Section 1) Germination of Mesemb Seed (esp. Lithops)

      Section 2) Plant Patents, general material




      Section 1)

        OK, here's the skinny, from a great tome on cactus and mesembs (Lithops
are in the family of Mesemb....unspellable, slightly offset from the rest of
the world; plus, Lithops are south African, while cacti are virtually all new
world plants).
*ahem*
        The best time is to sow the seed during the warm days of May and June.
        The compost should consist of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould or peat,
and coarse sand. The ingredients should be sterilized (steam sterilizing is
best; he goes into technique). When mixing the compost, it is as well to
incorporate a little carbonate of lime, as these plants like lime (a light
dusting would suffice, IMHO).
        The seed may be sown in divisions, in a pan. Thin strips of glass will
do very well to keep each type of seed separated. Alternatively, wooden labels
may be used for this. The best idea, though, is to give one pot to each
species.
        The pots are arranged by filling them at least 1/3 full with drainage
material; put peat over this, then put the compost on top, filling the pot to
within 1/2 inch of the rim. It is as well to sieve the last 1/4 inch, so that
tender young roots can find their way down into the soil with little
difficulty. Level off the soil in the pots, and press down lightly to produce a
flat, firm surface.
        The seed may now be scattered, thinly, over the surface of the soil.
Most of it is very minute, so great care must be taken to ensure that it is
evenly distributed. You should leave the seed uncovered.
        Place the pots in a container of water with the level half way up the
pots. Allow the water to soak gently to the surface until it is damp. Then
place the pots in a shady place in the greenhouse. Do NOT cover them with
glass, paper, or any other covering.
        With the temperature about 60F, germination may be expected to take
place in anything from 3-30 days. As soon as the minute green shoots appear,
the pot should be moved to a light place, although it is not advisable to epose
(expose) the plantlets to full sunlight until they are about 1 month old. After
that time, they should be allowed as much sun and fresh air as can be provided.
If they are very thickly sown, they may be transplanted when about 3 months
old. This will provide quicker growth than ifthey are left in the original pots
for the first 12 months.
        The pots should not, at any time, be allowed to dry out completely,
most particularly before germination has taken place. It is advantageous to
continue watering them from the bottom part of the pot for the first six
months, at least.
        The seedlings should be kept growing for the first year, but it is best
to observe the resting epriod during the second year of growth, during which
time they should be adult plants in miniature. Subsequent treatment will be as
for miniature plants.
        Repotting: same as the original mix, plus 1 part limestone grit. These
plants like lime, and they do not like a close compost. As they grow older, cut
down the watering considerably, until in the second year they are allowed to
dry out completely before more water is given.

        *Phew!*
        In place of his mix, you might try 1/3 potting mix, 1/3 added perlite,
and 1/3 sand, maybe a bit heavier on the sand, esp. at the top of the mix box.
        OK, here's the skinny, from a great tome on cactus and mesembs (Lithops
are in the family of Mesemb....unspellable, slightly offset from the rest of
the world; plus, Lithops are south African, while cacti are virtually all new
world plants).
*ahem*
        The best time is to sow the seed during the warm days of May and June.
        The compost should consist of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould or peat,
and coarse sand. The ingredients should be sterilized (steam sterilizing is
best; he goes into technique). When mixing the compost, it is as well to
incorporate a little carbonate of lime, as these plants like lime (a light
dusting would suffice, IMHO).
        The seed may be sown in divisions, in a pan. Thin strips of glass will
do very well to keep each type of seed separated. Alternatively, wooden labels
may be used for this. The best idea, though, is to give one pot to each
species.
        The pots are arranged by filling them at least 1/3 full with drainage
material; put peat over this, then put the compost on top, filling the pot to
within 1/2 inch of the rim. It is as well to sieve the last 1/4 inch, so that
tender young roots can find their way down into the soil with little
difficulty. Level off the soil in the pots, and press down lightly to produce a
flat, firm surface.
        The seed may now be scattered, thinly, over the surface of the soil.
Most of it is very minute, so great care must be taken to ensure that it is
evenly distributed. You should leave the seed uncovered.
        Place the pots in a container of water with the level half way up the
pots. Allow the water to soak gently to the surface until it is damp. Then
place the pots in a shady place in the greenhouse. Do NOT cover them with
glass, paper, or any other covering.
        With the temperature about 60F, germination may be expected to take
place in anything from 3-30 days. As soon as the minute green shoots appear,
the pot should be moved to a light place, although it is not advisable to epose
(expose) the plantlets to full sunlight until they are about 1 month old. After
that time, they should be allowed as much sun and fresh air as can be provided.
If they are very thickly sown, they may be transplanted when about 3 months
old. This will provide quicker growth than ifthey are left in the original pots
for the first 12 months.
        The pots should not, at any time, be allowed to dry out completely,
most particularly before germination has taken place. It is advantageous to
continue watering them from the bottom part of the pot for the first six
months, at least.
        The seedlings should be kept growing for the first year, but it is best
to observe the resting epriod during the second year of growth, during which
time they should be adult plants in miniature. Subsequent treatment will be as
for miniature plants.
        Repotting: same as the original mix, plus 1 part limestone grit. These
plants like lime, and they do not like a close compost. As they grow older, cut
down the watering considerably, until in the second year they are allowed to
dry out completely before more water is given.

        *Phew!*
        In place of his mix, you might try 1/3 potting mix, 1/3 added perlite,
and 1/3 sand, maybe a bit heavier on the sand, esp. at the top of the mix box.





      Section 2)

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 01:07:59 -0500 (EST)
From: OrchidZ@prodigy.com (KIRK A ZENTNER)
Subject: [7889] US Plant Patent Summary

There has been lots of discussion here lately about plant patents,
including a fair amount of fact, much opinion and a few mistakes.  There
seems to still be some confusion as well. I thought it might be useful to
try to consisely (re)state some facts about US plant patent law.  Some of
the following is paraphrased from _Plant Propagation: Principles and
Practices_ (Hartmann/Kester..).

        It is possible to obtain a patent on a plant in the US.  This has
      been true since 1930 when US Patent Law was amended to allow it.

        You can get a patent on "any distinct and new variety of plant,
    including cultivated sports, mutants, hybrids, and newly found
seedlings, other than a tuber-propagated plant or a plant found in
an uncultivated state".  A plant found growing wild is not
considered patentable.

        To be patentable, a plant must be asexually reproduced         and
propagated commercially (cloned by one means or another).
        The person applying for the patent must have invented or
discovered, and propagated the plant his/herself.  If that person
did not invent or discover and propagate the plant, the patent is
void.  A plant that is stolen or illegally collected, imported or
held can't be patented.

        The owner of a plant patent has the right to excluded others from
      propagating, selling or distributing the patented plant. However,
     if patent rights are violated the patent holder must defend those
   rights by filing a civil suit.  There are no legal penalties.

        Patent rights can be assigned, licensed or sold, and last for 17
     years from when the patent is issued.  After that, the patented
 cultivar can be freely propagated and distributed.

        A US patent applies only in the US.

        It is possible to patent a particular plant/clone of a species, as
       long as all the rules are met.

        It is not possible to patent a whole species or natural population.
        If you find a unique use or application for a species or its genes
       or natural products, that use or application may be patentable, but
        that is not a plant patent.

        Anyone can use a patented clone for further conventional breeding,
       including self-pollination.  This use is not restricted in any way.
        Also, if polyploidy or mutation occurs a distinctly different
  individual may be produced which would not be covered by the
patent, but which could in turn be patented by whoever induced or
discovered it.

        Since 1970, the Plant Variety Protection Act has provided similar
       protection to sexually propagated cultivars, but unless/until
 someone develops an orchid line or hybrid that breeds true from
seed and wants to apply under this act, this does not apply to
orchids.  Only then could a whole grex be patented.

So much for the facts, now I'll express a couple opinions.  To those who
have expressed doubts about patenting orchids:

Why shouldn't someone who has invested their time, money and effort in
developing and marketing new orchid cultivars have the right to restrict
the propagation and distribution of their product in an attempt to maximize
the return on their investment?  For some individuals and companies this is
part of their business.  Do you work for free?

Would you seriously suggest that someone who makes a profit on a new orchid
hybrid should make payments to those who bred the parents or to the
countries where the germ plasm originated? If you wrote a book, would you
give the royalties to every writer whose work you learned from, or to the
person who taught you the alphabet?  If you invented a better mouse trap
would you feel compelled to give your profits to the person who invented
the first mouse trap or to the countries where the raw materials originated?


Kirk Zentner
OrchidZ@prodigy.com
Madison, Wisconsin, USA