THE
SWORD EXERCISE,
ARRANGED FOR
MILITARY INSTRUCTION,
BY
BREVET MAJOR HENRY C. WAYNE,
U. S. ARMY.
______________________________________________________________________________________________
PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE WAR DEPARTMENT
______________________________________________________________________________________________
WASHINGTON:
PRINTED BY GIDEON AND 00
1850.
________________________________________________
Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1850,
BY HENRY C. WAYNE,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District of Columbia,
_________________________________________________
WASHINGTON, APRIL 17, 1849.
Bt. Major General R. Jones,
Adjutant General.
SIR: I have the honor to submit to your examination “A system of Exercise on foot for the Small-Sword, Broad-Sword, Sabre, Cut and Thrust, and Stick,” as arranged and taught by me at the U. S.. Military Academy when Director of the Sword Exercise at that Institution.
It is submitted at the request of some of my brother officers, to supply a deficiency in our military instruction, and as a healthy and manly amusement, improving both the morale and physique of the soldier.
It is arranged from several works upon the subject, and in conformity with the principles of the Cavalry and Infantry Tactics in use by our Army, which it is designed to assist.
I am, General, very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
HENRY C. WAYNE,
Bvt. Major U. S. Army.
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Instruction in the use and exercise of the Sword is deemed to be highly important and beneficial to the service. Such a system as the one prepared by Major WAYNE is much needed in our Army, and will be duly appreciated by the commissioned officer and private soldier. I respectfully recommend it for favorable consideration.
R. JONES, Adjt. General.
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HEAD-QUARTERS OF THE ARMY,
West Point, N. Y., August 30, 1849.
Hon. G. W. CRAWFORD,
Secretary of War.
SIR: The system of exercise on foot for, the Small-Sword, Broad-Sword, Sabre, &c., as arranged by Brevet Major H. C. WAYNE, Captain and Assistant Quartermaster, which was referred to me from the War Department for consideration, has been submitted, informally, to the inspection of such officers at the Military Academy as were supposed
4
to be most conversant with the subject. From their reports, as from what I have myself seen of it, when taught by Major Wayne to the Cadets at the time he was Director of the Sword Exercise at this place, I approve highly of the system, and recommend that it be published, under Major Wayne’s supervision, by the War Department, for general circulation in the Army, where it is much needed.
I have the honor to be, sir,
Your obedient servant,
WINFIELD SCOTT,
“La plupart des Anciens Militaires que j‘ai connus m‘ont assure, que le soldat exerce aux armes en etoit d’autant plus adroit dans une melee et consequemment plus nuisible a l’ennemi.”—La Boessiere.
“Fencing sharpens the eyesight, increases active power in general, tries the temper, and teaches decision in seizing occasions for acting offensively with effect, or defensively with coolness and resolution. A knowledge to fence with foils, even to exercise the sabre and broadsword, is deemed a necessary, accomplishment for all military men of the higher class. It is useful to the common soldier on account of his duty; it ought therefore to be included among the essentials in his military education, for the sake of its utility.”—Jackson’s View of the Formation, Discipline, and Economy of Armies.
FENCING
WITH
THE SMALL SWORD:
ARRANGED FOR
INSTRUCTION IN SQUADS OR CLASSES,
BREVET MAJOR H. C. WAYNE.
U.S. ARMY,
LATE DIRECTOR OF THE SWORD EXERCISE IN THE U.S.
MILITARY ACADEMY AT WEST POINT.
PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE WAR DEPARTMENT.
WASHINGTON:
PRINTED BY GIDEON AND CO.
1849.
PREFACE.
The following method, the suggestion of Major R. DELAFIELD, U. S. Engineer Corps, when Superintendent of the Military Academy at West Point, was primarily arranged solely for the instruction of the Cadets of that Institution. The scientific studies of the military profession necessarily occupying most of the four years set apart for the course of instruction there, but a short time can be devoted to its practical branches. The time being short, and the number to be instructed generally large, it became necessary to devise some plan by which the greatest amount of both theoretical and practical instruction in the use of the sword might be communicated to the whole of a class. The following method was suggested, and after an experience of three years and a half, its success was such as to warrant its systematic arrangement.
The preparation of the work for publication having been interrupted by the war with Mexico, was, after it, on account of other official engagements, altogether abandoned; but, at the urgent request of several military friends who had seen the system in operation, and who thought that it would be generally useful as a part of military physical education, it was again resumed, and is now presented with that view.
As arranged, the work embraces an outline of the principles of the art, with practices upon them; the object being merely to impart a knowledge of the principles, leaving the student to perfect himself by continued practice, which can alone ensure a skilful and expert use of the sword.
The system of La Boessiere has been followed as the best both in theory. and practice. The modern innovations of “thrusts of the wrist”and “thrusts of extension,” have been carefully avoided as not being in accordance with true principles, and though difficult to be parried by indif-
6 SWORD EXERCISE.
Preface.
ferent swordsmen, they cannot be used successfully against a skilful fencer who understands “time thrusts,” “beating” and “crossing.” Disarms, as formerly taught, are now altogether abandoned as dangerous to execute, and of no use whatever against a practised antagonist; they have been therefore omitted.
The chapeau forming no longer a part of the costume of the day, and the removal and replacing of the mask being difficult and awkward, the salute has been modified, and made to accord with the common salute with the sword, prescribed by the Infantry Tactics, vol. 1, page 188.
To those desirous of becoming proficients in the use of the small sword, either as a branch of the military profession, or as a pleasant, healthful exercise, the study of La Boessiere’s work, “Traits de l’art des armes,” is recommended.
Explanation of terms not defined in the text.
APPEL.—A sudden beat with the right foot, by raising and letting it fall on the same spot, previous to or at the instant of making a feint or thrust.
INSIDE.—To the left.
MEA5URE.—The distance at which an adversary can be touched by a correct development.
OUTSIDE.—Tothe right.
QUARTE.—(Applied to the hand)—nails up.
RIPOSTE—A thrust delivered immediately after a parry
To RIPOSTE.—To parry and thrust.
TIERCE.—Applied to the hand—nails down.
WITHIN.—See Inside.
WlTHOUT.—See Outside
EQUIPMENTS.
A loosely fitting jacket of brown linen, with standing collar, to button on the left ride; the right aide, with the sleeves of the right arm, from the elbow to the shoulder, to be faced with strong buckskin, or other pliable leather. -
A black silk cravat.
Loose easy pantaloons, fitting well in the crotch, with strap and buckle on the waistband behind to draw tight about the waist; or a pair of nett drawers, fitting closely, but allowing free movement of the limbs.
A slipper for the left foot.
A SANDAL for the right foot.
An iron wire mask, with wings for the protection of the ears and side face. (Fig. 7, Plate I.)
A buckskin glove, stuffed with hair, for the right hand.
A pair of foils. (Fig. 1, Plate 1.)
A PLASTRON (Fig 6, Plate 1) made of soft leather on the outside, and of strong linen underneath, stuffed to the thickness of half an inch with hair, well quilted to keep it in its place, but not so tight as to make it stiff and inflexible, for those who require more security than the jacket will afford. It should cover the breast from the throat to the waist, and be fastened by straps and buckles around the neck, back, and waist.
Masks, gloves, slippers, sandals, and foils, may be purchased at most of the shops where military ornaments and equipments are sold, and from many of the importers and dealers in French or German fancy articles.
It will be found cheaper and more satisfactory to buy the blades and handles separately, and to mount them one’s self, than to buy them ready handled.
FOILS
Foils are of two kinds, for lessons and for assaults. The first should be used by beginners, as from their flexibility accidents are less likely to occur, and as the stiffness of the latter would be apt to give to the hand a rigidity injurious to light and ready movement.
The foil for lessons is a flat blade, about 31 inches long, (measuring from shoulder to point,) and should, when bent, curve at least three-fourths of its length from the button. A blade that begins to bend at the middle is badly made, there being too much metal in the feeble, (18); it is consequently not balanced, and would be weighty in the hand. A good blade is strong at the shoulder, and tapers gradually from it to the point.
8 SWORD EXERCISE.
To Mount a Foil.
As the stiffness of the foil for assaults is objectionable in lessons, so the flexibility of the flat blade or foil for lessons renders it unfit for assaults. The foil for assaults is a square blade, about 32 inches long, tapering from shoulder to point, and should, when bent, curve its whole length, A certain degree of stiffness and temper is requisite: if too soft, it will be rendered more so in the process of mounting, and would become altogether useless in two or three assaults; if too hard, it is apt to be brittle, and accidents may happen. A brittle blade, however, that pleases in other respects, may be reduced to a proper temper by heating it a little, and allowing it to cool gradually. Practice will soon enable one to distinguish a well made and balanced blade.
In purchasing a blade, (Fig. 2, Plate 1,) first measure the length, then pass the eye along each of the four sides to detect flaws, if any, then placing the point on the ground, bear the hand down a little and gradually, observing the curve. Be careful not to lower the hand too much and suddenly, as the strain will be thrown upon the feeble, and the blade may break.
The gripe, (18,) (Fig. .5, Plate 1,) should be about four and seven-tenths inches long, and its section a rectangle, (because if rounded it would be liable to turn in the hand,) and of uniform thickness from end to end. A gripe, whose section is rectangular, is easily held without unnecessary compression of the fingers, and allows them free play. The thickness will depend somewhat upon the size of the hand; it is ordinarily two and six-tenths inches in perimeter. It should fill the hand without injuring the grasp.
TO MOUNT A FOIL.
A certain degree of curvature is necessary to a foil, rendering it less liable to be broken, handier, and in the thrusts facilitating the approaches to an adversary’s body, particularly in that of quarte over the area. When the gripe (18) is held horizontally, (concave side down,) the point of the foil should be about two degrees Lower than its shoulder.
This degree of curvature must be given to the blade in part before attaching to it the handle, and is done as follows: Place the tang a b (Fig. 2, Plate 1) horizontally between the jaws of a vice, screw them up until they just touch it, avoiding compression for fear of breaking it. By strongly drawing the blade to you several times, bend it from the shoulder to the middle. If bent too much, straighten it to the degree required.
To attach the handle, place the blade vertically between the jaws of the vice, the tang up, so that the effect of the curve can be seen; screw it tight. Fit the guard, (Fig. 3, Plate 1;) its hole should fit the tang closely when driven down; if it is too small, enlarge it with a narrower file, preserving the squareness of the sides; if too large, reduce it by compressing the guard between the jaws of the vice, or by blows of a hammer. Should the hole not be pierced exactly in the centre of the
SWORD EXERCISE. 9
To Mount a Foil.
guard, fit the largest side on the concave of the blade, otherwise, being on the outside, the effect would be bad. Secure the guard by two or three taps of a hammer to prevent its shaking, which in an assault would be apt to annoy and disconcert. The next thing to he fitted is the gripe. It’s concavity must correspond with that of the blade, and the tang must pass through its middle. If the hole is too small, open it to the required size with a common brace bit. Prepare three wedges of wood to fill the spaces between the tang end the gripe; they should be about two inches long. One of them, and a little the largest, is placed on the concave side, and the other two at right angles to it; a wedge is rarely placed on the convex side. These three wedges, thus placed, should retain the gripe securely in its place, and prevent its turning. They should be of soft wood, and not too thick, otherwise in driving down the gripe might be split by them. The gripe being properly adjusted, apply, to its upper end a wooden drift made for the purpose, and with a hammer commence driving down, tapping lightly, that the direction taken by the gripe may he observed and rectified if necessary. Should it turn to either side, place it horizontally in the vice, the concave side towards you, pass a file through the guard, from the aide of the gripe, bearing the end of it against the blade, and gently prying against the guard, turn the blade until it is brought into its place; replace the blade in the vice, tang up, and with the drift and hammer go on driving as before. As soon as the spaces are filled, cut off the wedges close to the gripe, the one on the concave side the last. Take the foil out of the vice, examine it carefully to see that every thing is right, and make such corrections as may be necessary; replace it in the vice, and with the drift and hammer drive the gripe closely against the guard. In cutting the wedges, make allowance for the swell of the tang; and if in driving down the gripe should show a tendency, or commence to split, immediately cut off the wedges, and placing the blade horizontally in the vice, knock off the gripe by striking with the hammer on the guard, reduce the wedges, and proceed as before.
The only thing remaining to be done is to attach the pommel, (18,) (Fig. 4, Plate. 1.) Before doing this, take the foil from the vice, and again examine it, correcting, according to the directions given, any defects that may be observed; replace it in the vice, the guard near the jaws; give, with the drift and hammer, one or two more blows to make ,‘all tight; fill up with four small wooden wedges any spaces that may be between the tang and gripe, to secure the tang in the middle. Fit the pommel. If the tang is too large, remove the foil from the vice and place between the jaws a hit of fiat wood, in which, with the file, make a small groove to retain the tang. This will be a temporary table to work upon. File away the tang to the required size. Still using the temporary table, slope with the file, the end of the gripe on the left side, (see manner of holding the foil, (20,) ) that the pommel when on may be inclined that way; this inclination prevents its striking against the wrist in any of the movements, and affecting the direction of the point. Return the foil to the vice, clasping it again near the guard; fit on the pommel, filling the space, if any, between it and the tang, with two
10 SWORD EXERCISE.
To Shorten a Blade.
wooden wedges placed on the convex and concave sides; then with. a small iron drift made for the purpose, and a hammer, drive down. As soon as the spaces are filled, cut off the wedges close to the pommel, and finish driving down. The pommel should sit firmly upon the gripe. As soon as the pommel is adjusted, cut off, with the file, whatever of the tang will not be required for rivetting, (about one-tenth of an inch will be enough for this purpose,) and rivet. Take the foil from the vice, and placing in it the pommel, incline it a little to the left on the slope of the gripe. The foil is mounted.
The pommel should not be too heavy, as it would, in the movements, tend to throw the point up. The foil being mounted, give the blade a finishing curve by drawing it under the foot, and arm.
TO SHORTEN A BLADE THAT IS TOO LONG7
HEAVY, AND SOFT
Sometimes we meet with blades as long as 33 inches; these are rarely good for any purpose except to keep at a distance an unskilful antagonist. Should one of this length, however, be met with, giving a good carve, and of which the metal is a little soft, it may be reduced to 32 inches, by taking off half an inch from the point, and half an inch from the shoulder. The half inch taken from the point only adds strength to the blade; cutting off more would spoil its curve.
Having cut off the half inch from the button, measure from the point on the blade 32 inches; mark this measurement by notching the edges with a file. Placing, the blade between the jaws of a vice, work down two of its sides with a coarse file, prolonging the tang and forming a new shoulder, making allowance in filing down, for the tapering of the blade. All this, though tedious, must be done cold, as heating the blade would destroy its temper. Should the hole of the guard be too large for the new shoulder, slipping over it on to the blade, take a bit of brass about the size and thickness of a dime, and make in it a hole just fitting the tang at the shoulder, and on this place the guard. After the guard is adjusted, file away any excess of brass over the guard, which, if allowed to remain, might hurt the fingers.
TO BUTTON A FOIL.
The blade having been shortened as just described, or the button accidentally broken off; place the blade in the vice, leaving about the eighth’ (4) of an inch of the point above the jaws. With a small flat file, smooth on the edges, file away two sides, forming a small tang and shoulder, carefully preserving the squareness of the edges. Take a piece of copper or brass, quarter (4) of an inch square, and of the thickness of half a dime, lay it on a block of hard wood, and make in its middle with a small punch (the end of a broken fail filed down will answer) a rectangular hole just large enough to fit tightly the tang prepared for it; file down the edges raised by the punch, and with a ham-
SWORD EXERCISE. 11
To Cover the Button.
mer flatten it upon the vice; pass the punch through the hole two or three times, from both sides, to clear it, and give a smooth and neat fit; adjust it nicely on the tang, and using a pommel as a drift, with two or three light blows of the hammer, drive it down, gently, but securely; rivet it on, and with a file round its edges, and finish with two or three blows of the hammer to tighten it, should it have been loosened by the action of the file.
TO COVER THE BUTTON.
The buttons of foils are generally too large. Round the edges with a file, and reduce the diameter to one-fifth of an inch. Cut a strip of some soft skin, a little wider than the diameter of the button, as it stretches in drawing; take with it two or three turns over the button, and cover it with a small patch of the same skin doubled. Holding the foi