Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 15:10:24 -0400
From: AusOrchids@aol.com
Subject: [8657] Re. Sarcochilus culture query

Dear Nina & Willis,

I currently have about 200 multiple growth Sarcochilus (species and
hybrids) in full bloom plus many, many other smaller ones in bloom. I guess
you could say that I have had a good degrees of success in their culture.

The genus Sarcochilus ( those native to Australia) contains 15 described
species that are found ranging from the far south (very cold climate) to
the far north (tropical climate).

In order to give any specific cultural instructions it would be necessary to
know the actual species or hybrid that you are trying to flower.

Most of the Sarcochilus offered for sale are either S. hartmannii or S.
fitzgeraldii. A primary hybrid between the two, S. Fitzhart is very likely
the easiest of all to grow and bloom.

Both species mentioned are lithophytes, very rarely epiphytes, that like
moist, but not wet feet; a cultural requirement common to most
nonpseudobulbous, rhizomeless momopodial :-) orchids.

Generally speaking, S. hartamnnii grows well for me under the same cultural
conditions as utilized for cattleya and S. fitzgeraldii does well under
conditions normally stipulated
for Phalaenopsis. S. Fitzhart will grow well under either set of conditions
and is usually easy to bloom and very floriferous.

An excellent source ( and only comprehensive tome that I know of) for
information pertaining to the description and culture of all of the
Australian member of the genus is "Sarcochilus orchid of Australia" by Walter
T. Upton, the Sarco. guru. If anyone is interested, I still have a few signed
copies of this book available.

Below is a copy of the cover page for the Sarcochilus section of my price
list. Hope tht it is of some help.
-------------------------------------------------------

Sarcochilus and their allied genera are extremely easy and rewarding plants
to grow, They are compact plants with a monopodial growth habit. They branch
freely from the base and grown rapidly into dense clumps. Each mature plant,
in the clump, will produce from 2 to 5 racemes with as many as 25 flowers per
raceme. A mature clump, in bloom, carries flowers that almost totally
obscures the foliage. A truly magnificent sight.

 As mentioned;  they are, for the most part, very easy to grow. Only a few of
the more exotic of the genera require any special cultural considerations
(they are noted on the list). The vast majority of these plants can be grown
under "Cattleya  or Phalaenopsis conditions" employing the same normal
cultural practices as for those genera.

 I have had my greatest success utilizing shallow clay containers and a
coarse grade of bark  with approximately 30% of added crockage consisting of
broken up old clay pots or Hydrolite. The size of the crockage closely
approximates the size of the bark. In the absence of crockage, I have
substituted a very coarse grade of perlite; not necessary when using the
Hydrolite

 The plants that are identified as being mounted are normally secured to a
 slab of Cork Oak bark with a small pad of spaghnum moss for moisture
retention. These plants do not respond well to pot culture.

 NOTE: Sarcochilus are, as mentioned previously, compact plants that grow to
an average maximum height of 6". The plants offered in this listing as
"blooming size" plants are usually single growth plants that are expected to
bloom in season (usually spring). Some may have previously bloomed; more than
once. There is no comparison that can be made between a blooming sized
Cattleya and a blooming size Sarcochilus. The average size of a blooming
sized Sarcochilus is approximately 3x3" and is, most often,extracted from a 2
1/4" pot or a 3" saucer that has been drilled for drainage. They are
continuous growers and require no rest period. They slow down considerably in
very warm weather - but they never stop. For your general information;
Sarcochilus have been know to flower in the flask. My personal best is 58
days out of flask.

 Multiple growth plants are usually available in many of the species and
hybrids; at increased cost. You may call our 800# 582-993 for availability
and price.

 I fertilize my Sarcochilus at every third watering with a very weak (1/8th
strength) solution of a 20-20-20 water soluble formula. I have found that
this gives me the best results. I have, in the past, fertilized weekly with
a 1/4 strength solution and monthly with a full strength solution with no
adverse effects. The weaker of the solutions and more frequent application
seemed to induce more new growths, more upright racemes and a more vigorous
root system.

 The mounted plants are misted daily in warm weather and soaked daily in
hot (90F+) weather. The potted plants are usually watered every two or
three days.  Species plants of Sarcochilus hartmannii and fitzgeraldii are
exceptions.  They should not be allowed to approach drying out.  They need
to be grown damp. Observation of the leaves of Sarcochilus will alert you
to under-watering practices. They shrivel !!! Sarcochilus ceciliae should
be kept on the dry side and give plenty of light. An absence of water
encourages the root growth that is necessary for the development of this
species.  Again; watch the leaves to ensure that the plant does not
excessively dehydrate.

 Proper pronunciation of this genera is given by Hawkes in his "Encyclopaedia
of Cultivated Orchids"  as follows:

 Sarcochilus (sar - kok - i - lus).  His spelling break down is obviously Sar
- coch - i -  lus.

 The pronunciation that he advocates makes more sense phonetically spelled
this way  (sar - coke - eee - loose).

 but (sar - ko - key - lus) or ( sar - ko - kai - lus )  never !!  -
according to Hawkes.

  However; "to each his own" ! When you call to order - say it the way you
want. It is to my advantage to understand!!

 The Australians have simplified the problem -  they call them Sarcs  and
everyone knows what they are talking about.

 Most American  growers usually refer to these plants as Sarcos.
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Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 02:20:46 -0400
From: Tuskes@aol.com
Subject: [8669] Sarcochilus Culture in So. Calif.

Regarding Sarcochilus.  Cultural techniques that produce great results
can be quite variable for the same species. We live close to the coast
in San Diego, about half way (north\south) between George Kenner and
Bruce Hubbard. Winter night lows are 40s-50s with 65-75 days.  Summer
nights are 63-65 with 72-78 days. Humidity is usually 30-45% RH
(day), but record 5-10% RH a number of times a year. We receive 3 to
12" of rain per year.  Coastal clouds which often fail to reach George
or Bruce keep our temperatures comfortable.

I had a difficult time blooming fitzgeraldii, hartmannii, and hillii in the
greenhouse.  Once they were moved outside, even small plants bloom. Most are
in plastic pots with a fine fir bark/charcoal/perlite mix. They are water
once a week with DI. Compared to George I under pot the plants. 

The hillii and olivaceus are mounted and misted infrequently during
the winter. Once they set their "spike" they are moved into the
greenhouse and misted once a day and kept under Cattleya condition.  I
think George keeps his olivaceus in the greenhouse (his look and bloom
better than mine).

The spathulatus, roseus, and ceciliae are mounted and kept in the
greenhouse, all of which are good bloomers. I know ceciliae lives on
rocks and many people grow them in shallow trays. But for our
conditions they do great mounted. The plants never look dry, are
strong bloomers, put out lots of pups, and have good long roots that
hang in the air. It has been easy to grow as an epiphyte.

I agree with Harry Tolen, I was over a George's last week taking
photos for an artical on this group... he has some outstanding species
and hybrids.

Paul Tuskes, San Diego, CA.
Tuskes@aol.com