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Section I-- ORCHID FAQ
THE ULTIMATE PLANT HOBBY
The family Orchidacea is comprised of
(approximately) 650 genera, with an estimated 25,000 to 35,000
species. They are found on every continent excepting Antarctica.
Estimates of the number of hybrids extends into the 200,000
mark. The bulk of the species that are brought into cultivation
are tropical and epiphytic, although many types are terrestrial
in nature, and there are orchids native to virtually every portion
of the globe.
Their epiphytic nature (meaning that they grow
primarily upon other plants) presented a great problem to early
would-be orchidphiles. Despite great protest from the
adventurers who brought them back, culturists insisted on
plunging them into barrels of sawdust that were in overheated
growing rooms nearly saturated with water; this assured killing
the plant in very short order, both by smothering the roots and
through rot.
Today, it is widely recognized that the epiphytic
species live attached to branches of immense tropical trees,
adhesed to the massive branches through tough roots. They are
bathed constantly in moving air, and in many areas, the primary
source of water is from morning dew, rather than rain. It is in
this environment, with bromeliads and tropical ferns, that these
plants thrive- subsisting on little nutrient content than what
is supplied by bird droppings, and by tiny bits of tree bark
trapped between their roots.
In the world of flowers, orchids are the undisputed
champions. Once the expensive interest of the wealthy, orchids
today are within reach of all. One of the oldest and best
organized of plant hobbies, orchid culture now enjoys worldwide
popularity. Their incredible beauty and diversity captivate men
and women of every walk of life.
If you haven't grown orchids, you are missing one of
nature's finest offerings.
YOU CAN GROW ORCHIDS
The Family of Orchids
by Aaron J. Hicks
With MANY thanks to:
Bruce Ide (American Orchid Society)
Rod Venger (Venger's Orchids)
Wayne Summer (At 6'4", he's a Dude of Gigantic Proportions)
No group of plants has been more deeply immersed in lore and fiction
than those of the orchids; black orchids and wild orchids, from Nero Wolfe to
Charles Darwin, no single group of flower can lay claim to the mystique that
orchids have, and still do.
Of some 650 recognized genera of orchids, only 100 or so are commonly
brought into cultivation; the neophyte will be introduced to a handful of this
amount, possibly a dozen or so at the most.
The single greatest fallacy of orchid culture is that they are
incredibly difficult to grow; to the contrary, the majority of the species
and hybrids that are commercially available are quite easy to raise, given
the proper set of conditions. It has been said before that if you can raise
African Violets, that you can raise orchids as well. As a matter of fact, the
entire family of orchids is remarkably adaptable to home conditions; I have
personally seen orchids raised in all environs, from steamy hothouses, to
collections intermixed with cacti and succulents. The best rule of thumb to
remember is that orchids are remarkably varied; given all the hybrids and
species on the market, one is likely to be able to find a number of plants
suitable to your own specific growing conditions.
And how does one best accomplish this? Most dealers are very supportive
of new growers, and can help by guiding you to plants that are more readily
cultured. Of course, any guidelines such as "Easy to grow" should be taken
from the same perspective as one would take for any other plant- the division
off of that Iris in your yard, for example, that grows like a weed died the
minute your neighbor put their hands on it.
With this in mind, there are three primary temperature groups that
orchids tend to fall into- cold, warm and intermediate growers. People in the
southwest will have difficulty growing cool-growing Miltonias, and people in
Minnesota will be distressed by their heating bills should they decide to
raise Phalaenopsis by the hundreds. Rough guidelines are given with the
culture section to follow.
This FAQ is not designed to turn someone who has had a single plant
with a tattered and faded label thrust into their care into a world-class
culturist; there is only one thing that can do that, and that is experience.
Experience with orchids comes primarily in one form: killing them. For every
experienced orchid grower comes a price other than that which is on the tag,
and that is killing orchids. Many are not particularly finicky plants, but it
may simply be your current horticultural conditions that caused that case of
black rot, or dehydrated the plant, or something else that caused an awful
fate to befall your once-robust specimen. So beware! the "expert" in orchids
who claims they never killed a plant- they are not telling the truth....
1) Technical background
The family Orchidacea is comprised of (approximately) 650 genera, with
an estimated 25,000 to 35,000 species. They are found on every continent
excepting Antarctica. Estimates of the number of hybrids extends into the
200,000 mark. The bulk of the species that are brought into cultivation are
tropical and epiphytic, although many types are terrestrial in nature, and
there are orchids native to virtually every portion of the globe.
Their epiphytic nature (meaning that they grow primarily upon other
plants) presented a great problem to early would-be orchidphiles. Despite
great protest from the adventurers who brought them back, culturists insisted
on plunging them into barrels of sawdust that were in overheated growing rooms
nearly saturated with water; this assured killing the plant in very short
order, both by smothering the roots and through rot.
Today, it is widely recognized that the epiphytic species live
attached to branches of immense tropical trees, adhesed to the massive
branches through tough roots. They are bathed constantly in moving air, and
in many areas, the primary source of water is from morning dew, rather than
rain. It is in this environment, with bromeliads and tropical ferns, that
these plants thrive- subsisting on little nutrient content than what is
supplied by bird droppings, and by tiny bits of tree bark trapped between
their roots.
2) Cultural
Rule number one: Orchids thrive on neglect. Do NOT fawn over them,
or they will quickly become compost. Yet, imitating their natural environs
is of no small importance, and how the heck do we make a rainforest
in, say, Trenton, New Jersey?
In culture, these conditions are simulated to the best of our ability
by providing the roots of a potted specimen with as much air as possible (for
the majority of cultured plants), by using highly porous media, and by keeping
the plants themselves in conditions similar to those they are naturally from,
by moderating their water sources, and preventing stagnant air (through use
of circulating fans and the like when possible).
Another technique for growing orchids is to "plaque" them, which
entails wiring a plant to a slab of cork, osmunda or other suitable growing
media, and then allowing the plant to grow onto it in the same manner as they
would do so in the wild; these plants do best under conditions that have
considerably higher humidity than that which is seen in most homes, as the
roots are not kept as moist for as long as they are in a pot. For most
greenhouses, they are very acceptable.
Water: water, as orchids receive it in nature, is generally nearly as
pure as distilled water. As such, it makes tap water look more like mineral
sludge. Oddly, even in areas with generally very hard water, this does not
provide much of a problem, unless these salts are not flushed from the pot
with copious quantities of water periodically. Of course, babying your plants
with either distilled or reverse osmosis (RO) water may help you prevent this.
Should heavy white crusts appear on the media you are culturing your
plants in, be certain to periodically flush the pot (i.e., whenever you water)
with copious quantities of water- at least until there is considerable water
coming out of the drain holes. Care, in this sense, is not that much different
than that of most other house plants: excess salts will dehydrate the roots,
through osmosis, and eventually damage or kill the plant. Fortunately, this
takes considerable time, and is generally quite reversible until serious
damage occurs.
The best rule for watering orchids: whenever they need it. Plants like
Cattleyas and Phalaenopsis require that the media dries out (perferably not
bone-dry) between waterings; this keeps the roots from rotting and, if you
are using an organic media, keeps the media from rotting. It also helps
discourage insects and other plant pests.
If in doubt as to whether or not to water: don't. Withholding water
will rarely kill these plants (exceptions: Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums,
whose roots need to be moist -not soaking- or they can be damaged. Also plaqued
plants, which should be misted regularly, especially when humidity is low, for
reasons already mentioned).
Watering should be performed as early in the day as possible, which
allows for water accidentally splashed on the leaves to evaporate, as this
may cause rot if allowed to remain for a period of time. Try not to spill
water into the crowns of sensitive plants, such as Phalaenopsis and
Paphiopedilums. If water DOES get in the crown of these "softer" plants,
simply blot it out with a bit of tissue paper. Water left standing
on a succulent Phalaenopsis leaf is an excellent spot for a fungal spore,
or bacterum, to gain a foothold, and cause rot in VERY short order.
Fertilizing: Keep in mind these are plants that normally live off of
decaying bark and bird droppings; the former is one of the reasons that I use
primarily organic mixes. As the mix breaks down, it supplies certain
concentrations of nutrients.
Supplimentation is best provided through the use of any water-soluble
fertilizer, although most orchid growers that have access to it, use Peter's
for Orchids, which is 30-10-10, and has extra iron added. On the other hand,
virtually any 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 will do; use half the recommended quantity,
and use it with less frequency than is recommended on the label. How often you
should apply it depends upon how actively the plant is growing, how often you
are watering it, and how big your pots are (and, therefore, how long it takes
for them to dry out). Some growers also use Superthrive, at either recommended,
or reduced, concentration.
Humidity: humidity for optimal growth of orchids is approximately 50%
to 80%, but this can be dropped if the plant has exceptional root systems, or
is of a type that does not respond negatively to low humidity (I have found a
number of Mexican species do well in low humidity, for example). Should
humidity rise much above 75%, it is suggested that air circulation should be
increased. Orchids do well in kitchens, over the sink, or in the bathroom.
Air circulation: as orchids normally live in the tops of trees, bathed
in air, they tend to do better, especially when they are in larger collections,
when the quantity of air circulation is maintained at a high rate. This may be
established by providing your growing area with an osciallating fan or two.
Most commercial greenhouses maintain a high rate of air circulation for their
plants; water that pools in and on plants will tend to evaporate more readily
in a light breeze than they normally would, which will help prevent rot and
decay of plants.
The media: Oh, BOY. Where do we start here...
Orchids may be potted in one of a variety of media, including redwood
or fir bark, tree fern fiber, charcoal, osmunda (the dried roots of the
Osmunda fern), coconut fiber, pumice, lava rock, sphagnum moss, singly or in
any combination of these compounds, and many, many more.
A bit of advice: until you learn what works best for YOU under YOUR
growing conditions, do not make radcial changes. The author personally knows
of one grower who, after going to a lecture on how WONDERFUL lava rock was for
HIS plants, thought it would be a good idea to rip up all of his plants, and
plunge them into lava rock. They all died, as lava rock was not good for his
conditions.
*IMPORTANT* Tree fern is a species listed with CITES, the Convention
on International Trade of Endangered Species. At this point in time, only
one country is exporting the endangered treefern for use in orchid potting
media, and this is very low-grade stuff, I am to understand. It has been
suggested recently that the use of treefern as an orchid media cease
immediately. Given the critical nature of the species involved, we will
have to stop using treefern either now or in the immediate future. The
shift seems to be towards inorganic or inert media such as lava rock, or
perlite and similar compounds. So... if we want to save the treefern, don't
buy it! [7/29/95]
Unless otherwise noted, fir bark seems to be best for most of the
epiphytic species of orchids that the novice will encounter. It is inexpensive,
easy to work with, and readily available. For Phalaenopsis, I personally perfer
a mix that holds water a bit better than bark, so I use a combination of
sphagnum moss, a bit of bark, a bit of cork, some perlite and charcoal. With
Cattleyas, most any mix will work. With Paphs and Phrags, although fir bark
has been used (with or without vermiculite), I prefer a mix that holds
considerably more water; one trick I have been introduced to is to use chunks
of foam rubber, about 1/4" cubes (as much as you can make a cube with foam
rubber and a pair of scissors), which seems to "breathe" well.
Do NOT go immediately into "exotic" mixes that people "swear by",
unless they have traditional components in them; again, they may work well for
someone else, but your growing conditions are most probably very different.
Popular sources for orchid growing mixes:
OFE International, Inc.
P.O. Box 164402
Miami, FL 33116 (305) 253-7080
Tropical Plant Products
P.O. Box 547754
Orlando, Fl. 32854-7754
Pots: as orchid roots like air, the more ventilation, the better. A
small handful of styrofoam chips, placed in the bottom of the pot, make for
better ventilation. With HUGE plants, inverting a smaller pot in the center of
the bottom of the larger pot when repoting greatly increases the quantity of
air that reaches the roots; as orchid root systems may be rather small in the
center of such large plants, this will not hurt them. It also makes the pot
considerably lighter, and keeps the center of the pot, media and roots, from
rotting.
When potting orchids, I generally use plastic, as the roots tend to
come off of it better when repotting next time, and is lighter than plastic.
It is also more readily broken without harming the plant, should the plant
grow into the pot to a degree where this becomes necessary.
How to repot orchids is an art more than a science; most of it depends
upon telling when a plant should be repotted. First rule: never repot a dormant
plant. Spring is the best time; Cattleya types should have new growths about
2-3" long, and roots starting to appear at the base of the growth. Phals
should not be in spike, and should be actively growing.
Generally, orchids only need to be repotted for two reasons: they are
coming out of the pot, or the media is rotting out from under them. If you
have a Cattleya or a Dendrobium where there are new growths "hanging" in
mid-air, outside of the pot, it is time to repot. If the media, when you
dig down a bit, is black and mushy, it is time to repot. Most of all, don't
be pot-happy: most orchids like a *tiny* bit of restriction, and many can
stay in pots for several years (4-5 years, up to 8), so long as the media
is not turning to mush, which will suffocate roots.
Pots should be sterilized first: clay by baking them, or plastic by
soaking them in 10% Chlorox for 1 hour or more, to kill bacterial and
viral contaminants. It has been suggested that, for Paphiopedilums and
Phragmipediums, which are terrestrials, that they *not* be sterilized, owing
to the fact that certain vital microrrhizial fungi are killed in this
process, which is not desriable. Wash well before potting, of course, just
like your hands. Take the plant to be repotted, and remove all the media
possible. Invert the pot, and remove the plant as best as possible
(yes, you probably will tear roots; do not touch open orchid wounds, to
prevent accidental viral infection). Remove all old media, and discard; do NOT
use this for potting another plant, as the old plant may be virused, and could
infect another plant. Place it in the cleaned pot, which should be sized
appropriately to allow for growth. With Cattleyas that have a "line" of
growth, give the plant plenty of room in the direction that the new growth is
heading; this is to say, you can even "push" it into the corner of the pot
opposite that of the new growth. Fill in with the media of your choice, and
tamp and settle it. Cumbersome plants may need staking or other support.
Should you require support, I suggest calling a friend. :-)
Additional cultural information can be had from:
The American Orchid Society
6000 South Olive Avenue
West Palm Beach, FL 33405
They produce the American Orchid Society Bulletin, which is published
monthly, lavishly illustrated with color photographs of orchids, and dedicates
a good portion of their periodical to advertisements, which will allow you to
expand your collection. Caution: orchids are habit forming!
The AOS Bulletin is NOT a rinky-dink publication!
The AOS is also the governing body behind judging the quality of
plants. The primary scheme goes something like this:
FCC/AOS: First Class Certificate, American Orchid Society. This is the
highest award an orchid can receive under the AOS. Precious few are awarded
each year.
AM/AOS: Award of Merit, AOS. This is the second-highest award granted
by the AOS. Several are granted each year.
HCC/AOS: Horticultural Certificate of Commendation, AOS. Third-highest
award under the system of judging.
Although an FCC will most likely be quite expensive for a period of
time after it is awarded, eventually such popularity wanes, and plants can be
had for considerably less after this period. Replacing AOS with RHS means the
award was granted by the prestigous Royal Horticultural Society, which has some
different awards, but are no less scrupulous in their granting of awards.
A list of types of awards,as granted by the American Orchid
Society (from The Handbook on Orchid Nomenclature and Registration):
AD Award of Distinction
AGM Award of Garden Merit
AM Award of Merit
AQ Award of Quality
BA Bronze Award
BC Botanical Certificate
BM Bronze Medal
BMC Bronze Medal Certificate
BRC Bronze Certificate
CBM Certificate of Botanical Merit
CBR Certificate of Botanical Recognition
CC Certificate of Cultural Commendation
CCM Certificate of Cultural Merit
CHM Certificate of Horticultural Merit
CPC Certificate of Preliminary Commendation
FCC First Class Certificate
FCD First Class Diploma
GC Gold Certificate
GM Gold Medal
GMC Gold Medal Certificate
HCC Highly Commended Certificate
JC Judges Commendation
PC Preliminary Commendation
RHC Rare Hybrid Certificate
SC Silver Certificate
SM Silver Medal
SMC Silver Medal Certificate
SMM Silver Medal of Merit
A partial list of the RHS awards:
RHS Awards
FCC= First Class Certificate
AM= Award of Merit
CCC= Certificate of Cultural Commendation
PC= Certificate of Preliminary Commendation
It is highly recommended that the reader subscribe to the AOS Bulletin;
it is a first-class journal, bursting with articles on technique, on culture,
and on the latest in orchid science and politics.
There are several "subfamilies" of orchids, and, with notable
exceptions, the rules are fairly similar.
First, a word on native species of orchids by Carson Whitlow,
founder of Cyp. Haven, a company dedicated to the conservation of
native American orchids:
Native species of orchids are beautiful. It has been asked
many times, where they can be purchased, how they transplant, the
best ways to cultivate them and so forth.
The basic rule is this: unless you are willing to take the
time to learn as much as you can about them BEFORE you try to grow
them, AND are willing to put a lot of work into keeping them alive,
it is best to grow something else.
Our native orchid species are very specific in their needs,
growing only in certain specific locations within an area, and many
can not be grown outside their normal area of distribution without
major efforts. Even if successfully established, and producing
seed, they will probably not reproduce because the special
mycorrhyza necessary for germination is not present in the soil.
Until only recently, all native orchids for sale were wild
collected, with the collectors often knowing little about taking
care of the plants, and for dealers they were just another plant to
sell. Success with plants from these sources was often limited, at
best. However, the real concern is the source of this material.
care of the plants, and for dealers they were just another plant to
sell. Success with plants from these sources was often limited, at
best. However, the real concern is the source of this material.
Unscrupulous collectors will not only remove them from private land
without permission but also from protected public lands and
wildlife areas. These are indistinguishable from those legally
collected. Therefore, if you must purchase wild collected
material, know that your dealers reputation is unquestioned.
Fortunately, some of the native species are being grown from
seed and are available from dealers specializing in them. Some
have been found to be adaptable to easy culture, such as the
Calopogons, and are available from several sources. However, only
a few of the species have been successfully propagated in this
manner and cloning techniques commonly employed for propagation of
tropical species of orchids have not been successfully developed.
With continuing interest in our native orchid species, more
research is being undertaken with them for both conservation and
commercial applications.
-Carson E. Whitlow, for the Orchid Culture Sheets
7/29/95
http://www.netins.net/showcase/novacon/cyphaven/
3) The Plants
Orchids are unusual in that they form intergenetic hybrids, most
of which are fertile (in contrast to infertile progeny, or genetic "mules").
There are literally hundreds of orchid genera, both naturally occuring,
and as artificial hybrids. Thus, when we take a Brassvola and cross it
onto or with a Cattleya, we produce the artificial genus Brassocattleya,
which is abbreviated Bc, as you can see below. With more complex hybrids,
they are commonly named after individuals in their honor, or after the
company that sponsored the work (See Potinara, below).
Some helpful abbreviations and their parentage:
Bc. - Cattleya type (Brassocattleya = Brassovola X Cattleya)
Blc. - Cattleya type (Brassolaeliocattleya = Brassovola X Laelia X Cattleya)
Cat. or C. - Cattleya
Cym. - Cymbidium
Dend. - Dendrobium
Enc. - Encyclia
Epi. - Epidendrum
L. - Laelia
Milt. - Miltonia
Odont. - Odontoglossum
Onc. - Oncidium
Paph. - Paphiopedilum
Phal. - Phalaenopsis
Pot. - Potinara (Brassovola X Laelia X Cattleya X Sophronitis)
Sc. - Sophrocattleya (Sophronitis X Cattleya)
Slc. - Sophrolaeliocattleya (Sophronitis X Laelia X Cattleya)
A more complete compilation can be found at:
ftp.nmt.edu/pub/orchids, filename: orchidgenera1.1
I have arranged these in no particular order.
Genus Phalaenopsis: The Moth Orchid
Probably one of the most commonly purchased orchid is the Phalaenopsis.
They are fairly easy to culture, easy to bloom, and very attractive and
appealing flowers as a whole. There are large numbers of hybrids, many of
which are well-suited to the novice. Species, although some are very
attractive, may have flowers that will be somewhat smaller than the novice
is looking for; hybrids are good to start with, or species, if one is certain
they will like the appearance.
The Rules: Phalaenopsis are warm growers. Generally, the temperatures
should not drop below 60 degrees, and are best left with a minimum night
temperature of 65. In order to bloom, on the other hand, they should have
about two weeks of night temperatures into the mid-50's or so, and I have
personally taken healthy plants down into 50 degrees with no damage.
Phalaenopsis enjoy bright light, on the order of up to 1000
foot-candles in the summer, and even more in the winter (to about 1500 or
even 2000 foot-candles).
Phals will bloom whenever they feel like it, but generally do so in
spring. A spike will form at the base, and elongate quite rapidly. After
blooming, this spike may be removed, preferrably after it is dead and dried
(see Pathogens, below).
Phals grow in a monopodial growth pattern; they grow on a continuously
lengthening upright stem, from which leaves sprout from in alternating
directions. It is this center, or the crown, of the plant that is most
susceptible to damage and rot; protect it by keeping moisture out of it, and
drying it with a bit of tissue when it gets in.
The fact that they are monopodial also brings about an unusual
condition from time to time; the Phalaenopsis generally produces new roots
just below the level of the crown of the plant; as the plant grows larger,
this point (where the roots emerge from) will extend further and further
up. As new roots appear at this point, they may start growing well above
the level of the media; under certain conditions of low humidity and high
salts buildup, these roots may stop growing (the green tips will die), and
the plant will start to dehydrate as old roots die off. This can be seen
from new roots with dead tips, or that simply are not growing. The solution
is simple: top-dressing. Unless the plant simply needs repotted, the base of
the plant, where the new roots are emerging, must be surrounded with more
media, preferably one that holds a great deal of water, such as dried sphagnum
moss. The new roots will recieve more water, and do better. In this manner,
you can delay repotting without harming the plant; remember the cardinal
rule of when to repot orchids: don't, unless they need it, which requires
either having grossly outgrown their previous "home", or the media is
rotting out from under them.
This is one reason Phals should be seated a little deeper (depending
upon how much they have grown) into the media when repotted; make certain
that the crown is well above the level of the media to help keep it
dry, but also make certain that new roots will have access to plenty of
water. The growing tips should be moistened each time the plant is
watered, which will assure healthy, rapid root growth.
Vandas are kissing cousins to Phalaenopsis: they grow much larger,
in general, and are best grown in areas that receive considerably more
light and warmth than is readily available outside of Florida, Texas,
and similar environs. Some success has been reported under lights, and
I know of a number of growers who grow and flower them well above the
Mason-Dixon line (Northern United States). For culture, here is a
section brought to you by Wayne Summer.
The Vanda Family
The Vanda Alliance is made up mostly of warmth- and sun-loving
orchids with very colorful flowers. There are 30 to 40 cultivated
vanda species, with about another 30 that are not seen in most
collections, and many related species in the Vanda Alliance
(Ascocentrum, Aeridies, Rhynchostylis, ect.). Most vanda species
originate from tropical Asia, but some, i.e. V. coeruela, originate
in more temperate climates and require cool conditions part of the year
to thrive and bloom. Most vandas are easily grown in warm climates,
where plants can be grown outside in light shade most of the year. In
climates where winters are cold, they are often summered outside, and
grown inside during the winter in a sunny window, or year-round in a
greenhouse.
LIGHT is a crucial factor in blooming most vandas. There are
three types of vandas: terete, semiterete and strap-leaf. The
terete types have round, pencil-shaped leaves, while strap-leaf
types have broader, flat leaves. Semi-teretes are hybrids between
the two, with an intermediate shape. Terete types need full sun,
and are best grown in high light climates. These plants will
not flower until they are over three feet tall. In warm, bright
climates, you can grow any type of vanda outside with partial shade
for strap-leaf and semi-terete types or inside (when cold) in a bright,
south window. Where winters are dull, strap-leaf types are recommended;
grow them outside in summer and in full sun inside during the winter.
Use about 25% to 35% shade for greenhouses and less during dull winters.
Note: leaves should be a medium green, not dark green.
TEMPERATURES for most vandas should be warm; a minimum winter
night temperature of 55 degrees F is recommended. Colder spells
are tolerated for a short time if it is not windy. Optimum
temperatures are 60 degrees F at night, and 95 degrees F during
the day. Bright light, and the resulting warmer temperatures, mean
faster growth, which must be balanced with higher humidity, air
movement, and increased water and fertilizer.
WATER: Vandas are monopodial and have no water storage capacity;
therefore, they generally like lots of water when growing, but must
dry quickly. Because of this, and their extensive root system, they
are mostly grown in slatted wood baskets, or in pots with a coarse
potting medium. If warm and sunny, they may need daily watering, with
misting several times a day in dry or hot climates. Water spraingly
in the winter or during cloudy weather, but do not allow plants to shrivel.
HUMIDITY of 80% is ideal. In tropical climates this may be easy
to obtain. Misting will be necessary during warm, sunny weather.
This is easiest to provide in a greenhouse. Outside, watering daily
may suffice. In the home, place the plants on trays of gravel,
partially filled with water. Do not mist the plants if the leaves
will not dry by nightfall. Air movement MUST be strong.
FERTILIZING. Vandas are typically heavy feeders. A well-balanced
(20-20-20) fertilizer should be applied full strength once a week
during warm weather (or 1/4 strength every watering). During cool
or cloudy weather, fertilize once every two to four weeks. Use a
high-phosphorus fertilizer every third application to promote
blooming.
POTTING should be done in the spring. Plants in baskets do not
need to be repotted unless the potting medium has broken down or
the plant has outgrown the basket. Soak the plant and basket in
water to make the aerial roots more pliable. Then set the plant
and old basket into a larger one. For plants in pots, repot in a
slightly larger pot, positioning the plant in the center. Use a
coarse medium, whether fir bark, treefern, charcoal, etc., and work
it around the roots. Keep shaded, humid, but drier at the roots
until new root tips form.
Wayne Summer, Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Cattleyas
This group includes the genera Cattleya, Brassvola, Laelia and
Epidendrum, as well as "odd-balls" like Sophronitis and Broughtonia, and
many other plants from other groups. Look for the words "Care as for Cattleya
types" or the like when using these cultural guidelines.
Although the "traditional" corsage orchid has been largely replaced by
flowers from hybrid Cymbidiums, at one point in time hybrid Cattleyas were
virtually the only corsage orchid that one could purchase.
Most Cattleyas are quite easy to culture; they are happy under fairly
broad conditions, in many different types of media, and it is not difficult to
find a plant that will do well in a windowsill or kitchen.
The Rules: Cattleyas are intermediate growers. Ideal night
temperatures are between 55 and 60 degrees, although they can go lower without
significant danger in the dormant stages. In the growing season during the day,
temperatures are best around 72 to 78 degrees. The upper temperature limits
are around 85 to 100 degrees, the latter being tolerated only for short
periods of time, and out of direct sunlight.
Cattleyas have a sympodial growth pattern, which means that the
pseudobulbs (literally: false bulbs), which support the leaves, grow from a
creeping stem or rhizome. The new leads are produced from the base of the
previous growth, and when mature, produce a sheath and flowers from the
center. This pattern may cause the plant to crane out of the pot, spilling
out over the side (see "Repotting", above). In this manner, most standard-
sized Cattleyas may grow one or two inches laterally per year. Flowering
generally occurs with mature plant when the new growth has finished growing,
and a thin green sheath sprouts from the center of the bulb; eventually, buds
may form in it, which then proceede to grow and break out.
Hygiene on Cattleyas is particularly important; as the pseudobulbs
grow, they are sheathed in the smaller leaves that predecessed them. As the
growth matures, these leaves then die, leaving a brown or white papery layer
covering the pseudobulb. It is highly suggested that, after the leaves die,
and the layer becomes dry and papery, that it be removed, either through
peeling or carefully tugging it away (remember: only the dry dead stuff,
please!) This serves two purposes. The first one is that the dry papery
coating allows for a wonderful insect hatchery, and mealybugs wil commonly
infest this dry haven if allowed. The second is that orchids will also
photosynthesize through the green pseudobulbs if they are exposed, and this
will make them more efficient in producing "food".
4) Propagation
The propagation of orchids by seed was a largely hit-and-miss
proposition, entailing the dispersal of large quantities of orchid seed, and
hoping that some of the seed would find an appropriate environment and
germinate. Orchid seed is extremely tiny, on the order of millions per ounce.
Counts can be as high as 1-3 million in a single seed pod set on a mature
plant. Obviously, with such a large number of seed being produced, there is
virtually no nutrients that are carried with the seed itself.
It was in 1922 when Dr. Lewis Knudson developed a technique for
germinating orchid seed on a large scale. His technique depended upon using
nutrient agar media, sterilizing the seed through the application of chemicals,
then sowing the seed on the nutrient media. Through the use of this technique,
the method for propagating orchids was revolutionized, and remains the primary
technique for propagating orchids today.
This technique can be performed in the home setting, but is not
recommended for anyone who is not willing to put in a fair amount of time and
involvement. It is further suggested that, due to the number of orchid "mutts"
that exist, that the only seed that should be sown is that which is gathered
from reputable sources; if one is absolutely desirous that they must produce
their own seed for their own purposes, only species should be used, with the
pollen crossed back onto the same plant, or another specimen of the same
species. Orchid hybridization is a science that takes a great deal of time and
effort to learn, and few people have the patience to contend with the task.
For example: in order to see the fruits of one's labor, from seed to
bloom, a Phalaenopsis may take upwards of 5 years. Cattleyas can take into 7
or 8 years, and Vandas have a generation time of approximately 15 years. This
is one of the reasons orchids are so expensive: a great deal of time and
effort goes into producing a single plant. Along with that goes the skill and
expertise of the hybridizer that "produced" the plant you just purchased. Even
with species, commonly only the best cultivars are chosen to produce seedlings
for sale to the public.
One of the more popular sources for materials and information on
sowing orchid seed is:
G & B Orchid Laboratory
2426 Cherimoya Drive
Vista, CA 92084
619-727-2611
The other technique for propagating orchids on a large scale is
meristem culture; from a single plant, literally thousands (or even more, if
desired) of GENETICALLY IDENTICAL plants can be produced from a single plant.
Thus, if you were to purchase a meristem of Cattleya Zebron Barr 'Trophic'
FCC/AOS, you would receive a plant that was genetically identical to the plant
that was awarded the FCC; obviously, hybrids will not produce such identical
progeny. This technique is not readily performed in the home environment, but
can be done with the addition of some equipment to that which would be found
in a small seed sowing (or flasking) set-up; the actual procedure is beyond
the scope of this FAQ.
For the home grower, propagation of orchids is primarily performed
through division, or keikis.
Orchids are divided when they become too cumbersome to satisfactorily
remain inside a pot of a given size. Generally speaking, the division should
have at least three back bulbs (old growths), preferably 4 or 5, and at least
one new (actively growing) growth. The division should be made with a new,
sterile razor blade: sterilizing is best performed by dipping in alcohol,
then passing it through a flame. Do not re-use this blade for cutting live
tissues on any other orchid plant, to keep down the spread of viruses. Take
the division, and pot it up as you would any other seedling.
With Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums, the plants form clusters, and
when divided, there should be no fewer than 2 larger plants, and 3 or 4 smaller
plants in a clump. The larger the clump, the better; I personally do not divide
either of these two types of plants, as I prefer the appearance of a large
cluster of these terrestrial plants, grown into specimen plants.
Phalaenopsis are somewhat recalcitrant to reproduce vegitatively;
occasionally, one will produce a plantlet that will grow quite rapidly on a
flowering spike, called a "keiki", which may be removed when adequate roots
and leaves have been produced to assure its survival. Again, this only happens
naturally on occasion; there are pastes available commercially that can be
applied to nodes on the flowering spike to induce this artificially.
Sometimes, rather than propagating plants that are already in
collections, plants may be "imported" from the wild; some of these plants may
be harvested from trees that have been cut down during slash and burn
operations in the jungle, but many are not. Although "wild" plants may be very
tempting to own or buy for the advancing novice, the rules are very simple:
of the available orchid species, there are several variants, of which some are
highly desirable. It is hoped that, in the process of propagating these, a
hybridizer will use only the most appealing (in terms of flower size, ease of
flowering, growth habitat, disease resistant, etc.) members of that species
they have available. As such, if you go into a greenhouse, and look at two
plants of the same species, one wild-collected, and one grown in the lab,
there should be distinct differences: the lab-grown one will be healthier,
look better, and probably have better flowers than the wild one. This is,
quite simply, the goal of the breeder: to take a plant that exists for the
appeal of the culturist, and select those traits that make it more appealing.
You will receive a better plant, in general, if you purchase one that has been
propagated in the lab. Further, you will be saving those plants that exist in
the wild from unscupulous collectors that decimate native populations.
Importing Orchids
with many thanks to: Fredrick W. Paget
Subject: Import Regulations
The importation of plants including orchids into the USA is regulated by
the United States Department of Agriculture, Animal and Plant Health
Inspection Service (APHIS) Plant Protection and Quarantine.
I know of two types of permits. There is the permit for amateurs and
hobbyists (free) and the General Permit for business purposes that costs $70
for two years. To get a permit write to APHIS at:
US Dept. Of Agriculture
APHIS-PPQ-Permit Unit
Federal Center Building, RM. 632
Hyattsville, Maryland 20782
Describe what you want to import- be rather general and include seeds and
any other plants besides orchids you might be interested in such as
bromeliads, or whatever. Ask for a permit (or an application blank if you
want the commercial permit). For the amateur permit they will mail you, in
due course, a large envelop of laws and regulations as well as some green
and yellow stickers with your permit number on them. Since these stickers
have a port of entry printed on them tell them what port or ports you plan
on using. These stickers are to be mailed by you to the foreign source or
taken with you if you travel abroad. They are pasted on the outside of
packages sent to you so that the packages go directly to the inspection
station.
If you are abroad it is a good idea to mail the plants from there to your
home using one of the stickers. If one attempts to hand carry through
inspection I have noticed that they will sometimes inspect a very limited
number of plants - less than 20 - at the APHIS facility at the customs
entry, however they will require large packages to be delivered to the
inspection station which always seems to be located at some distance from
the customs area and the delivery must be made by a customs bonded carrier
who must be hired by you and all arrangements made by you. Inspection takes
place only during working hours and usually takes at least 12 to 24 hours
from entry. So there you are stuck in the Port of Entry city for a day when
you want to get home. The paperwork is complicated and you may get by once
on charm, but generally you must hire a custom broker- a firm that
specializes in doing all this entry dog work. They will charge you from
$75-and up, to take care of everything including hiring the bonded messenger
making out the papers and delivery to your house or place of business if
you want it. You should get a custom broker of your choice some time ahead
as you must establish credit with them and start an account.
Packages that arrive by foreign mail with the stickers on them go
directly to the APHIS inspection station where they are inspected and then
they are mailed to you by APHIS without all the paper work and fuss
described above. This makes importation by mail very easy- you just send
the supplier the sticker and they mail it with the sticker on the box
instead of an address and it comes right through, you hope. If you have a
commercial license you can just have the sender put your General Permit
number on the box,
Now one more thing that I have not mentioned yet. All orchids are listed
in the CITES, which is the treaty on endangered plants and animals and some
genera are considered so endangered that no importation is allowed (paphs,
phrags, some cattleyas etc.) unless you have an impossible to get permit.
The rest of the orchids (and this is 99 percent of them) are listed as
requiring a CITES document from the source country and this document has to
be with the orchids when they arrive in the US or the plants will be seized
and you are informed that you have 21 days to get the necessary papers. (You
may also opt to return the plants to the country of origin at your expense.)
Meanwhile the plants sit on a shelf at APHIS and if there is a specially
dedicated worker there they may get a little care. At the end of the 21 day
period that is the end as far as you are concerned. The plants, live or
dead, are sent to a University Botanical Department or such like where they
may be used in student instruction or research, etc.
Some other plants require CITES too (cactus, pitcher plants, etc.), they are
listed in the documents you get with your permit. There are a lot of plants
that are forbidden since they carry disease or are weeds, etc.
To export orchids yourself such as hybrid orchids or seed raised species or
divisions of legally imported orchids you need the commercial license and
also a permit issued by:
US Department of Interior
Fish and Wildlife Service
4401 N. Fairfax Drive, Rm. 432
Arlington, VA 22203
Ask for information and application forms for CAPP and tell them you want
to export orchids raised by yourself or others in the US. This can take
up to 6 months to get and costs something too- It was about $75 several years
ago. You may have to supply a complete inventory of all the orchids you have
and photos of your greenhouse as well as fill out a few forms and wait. Then
for four years you can issue a CITES for your own propagations. You must take
the papers and plants to the nearest APHIS inspection station for approval
and inspection. After payment of fee (about $15) and securing of a
Phytosanitary certificate from the same APHIS (another fee) you are legally
able to export those orchids. Send the papers with the plants.
If you collect plants abroad and know the right people there so that you
can get the CITES be sure to clean the plants thoroughly and minutely. Cut
off all rust, fungus, and insect damage. Wash the plants, dry them and go
over them with a toothbrush to remove EVERY bit of dirt. Cut the roots short.
Pack them dry for most genera, except some of the delicate ones. For them a
supply of damp sterile medium should be obtained. Rockwool or sphagnum moss
are OK Wrap each plant separately after tying a tag to it with the name if
known or best guess if not known. Do not put a lot of insecticide on them
and stick them in the box as when APHIS opens the box and sees or smells the
insecticide they will refuse to inspect them and they will go into the
vacuum tank for a dose of methyl bromide applied by evacuating the tank and
admitting the gas. End of orchids. You may use a mild insecticide during the
wash such as Orthene* and get away with it. If Aphis sees a live bug the
whole box may go into the tank or if they are feeling lenient they may just
dip the lot in something.
If you try to smuggle orchids in to the United States you are on your
own. There is one individual who was caught with a suitcase full of paphs
who may get ten years according to the story in the papers.
Importing orchids is a lot of fun and there are some real bargains to be
had . The days of wild collected plants are coming to a close as habitats
disappear, but foreign growers are taking up the slack by growing from seed
and with their ideal conditions in their orchid ranges close to the former
native habitat they can grow plants to take the place of the wild collected
plants.
Permission granted to reproduce in the Orchid FAQ.
Fredrick W. Paget ---Mill Valley, CA ---USA --
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Information about flasking orchids can be found at:
ftp.nmt.edu/pub/orchids
filenames "flasking" and "seedsowing"
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Info about colchicine treatment of orchid protocorms can be
found at:
ftp.nmt.edu/pub/orchids
filename "Colchicine1.2"
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Orchid myths demystified!
ORCHIDS ARE CHALLENGING
Because there are so many of them, there is always
more to learn about orchids. New discoveries are made every day,
giving the world of orchids an ever-widening horizon. It is an
interest that provides as much of a challenge as you like.
ARE ORCHIDS HARD TO GROW?
No. They are no harder to grow in Central Ontario
than many flowering plants popular here. Like any plant, an
orchid needs water, food, light, and air. If you can grow other
garden and house plants, you can grow orchids. All it takes is a
little understanding and care.
AREN'T ORCHIDS PARASITES?
Absolutely not! Of the 35,000 species of orchids
that grow around the world, not one is parasitic. In nature,
many orchids cling to trees and bushes as a growth habit; but
they take nothing from the host plant and do not injure it in
any way.
DO YOU NEED A GREENHOUSE?
Not necessarily. Some popular orchids can be grown
in your home in a window or under lights. Some may be grown
outside, and are able to withstand a light frost. In selecting
plants, choose those that will survive in the environment you
have to offer. On the other hand, most orchid growers eventually
get a greenhouse, because its controlled environment enables
them to grow additional species that would not be happy inside a
residence.
AREN'T ALL ORCHIDS THE SAME?
To the contrary. No plant family is more diverse.
After all, the orchid family is the largest plant family in
nature. From the thimble-sized Mystacidium caffrumto the
20-foot-tall Renanthera storiei, orchids take amazingly
different shapes, forms, and growth habits. Some orchids produce
blossoms no larger than a mosquito; some orchid flowers are as
large as a dinner plate; some produce single flowers. Your
familiar corsage orchid is just one of thousands of attractive
types that can be grown in this area, given the proper
environment.
DO ORCHIDS COME FROM THE JUNGLES?
Some do. But every country in the world, and every
province in Canada, has its orchid species, including the
Arctic. Ontario, for example, has more than 60 species of native
orchids.
DO ORCHIDS SMELL GOOD?
Some are so powerfully scented as to perfume your
whole neighborhood. Others have no scent, but rely on shape and
color to attract insects or birds for pollination.
HOW LONG DO BLOOMS LAST?
It depends on the type, plus factors of culture and
care. Blooms of hybrids of the Cattleya family may last from one
to four weeks on the plant. Those of the Phalaenopsis family
commonly last from one to four months.
WHAT SORT OF SOIL DO THEY NEED?
Most require none. In nature, orchids can be divided
into four types according to growing conditions. Most are
classified as epiphytes, or air plants, which grow on trees. The
rock growers, or lithophytes, cling to the surfaces of rocks.
Saprophytes are those that grow in mulch, often on the forest
floor. Finally, there are the dirt growers, or terrestrials,
which anchor themselves in soil or sand. As most orchids are
epiphytes, they can be grown in tree bark, crumbled charcoal,
pebbles, or on wooden or cork plaques.
AREN'T ORCHIDS TERRIBLY EXPENSIVE?
Not any more. Once a rich man's hobby, orchids are
now within the reach of any income. Modern reproductive methods
make it possible for growers to enjoy the finest plants for a
few dollars. You can spend as much or as little as you like on
your hobby. But you should know that trying to own just one
orchid is like trying to eat just one peanut.
SHOULD THEY BE PROTECTED FROM DRAFTS?
By no means. As a matter of fact, orchids require
moving air. They do best where there is a steady breeze. After
all, in nature, orchids are subject to all kinds of weather.
MUST ORCHIDS BE KEPT HOT?
Like most plants, orchids prefer a middle range of
temperatures, neither too hot nor too cold. Some warm-growing
species can take hot weather; some cool-growers are not harmed
by subfreezing temperatures. It depends on the plant. Generally,
however, the climate in Central Ontario favors the intermediate
species. Orchids from more severe climates that are accustomed
to cool or warm temperatures year-round do not do as well.
ARE ORCHIDS SHORT LIVED?
Most are very long-lived. In fact, some species are
virtually immortal, given the proper attention. Divisions or
propagations of orchids discovered in the 19th century are still
growing and blooming today... a botanical heritage from an
earlier century.
HOW OFTEN DO ORCHIDS BLOOM?
Again, it depends on the plant. Some bloom once a
year; others bloom several times a year; some bloom
continuously.
WHEN DO ORCHIDS BLOOM?
The most popular types bloom in winter and spring,
but orchids may be found that bloom in any month of the year.
CAN YOU TRANSPORT ORCHIDS?
Yes. That's one of their greatest assets. Orchids
are portable. Because they grow in pots or baskets, they can be
carried anywhere. Many growers use blooming plants as living
centerpieces in their homes. Orchids are routinely mailed and
shipped across country and around the world.
WHERE CAN I LEARN MORE ABOUT ORCHIDS?
There are many excellent books available to help a
novice grower learn more. Most bookstores and public libraries
have them. Also, some commercial orchid growers offer a
selection of books for sale.
Perhaps the most useful step you can take is to find
an experienced grower and make friends. But your best bet is to
join an orchid society. Here is the address of a national
orchid society:
The American Orchid Society
6000 South Olive Avenue
West Palm Beach, FL 33405
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