The Family of Orchids
            by Aaron J. Hicks
 
      With MANY thanks to:
      Bruce Ide (American Orchid Society)
      Rod Venger (Venger's Orchids)
 
      No group of plants has been more deeply immersed in lore and fiction
than those of the orchids; black orchids and wild orchids, from Nero Wolfe to
Charles Darwin, no single group of flower can lay claim to the mystique that
orchids have, and still do.
      Of some 650 recognized genera of orchids, only 100 or so are commonly
brought into cultivation; the neophyte will be introduced to a handful of this
amount, possibly a dozen or so at the most.
      The single greatest fallacy of orchid culture is that they are
incredibly difficult to grow; to the contrary, the majority of the species
and hybrids that are commercially available are quite easy to raise, given
the proper set of conditions. It has been said before that if one can raise
African Violets, that you can raise orchids as well. As a matter of fact, the
entire family of orchids is remarkably adaptable to home conditions; I have
personally seen orchids raised in all environs, from steamy hothouses, to
collections intermixed with cacti and succulents. The best rule of thumb to
remember is that orchids are remarkably varied; given all the hybrids and
species on the market, one is likely to be able to find a number of plants
suitable to your own specific growing conditions.
      And how does one best accomplish this? Most dealers are very supportive
of new growers, and can help by guiding you to plants that are more readily
cultured. Of course, any guidelines such as "Easy to grow" should be taken
from the same perspective as one would take for any other plant-  the division
off of that Iris in your yard, for example, that grows like a weed died the
minute your neighbor put their hands on it.
      With this in mind, there are three primary temperature groups that
orchids tend to fall into- cold, warm and intermediate growers. People in the
southwest will have difficulty growing cool-growing Miltonias, and people in
Minnesota will be distressed by their heating bills should they decide to
raise Phalaenopsis by the hundreds. Rough guidelines are given with the
culture section to follow.
 
      This FAQ is not designed to turn someone who has had a single plant
with a tattered and faded label thrust into their care into a world-class
culturist; there is only one thing that can do that, and that is experience.
Experience with orchids comes primarily in one form: killing them. For every
experienced orchid grower comes a price other than that which is on the tag,
and that is killing orchids. Many are not particularly finicky plants, but it
may simply be your current horticultural conditions that caused that case of
black rot, or dehydrated the plant, or something else that caused an awful
fate to befall your once-robust specimen. So beware! the "expert" in orchids
who claims they never killed a plant- they are not telling the truth....
 
 
      1) Technical background
      The family Orchidacea is comprised of (approximately) 650 genera, with
an estimated 25,000 to 35,000 species. They are found on every continent
excepting Antarctica. Estimates of the number of hybrids extends into the
200,000 mark. The bulk of the species that are brought into cultivation are
tropical and epiphytic, although many types are terrestrial in nature, and
there are orchids native to virtually every portion of the globe.
       Their epiphytic nature (meaning that they grow primarily upon other
plants) presented a great problem to early would-be orchidphiles. Despite
great protest from the adventurers who brought them back, culturists insisted
on plunging them into barrels of sawdust that were in overheated growing rooms
nearly saturated with water; this assured killing the plant in very short
order, both by smothering the roots and through rot.
      Today, it is widely recognized that the epiphytic species live
attached to branches of immense tropical trees, adhesed to the massive
branches through tough roots. They are bathed constantly in moving air, and
in many areas, the primary source of water is from morning dew, rather than
rain. It is in this environment, with bromeliads and tropical ferns, that
these plants thrive- subsisting on little nutrient content than what is
supplied by bird droppings, and by tiny bits of tree bark trapped between
their roots.
 
      2) Cultural
      In culture, these conditions are simulated to the best of our ability
by providing the roots of a potted specimen with as much air as possible (for
the majority of cultured plants), by using highly porous media, and by keeping
the plants themselves in conditions similar to those they are naturally from,
by moderating their water sources, and preventing stagnant air.
      Another technique for growing orchids is to "plaque" them, which
entails wiring a plant to a slab of cork, osmunda or other suitable growing
media, and then allowing the plant to grow onto it in the same manner as they
would do so in the wild; these plants do best under conditions that have
considerably higher humidity than that which is seen in most homes, as the
roots are not kept as moist for as long as they are in a pot. For most
greenhouses, they are very acceptable.
 
      Water: water, as orchids receive it in nature, is generally nearly as
pure as distilled water. As such, it makes tap water look more like mineral
sludge. Oddly, even in areas with generally very hard water, this does not
provide much of a problem, unless these salts are not flushed from the pot
with copious quantities of water periodically. Of course, babying your plants
with either distilled or reverse osmosis (RO) water may help you prevent this.
      Should heavy white crusts appear on the media you are culturing your
plants in, be certain to periodically flush the pot (i.e., whenever you water)
with copious quantities of water- at least until there is considerable water
coming out of the drain holes. Care, in this sense, is not that much different
than that of most other house plants: excess salts will dehydrate the roots,
through osmosis, and eventually damage or kill the plant. Fortunately, this
takes considerable time, and is generally quite reversible until serious
damage occurs.
      The best rule for watering orchids: whenever they need it. Plants like
Cattleyas and Phalaenopsis require that the media dries out (perferably not
bone-dry) between waterings; this keeps the roots from rotting and, if you
are using an organic media, keeps the media from rotting. It also helps
discourage insects and other plant pests.
      If in doubt as to whether or not to water: don't. Withholding water
will rarely kill these plants (exceptions: Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums,
whose roots need to be moist -not soaking- or they can be damaged. Also plaqued
plants, which should be misted regularly, especially when humidity is low, for
reasons already mentioned).
      Watering should be performed as early in the day as possible, which
allows for water accidentally splashed on the leaves to evaporate, as this
may cause rot if allowed to remain for a period of time. Try not to spill
water into the crowns of sensitive plants, such as Phalaenopsis and
Paphiopedilums.
      Fertilizing: Keep in mind these are plants that normally live off of
decaying bark and bird droppings; the former is one of the reasons that I use
primarily organic mixes. As the mix breaks down, it supplies certain
concentrations of nutrients.
       Supplimentation is best provided through the use of any water-soluble
fertilizer, although most orchid growers that have access to it, use Peter's
for Orchids, which is 30-10-10, and has extra iron added. On the other hand,
virtually any 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 will do; use half the recommended quantity,
and use it with less frequency than is recommended on the label. How often you
should apply it depends upon how actively the plant is growing, how often you
are watering it, and how big your pots are (and, therefore, how long it takes
for them to dry out). Some growers also use Superthrive, at either recommended,
or reduced, concentration.
       Humidity: humidity for optimal growth of orchids is approximately 50%
to 80%, but this can be dropped if the plant has exceptional root systems, or
is of a type that does not respond negatively to low humidity (I have found a
number of Mexican species do well in low humidity, for example). Should
humidity rise much above 75%, it is suggested that air circulation should be
increased. Orchids do well in kitchens, over the sink, or in the bathroom.
      Air circulation: as orchids normally live in the tops of trees, bathed
in air, they tend to do better, especially when they are in larger collections,
when the quantity of air circulation is maintained at a high rate. This may be
established by providing your growing area with an osciallating fan or two.
Most commercial greenhouses maintain a high rate of air circulation for their
plants; water that pools in and on plants will tend to evaporate more readily
in a light breeze than they normally would, which will help prevent rot and
decay of plants.
 
      The media: Oh, BOY. Where do we start here...
       Orchids may be potted in one of a variety of media, including redwood
or fir bark, tree fern fiber, charcoal, osmunda (the dried roots of the
Osmunda fern), coconut fiber, pumice, lava rock, sphagnum moss, singly or in
any combination of these compounds, and many, many more.
      A bit of advice: until you learn what works best for YOU under YOUR
growing conditions, do not make radcial changes. The author personally knows
of one grower who, after going to a lecture on how WONDERFUL lava rock was for
HIS plants, thought it would be a good idea to rip up all of his plants, and
plunge them into lava rock. They all died, as lava rock was not good for his
conditions.
      Unless otherwise noted, fir bark seems to be best for most of the
epiphytic species of orchids that the novice will encounter. It is inexpensive,
easy to work with, and readily available. For Phalaenopsis, I personally perfer
a mix that holds water a bit better than bark, so I use a combination of
sphagnum moss, a bit of bark, a bit of cork, some perlite and charcoal. With
Cattleyas, most any mix will work. With Paphs and Phrags, although fir bark
has been used (with or without vermiculite), I prefer a mix that holds
considerably more water; one trick I have been introduced to is to use chunks
of foam rubber, about 1/4S cubes (as much as you can make a cube with foam
rubber and a pair of scissors), which seems to "breathe" well.
      Do NOT go immediately into "exotic" mixes that people "swear by",
unless they have traditional components in them; again, they may work well for
someone else, but your growing conditions are most probably very different.
      A popular source for orchid growing mixes:
      OFE International, Inc.
      P.O. Box 164402
      Miami, FL 33116 (305) 253-7080
 
 
      Pots: as orchid roots like air, the more ventilation, the better. A
small handful of styrofoam chips, placed in the bottom of the pot, make for
better ventilation. With HUGE plants, inverting a smaller pot in the center of
the bottom of the larger pot when repoting greatly increases the quantity of
air that reaches the roots; as orchid root systems may be rather small in the
center of such large plants, this will not hurt them. It also makes the pot
considerably lighter, and keeps the center of the pot, media and roots, from
rotting.
      When potting orchids, I generally use plastic, as the roots tend to
come off of it better when repotting next time, and is lighter than plastic.
It is also more readily broken without harming the plant, should the plant
grow into the pot to a degree where this becomes necessary.
 
      How to repot orchids is an art more than a science; most of it depends
upon telling when a plant should be repotted. First rule: never repot a dormant
plant. Spring is the best time; Cattleya types should have new growths about
2-3" long, and roots starting to appear at the base of the growth. Phals
should not be in spike, and should be actively growing.
       Generally, orchids only need to be repotted for two reasons: they are
coming out of the pot, or the media is rotting out from under them. If you
have a Cattleya or a Dendrobium where there are new growths RhangingS in
mid-air, outside of the pot, it is time to repot. If the media, when you
dig down a bit, is black and mushy, it is time to repot. Most of all, don't
be pot-happy: most orchids like a *tiny* bit of restriction, and many can
stay in pots for several years (4-5 years, up to 8).
      Pots should be sterilized first: clay by baking them, or plastic by
soaking them in 10% Chlorox for 1 hour or more. Wash well before potting, of
course, just like your hands. Take the plant to be repotted, and remove all
the media possible. Invert the pot, and remove the plant as best as possible
(yes, you probably will tear roots; do not touch open orchid wounds, to
prevent accidental viral infection). Remove all old media, and discard; do NOT
use this for potting another plant, as the old plant may be virused, and could
infect another plant. Place it in the cleaned pot, which should be sized
appropriately to allow for growth. With Cattleyas that have a "line" of
growth, give the plant plenty of room in the direction that the new growth is
heading; this is to say, you can even "push" it into the corner of the pot
opposite that of the new growth. Fill in with the media of your choice, and
tamp and settle it. Cumbersome plants may need staking or other support.
Should you require support, I suggest calling a friend. :-)
 
       Additional cultural information can be had from:
      The American Orchid Society
      6000 South Olive Avenue
      West Palm Beach, FL 33405
 
      They produce the American Orchid Society Bulletin, which is published
monthly, lavishly illustrated with color photographs of orchids, and dedicates
a good portion of their periodical to advertisements, which will allow you to
expand your collection. Caution: orchids are habit forming!
      The AOS Bulletin is NOT a rinky-dink publication!
      The AOS is also the governing body behind judging the quality of
plants. The primary scheme goes something like this:
 
       FCC/AOS: First Class Certificate, American Orchid Society. This is the
highest award an orchid can receive under the AOS. Precious few are awarded
each year.
 
       AM/AOS: Award of Merit, AOS. This is the second-highest award granted
by the AOS. Several are granted each year.
 
       HCC/AOS: Horticultural Certificate of Commendation, AOS. Third-highest
award under the system of judging.

Although an FCC will most likely be quite expensive for a period of time after
it is awarded, eventually such popularity wanes, and plants can be had for
considerably less after this period. Replacing AOS with RHS means the award
was granted by the prestigous Royal Horticultural Society, which has some
different awards, but are no less scrupulous in their granting of awards.
 
      A list of types of awards,as granted by the American Orchid
Society (from The Handbook on Orchid Nomenclature and Registration):
 
AD   Award of Distinction
AGM  Award of Garden Merit
AM   Award of Merit
AQ   Award of Quality
BA   Bronze Award
BC   Botanical Certificate
BM   Bronze Medal
BMC  Bronze Medal Certificate
BRC  Bronze Certificate
CBM  Certificate of Botanical Merit
CBR  Certificate of Botanical Recognition
CC   Certificate of Cultural Commendation
CCM Certificate of Cultural Merit
CHM  Certificate of Horticultural Merit
CPC  Certificate of Preliminary Commendation
FCC  First Class Certificate
FCD  First Class Diploma
GC   Gold Certificate
GM   Gold Medal
GMC  Gold Medal Certificate
HCC  Highly Commended Certificate
JC   Judges Commendation
PC   Preliminary Commendation
RHC  Rare Hybrid Certificate
SC   Silver Certificate
SM   Silver Medal
SMC  Silver Medal Certificate
SMM  Silver Medal of Merit
 
      A partial list of the RHS awards:
 
RHS Awards
FCC= First Class Certificate
AM= Award of Merit
CCC= Certificate of Cultural Commendation
PC= Certificate of Preliminary Commendation
 
 
      It is highly recommended that the reader subscribe to the AOS Bulletin;
it is a first-class journal, bursting with articles on technique, on culture,
and on the latest in orchid science and politics.


      There are several "subfamilies" of orchids, and, with notable
exceptions, the rules are fairly similar.
 
      First, a word on native species of orchids.
      Native species of orchids are beautiful. It has been asked many times,
where they can be purchased, how they transplant, the best ways to cultivate
them and so forth.
      The basic rule is this: unless you have them growing on your property
already, you will not be able to culture native American orchids. The reason
is fairly simple: in the wild, orchids require the presence of a special
mycorrhyzial fungus that lives in symbiosis with the plant. The plant
provides a home, the fungus provides compounds for the plant to thrive. When
transplanted, the roots are shocked tremendously, and this may disrupt, or
even kill, the fungus. The plant may come up weakly the first year, more
weakly the second, and probably not at all the third: the plant will probably
not flower at all.
      Even if a significant portion of the root system is taken with the
plant, and the trauma is kept to a minimum, it is unlikely that the soil in
your backyard is amenable to growing native species of orchids (thus, the
comment that "unless you have them growing on your property already..."), as
many of these species are very sensitive to soil types.
      Many of these plants that are offered for sale have virtually no roots
on them, and perish without ever coming up. Many are removed from public lands
illegally, and those that are taken from private lands with permission are
indistinguishable from those that are not. As a result, the sales of these
plants assists, with very little variation, in the extinction of these species,
and the corruption of our public lands. Do not purchase native species of
orchids.
      It should also be noted that the techniques that are commonly employed
for propagation of tropical species of orchids by seed and by cloning are not
well-established for these species, and probably will not be without a major
economic motivational force, which is highly unlikely.

      3) The Plants

      Orchids are unusual in that they form intergenetic hybrids, most
of which are fertile (in contrast to infertile progeny, or genetic "mules").
There are literally hundreds of orchid genera, both naturally occuring,
and as artificial hybrids. Thus, when we take a Brassvola and cross it
onto or with a Cattleya, we produce the artificial genus Brassocattleya,
which is abbreviated Bc, as you can see below. With more complex hybrids,
they are commonly named after individuals in their honor, or after the
company that sponsored the work (See Potinara, below).
 
      Some helpful abbreviations and their parentage:
 
Bc. - Cattleya type (Brassocattleya = Brassovola X Cattleya)
Blc. - Cattleya type (Brassolaeliocattleya = Brassovola X Laelia X Cattleya)
Cat. or C. - Cattleya
Cym. - Cymbidium
Dend. - Dendrobium
Enc. - Encyclia
Epi. - Epidendrum
L. - Laelia
Milt. - Miltonia
Odont. - Odontoglossum
Onc. - Oncidium
Paph. - Paphiopedilum
Phal. - Phalaenopsis
Pot. - Potinara (Brassovola X Laelia X Cattleya X Sophronitis)
Sc. - Sophrocattleya (Sophronitis X Cattleya)
Slc. - Sophrolaeliocattleya (Sophronitis X Laelia X Cattleya)
 
 
      I have arranged these in no particular order.

      Genus Phalaenopsis: The Moth Orchid
      Probably one of the most commonly purchased orchid is the Phalaenopsis.
They are fairly easy to culture, easy to bloom, and very attractive and
appealing flowers as a whole. There are large numbers of hybrids, many of
which are well-suited to the novice. Species, although some are very
attractive, may have flowers that will be somewhat smaller than the novice
is looking for; hybrids are good to start with, or species, if one is certain
they will like the appearance.
      The Rules: Phalaenopsis are warm growers. Generally, the temperatures
should not drop below 60 degrees, and are best left with a minimum night
temperature of 65. In order to bloom, on the other hand, they should have
about two weeks of night temperatures into the mid-50's or so, and I have
personally taken healthy plants down into 50 degrees with no damage.
      Phalaenopsis enjoy bright light, on the order of up to 1000
foot-candles in the summer, and even more in the winter (to about 1500 or
even 2000 foot-candles).
      Phals will bloom whenever they feel like it, but generally do so in
spring. A spike will form at the base, and elongate quite rapidly. After
blooming, this spike may be removed, preferrably after it is dead and dried
(see Pathogens, below).
      Phals grow in a monopodial growth pattern; they grow on a continuously
lengthening upright stem, from which leaves sprout from in alternating
directions. It is this center, or the crown, of the plant that is most
susceptible to damage and rot; protect it by keeping moisture out of it, and
drying it with a bit of tissue when it gets in.
      The fact that they are monopodial also brings about an unusual
condition from time to time; the Phalaenopsis generally produces new roots
just below the level of the base of the plant; as the plant grows larger,
this point (where the roots emerge from) will extend further and further
up. As new roots appear at this point, they may start growing well above
the level of the media; under certain conditions of low humidity and high
salts buildup, these roots may stop growing (the green tips will die), and
the plant will start to dehydrate as old roots die off. This can be seen
from new roots with dead tips, or that simply are not growing. The solution
is simple: top-dressing. Unless the plant simply needs repotted, the base of
the plant, where the new roots are emerging, must be surrounded with more
media, preferably one that holds a great deal of water, such as dried sphagnum
moss. The new roots will recieve more water, and do better.
      This is one reason Phals should be seated a little deeper (depending
upon how much they have grown) into the media when repotted; make certain
that the crown is well above the level of the media to help keep it
dry, but also make certain that new roots will have access to plenty of
water.
      Vandas are kissing cousins to Phalaenopsis: their culture is not
advised for the complete orchid novice, and cultural information peculiar to
this genus is best taken by the buyer from the grower.
 
       Cattleyas
 
      This group includes the genera Cattleya, Brassvola, Laelia and
Epidendrum, as well as "odd-balls" like Sophronitis and Broughtonia, and
many other plants from other groups. Look for the words "Care as for Cattleya
types" or the like when using these cultural guidelines.
      Although the "traditional" corsage orchid has been largely replaced by
flowers from hybrid Cymbidiums, at one point in time hybrid Cattleyas were
virtually the only corsage orchid that one could purchase.

      Most Cattleyas are quite easy to culture; they are happy under fairly
broad conditions, in many different types of media, and it is not difficult to
find a plant that will do well in a windowsill or kitchen.
      The Rules: Cattleyas are intermediate growers. Ideal night
temperatures are between 55 and 60 degrees, although they can go lower without
significant danger in the dormant stages. In the growing season during the day,
temperatures are best around 72 to 78 degrees. The upper temperature limits
are around 85 to 100 degrees, the latter being tolerated only for short
periods of time, and out of direct sunlight.
      Cattleyas have a sympodial growth pattern, which means that the
pseudobulbs (literally: false bulbs), which support the leaves, grow from a
creeping stem or rhizome. The new leads are produced from the base of the
previous growth, and when mature, produce a sheath and flowers from the
center. This pattern may cause the plant to crane out of the pot, spilling
out over the side (see "Repotting", above). In this manner, most standard-
sized Cattleyas may grow one or two inches laterally per year. Flowering
generally occurs with mature plant when the new growth has finished growing,
and a thin green sheath sprouts from the center of the bulb; eventually, buds
may form in it, which then proceede to grow and break out.
      Hygiene on Cattleyas is particularly important; as the pseudobulbs
grow, they are sheathed in the smaller leaves that predecessed them. As the
growth matures, these leaves then die, leaving a brown or white papery layer
covering the pseudobulb. It is highly suggested that, after the leaves die,
and the layer becomes dry and papery, that it be removed, either through
peeling or carefully tugging it away (remember: only the dry dead stuff,
please!) This serves two purposes. The first one is that the dry papery
coating allows for a wonderful insect hatchery, and mealybugs wil commonly
infest this dry haven if allowed. The second is that orchids will also
photosynthesize through the green pseudobulbs if they are exposed, and this
will make them more efficient in producing "food".



      4) Propagation

      The propagation of orchids by seed was a largely hit-and-miss
proposition, entailing the dispersal of large quantities of orchid seed, and
hoping that some of the seed would find an appropriate environment and
germinate. Orchid seed is extremely tiny, on the order of millions per ounce.
Counts can be as high as 1-3 million in a single seed pod set on a mature
plant. Obviously, with such a large number of seed being produced, there is
virtually no nutrients that are carried with the seed itself.
      It was in 1922 when Dr. Lewis Knudson developed a technique for
germinating orchid seed on a large scale. His technique depended upon using
nutrient agar media, sterilizing the seed through the application of chemicals,
then sowing the seed on the nutrient media. Through the use of this technique,
the method for propagating orchids was revolutionized, and remains the primary
technique for propagating orchids today.
      This technique can be performed in the home setting, but is not
recommended for anyone who is not willing to put in a fair amount of time and
involvement. It is further suggested that, due to the number of orchid "mutts"
that exist, that the only seed that should be sown is that which is gathered
from reputable sources; if one is absolutely desirous that they must produce
their own seed for their own purposes, only species should be used, with the
pollen crossed back onto the same plant, or another specimen of the same
species. Orchid hybridization is a science that takes a great deal of time and
effort to learn, and few people have the patience to contend with the task.
      For example: in order to see the fruits of one's labor, from seed to
bloom, a Phalaenopsis may take upwards of 5 years. Cattleyas can take into 7
or 8 years, and Vandas have a generation time of approximately 15 years. This
is one of the reasons orchids are so expensive: a great deal of time and
effort goes into producing a single plant. Along with that goes the skill and
expertise of the hybridizer that "produced" the plant you just purchased. Even
with species, commonly only the best cultivars are chosen to produce seedlings
for sale to the public.
      One of the more popular sources for materials and information on
sowing orchid seed is:

      G & B Orchid Laboratory
      2426 Cherimoya Drive
      Vista, CA 92084
      619-727-2611

      The other technique for propagating orchids on a large scale is
meristem culture; from a single plant, literally thousands (or even more, if
desired) of GENETICALLY IDENTICAL plants can be produced from a single plant.
Thus, if you were to purchase a meristem of Cattleya Zebron Barr 'Trophic'
FCC/AOS, you would receive a plant that was genetically identical to the plant
that was awarded the FCC; obviously, hybrids will not produce such identical
progeny. This technique is not readily performed in the home environment, but
can be done with the addition of some equipment to that which would be found
in a small seed sowing (or flasking) set-up; the actual procedure is beyond
the scope of this FAQ.

      For the home grower, propagation of orchids is primarily performed
through division, or keikis.
      Orchids are divided when they become too cumbersome to satisfactorily
remain inside a pot of a given size. Generally speaking, the division should
have at least three back bulbs (old growths), preferably 4 or 5, and at least
one new (actively growing) growth. The division should be made with a new,
sterile razor blade: sterilizing is best performed by dipping in alcohol,
then passing it through a flame. Do not re-use this blade for cutting live
tissues on any other orchid plant, to keep down the spread of viruses. Take
the division, and pot it up as you would any other seedling.
      With Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums, the plants form clusters, and
when divided, there should be no fewer than 2 larger plants, and 3 or 4 smaller
plants in a clump. The larger the clump, the better; I personally do not divide
either of these two types of plants, as I prefer the appearance of a large
cluster of these terrestrial plants, grown into specimen plants.
      Phalaenopsis are somewhat recalcitrant to reproduce vegitatively;
occasionally, one will produce a plantlet that will grow quite rapidly on a
flowering spike, called a "keiki", which may be removed when adequate roots
and leaves have been produced to assure its survival. Again, this only happens
naturally on occasion; there are pastes available commercially that can be
applied to nodes on the flowering spike to induce this artificially.
      Sometimes, rather than propagating plants that are already in
collections, plants may be "imported" from the wild; some of these plants may
be harvested from trees that have been cut down during slash and burn
operations in the jungle, but many are not. Although "wild" plants may be very
tempting to own or buy for the advancing novice, the rules are very simple:
of the available orchid species, there are several variants, of which some are
highly desirable. It is hoped that, in the process of propagating these, a
hybridizer will use only the most appealing (in terms of flower size, ease of
flowering, growth habitat, disease resistant, etc.) members of that species
they have available. As such, if you go into a greenhouse, and look at two
plants of the same species, one wild-collected, and one grown in the lab,
there should be distinct differences: the lab-grown one will be healthier,
look better, and probably have better flowers than the wild one. This is,
quite simply, the goal of the breeder: to take a plant that exists not for the
appeal of the culturist, and select those traits that make it more appealing.
You will receive a better plant, in general, if you purchase one that has been
propagated in the lab. Further, you will be saving those plants that exist in
the wild from unscupulous collectors that decimate native populations.