricaras with a Letter to Mr. Tabbow.

March 06, 1805

A cloudy morning & Smokey all Day from the burning of the plains, which was set on fire by the Minetarries for an early crop of Grass, as an enducement for the Buffalow to feed on, the horses which was stolen Some time ago by the Assinniboins from the Menetarries were returned yesterday. Visited by Oh-harh or the Little fox 2nd Chief of the lower Village of the Me ne tar rees. One man Shannon Cut his foot with the ads in working at the pirogue, George & Gravelene go to the Village, the river rise a little to day.

March 07, 1805

A little cloudy and windey, NE. The Coal Visited us with a Sick child, to whome I gave Some of rushes pills. Shabounar returned this evening from the Gross Ventres & informed that all thenation had returned from the hunting – he had received a present from Mr. Chaboillez of the NW Company of the following articles 3 Brace of Cloth 1 Brace of Scarlet a par Corduroy overalls 1 Vests 1 Brace Blue Cloth, 1 Brace red or Scorlet with 3 bars, 200 balls & Powder, 2 braces Tobacco, 3 Knives.

March 08, 1805

A fair Morning. Cold and windey, wind from the East, visited by the Greesey head & a Ricara to day, those men gave Some account of the Indians near the rockey Mountains a young Indian same nation & different Village, Stole the Doughter of the Black man (Mandan), he went to his village took his horse & returned & took away his doughter.

March 09, 1805

The grand chief of the Minnetarrees who was called by the French, Le Borgne, from his having but one eye, came down for the first time to the fort. He was received with much attention, two guns being fired in honor of his arrival. The curiosities were exhibited and as he said that he had not received the presents which the party had sent him, they again gave him a flag, a medal, shirt, arm-braces, etc., with which he was much pleased. In the course of the conversation the chief observed that some of the foolish young men of his nation had told him there was a person among the party who was quite black and he wished to know if it could be true. They assured him that it was true and sent for York. Le Borgne was very much surprised at his appearance, examined him closely, spit on his finger and rubbed his skin in order to wash off the paint; nor was it until the negro uncovered his head and showed his short hair that Le Borgne could be persuaded that he was not a painted white man.

Summary of Indian Justice. The next day the party had occasion to see an instance of summary justice of the Indians. A young Minnetaree had carried off the daughter of Raven Man, second chief of the upper village of the Mandans. The father went to the village and found his daughter, whom be brought home and also took with him a horse belonging to the offender. This reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of the nation as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse, which from that time became the property of the injured party.

The stealing of young women was one of the most common offenses against the police of the village and the punishment was always measured by the power or the passions of the kindred of the female. A voluntary elopement was more vigorously chastised. One of the wives of Le Borgne deserted him in favor of a man who had been her lover before the marriage and who after some time left her and she was obliged to return to her father's house. As soon as he heard it Le Borgne walked there and found her sitting near the fire. Without noticing his wife he began to smoke with the father; when they were joined by the old men of the village, who, knowing his temper, had followed in hopes of appeasing him. He continued to smoke quietly with them until rising to return, he took his wife by the hair, led her as far as the door and with a single stroke of his tomahawk put her to death before her father's eyes. Then turning fiercely upon the spectators he said that if any of her relatives wished to avenge her they could always find him at his lodge. But the fate of the woman had not sufficient interest to excite the vengeance of the family. The caprice of generosity of the same chief gave a very different result to a similar incident which occurred some time afterward. Another of his wives eloped with a young man who not being able to support her as she wished, they both returned to the village and she presented herself before the husband, soliciting his pardon for her conduct. Le Borgne sent for the lover. At the moment when the youth expected that he would be put to death the chief mildly asked them if they still preserved their affection for each other and upon their declaring that want and not a change of affection had induced them to return, he gave up his wife to her lover with the liberal present of three horses and restored them both to his favor.

March 10, 1805

A cold windey Day, we are visited by the Black Mockersons, Chief of the 2nd Minetarre Village and the Chief of the 2nd Minetarre Village and the Chief of the Shoeman Village or Mah ha ha V. those Cihefs Stayed all day and the latter al night, and gave us many Strange accounts of his nation. This Little tribe or band of Me ne tar rees ( call themselves Ah nah ha way or people whose Village is on the Hill. (Insert this Ahnahaway is the nation Mahhaha the village) this little nation formerly lived about 30 miles below this, but being oppressed by the Assinniboins & Sous were Compelled to move near 5 miles the Menetarees, where, the Assinniboins killed the most of them, those remaining built a village verry near to the Menetarries at the mouth of Knife R where they now live, and Can raise about 50 men, they are intermixed with the Mandans & Menatarries. The Mandans formerly lived in 6 large Villages at and above the mouth of Chischeter or Heart River four Villages on the West Side of the Missouri & two on the East one of those Billages on the East Side of the Missouri & the largest was entirely Cut off by the Seaux & the greater part of the oter and the Small Pox reduced the others.

March 11, 1805

A cloudy Cold windey day, some Snow in the latter part of the day, we deturmin to have two other Perogus made for to transport our Provisions.

We have every reason to believe that our Menetarre interpreter has been Corrupted by the Company. Some explanation has taken place which Clearly proves to us the fact, we give him to night to reflect and deturmin whether or not he intends to go with us under the regulations Stated.

March 12, 1805

A find day Some Snow last night. Our interpreter Shabonah, deturmins on not proceeding with us as an interpreter under the terms mentioned yesterday, he will not agree to work let our Situation be what it may nor Stand a guard, and if miffed with any man he wishes to return when he pleases, also have the disposal of as much provisions as he Chuses to Carry in admissible and we Suffer him to be off the engagement which was only virbal. Wind NW.

March 13, 1805

A fine day. Visited by Mr. McKinzey one of the Clerks of the NW. Companey, the river riseing a little. Maney Indians here to day. All anxiety for war axes. The Smiths have not an hour of Idle time to Spear. Wind SW.

March 14, 1805

A fine day. Set all hands to Shelling Corn. Mr. McKinsey leave us to day. Many Indians as usial. Wind west river Still riseing.

March 15, 1805

A fine day I put out all the goods, & Parched meal Clothing to sun, a number of Indians here to day they make maney remarks respecting our goods. Set Some men about Hulling Corn.

March 16, 1805

A Mr. Garreau (Pierre Garreau), a Frenchman who had resided among the Ricaras and Mandans explained to the party the mode in which they made their large beads, an art which they were said to have derived from some prisoners of the Snake Indian Nation and the knowledge of which was a secret even then confined to a few among the Mandans and Ricaras.

The process was as follows: Glass of different colors was first pounded fine and washed until each kind, which was kept separate, ceased to stain water thrown over it. Some well-seasoned clay mixed with a sufficient quantity of sand, to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to heat, was reduced by water to the consistency of dough and then rolled on the palm of the hand until it became the thickness wanted for the hole in the bead. These sticks of clay were placed upright, each on a little pedestal or ball of the same material about an ounce in weight and distributed over a small earthen platter which is laid on the fire for a few minutes and taken off to cool. The wet pounded glass was placed in the palm of the hand with a small paddle three or four inches long and sharpened at one end of the handle. The beads were made in an oblong form, wrapped in a cylindrical form around the stick of clay and gently rolled backward and forward until it became perfectly smooth. If it was desired to introduce any other color the surface of the bead was perforated with the point of the paddle and the cavity filled with pounded glass of that color. The sticks with the several beads were replaced on their pedestals and the platter deposited on burning coals. An earthen pot, about three gallon capacity with a mouth large enough to cover the platter, was inverted over the platter making it completely closed except a small opening at the top through which the beads were watched. A quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort of dough or paste was placed around the pot so as to almost cover it and then set afire. The beads were watched through the small hole in the pot until they assumed a deep red color which succeeded a paler or whitish red, or they became pointed at the upper end. The fire was removed and the pot allowed to cool gradually; then the beads were taken out, the clay forming the holes picked out with an awl or needle and they were ready for use. These beads were in great demand among the Indians as they were used as pendants to their ears and hair and sometimes worn around their neck.

March 17, 1805

Their Minnetaree interpreter, Chaboneau, whom they intended taking with them to the Pacific had been 'worked' upon by the British Traders and appeared unwilling to accompany them except on certain terms; such as his not being subject to the party's orders and his doing duty or returning whenever he chose. As they clearly saw the source of his hesitation and knew that it was intended as an obstacle to their plans, the party leaders told him that the terms were not acceptable and that they could dispense with his services. He left with some displeasure. Later he made an advance toward joining the party which they showed no anxiety to meet, but this morning he sent an apology for his improper conduct and agreed to go with them and perform the same duties as the rest of the Corps, and therefore he was again taken into their service.

March 18, 1805

The party engaged in packing up the goods into eight divisions so as to preserve a portion of each in case of accident. They learned that the Sioux had lately attacked a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux near the Assiniboin River and killed 50 of them. The next day the party deduced, from the departure of two parties from the Minnetarees and a third one preparing to go, that there was a war approaching.

March 19, 1805

Cold windey Day Cloudy. Some little Snow last night visited to Day by the big white & Little Crow, also a man & his wife with a Sick Child, I administer for the child. We are told that two parties are gone to war from the Big bellies and one other party going to war Shortly.

March 20, 1805

I with all the men which could be Speared from the Fort went to Canoes, there I found a number of Indians, the men carried 4 to the river about 1.5 miles thro’ the bottom, I visited the Chief of the Mandans in the Course of the Day and Smoked a pipe with himself and Several old men. Cloudy wind from N.

March 21, 1805

A Cloudy Day Some Snow, the men Carried the remaining Canoes to the river, and all except 3 left to take care & comlete the Canoes returned to the fort with their baggage, on my return to day to the Fort I came on the points of the high hills, Saw an emence quantity of Pumice Stone on the Sides & foot of the hills and emence beds of Pumice Stone near the Tops of them, with evident marks of the Hills having once been on fire, I Collected Some of the different sorts Stone Pumice Stone & aa hard earth, and put them into a furnace, the hard erath melted and glazed the others two and the hard clay became a pumice stone Glazed. I collected Some plants.

March 22, 1805

A cloudy Day. Visited by Mrs. Larock, Mc Kinsey & the 2nd Chief of the Big bellies, the white wolf and many other Minataries, we Gave a medal some clothes and wampum to the 2nd chief and delivered a seach, which they all appeared well pleased with. In the evening the men Danced. Mr. Jessomme displeased.

March 23, 1805

They had the first rain that had fallen during the winter. Two days later the river rose nine inches and the ice began breaking away in several places. On March 27 they had all their canoes brought down from above and were obliged to calk and pitch very attentively the cracks so common in cottonwood. The next day some obstacle above had prevented the ice from running. Their canoes were nearly ready as they expected to set out as soon as the river was sufficiently clear to permit them to pass.

March 24, 1805

A cloudy morning wind from the NE the after part of the day fair, Several Indians visit us to day, prepareing to Set out on our journey, Saw Swans & Wild Gees flying NE this evening.

March 25, 1805

A fine Day wind SW. But fiew Indians Visit us to day the Ice having broken up in Several places, The ice began to brake away this evening and was near destroying our Canoes as they wree decending to th effort, river rose only 9 inches to day prepareing to Depart.

March 26, 1805

The river choked up with ice opposite to us and broke away in the evening raised only ½ inch all employed prepareing to Set out.

March 27, 1805

A windey Blustering Day Wind Sw. Ice running the ice Clocked up in view for the Space of 4 hours and gave way leaveing great quantity of ice on the Shallow Sand bars. Had all the Canoes corked pitched & tined in and on the cracks and windshake which is universially in the Cotton wood.

March 28, 1805

The ice has stoped running owing to Som obstickle above, repare the Boat & Perogues, and prepareing to set out but few Indians visit us to day they are now attending on the river bank to catch the floating Buffalow.

March 29, 1805

The obstructions above gave away this morning and the ice came down in great quantities, the river fell 11 inches in the last 24 hours. There were few Indians at the fort for the past three or four days as they were then busy catching the floating buffalo. Every spring as the river was breaking up the surrounding plains were set on fire and the buffalo were tempted to cross the river in search of the fresh grass which immediately succeeded the burning. On their way they were often isolated on a large cake of ice which floated down the river. The Indians selected the most favorable point for attack and as the buffalo approached darted with astonishing agility across the cakes of ice, sometimes stepping lightly on a cake of not more than two feet square. The animal was of course unsteady and his footsteps insecure so that he could but make little resistance.

The next several days were spent in preparing the barge to descend the Missouri and packing a variety of articles for the President. They consisted of a stuffed male and female antelope with their skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels from the Rocky Mountains, the skeleton of the prairie wolf, those of the white and grey hare, a male and female, blairesu or burrowing-dog of the prairie, with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white weasel, the skin of the louservia, the horns of the mountain ram or bighorn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of the blacktailed deer and a variety of skins such as those of the red fox, white hare, marten and yellow bear obtained from the Sioux. Also a number of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffalo robe representing a battle fought between the Sioux and Ricaras against the Mandans and Minnetarees in which the combatants were represented on horseback. Among other articles sent were a Mandan bow and a quiver of arrows, some Ricara tobacco seed, an ear of Mandan corn, a box of plants, another of insects and three cases containing a burrowing squirrel, a prairie hen and four magpies all alive.

March 30, 1805

The obstickle broke away above & the ice came down in great quantities the river rose 13 inches the last 24 hours. I observed extrodanary dexterity of the Indians in jumping from one cake of ice to another, for the purpose of Catching the buffalow as they float down. Many of the cakes of ice which they pass over are not two feet square. The plains are on fire in View of the fort on both Sides of the river, it is Said to be common for the Indians to burn the Plains near their Villages ever Spring for the benefit of their horses and to induce the Buffalow to come near to them.

April 01, 1805

The fore part of to day hail rain with Thunder & lightning, the rain continued by intimations all day, it is worthey of remark that this is the 1st rain which has fallen Sence we have been here or Sence the 15 of October last, except a fiew drops at two or three defferent times. Had the Boat Perogues & Canoes all put into the Water.

April 02, 1805

A cloudy day, rained all the last night. We are prepareing to Set out all thing nearly ready. The 2nd Chief of the 2nd Mandan Village took a miff at our not attending to him particularly after being here about ten days and moved back to his village.
The Mandans Killed twenty one elk yesterday 15 miles below this, they were So meager that they were Scercely fit for use.

April 03, 1805

A white frost this morning, Some ice on the edge of the water, a fine day. Pack up and prepare to load.
Mrs. La Rocke & McKinsey Clerk to the NW Compy. Visit us. Mr McKinzey wishes to Get pay for his horse lost in our Service this Winter and one of which our men were robed this Winter by the Tetons, weShall pay this man for his horse. We are all day engaged packing up Sundery articles to be sent to the President of the US.

April 04, 1805

A blustering windey Day. The clerks of the NW Co. leave us, we are arrangeing all things to Set out.

April 05, 1805

The party was occupied in loading the boats in order to proceed on their journey and were visited by a number of Mandans. The next day the Mandans continued to come to the fort and in the course of the day informed the party of the arrival of a party of Ricaras on the other side of the river. The interpreter was sent to inquire into their reason for coming and the next morning he returned with a Ricara chief and three of his nation. The chief, Brave Raven, brought a letter from Mr. Tabeau mentioning the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras to visit the President and requesting permission for himself and four men to join the boat when it descended, to which they consented as it was to be manned with 15 hands and therefore be able to defend itself against the Sioux. After presenting the letter he told the party that he was sent by his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans and Minnetarees whom they wished to join; that he considered all the neighboring nations friendly except the Sioux whose persecution they could no longer withstand and whom they hoped to repel by uniting with the tribes in this quarter. He added that the Ricaras intended to follow their advice and live in peace with all nations and requested that the party speak in their favor to the Assiniboin Indians. This was promised and he was assured that their great father would protect them and no longer suffer the Sioux to have good guns or to injure his dutiful children. He was given a medal, a certificate of his good conduct, a carrot of tobacco and some wampum with which he was well satisfied with his reception.

Roster at Departure From Ft. Mandan. Having made all arrangements, the party left the fort about five o'clock in the afternoon Sunday, April 7, 1805. The party to go on up the river consisted of 32 persons. Besides Captains Lewis and Clark were Sergeants John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor and Patrick Gass. The privates were William Bratton, John Collins, John Colter who later had the horrible experience with the Indians on the Missouri when his comrade Potts was killed, Peter Cruzatte who accidentally shot Captain Lewis August 11, 1806; Joseph Fields, Reuben Fields, brothers ; Robert Frazier, George Gibson, Silas Goodrich, Hugh Hall, Thomas P. Howard, Francis Labiche, Baptiste Lepage, Hugh M'Neal, John Potts and George Shannon who later received a wound in the leg from the Indians and on his return had his leg amputated at St. Charles, a wooden one substituted from which he was ever afterward called 'Peg-leg Shannon.' He studied law, was admitted to the bar and began practice in Lexington, Kentucky. He was a circuit Judge for some years, located in Hannibal, Missouri, in 1828, and afterwards at St. Charles, He was for a short time State Senator and United States Attorney for Missouri. He died suddenly in court at Palmyra in 1836 at the age of 49. Other privates were John Shields, John B. Thompson, William Werner, Joseph Whitehouse, Alexander Willard, Richard Windsor, Peter Wiser and Captain Clark's black servant, York. The two interpreters were George Drewyer and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife (Sacajawea) of Chaboneau also accompanied the party with the young child, as they hoped she would be useful as an interpreter among the Snake Indians. She was one of that tribe but having been taken in way by the Minnetarees she was sold as a slave to Chaboneau who brought her up and afterward married her. One of the Mandans embarked with them in order to go to the Snake Indians to obtain a peace with them for his countrymen. All of this party with the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two large periogues.

At the time the party departed the barge manned by Corporal Warfington in charge, with six soldiers, two Frenchmen and Mr. Gravelines as Pilot, sailed for the United States loaded with presents and dispatches, with orders to return without delay to St. Louis. The Party made four miles the first day and camped on the north side of the Missouri opposite the first Mandan village.

April 06, 1805

A fine day. Visited by a number of Mandans, we are informed of the arrival of the whole of the recarra nation on the other Side of the river near their old village, we Sent an interpreter to see with orders to return immediately and let us know if their Chiefs ment to go down to See their great father.

April 07, 1805

Having on this day at 4 PM. Completed every arranagement necessary for our departure, we dismissed the barge and crew with orders to return without loss of time to St. Louis, a small canoe with two French hunters accompanied the barge; these men had assended the Missouri with us the last year as engages. The barge crew consisted of six soldiers and two Frenchmen; two Frenchmen and a Ricara Indian also take their passage in her as far as the Ricara Villages, at which place we expect Mr. Tiebeau to embark with his peltry who in that case will make an addition of two, perhaps four men to the crew of the barge. We gave Richard Warfington, a discharged Corp, the charge of the Barge and crew, and confided to his care likewise our dispatches to the government, letters to our private friends, and a number of articles to the President the United States. One of the Frenchmen by the Name of Joseph Gravline an honest discrete man and an excellent boat-man is imployed to conduct the barge as a pilot; we have therefore every hope that the barge and with her our dispatches will arrive safe at St. Louis. Mr. Gravlin who speaks the Ricara language extremely well, has been imployed to conduct a few of the Recara Chiefs to the seat of government who have promised us to decend in the barge to St. Liwis with that view.

At same moment that the Barge departed from Fort Mandan, Capt. Clark embarked with our party and proceeded up the River. As I had used no exercise for several weeks, I determined to walk on shore as far as our encampment of this evening; accordingly I continued my walk on the N side of the river about 6 miles, to the upper Village of the Mandans, and called on the Black Cat or Pose cop se ha, the great chief of the Mandans; he was not at home; I rested myself a few minutes, and finding that the party had not arrived I returned about 2 miles and joined them at their encampment on the N side of the river opposite the lower Mandan village. Our party now consisted of the following Individuals. Sergts. John Ordway, Nathaniel Prior, & Patric Gass; Privates, William Bratton, John Colter, Reubin, and Joseph Fields, John Shields, George Gibson, George Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Joseph Whitehouse, Richard Windsor, Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Goodrich, Robert Frazier, Peter Crouzatt, John Baptiest la Page, Francis Labiech, Hue McNeal, William Warner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, and John B. Thompson. Interpreters, George Drewyer and Tauasant Charbono also a Black man by the name of York, servant to Capt. Clark, an Indian Woman wife to Charbono with a young child, and a Mandan man who had promised us to accompany us as far as the Snake Indians with a view to bring about a good understanding and friendly intercourse between that nation and his own, the Minetares and Ahwahharways.

Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large pirogues. This little fleet altho’ not quite so respectable as those of Columbus or Capt. Cook, were still viewd by us with as much pleasure as those deservedly famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with quite as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. We were now about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles in width, on which the foot of civilized man had never trodden; the good or evil it had in store for us was for experiment yet to determine, and these little vessels contained every article by which we were to expect to subsist or defend ourselves. However, as the state of mind in which we are, generally gives the colouring to events, when the imagination is suffered to wander into futurity, the picture which now presented itself to me was a most pleasing one. Entertaining as I do, the most confident hope of succeeding in a voyage which had formed a darling project of mine for the last ten years, I could but esteem this moment of my departure as among the most happy of my life. The party are in excellent health and sperits, zealously attached to the enterprise, and anxious to proceed; not a whisper of murmur or discontent to be heard among them, but all act in unison, and with the most perfict harmony. I took an early supper this evening and went to bed. Capt. Clark myself the two Interpretters and the woman and child sleep in a tent of dressed skins. This tent is in the Inda stile, formed f a number of dressed Buffaloe skins sewed together with sinues. It is cut in such a manner that when foalded double it forms the quarter of a circle, and is left open at one side here it may be attatched or loosened at pleasure by strings which are sewed to its sides for the purpose. To erect this tent , a parsel of ten or twelve poles are provided, fore or five of which are attatched together at one end, they are then elivatd and their lwer extremities are spread in a circular manner to a width proportionate to the demention of the lodge; in the same position orther poles are leant against those, and the leather is then thrown over them forming a conic figure.

April 08, 1805

The party passed the Knife River in the morning and in the course o£ the day one of the boats filled with water was near sinking. However they saved her with the loss of a little biscuit and powder. Fourteen miles were covered and camp made on the north shore. Lewis wrote, 'Captain Clark, myself, the two interpreters, the woman and child sleep in a tent of dressed skins.'

April 09, 1805

They set off as soon as it was light and proceeded five miles to breakfast. Farther up the river they came upon a hunting party of Minnetarees who had prepared a park or enclosure and were waiting the return of the antelope. These animals, which in the autumn returned for food and shelter to the Black Mountains during the winter, recrossed the river at this season of the year and spread themselves through the plains on the north of the Missouri. They halted and smoked with the Minnetarees, then they stopped for dinner. The squaw went out and, after penetrating with sharp sticks, the holes of gophers, brought in a quantity of wild artichokes which the gophers collect and hoard in large number. A large beaver was caught the night before, and the mosquitoes began to trouble them.

April 10, 1805

At a distance of twelve miles they reached the lower point of a bluff on the south which was on fire in some places and threw out quantities of smoke which had a strong sulphurous smell. At one o'clock they overtook three Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before the party in order to make the first attempt of hunting beaver on this river which they did by means of traps. They had caught twelve which were finer than any the party had ever seen. They meant to accompany the party as far as the Yellowstone River in order to obtain the party's protection against the Assiniboins who might attack them. The current was compared with the Ohio River and described as moderate and at least not greater than that of the Ohio in high tides; the banks fell in but little so that navigation, compared with that lower down the Missouri, was safe and easy. Camp was made on the south bank at 18 1/2 miles.

April 11, 1805

The party set out at daylight and breakfasted at five miles. Here the hunters brought in a deer which was very acceptable as they had been without fresh meat for several days. Camp was made in Garfield County having covered 19 miles. The next day at six miles they came to the entrance of the Little Missouri where they remained during the day to make celestial observations. The Little Missouri was reported as 134 yards wide, its greatest depth two and one-half feet, and with a bold current joined to its sand bars made navigation difficult except for canoes. They found great quantities of small onions about the size of a bullet.

April 12, 1805

Set out an early hour. Our pirogue and the Canoes passed over to the Lard side, in order to avoid a bank which was rapidly falling in on the Stard. The red pirogue contrary to my expectation or wish passed under this bank by means of her toe line; where I expected to have seen her carried under every instant. I did not discover that she was about to make this attempt until it was too late for the men to reembark, and retreating is more dangerous than proceeding in such cases; they therefore continued their passage up this bank, and much to my satisfaction arrived safe above it. This cost me some moments of uneasiness, her cargo was of much importance to us in our present advanced situation. We prceeded on six miles and came too on the lower side of the entrance of the little Missouri on the Lard shore in a fine plain where we determined to spend the day for the purpose of celestial observation. We sent out 10 hunters to procure some fresh meat.

George Drewyer shot a Beaver this morning, which we found swimming in the river a small distance below the entrance of the little Missouri. The beaver being seen in the dya, is a proof that they have been but little hunted, as they always keep themselves closely concealed during the day where they are so. Found a great quantity of small onions in the plain were we encamped; had some of them collected and cooked, found them agreeable. The bulb grows single, is of an oval form, white, and about the size of a small bullet; the leaf resembles that of the shive, and the hunters returned this evening with one deer only. The Country about the mouth of this river had been recently hunted by the Minetares, and the little game which they had not killed and frightened away, was so extremely shy that the huters could not get in shoot of them.

The little Missouri disembogues on the S. side of the Missouri 1693 miles from the confluence of the latter with the Mississippi, it is 134 yards wide at it’s mouth, and sets in with a bould current but it’s greatest debth is not more than 2.5 feet. It’s navigation is extremely difficult, owing to it’s rapidity, shoals and sand bars it may however be navigated wit small canoes a considerable distance. This river passes through the Nothern extremity of the black hills where it is very narrow and rapid and it’s banks high and perpendicular. It takes it’s rise in a broken country west of the Black hills with the waters of the yellow stone river, and a considerable distance SW of the point at which it passes the black hills. The country through which it passes is generally broken and the highlands possess but little timber. There is some timber in it’s bottom lands, which consists of Cottonwood red Elm, with a small proportion of small Ash and box alder. The under brush is willow, red wood, the red burry, and Choke cherry. The country is extreamly broken about the mout of this river, and as far up on both sides, as we could observe it from the tops of some elevated hills, which stand between these two rivers, about 3 miles from their junction. The soil appears fertile and deep, it consists generally of a dark rich loam intermixed with a small proportion of fine sand. This river in it’s course passes near the NW side of the turtle mountain, which is said to be no more than 4 or 5 leagues distant from it’s entrance in a straight direction, a little to the S of West. This mountain and the knife river have therefore been laid down too far SW. The colour of the water, the bed of the river , and it’s appearance in every respect, resembles the Missouri; I am therefore induced to believe that the texture of the soil of the country in which it takes it’s rise, and that through which it passes, is similar to the country through which the Missouri passes after leaving the woody country, or such as we are now in. On the side of a hill not distant from our camp I found some of the dwarf cedar of which I preserved a specimen this plant spreads it’s limbs alonge the surface of the erath, where they are sometimes covered, and always put forth a number of roots on the under side, while on the upper there are a great number of smallshoots which their leaves seldom rise higher than 6 or eight inches. They grow so cose as perfectly to conceal the earth. It is an evergreen; the leaf is much more delicate than the common Cedar, and it’s taste and smell the same. I have often thought that this plant would make very handsome edgings to the borders and walks ofa garden; it is quite as handsom as box, and would be much more easily propagated. The appearance of the glauber salts and Carbonated wood still continue.

April 13, 1805

At nine miles distance passed a creek on the north which they called Onion Creek from the quantity of that plant which grew on the plains near it. The Missouri widened very remarkably just above the junction with the Little Missouri. At the mouth the Missouri was not more than 200 yards wide and so shallow that it could be passed in canoes with setting poles, while a few miles above, it was upward of a mile in width. More bald eagles were seen in this part than at any time previous. Camp was made at 22'Iz miles but not without imminent danger as Lewis wrote, 'A sudden squall of wind struck us and turned 4 8 the periogue so much on the side as to alarm Sharbono who was steering at the time, in this state of alarm he threw the perogue with her side to the wind, when the spritsail gibing was near oversetting the perogue as it was possible to have missed - I ordered Drewyer to the helm,' etc. This boat had on board the papers, instruments, medicines and the most valuable part of the merchandise, to say nothing of both the captains, three men who could not swim, Sacajawea and the baby - the helmsman being the only part of the cargo that might have been lost without inconvenience.

April 14, 1805

The party set off early with pleasant and fair weather. A dog joined them which they supposed had strayed from an Indian camp. At 2'/z miles in low grounds were several uninhabited lodges built with boughs of the elm; also the remains of two recent camps which, from the hoops of small kegs found in them, they judged could belong to the Assiniboins, as they were the only Missouri Indians who used spirituous liquors. They were so passionately fond of it that it formed their chief inducement to visit the British on the Assiniboin River, to whom they bartered their dried and pounded meat, their grease and furs for kegs of rum.

The party halted for dinner near a large village of burrowing squirrels (gophers or prairie-dogs). At 10 1/4 miles they came to the lower point of an island which from the day of their arrival they called Sunday island. Above the island two small creeks fall in from the south, the uppermost which is the largest was named Chaboneau's Creek after their interpreter who once camped on it several weeks with a party of Indians. Beyond this no white man had ever been, except two Frenchmen, one of whom (Lepage) was with the party and whom having lost their way struggled a few miles farther, though to what point the Captains could not ascertain. Camp was made 11/4 miles beyond this island having covered in all 14 miles.


One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffalo was killed and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use. Two white bears were also seen, Lewis wrote 'The natives call them white but they are more of a brown-gray.' This species is the grizzly, new to science in 1805, not technically named until 1815. The Indians had given them dreadful accounts of the ferocity of this bear. They never attacked the bear unless in parties of six or eight persons and then were often defeated with a loss of one or more of their party.

April 15, 1805

The day before, the party had killed 'A large hooting owl resembling that of the United States except that it was more booted and clad with feathers.' On the hills were many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell and appearance the sage (sage-brush). There were also on these plains great quantities of geese and many of the grouse or prairie hen as they were called by the Northwest Company's traders. They also saw a black bear and two 'white' ones. At 15 miles they passed on the north a small creek about 20 yards wide which they called Goat-pen Creek (Little Knife River) from an enclosure found there for the purpose of catching that animal and which they presumed to have been left by the Assiniboins. Camp was made at a distance of 23 miles. The channel of the river a little above their camp was confined within 80 yards.

April 16, 1805

The appearances of minerals continued as usual and on this date they found several stones which seems to have been wood, first carbonated and then petrified by the water of the Missouri. They were supposed to observe great numbers of old hornets' nests in the timbered low grounds. Camp was made in a point of woods on the south having covered 18 miles through the circuits they were obliged to make around sandbars which increased the real distance.

April 17, 1805

The party set out early with a wind so favorable they were enabled to sail the greater part of the day. They covered 26 miles this date though the crookedness of the Missouri along here made many miles of navigation for comparatively little advance. Game was much more plentiful in this area. They caught three beavers, the flesh of which was more relished by the men than any other food which they had. Just before they camped they saw tracks of Indians who had passed 24 hours before and left four rafts and whom they supposed were Assiniboins on their return from war against the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. The next day they proceeded with a westerly wind which however suddenly changed to the Northwest and blew so hard they were forced to stop at one o'clock for four hours; when it abated they continued on the course. The next day, Friday April 19th, the wind was so high that they could not proceed. Gass wrote, 'While we lay here, I went out to the hills which I found very high, much washed by the rain and without grass. I saw part of a log quite petrified and of which good whetstones or hones could be made.'

April 18, 1805

A fine morning, set out at an early hour. One beaver caught this morning by two traps, having a foot in each’ the traps belonged to different individuals, between whom, a contest ensued, which would have terminated, most probably in a serious reencounter had not our timely arrival at the place prevented it. After breakfast this morning, Capt. Clark walked on Stad. Shore. While the party were assendingby means of their toe lines, I walked with them on the bank; found a species of pea bearing a yellow flower, and now in blume; it seldom rises more than 6 inches high, the leaf and stalk resembles that of the common gardin pea, the root is perennial. I also saw several parsels of buffaloe’s hair hanging on the rose bushes, which had been bleached by exposure to the weather and became perfectly white. It had every appearance of the wool of the sheep, tho’ much finer and more silkey and soft. I am confident that an excellent cloth may be made of the wool of the Buffaloe. The Buffaloe I killed yesterday had cast his long hare, and the poil which remained was very thick, fine, and about 2 inches in length. I think this animal would have furnished about five pounds of wool. We were detained today from one to five P< in consequence of the wind which blew so violently from N. that it was with difficulty we could keep the canoes from filling with water altho’ they were along shore; I had them secured by placing the pirogues on the outside of them in such manner as to break the waves off them. At 5 we proceed, and shortly after met with Capt. Clark, who had killed an Elk and a deer and was wating our arrival. We took the meat on board and continued our march until nearly dark when we came too on the Stard. Side under a boald well-timbered bank which sheltered us from the wind which had abated but not yete ceased. Here we encamped, it being the extremity of the last course of the day.

April 19, 1805

The wind blew so hard this morning from NW that we dared not to venture our canoes on the river. Observed considerable quantities of dwarf Juniper on the hill sides. It seldom rises higher then 3 feet. The wind detained us through the couse of this day, tho’ we were fortunate in having placed ourselves in a safe harbour. The party killed one Elk and beaver today. The beaver of this part of the Missouri are larger, fatter, more abundant and better clad with fur than those of any other part of the country that I have yet seen; I have remarked also that their fur is much darker.

April 20, 1805

They set off at seven o'clock and nearly lost one of the canoes as they left the shore by the falling in of a large part of the bank. The wind again became so strong that they could scarcely make one mile an hour and the sudden squalls so dangerous to the small boats they stopped having made only 6 1/2 miles.

Indian Disposal of Decreased. Along the plain there were some Indian camps. Near one of these was a scaffold about seven feet high, on which were two sleds with their harness, under it the body of a female carefully wrapped in several dressed buffalo skins. Near it laid a bag made of buffalo skin, containing a pair of moccasins, some red and blue paint, beaver's nails, scrapers for dressing hides, some dried roots, several plants of sweet grass and a small quantity of Mandan tobacco. These things as well as the body itself had probably fallen down by accident as the custom was to place them on the scaffold. At a short distance was the body of a dog not yet decayed that had met his reward for having dragged this far in the sled the corpse of his mistress to whom according to the Indian usage, he had been sacrificed.

April 21, 1805

They saw immense quantities of buffalo, elk, deer, antelopes, geese and some swans and ducks, out of which they procured three deer and four buffalo calves, the latter was reported to be equal in flavor to the most delicious veal. Seventeen miles were covered this day. The next day after much delay in consequence of a high wind they succeeded in making 11 miles. The hills of the Missouri near this place were reported to exhibit large irregular broken masses of rocks some of which, although 200 feet above the water, seemed at some remote period to have been subject to its influence being apparently worn smooth 5 0 by the action of the water. The usual appearance of coal or carbonated wood and pumice stone still continued to be reported, the coal being of a better quality and affording a hot and lasting fire, emitting very little smoke or flame. There were large herds of deer, elk, buffalo and antelopes in view. These buffalo were not so shy as the rest for they allowed them to approach within 100 yards before they ran and then stopped to resume their pasture at a very short distance. The wolves this day pursued a herd of them and at length caught a calf that was unable to keep up with the rest. The mothers on these occasions defend their young as long as they can retreat as fast as the herd but seldom returned any distance to look for them.

April 22, 1805

Set out early hour this morning. About nine AM. The wind arose, and shortly after became so violent that we were unabled to proceed, in short it was with much difficulty and some risk that I was enabled to get the canoes and pirogues into a place of tolerable safety, there being no timber on either side of the river at this place. Some of the canoes shipped water, and wet several parsels of their lading, which I directed to be opened and aired. We remained until five in the evening when the wind abating in some measure, we reloaded, and proceeded. Shortly after we were joined by Capt. Clark who had walked on shore this morning, and passing through the bottom lands had fallen on the river some miles above, and concluding that the wind had detained us, came down the river in surch of us. He had killed three black-taled, or mule deer, and a buffaloe Calf, in the course of this ramble. The hard winds, being so frequently repeated, become a serious source of detention to us. Incamped on the Stard. Side.

April 23, 1805

At nine o'clock the wind became so high that the boats were in danger of upsetting. They therefore were forced to stop at a place of safety until about five in the afternoon when the wind lowered and they proceeded, camping on the north at the distance of 13 1/2 miles. The hunting party on shore brought in a buffalo calf and three black-tailed deer.

The next day the wind was so high that they were unable to move because of its violence; and though they were sheltered by high timber, the waves wet many articles in the boats. The hunters went out and returned with four deer, two elk, and some young wolves. The party was very much afflicted with sore eyes, which they presumed to be caused by the vast quantities of sand which was often blown from the sand-bars in such clouds that it obscured the view of the opposite bank. These particles of sand were described as being so fine and light that it floated for miles in the air like a thick column of smoke. It was so penetrating that nothing could be kept free from it and they were compelled to eat, drink and breathe it. One of their watches would not run for more than a few minutes without stopping. Lewis wrote, 'Attribute it to the sand, with which she seems perfectly charged, notwithstanding her cases are double and tight.'

April 24, 1805

The wind blew so hard during the whole of this day, that we were unable to move, notwithstanding that we were shetered by high timber from the effects of the wind, such was it’s violence that it caused the wavews to rise in such manner as to wet many articles in the small canoes before they could be unloaded. We sent out some hunters who killed 4 deer and 2 Elk, and caught some young wolves of the small kind. Soar eyes is a common complaint among the party. I believe it originates from the immence quantities of sand which is driven by the wind from the sandbars of the river in such clouds that you are unable to discover the opposite bank of the river in many instances. The particfles of this sand are so fine and light that they are easily supported by the air, and are carried by the wind for many miles, and at a distance exhibiting every appearance of a column of thick smoke. So penetrating is this sand that we cannot keep any article free from it; in short we are compelled to eat, drink, and breath it very freely. My pocket watch is out of order, she will run only a few minutes without stoping. I can discover no radical defect in her works, and must therefore attribute it to the sand, whith which, she seems plentifully charged, notwithstanding her cases are double and tight.

April 25, 1805

They set out early, the weather was so cold that the water froze on the oars and about ten o'clock the wind increased to the extent that they were forced to stop. The reports from the hunters of the crookedness of the river induced them to believe that they were near the Yellowstone. In order to prevent delay as much as possible, Captain Lewis determined to go on by land in search of that river and make the necessary observations so as to be able to proceed immediately after the boats joined him. He therefore landed about eleven o'clock on the south side, accompanied by four men. The boats were prevented from going on until five in the afternoon when they went on a few miles farther and camped at a distance of 14 1/2 miles.

April 26, 1805

The party continued their voyage and by twelve o'clock camped at eight miles distance at the junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone rivers where they were soon joined by Captain Lewis. This morning he had sent a man up the river to examine it while he proceeded down to the junction. 'At the distance of 1888 miles we reached the entrance of the Yellow Rock River on the 26th of April.'

Description of the Yellowstone. This river which had been known to the French as the Roche jaune, or as they called it the Yellowstone; rises, according to Indian information, in the Rocky Mountains, the bed of which they observed near the mouth was composed of sand and mud without a stone of any kind. The man who was sent up the river reported in the evening that he had gone about eight miles, that during the distance the river wound through a plain four or five miles wide and that the current was gentle and much obstructed by sand bars. They measured the two rivers just above their confluence and found the bed of the Missouri 520 yards wide, the water occupying only 330 and the channel deep. The Yellowstone occupied 858 yards including its sand bar, with 297 yards of water, the deepest part of the channel was twelve feet.

April 27, 1805

The party left the mouth of the Yellowstone and at 2 1 /2 miles above the junction came to a small lake 200 yards wide, extending for a mile parallel with the Missouri. They reported that at the lower extremity of this lake about 400 yards from the Missouri and twice that distance from the Yellowstone was a situation highly eligible for a trading establishment. Game was very abundant and quite gentle; above all, its elevation recommended it as preferable to the land at the confluence of the rivers which their variable channels might render very insecure. A sufficient quantity of limestone for building was to be easily procured near the junction of the rivers; not in regular strata but in large irregular masses, of a light color and apparently of an excellent quality. The wind rose so high that at eleven o'clock they were forced to stop until about four in the afternoon. For several days past they had seen great numbers of buffalo lying dead along the shore, some of them partly devoured by the wolves. Their opinion was that they had either broken through the ice during the winter, drowned in attempting to cross, or after crossing to some high bluff found themselves too exhausted either to ascend or swim back again and perished for want of food. In this situation they found several small herds of them. The geese were reported in abundance and more bald eagles than they had hitherto observed, the nests of which were always accompanied by those of two or three magpies, which were their inseparable attendants.

April 28, 1805

The day was clear and pleasant; the wind having shifted to the southwest they employed the sails and went 24 miles. Game was very abundant. The beaver had committed great devastation among the trees, one of which, nearly three feet in diameter, had been gnawed through.

They proceeded early the next day. Captain Lewis was on shore with one of the hunters and about eight o'clock met up with two white bears (Grizzly). The Indians had given them dreadful accounts of the strength and ferocity of this animal and that they would never attack one with less than six or eight in a party. Having had no weapons but bows and arrows and poor guns with which the traders supplied them, they had to approach very near to the bear as no wound except through the head or heart is effective. They frequently fell a sacrifice if they missed their aim. On approaching these two both Captain Lewis and the hunter fired and each wounded a 52 bear. One of them made his escape, the other turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him 70 or 80 yards, but being badly wounded the bear could not run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his piece which he again aimed at him. A third shot from the hunter brought him to the ground. He was a male, not quite full grown and weighed about 300 pounds.


After covering 25 miles they camped at the entrance of a river on the north side which they called Martha's (Big Muddy). Lewis wrote, 'This stream my friend Capt. C. named Martha's River in honour of Miss M' followed by an initial of her surname which was probably F. or T.

April 29, 1805

Set out this morning at the usual hour; the wind was moderate; I walked on shore with one man. About 8AM we fell in with two brown or yellow [white] bear; both of which we wounded; one of them made his escape, the other after my firing on him pursued me seventy or eighty yards, but fortunately had been so badly wounded that he was unable to pursue so closely as to prevent my charging my gun; we again repeated our fire and killed him. It was a male not fully grown, we estimated his weight at 300 lbs. not having the means of ascertaining it precisely. The legs of this bear are somewhat longer than those of the black, as are it’s talons and tusks incomparably larger and longer. The testicles, which in the black bear are place pretty well back between thyes and contained in one pouch like those of the dog and most quadrupeds, are in the yellow or brown bear placed much further forward, and are suspended in separate puches from the two to four inches asunder; it’s colour is yellowish brown, the eyes small, black and piercing; the front of the forelegs near the feet is usually black; the fur is finer thicker and deper than that of the black bear. These are all the particulars in which this animal appeared to me to differ from the black bear; it is a much more furious and formidable animal, and will frequently pursue the hunter when wounded. It is astonishing to see the wounds they will bear before they can be put to death. The Indians may well fear this animal equipped as they generally are with their bows and arrows or indifferent fuzees, but in the hands of skillfull riflemen tghey are by no means as formidable or dangerous as they have been represented. Game is still very abundant we can scarcely cast our eyes in any direction without perceiving deer Elk Buffaloe or Antelopes. The quantity of wolves appear to increase in the same proportion; they generally hunt in parties of six eight or ten; they kill a great number of the Antelopes at this season; the Antelopes are yet meager and the females are big with young; the wolves take them most generally in attempting to swim the river; in this manner my dog caught one drowned it and brought it on shore; they are but clumsey swimmers, tho’ on land when in good order, they are extremely fleet and dureable. We have frequently seen the wolves in pursuit of the Antelope in the plains; they appear to decoy a single one from a flock, and then pursue it, alternately relieveing each other until they take it. On joiningh Capt. Clark he informed me that he had seen a female and faun of the bighorned animal; that they ran for some distance with great apparent ease along the side of the river bluff where it was almost perpendicular; two of the party fired on them while in motionj without effect. We took the flesh of the bear on board and proceeded. Capt Clark walked on shore this evening, killed a deer, and saw several of the bighorned animals. There is more appearance of coal today than we havbe yet seen, the stratas are 6 feet thick in some instances; the earth has been birnt in many places, and always appears in stratas on the same level with the stratas of coal. We came too this evening in the mouth of a little river, which falls on the Strd. Side. This stream is about 50 yards wide from bank to bank; the water occupyes about 15 yards. The banks are of earth only, abrupt, tho’ not high – the bed, is of mud principally. Capt Clark, who was up this stream about three miles, informed me that it continued about the same width, that it’s current was gentle and it appeared navigable for pirogues. It meanders thgough an extensive, fertile, and beautifull vally as far as could bee seen about N 30 degrees W there was but one solitary tree to be seen on the banks of this river after it left the bottom of the Missouri. The water of this river is clear, with a brownish yellow tint. Here the highlands recede from the Missouri leaving the vally formed by the river from seven to eight miles wide, and reather lower the usual. This steam my friend Capt. C. named Marthas river.

April 30, 1805

The wind was again high from the North. They however proceeded and found the river more winding than usual, with a number of sand islands and bars, on one of which they camped at the distance of 24 miles. They killed the largest male elk they had seen; on placing it in its natural erect position it measured 5 feet 3 inches from the point of the hoof to the top of the shoulder. The fleet and quick-sighted antelope was generally a victim of its curiosity. When they first saw the hunters they ran with great velocity ; the hunter would lie on the ground and lift up his arm, hat or his foot then the antelope returned trotting lightly to look at the object and sometimes leaves and returns two or three times until it approaches within reach of the rifle. So too they sometimes left their flock to go look at the wolves which crouched down and if the antelope was frightened at first the wolves repeated the same maneuver and sometimes relieved each other until they decoyed it from the flock when they seized it. Generally the wolves took them as they were crossing the rivers for, although swift on foot, they weren't good swimmers. May 1 - The wind was in their favor and they were able to use the sails until twelve o'clock when the wind became so high they were forced to come-to at the distance of ten miles. The wind continued until five in the afternoon when they proceeded. Lewis wrote, 'Copt. Clark pursued his walk while I continued with the party, it being a rule which we had established, never to be absent at the same time from the party.' One of the hunters (J. Fields) in passing near an old Indian camp found several yards of scarlet cloth suspended on a bough of a tree as a sacrifice to the deity by the Assiniboins. 'To offer or sacrifice in this manner to the deity whatever they may be possessed of which they think most acceptable to him, and very honestly making their own feelings to test of those of the deity offer him the article which they most prize themselves,' etc. Lewis.

May 01, 1805

Set out this morning at an early hour, the wind being favourable we used our sales which carried us on at a good pace until about 12 oclock. When the wind became so high that the small canoes were unable to proceed one of them which separated from us just before the wind became so violent, is now lying on the opposite side of the river, being unable to rejoin us in consequence of the waves, which during those gusts run several feet high. We came too on the Lard. Shore in a handsome bottom well stocked with cottonwood timber; here the wind compelled us to spend the balance of the day. We sent out some hunters who killed a buffaloe, and Elk, a goat and two beaver. Game is now abundant. The country appears much more pleasant and fertile than that we have passed for several days; the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better stocked with timber, which sonsists principally of cottonwood, not however of large size; the under-growth willow on thverge of the river ad sandbars, rose bushes, red willow and the broad leafed willow in the bottom lands; the high country on either side of the river is one vast plain, intierely destitute of timber, but is apparently fertile, consistying of a dark rich mellow looking lome. John Shields sifck today with the rheumatism. Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind. Weight one pound. It measured from the tip[ of the tow, to the extremity of the beak, 1 foot 10 inches; from tip to tip of wings when extended 2 feet 5 inches; beak 3 5/8 inches; tale 3 1/8 inches; leg and toe 10 inches. The eye black, piercing, prominent and moderately large. The legs are flat thin, slightly imbricated and of a pale sky blue colour, being covered with freathers as far as the mustle extends down it, which is about half of it’s length. It has four toes on each foot, three of qhich, are connected by a web, the fourth is small and placed at the heel about 1/8 of an inch up the leg. The nails are black and short, that of the middle toe is extremely singular consisting of the two nails the one laping on or overlaying the other, the upper one somewhat the longest and sharpest. The tale contains eleven feathers of equal length, and of a bluish whit colour. The boddy and underside of the wings, except the large feathers of the 1st and 2nd joints of the same, are white as are alsot the freathers of the upper part of the 4th joint of the wind and part of those of the 3rd joint on the upper side and all the small feather which cover the upper part of the wings are black, as are alse the tuft of long feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing, leaving however a stripe of white between them on the back. The head and hneck are shaped much like the grey plover and are of a light brickdust brown; the beak is black and flat, larges where it joins the head, and from thence becoming thiner and tapering to a very sharp mpoint, the upper chap being 1/8 of an inch the longes turns down at the point and forms a little hook. The nostrils, which commence near the head are long, narrow, connected and parallel with the beak; the beak is much curved, the curvature being upwards instead of downwards as is common with most birds; the substance of the beak precisely resembles whalebone at a little distance, and is quite as flexable as that is rather louder and more varied. Their habits appear also to be the same, with this difference; that it sometimes rests on the water ans dwims which I do not recollect haging seen the plover do. This bird which I shall henceforth stile the Missouri plover, generally feeds about the shallow bars of the river, to collect it’s food which consists of [blank space in MS] it immerces it’s beak in the water and throws it’s head and beak from side to side at every step it takes.

May 02, 1805

The wind continued violent all night nor did it abate much of it’s violence this morning, when at daylight it was attended with snow which continued to fall until about 10 AM. Being about one inch deep, it formed a singular contrast with the vegetation which was considerably advanced. Some flowers had put forth in the plains, and the leaves of the cottonwood were as large as a dollar. Sent out some hunters who killed 2 deer 3 elk and several buffaloe; on our way this evening we also shot three beaver along the shore; these animals in consequence of not being hunted are exteemly gentle, where they are hunted they never leave their lodges in the day, the flesh of the beaver is esteemed a delicacy among us; I think the tale a most delicious morsal, when boiled it resembles in flavor. The fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is usually sufficiently large to afford a plentifull meal for two men. Joseph Fields one of the hunters who was out today found several yards of scarlet cloth which had been suspended on the bough of a tree near an old Indian hunting camp, where it had been left as a sacrifice to the deity by the indiands, probably of the Assinniboin nation, it being a custom with them as well as all the nations inhabiting the waters of the Missouri so far as they are known to us, to offer or sacrifice in this manner to the deity wat-ever they may be possessed off which they think most acceptable to him, and very honestly making their own feeling s the test of those of the deity offer him the article method of wershiping the great sperit as they tem the deity, is practived on interesting occations, or to produce the happy eventuation of the important occurrrances incident to human nature, such aas relief from hungar or malady, protection from their enemies or the delivering them into their hands, and with such as cultivate, to prevent the river’s overflowing and destroying their crops etc. Sacrefices of a similar kind are also made to the deceased by their friends and relatives. The are was very piercing this evening the [water] friezed on the oars as they rowed. The wind dying at 5 PM we set out.

Everything which is incomprehensible to the Indians they call big medicine, and is the operation of the presents and power of the great sperit. This morning one of the men shot the Indian dog that had followed us for several days, he would steal their cooked provision.

May 03, 1805

The weather became quite cold, the ice was a quarter of an inch thick in the kettle. At two miles from camp they passed a curious collection of 10 or 12 bushes about 30 feet high, tied in the form of a fascine and standing on end in the center of the low ground. This they supposed to have been left by the Indians as a religious sacrifice. At 14 miles they reached the mouth of a river on the north which from the unusual number of porcupines near it they called Porcupine River, now Poplar River. They reported its water transparent and the only one that was so of all those that fall into the Missouri.

Two-Thousand-Mile Creek. A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek was passed on the south to which on account of its distance they gave the name of Two-Thousand-Mile Creek. Now Red-Water Creek. Toward evening they found for the first time a nest of a goose among some driftwood. All that they had hitherto seen were on the top of a broken tree on the forks and invariably 15 to 20 or more feet in height.

May 04, 1805

They were detailed until nine o'clock in order to repair the rudder of one of the boats. Lewis wrote, 'Soon after setting out the rudder irons of the white Perogue were broken by her running foul on a sawyer, she was however refitted in a few minutes with some tugs of raw hide and nales.' The wolves were very abundant and usually were in bands of ten or twelve and were rarely if ever seen alone, not being able to singly attack a deer or antelope. All of the forepart of the day the river was bordered with timber on both sides, a circumstance very rare to them on the Missouri and the first since they left the Mandans. There was as usual vast quantities of game, extremely gentle. The male buffalo particularly would scarcely give way to them and as they approached merely looked at them for a moment as something new and then quietly resumed their grazing. Camp was made at a distance of 18 miles. In the course of the day they passed some old Indian hunting camps made of driftwood.

May 05, 1805

Captain Clark and one of the hunters (Drewyer) met this evening the largest grizzly bear they had seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack but fled with a most tremendous roar and such was his extraordinary tenacity of life that although five balls passed through his lungs and five other wounds he swam more than half way across the river to a sandbar and lived 20 minutes. He weighed between 500 and 600 pounds and measured 8 feet 7'/z inches from the nose to the extremity of the hind feet, 5 feet 10 inches around the breast, 3 feet 11 inches around the neck, 1 ft. 11 inches around the foreleg and his claws were 4-3/8 inches long.

May 06, 1805

The morning was fair and the wind favorable; they proceeded on very well the greater part of the day. 'The game is in such plenty that it has become a mere amusement to supply the party with provisions.' They made 25 miles to a clump of trees on the north where they passed the night. The next morning there was much driftwood floating and the river was rising. At eleven o'clock the wind became so high that one of the boats was nearly sunk, forcing them to stop until about one o'clock when they proceeded. Camp was made at 15 miles.

May 07, 1805

A fine morning, set out at an early hour; the drift wood begins to come down in consequence of the river’s rising; the water is somewhat clearer than usual, a circumstance I did not expect on it’s rise. At 11 A.M. the wind became so hard that we were compelled to ly by for several hours, one of the small canoes by the bad management of the steersman filled with water and had very nearly sun; we unloaded her and dryed the baggage; at one we proceed on the wind having in same measure abated. The country we passed today on the North side of the river is one of the most beautiful plains we have yet seen, it rises gradually from the river bottom to the hight of 50 or 60 feet, then becoming level as a bowling green, extends back as far as the eye can reach; on the S. side the river hills are more broken and much higher tho’ some little distance back the country becomes level and fertile. No appearance of birnt hills coal or pumicstone, that of salts still continue. Vegitation appears to have advanced very little since the 28th. We continue to see a great number of bald Eagles, I presume they must feed on the carcases of dead animals, for I see no fishing hawks to supply them with their favorite food. The water of the river is so terbid that no bird wich feeds exclusively on fish can subsist on it; from it’s mouth to this place I have neither seen the blue crested fisher nor a fishing hawk. This day we killed 3 buffaloe, 1 elk, and 8 beaver; two of the buffaloe killed by Captain Clark near our encampment of this evening wer in good order dressed them and saved the meat, the elk I killed this morning, thought it fat, but on examination found it so lean that we took the tongue marrowbones and skin only.

May 08, 1805

A light breeze from the east carried them 16 miles when they halted for dinner at the mouth of a river on the north which due to the water's peculiar whiteness, 'such as might be produced by a tablespoonful of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced us to call it Milk River.' Its width at the entrance was 150 yards. In the evening they had made 27 miles, six miles above Milk River, and camped on the south. They observed a place where an Indian had recently taken the hair off an antelope's skin and some of the party thought they distinguisbed imperfectly some smoke and Indian lodges up the Milk River. These signs were by no means desirous of realizing as the Indians were probably Assiniboins and might become troublesome.

May 09, 1805

At 15 1/4 miles they reached the bed of a most extraordinary river on the south. Although as wide as the Missouri, about one-half mile, it did not discharge a drop of water and contained nothing but a few standing pools. 'This stream, if it deserved the name, we called Bigdry River.'

Recipe for Sausage. Also on this date Lewis gives an amusing relation of Chaboneau's cooking suggesting a cross between a sausage and a suet pudding. Here is the recipe: 'From the cow I killed we saved the necessary materials for making what our right-hand cook Charbono calls the boudin blanc ('poudingue'). About 6 feet of the lower extremity of the large gut of the buffalo is the first morsel that the cook makes love to ; this he holds fast at one end with the right hand, while with the forefinger and thumb of the left hand he gently compresses it, and discharges what he says is not good to eat, but of which is squel (sequel) we get a moderate portion ; the mustle lying underneath the shoulder blade next to the back and fillets are next daught, these are needed (kneaded) up very fine with a good portion of the kidney suit (suet) ; to this composition is then added a just proportion of pepper and salt and a small quantity of flour ; thus far advanced our skillful operator seizes his recepticle (the gut), which has never once touched the water, for that would entirely destroy the regular order of the whole procedure; you will not forget that the (out) side you now see is that covered with a good coat of fat, provided the animal be in good order; the operator seizes the recepticle I say, and tying it fast at one end, turns it inwards and begins now with repeated evolutions of the hand and arm, and brisk motions of the finger and thumb to put in what he says is bon pour manger; thus by stuffing and compressing he soon distends the course of its longitudinal progress it drives from the other end of the recepticle a much larger portion of the - than was previously discharged by the finger and thumb in the former part of the operation ; thus when the sides of the recepticle are skillfully exchanged the outer for the inner and all is completely filled with something good to eat it is tied at the other end, but not any cut off, for that would make the pattern too scant ; it is then baptized in the Missouri with two dips and a flirt, and bobbed into the kettle, from whence, after it be well boiled it is taken and fried with bear's oil until it becomes brown, when it is ready to esswage the pangs of a keen appetite or such as travelers in the wilderness are seldom at a loss for.'

May 10, 1805

The party had not proceeded more than 4'la miles when the violence of the wind forced them to halt for the day. The wind continued high, the clouds thick and black with a slight sprinkling of rain several times in the course of the day. Shortly after their landing a dog came to them and this induced the belief that they were near the hunting grounds of the Assiniboins who are a vicious, ill-disposed people necessitating them to be on their guard. They therefore inspected their arms which they found in good order and sent several hunters to scour the country. They returned in the evening having seen no tents nor any recent tracks of Indians.

May 11, 1805

The wind blew hard during the night but having abated this morning they went on until in the afternoon when the wind again retarded their progress. The current too was strong, the river very crooked and the banks as usual were constantly percipitating themselves in large masses into the water. They saw and visited some high hills on the north side about three miles from the river, whose tops were covered with the pitch-pine. This was the first pine they had seen on the Missouri. It was described as like that of Virginia except the leaves were somewhat longer.

Grizzly Bear Wins Respect of the Party. About five in the afternoon one of the men (Bratton) who had been afflicted with boils and allowed to walk on shore came running to the boats with loud cries and every symptom of terror and distress. For some time after he was taken on board he was so out of breath as to be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety. But he at length told them that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him. The bear being badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis with seven men immediately went in search of the bear. Having found his track they followed him by the blood for a mile, found him concealed in thick brushwood and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though somewhat smaller than the one killed a few days before he was a monstrous animal. Bratton had shot him through the center of the lungs yet pursued him furiously for a half mile, then returned more than twice that distance and with his claws prepared a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long. He was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two hours after he had received the wound. 'The wonderful power of life which these animals possess renders them dreadful; their very track in the mud or sand, which we have sometimes found 11 inches long and 7 1/4 inches wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming ; and we had rather encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear.' The fleece and skin o£ the bear was a heavy burden for two men and the oil amounted to eight gallons.


Captain Lewis recorded a resolution : 'I most generally went alone, armed with my rifle and espontoon; thus equipped I feel myself more than a match for a brown bear, provided I get him in open woods or near the water; but feel myself a little diffident with respect to an attack in the open plains. I have therefore come to a resolution to act on the defensive only, should I meet these gentlemen in the open country.' The party covered 16 miles this date and camped on the south side.

May 12, 1805

The weather being clear and calm they set out early, at 18 3/4 miles came to a willow island opposite which they stopped. Here they remained during the rest of the day as the wind had risen so high by twelve that they could not proceed. It continued to blow violently all night, with occasional sprinklings of rain from sunset until midnight. The next day the wind continued high until about one o'clock when they proceeded. The river continued to grow clearer and the increased rapidity of the current was noticed. The game was as usual so abundant that they could get without difficulty all that was necessary.

May 13, 1805

The wind continued to blow so violently this morning that we did not think it prudent to set out. Sent out some hunters. At 1 P.M. the wind abated, and altho’ the hunters had not all returned we set out; the courant reather stronger than usual and the water continues to become reather clearer, from both which I anticipate a change of Country shortly. The country much the same as yesterday; but little timber in the bottoms and a scant proportion of pine an cedar crown the Star hills. Captain Clark who was on shore the greater part of the day killed a mule and a common deer, the party killed several deer and some elk principally for the benefit of their skins which are necessary to them for cloathing, the elk skins I now begin to reserve for making the leather boat at the falls. The hunters joined us this evening; Gibson had wounded a very large brown bear but it was too late in the evening to pursue him.

May 14, 1805

After covering 16 1/2 miles to a timbered point on the north, camp was made. Toward evening the men in the rear canoes discovered a large bear lying in the open grounds about 300 paces from the river. Six of them, all good hunters, immediately went to attack him. Concealing themselves by a small eminence they came unperceived within 40 paces of him. Four of the hunters fired and each lodged a ball in his body, two of them directly through the lungs. The furious animal sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them, as he came near the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him two wounds, one of which broke his shoulder and retarded his motion for a moment. But before they could reload he was so near that they were forced to run to the river and before they reached it the bear had almost overtaken them. Two jumped into the canoe, the other four separated and concealing themselves in the willows fired as fast as each could reload. They hit him several times but instead of weakening the monster, each shot seemed only to direct him toward the hunter until at last he pursued two of them so closely they threw aside their guns and pouches and jumped down a perpendicular bank of 20 feet into the river. The bear sprang in after him, and was within a few feet of one when one of the hunters on shore shot him in the head and finally killed him. They dragged him to the shore and found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions. The bear was old and tough so that they took the skin only and went to camp where the rest of the party had been as much terrified by an accident of a different kind.

Narrow Escape. One of the canoes being under sail was struck by a sudden squall of wind obliquely and turned her considerably, the man at the helm who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party became alarmed and instead of putting her before the wind luffed her up into it. The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square-sail out of the hand of the man attending to it and instantly upset the canoe. Besides the loss of the lives of three men who not being able to swim would probably have perished, they would have been deprived of all their papers, instruments, medicine and almost every article indispensable for the success of their enterprise and at a distance of approximately 3000 miles from any place where they could supply the deficiency. Captain Lewis wrote, 'Which I cannot recollect but with the utmost trepidation and horror, it happened unfortunately for us this evening that Charbono was at the helm of the perogue, instead of Drewyer....Charbono cannot swim and is perhaps the most timid waterman in the world.... the perogue then wrighted but had filled within an inch of the gunwals; Charbono still crying to his god for mercy, had not yet recollected the rudder, nor could the repeated orders of the Bowsman, Cruzat, bring him to his recollection until he threatened to shoot him instantly if he did not do his duty...the fortitude, resolution and good conduct of Cruzat saved her...we thought it a proper occasion to console ourselves and cheer the spirits of our men and accordingly took a drink.'


Sacajawea's conduct on the upsetting of the canoe was a contrast to that of her husband Charboneau. Captain Lewis wrote, 'The Indian woman, to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution with any person on board at the time of the accident, caught and preserved most of the light articles which were washed overboard.'

May 15, 1805

As soon as a slight shower of rain had passed the wet articles were spread out to dry but the weather was so damp and cloudy that little benefit resulted. The hunters brought in deer, buffalo and beaver. The next morning was fair enabling them to dry and repack their stores. The loss sustained was chiefly in the medicines, many of which were completely spoiled. At four o'clock they embarked and after covering seven miles camped on the north near some woods. A white (Grizzly) bear tore the coat of Labiche who had been left on shore. Two of the party wounded a large panther which was feasting on a deer. Some lean antelope were caught as they were swimming the river, two buffalo were killed.

May 16, 1805

The morning was fair and in the day proved favorable to our operations; by 4 o’clock our instruments, medicine, and merchandize provision were perfectly dried, repacked and put on board the pirogue. The loss we sustained was not so great as we had at first apprehended; our medicine entirely spoiled, and many others considerably injured, the balance of our losses consisted of some garden seeds, a small quantity of gunpowder, and a few culinary articles which fell overboard and sunk. The Indian woman to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution, with any person onboard at the time of the accident, caught and preserved most of the light articles which were washed overboard. All matters being now arranged for our departure we lost no time in setting out; proceeded on tolerably well about seven miles. In the early part of the day two of our men fired on a panther, a little below our encampment, and wounded it; they informed us that it was very large, had just killed a deer partly devoured it, and in the act of concealing the balance as they discovered him. We caught two antelopes at our encampment in attempting to swim the river; these animals are but lean as yet, and of course not very pleasant food. I walked on shore this evening and killed a buffaloe cow and calf, we found the calf most excellent veal. The country on either side of the river is broken and hills much higher than usual; the bottoms now become narrow and the timber more scant; some scattering pine and cedar o the steep declivities of the hills. This morning a white bear toar Labuiche’s coat which he had left in the plains.

May 17, 1805

From Lewis, 'We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being firm and the shore bold, we were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious mode of ascending the river, except under said with a steady breeze.' The party covered 20 1/2 miles and passed several small streams, the latter they called Rattlesnake Creek; as Captain Clark narrowly escaped being bitten by one in the course of his walk.

The bed of the Missouri was much narrower than usual, being not more than between 200 and 300 yards in width, with an uncommonly large proportion of gravel. The sandbars and low points covered with willows had almost entirely disappeared. Captain Clark saw on his excursion a fortified Indian camp which appeared to have been recently occupied and they presumed was made by a party of Minnetarees who had gone to war the previous March.


Fire Alarm. Late at night they were aroused by the sergeant of the guard because the camp fire had spread to a tree overhanging the camp. The high wind fanned the fire so rapidly and they had not moved the camp more than a few minutes when a large part of the tree fell precisely on the spot they had occupied and would have crushed them had they not been alarmed in time.

May 18, 1805

The wind continued high but by means of the towline they were able to make 19 miles. The night was disagreeably cold and the next morning there was a heavy fog which obscured the view of the river to the extent that they were unable to see the way. This was the first fog of any degree of thickness they had experienced. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed and they proceeded with the aid of the towline covering 22'/4 miles. Among the game killed was another grizzly bear which shot through the heart ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter of a mile before be fell.

May 19, 1805

The last night was disagreeably cold; we were unable to set out until 8 o’clock A.M. in consequence of a heavy fog, which obscured the river in such a manner that we could not see our way; this is the first we have experienced in any thing like so great a degree; there was also a fall of due last evening, which is the second we have experiencd since we have entered this extensive open country. At eight we set out and proceeded as yesterday by means of the cord principally, the hills are high and the country similar to that of yesterday. Captain Clark waked on shore with two of the hunters and killed a brown bear; notwithstanding that it was shot through the heart it ran at it’s usual pace near a quarter of a mile before it fell. One of the party wounded a beaver, and my dog as usual swam in to catch it; the beaver bit him through the hind leg and cut the artery; it was with great difficulty that I could stop the blood; I fear it will yet prove fatal to him. On Captain Clark’s return he informed me that he had from the top of one of the adjacent hights, discovered the entrance of a large stream which discharged itself into the Missouri.

This afternoon the river was croked, rappid and containing more sawyers than we have seen in the same sace since we left the entrance of the river Platte. Captain Clark in the course of his walk killed three deer and a beaver, I also walked on shore this evening a few miles and killed an elk, a buck, and a beaver. The party killed and caught 4 other beaver, and 3 deer.

May 20, 1805

As usual the party set out early using the towline. The river was narrow and crooked and the water rapid. At the distance of 2 1/4 miles they passed a large creek from the south with but little water, to which they gave the name Blowing-fly creek from the large numbers of these insects found in its vicinity. The flies were extremely troublesome infesting the meat while they were cooking and at their meals. After seven miles, about eleven o'clock they reached the mouth of a large river on the south and camped for the day at the upper point of its junction with the Missouri. This stream they supposed to be that called by the Minnetarees Mahtush (Musselshell) River. Observations included that it emptied into the Missouri at 2,270 miles above its mouth, in latitude 47° 0' 24.6' north, was 110 yards wide, its bed chiefly 5 8 formed of coarse sand and gravel, the water much more transparent than that of the Missouri which though clearer than below still retained a portion of its sediment. Opposite the point of junction the current of the Missouri was gentle, 222 yards wide, its bed principally mud and the water still too deep to use the 'setting pole'. A party explored the Musselshell for eight miles and found, 'About five miles abe (above) the mouth of the (Mussel) Shell River, a handsome river about fifty yards in width discharged itself into the Shell River on the Stard. (Starboard) or upper side; this stream we called Sah-ca-gee-meah or bird woman's River, after our interpreter the Snake woman,' from Lewis' Diary.

May 21, 1805

The party covered 20 miles this date to camp on the north. About dark the wind came up from the northwest and blew a storm all night. They were so annoyed by the clouds of dust and sand that they could neither eat nor sleep and were forced to move their camp at eight o'clock to the foot of an adjoining hill which shielded them in some degree from the wind.

May 22, 1805

The wind continued to blow violently and they did not break camp until ten o'clock when they proceeded principally with the towline. At nine miles, 'Passed the entrance of grows (grouse) creek... on the Stard, side, in a deep bend to the Stard.' named for the quantity of sharp-tailed grouse, the first they had seen in such large numbers for several days. Game was no longer in such abundance since leaving the Musselshell. They caught very few fish above the Mandans and these were white catfish of two to five pounds.

May 23, 1805

Last night the frost was severe; this morning there was ice along the edge of the river and water froze on their oars. The river became more rapid. The wild roses were abundant and in bloom. The mosquitoes were troublesome despite the coolness of the morning. The buffalo were scarce but the elk, deer and antelope were very numerous. The geese were beginning to lose their feathers and were unable to fly. They saw five bears, one of which they wounded but in swimming from them across the river he became entangled in some driftwood and sunk. Camp was made on the north opposite a hill and a point of woods in a bend to the south having made 27 miles.

May 24, 1805

The water in the kettles froze one-eighth of an inch during the night. They proceeded with the towline until about nine o'clock when a breeze came up from the southeast enabling them to sail very well against the rapid current. At one mile and a half passed a stream they named North Mountain creek. The North Mountain to them is the Little Rocky Mountains, which they presumed to be about 15 miles away. A man who was sent to explore the country returned in the evening after having gone ten miles directly towards the ridge of the Little Rock Mountains. 'The air of these highlands is so pure that objects appear much nearer than they really are, so that our man went ten miles without thinking himself by any means halfway to the mountains, they do not from the river appear more than 15 miles distant.' At about 13'Iz miles they passed a stream on the south 40 yards wide which they named South Mountain creek, now called Armells creek, as from its direction it seemed to rise in a range of mountains about 50 or 60 miles to the southwest 5 9 (Judith Mountains). Game was more scarce. The high -country through which they had passed for some days and where they were on this date they supposed to be a continuation of what the French traders called Cote Noire or Black Hills.

May 25, 1805

Two canoes which were left behind the day before to bring on game joined them as they were ready to set out at eight o'clock. The current of the river was strong particularly around the points against which it happened to set and the gullies from the hill had brought down quantities of stone projecting in the river, forming barriers 40 or 50 feet around, which were very difficult to pass. The country on each side was high, broken and rocky. In the course of the day they saw several herds of big-horned animal. Gass wrote, 'Some of the party killed three of what the French and natives call mountain sheep, but they very little resemble sheep, except in the head, horns and feet. They are of a dun colour except on the belly and round the rump, where they are white. The horns of the male are very large; those of the female small. Captain Clarke calls them the Ibex, and says they resemble that animal more than any other. They are in size somewhat larger than a deer.' Camp was made on the south at a distance of 18 miles.

May 26, 1805

The party proceeded at an early hour by means of the towline, using the oars merely in crossing the river to take advantage of the best banks. There were now scarcely any low grounds on the river, the hills being high and in many places pressing on both sides to the verge of the water. At 1 1/4 miles came to the mouth of a creek on the north 30 yards wide which they called Windsor's after one of the party. After covering about 13 miles Captain Lewis ascended the highest summit of the hills on the north side of the river and caught a distant view of the Rocky Mountains-the object of all their hopes and the reward of all their ambitions.

At about five miles farther between high bluffs they passed a very difficult rapid, reaching nearly across the river, where the water was deep and the channel narrow. This was the most considerable rapid they had thus far found, requiring both the rope, the pole and double the crews. As they were laboring over the rapids a female elk with her fawn swam down through the waves which ran very high. Lewis wrote, 'A very considerable ripple which we call Elk Rapids.' Just above where, at 22 1/4 miles, they fixed camp and were joined by Captain Lewis who had been on the hills during the afternoon.

May 27, 1805

The wind was so high that they did not start until ten o'clock. The river had become very rapid with a very perceptible descent. Its general width was about 200 yards with great quantities of stone that has fallen into it and on the bank. After making 12 1/2 miles camp was made on the south near two dead cottonwoods, the only timber for fuel that they could find. The next morning was dark and cloudy, and at ten o'clock there was a sprinkling of rain. An Indian pole for building floated down the river. It was worn at one end as if dragged along the ground in traveling. Several other articles were also brought down by the current which indicated to them that the Indians were probably at no great distance above. Judging from a football which resembled those used by the Minnetarees near the Mandans they deduced that they must be a bank of the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie. Towards evening the country assumed a different aspect to them. The hills retired on both sides from the river which now was three times its former width. The low grounds on the river were again wide and enriched with trees. They congratulated themselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains. One of the party saw a large bear but being at a distance from the river and having no timber to conceal himself he would not venture to fire.

May 28, 1805

This morning we set forward at an early hour; the weather dark and cloudy, the air smokey, had a few drops of rain; we employed the chord generally to which we also gave the assistance of the pole at the riffles, and rocky points; these are as numerous and many of them much worse than those we passed yesterday; around those points the water drives with great force, and we are obliged in many instances to steer our vessels through the apertures formed by the points of large sharp rocks which reach a few inches above the surface of the water, here should our chord give way the bough is instantly driving outwards by the stream and the vessel thrown with her side on the rocks where she must inevitably overset or perhaps be dashed to pieces; our ropes are but slender, all of them except one being made of Elk’s skin and much worn, frequently wet and exposed to the heat of the weather are weak and rotten; they have given way several times in the course of the day but happily at such places that the vessel had room to wheel free of the rocks and therefore escaped injury; with every precaution we can take it is with much labor and infinite risk that we are enabled to get around these points. Found a new Indian lodge pole today which had been brought down by the stream, it was worn at one end as if dragged by dogs or horses; a football also, and several other articles were found, which have been recently brought down by the courant; these are strong evidences of Indians being on the river above us, and probably at no great distance; the football is such as I have seen among the Minetaries and therefore think it most probable that they are a band of the Minetaires of Fort de Prairie. The river country continued much as yesterday until ate in the evening when we arrived at the entrance of a large Creek. We called it Thompson’s Creek named after one of the party.

May 29, 1805

Last night the party was alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A buffalo swam over from the opposite side to the spot where lay one of the canoes, over which he clambered to the shore, then frightened he ran full speed up the bank toward their fires and passed within 18 inches of the heads of some of the men before the sentinel could make him change his course. Still more alarmed he ran down between four fires and within a few inches of the heads of the second row of the men and would have broken into the lodge if the barking of the dog had not stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right and was out of sight in a moment leaving them all in confusion, everyone seized his rifle, and inquired as to the cause of the alarm. They rejoiced at suffering no more injury that the damage to some guns which were in the canoe which the buffalo crossed. In the early morning they left camp and proceeded as usual by the towline. At 2 1/2 miles came to a river on the south which they ascended a mile and a half. 'Capt. C. who ascended this R. much higher than I did has called it Judith's River.' 'The lady thus complimented was Miss Julia Hancock of Fincastle, Va., familiarly called Judie or Judy by her family and intimate friends. Among the latter was Captain Clark, who perhaps had never heard her called Julia, and naturally supposed her name to be Judith. She married Captain Clark at Fincastle, Jan. 5, 1808.' Just above the entrance of Judith's River they saw the fires of 126 lodges which appeared to have been deserted about 12 or 15 days and on the other side of the Missouri was a large camp apparently made by the same nation. Upon examining some moccasins they found there, the Indian woman said they did not belong to her own nation, the Snake Indians, but she thought they indicated a tribe on this side of the Rocky Mountains and to the north of the Missouri, probably the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie.

Buffalo Wantonly Wasted. At the distance of 6'Iz miles the hills again approached the river and the rocks washed down from them formed a rapid more difficult than that passed on the 27th and 28th. On the north they passed a precipice about 120 feet high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least 100 carcasses of buffalo, although the water which had washed away the lower part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffalo had been chased down the precipice in a way common on the Missouri, by which vast herds were destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting was to select one of the most active and fleet young men who was disguised by a buffalo skin around his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffalo. Thus dressed he fixed himself at a convenient distance between a herd of buffalo and any of the river precipices. His companions in the meantime got in rear of and on both sides of the herd and at a given signal show themselves and advance toward the buffaloes. These instantly take the alarm and finding the hunters on three sides run towards the disguised Indian or decoy who leads them on at full speed towards the river. When suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the cliff which he had previously decided on, the herd is left on the brink of the precipice. It is then impossible for the foremost buffaloes to retreat or even to stop. They are pressed on by those in the rear which seeing no danger but the hunters goad on those ahead until the whole are pushed over and the shore is strewn with their dead bodies. Sometimes in this perilous seduction the Indian is himself either trodden under foot or missing his footing in the cliff goes down the precipice with the following herd. The Indians then selected as much meat as desired, left the rest to the wolves and created a most dreadful stench. The wolves which had been feeding on these carcasses were very fat and so gentle that one of them was killed with an espontoon.

A little above this place the party landed for dinner, having covered 17 miles, opposite a stream 20 yards wide on the south side. They gave it the name of Slaughter River from the sight they had just seen. Soon after landing it began to blow and rain; as there was no prospect of getting wood for fuel farther on they fixed camp on the north side three quarters of a mile about Slaughter River. After the labors of the day each man was given a dram and such was the effect of long abstinence from spirituous liquors that from the small quantity of half a gill of rum, several of the men were considerably affected all very much exhilarated.

May 30, 1805

Many circumstances indicated their approach to a climate differing considerably from that of the country which they had been passing. Despite the frequent rains they observed that the air was astonishingly dry and pure. The case of their sextant, though perfectly seasoned, shrank and the joints opened. They tried several experiments by which it appeared that a tablespoonful of water exposed in a saucer to the air would evaporate in 36 hours when the mercury did not reach higher than 55° F. at the greatest heat of the day.

Difficulty in Advancing. The river, notwithstanding the rain, was much clearer than it was a few days past. They advanced with great labor and difficulty caused by the rapid current, the ripples and rocky points; in addition to the banks were so slippery after the rains that the men who drew the canoes could scarcely walk, and the earth and stone constantly falling down the high bluffs made it dangerous to pass under them. Still they were obliged to make use of the towline as the wind was strong ahead, the current too rapid for oars and too deep to use the pole. The eight miles made on this date cost them much trouble, as the air was cold and rendered more disagreeable by the rain. The towing cords broke several times but fortunately without injury to the boats.

May 31, 1805

They proceeded in the two periogues, leaving the canoes to bring on the meat of two buffaloes killed the evening before. The obstructions of the previous day continued and fatigued the men excessively. The banks were so slippery in some places and the mud so adhesive that they were unable to wear their moccasins. One-fourth of the time they were up to their armpits in the cold water and sometimes they walked for several yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from above. All this, added to the burden of dragging the heavy canoes was very painful, yet the men bore it with great patience and good humor. Once the rope, the only one they had made of hemp, broke short and the periogue swung and touched a point of rock that almost upset her. At nine miles they came to a high wall of black rock rising from the water's edge on the south. This continued about a quarter of a mile and was succeeded by a high open plain; three miles farther a wall of the same kind about 200 feet high, appeared to the north. These hills exhibited a most extraordinary and romantic appearance to them. Among the animals seen were a great number of bighorn, a few buffalo and elk and some mule deer. They saw but could not procure a beautiful (cross) fox of a color varied with orange, yellow, white and black, and 'about the same size as the red fox of the United States.' Camp was made after having covered 18 miles.

June 01, 1805

The weather continued cloudy with a few drops of rain. The river was from 200 to 250 feet wide, the current more gentle, the water still clearer and rocky points and shoals fewer than the day before, though these they did encounter were equally difficult to pass. Game was by no means as plentiful as below; all they obtained was one bighorn and a mule deer. The wind was ahead all day, and they dragged the canoes 23 miles to camp on an island near a high bluff on the north. The wind blew violently that night with a slight shower of rain. The next morning was fair and they set out early. Although the wind was still against them they made better progress with the towing as the banks were better for walking.

Another Bear Encounter. As the game was again very abundant they thought it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose of making a 'leathern' boat which they intended to construct shortly. The hunters, who were out the greater part of the day, brought in six elk, two buffalo, two mule deer and a bear. This bear nearly cost the lives of two of the hunters who were together when he attacked them. One of them narrowly escaped being caught, the other after running a considerable distance, concealed himself in some thick bushes and while the bear was in quick pursuit of his hiding place his companion came up and fortunately shot the animal through the head. Camp was made at a distance of 18 miles on the south opposite a large (Maria's) river. Celestial observations were made during the night.

June 02, 1805

The wind blew violently last night and was attended by a slight shower of rain; the morning was fair and we set out at an early hour. Imployed the chord as usual the greater part of the day. The courant was strong tho’ regular, and the banks afforded us good toeing. The wind was hard and against us yet we proceded with infinitely more ease than the two precedeing days. The river bluffs still continue to get lower and the plains leveler and more extensive; the timber on the river increases in quantity; the country in all other respects much as described yesterday. I think we are now completely above the black hills. We had a small shower of rain today but it lasted only a few minutes and was very moderate. Game becoming more abundant this morning and I thought it best now to loose no time or suffer an opportunity to escape in providing the necessary quantity of Elk’s skins to cover my leather boat which I know expect I shall be obliged to use shortly. Accordingly I walked on shore most of the day with some of the hunters for that purpose and killed 6 elk 2 buffalo 2 mule deer and a bear, these animals were all in good order we therefore took as much of the meat as our canoes and pirogues could conveniently carry. The bear was very near catching Drewyer; it also pursued Charbono who fired his gun in the air as he ran but fortunately eluded the vigilance of the bear by secreting himself very securely in the bushes until Drewyer finally killed it by a shot in the head; the only shot indeed that will conquer the farocity of those tremendious animals. In the course of the day we passed 9 Islands all of them small and most of them containing some timber. We came too on the Lard. Side in a handsome bottom of small cottonwood timber opposite to the entrance of a very considerable river; but it being too late to examine these rivers minutely to night we determined to remain here untill the morning, and as the evening was favourable to make some observations.

June 03, 1805

They crossed the river and fixed camp at the point formed by the junction of this river and the Missouri. It now became an interesting question which of these two streams was the Missouri. On their right decision much of the fate of the expedition depended. Since if after ascending to the Rocky Mountains or beyond them, they should find that the river they were following did not come near the Columbia and be obliged to return, they would not only lose the traveling season, two months of which already had elapsed, but probably dishearten the men so much as to induce them to either abandon the enterprise or yield a cold obedience instead of the warm and zealous support they had hitherto afforded. They determined therefore to examine it well before they decided on their future course. For this purpose two canoes with three men each were dispatched, one up each stream, to ascertain its width, depth, and rapidity of current, so as to make a comparison of the bodies of water. Gass wrote, 'The commanding officers could not determine which of these rivers or branches it was proper to take, and therefore concluded to send a small party up each of them. Myself and two men went up the south branch, and a sergeant and two more up the north. The parties went up the two branches about 15 miles. We found the south branch rapid with a great many islands and the general course southwest. The other party reported the north branch less rapid and not so deep as the other. The north branch was 186 yards wide and the south 372 yards. The water of the south branch was clear, and that of the north muddy. About a mile and a half up the point from the confluence a handsome little river falls into the north branch called Rose River.'

The character of the north fork so much resembled those of the Missouri that almost all of the party believed that to be the true course to be pursued. The captains, however, were inclined to think otherwise because the north branch did not give the color and character to the Missouri. What embarrassed them most was that the Indians who appeared to have been well acquainted with the geography of the country had not mentioned this northern river. All their findings were far from deciding the important question of their future route. They therefore determined that each captain was to ascend one of the rivers during a day and a half's march or further if necessary for their satisfaction. The fatigue of the past few days had occasioned some falling off in the appearance of the men, not having been able to wear moccasins their feet were much bruised and mangled in passing over the rocks and rough ground. They were, however, perfectly cheerful and had an undiminished ardor for the expedition.

June 04, 1805

Captain Lewis with six men; Sergeant Pryor, Privates Drewyer, Shields Windsor, Cruzatte and Lepage, crossed the north fork near their camp and proceeded up the river. On the morning of June 6 Captain Lewis was convinced that the north fork pursued a direction too far north for their route to the Pacific and therefore resolved to return, but waited until noon to take a meridian altitude. The clouds, however, prevented an observation. Two rafts were prepared and about noon the party embarked downstream. They soon found that the rafts were so small and slender that the baggage became wet. Therefore it was necessary to abandon them and go by land, covering 23 miles by nightfall.

June 05, 1805

This morning was cloudy and so could that I was obliged to have recourse to a blanket coat in order to keep myself comfortable altho’ walking. The rain continued during the greater part of the last night. The wind hard from NW we set out at sunrise and proceeded up the river eight miles on the course last taken yesterday evening. On this course we passed through the plains found the plains as yesterday extremely level and beautiful, great quantities of buffaloe, some wolves foxes and antelopes seen. Near the river the plain is cut by deep ravenes in this plain and from one to nine miles from the river or any water, we saw the largest collection of the burrowing or barking squirrels that we had ever yet seen; we passed through a skirt of the territory of this community for about 7 miles: I saw a flock of the mountain cock, or a large species of heath hen with a long pointed tail which the Indians informed us were common to the rocky Mountains. I sent Shields to kill one of them but he was obliged to fire a long distance at them and missed his aim. As we had not killed or eat anything today we each killed a burrowing squirrel as we passed them in order to make sure of our suppers. We again intersepted the river at the expiration of the last course and killed five elk and a blacktailed mule or deer and encamped by the river. The river is about 80 yards wide with a strong steady courant and from 6 to 10 feet of water. I had the burrowing squirrels roasted by way of experiment and found the flesh well flavored and tender; some of them were very fat.

June 06, 1805

I now became well convinced that this branch of the Missouri had it’s direction too much to the north for our route to the Pacific, and therefore determined to return the next day. The forepart of the last evening was fair but in the latter part of the night clouded up and continued so with short intervals of sunshine until a little before noon when the whole horizon was overcast, and I of course disappointed in making the observation which I much wished. I had sent Sergeant Pryor and Windsor early this morning with orders to proceed up the river to some commanding eminence and take it’s bearing as far as possible. In the mean time the four others and myself were busily engaged in making two rafts on which we purposed descending the river; we had just completed this work when Sergeant Pryor and Windsor returned, it being about noon; they reported that they had proceeded from hence S 70. W 6 M. to the summit of a commanding eminence from whence the river on their left was about 2.5 miles distant; we now took dinner and embarked with our plunder and five Elk’s skins on the rafts but were soon convinced that this mode of navigation was hazardous particularly with those rafts they bing too small and slender. We wet a part of our baggage and were near loosing one of our guns. I therefore determined to abandon the rafts and return as we had come, by land. I regretted much being obliged to leave my Elk’s skins, which I wanted to assist in forming my leather boat; those we had prepared at Fort Mandan being injured in such manner that they would not answer. We again swung our packs and took our way through the open plains for about 12 miles when we struck the river; the wind blew a storm from NE accompanied by frequent showers of rain; we were wet and very cold. Continued our route down the river only a few miles before the abruptness of the cliffs and their near approach to the river compelled us take the plains and once more face the storm; here we boar reather too much to the North an dit was late in the evening before we reached the river, in our way we killed two buffaloe and took with us as much of the flesh as served us that night, and a part of the next day. We encamped a little below the entrance of the large dry Creek called Lark C. having traveled about 23 miles since noon. It continues to rain and we have no shelter an uncomfortable nights rest is the natural consequence.

June 07, 1805

Captain Lewis and party continued down the river, the route was extremely unpleasant as there was a high wind accompanied with rain which made the ground so slippery that they were unable to walk over the bluffs which they passed on ascending the river. In passing along the side of one of these bluffs at a narrow pass 30 yards in length, Captain Lewis slipped, and but for a fortunate recovery by means of his espontoon, would have 6 4 been precipitated into the river over a precipice of about 90 feet. He had reached a spot where he could stand with safety by the assistance of his espontoon, when he heard a voice behind him cry out, 'Good God! Captain, what shall I do?' He turned instantly and found it was Windsor who had lost his foothold about the middle of the narrow pass and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice where he lay on his stomach with his right arm and leg over the precipice, while with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty holding on the keep himself from falling on the rock below. Captain Lewis realizing his dreadful situation stifled his alarm by telling him he was in no danger, that he should take a knife out of his belt with his right hand and dig a hole in the side of the bluff in which to place his right foot. With great presence of mind he did this and then raised himself on his knees. Captain Lewis told him to take off his moccasins and crawl forward on his hands and knees, holding the knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. He crawled in this manner until he reached a secure spot. The other men who had not attempted this passage were ordered to backtrack, descend to the foot of the cliff and wade the river where they found the water about four feet deep. This adventure taught them the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river. Since the plains were intersected by deep ravines almost as difficult to pass they continued down the river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, sometimes in water up to their arms and when it became too deep to wade they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In this way they traveled through the rain, mud and water and having made only 18 miles during the whole day, camped in an old Indian lodge of sticks which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked part of six deer they had killed in the course of their walk and having eaten the only morsel they had tasted during the whole day, slept comfortably on some willow boughs.