"Linda Jean"

Sailing Lake Michigan 

2008

 

For many years I had the dream of sailing Lake Michigan.  I came up to Muskegon for my 40th Class Reunion and at that time I formulated a plan to come up five years later, towing my Morgan 24 sailboat and be retired.  Well I retired a little over a year ago and on the 15th of May I will be cranking up my old 1995 F250 diesel truck and starting the long tow up to Michigan.   I will make a few stops along the way to visit friends and family, but hope to be launched by Jun 1, 2008.   The great lakes have been dropping some so I will have to look around for a good launch site.  I hope to launch somewhere close to Muskegon/Grand Haven area.  To prepare for this trip, I have added a depth sounder, cleaned up the trailer some, checked the bearings, improved the boats companionway lock system, added a series drogue for heavy weather, purchased a very heavy 110 jib with reef points, and removed the not so dependable 1996 Honda 8 outboard and replaced with my 1975 Johnson 6 hp motor.   I will have a second motor, a 2.7hp cruise-n-carry, aboard to use on the dinghy if I get tired of rowing my Walker Bay 8 hard dinghy. I will have my laptop with me for this trip and hope to make regular additions to this page as the adventure unfolds.

The long tow up

I departed Warner Robins at 8 AM on 15 May 08.  It was a cloudy day and by the time I was past Atlanta, the rain was starting.  I was scheduled to meet with MSgt Kevin Harris in Dayton, OH. on  the following evening.  The first night found me just north of Lexington, KY. with only a short drive for the next day.  I stayed at a rest area and started taking an inventory of what I had forgotten to take and what still needed to be worked on before I would be launching in Michigan.  The list grew bigger as I thought about it.   I had forgotten to check the main battery in the boat, It was flat dead, zero voltage.  One of the taillights on the trailer had no ground and would not light up, I still needed to add a couple of sturdy cleats on the combing of the cockpit, and I still had to work on a couple of leaks along the toerail.  I breezed into Dayton  Text Box:  by 11AM the following day, and parked in the Fairfield Commons Mall parking lot.  I decided to try out Barnes & Noble for a WIFI connection, would not connect, so I tried the mall, I could connect but could not get to any websites.  Darn, I had hoped to have more success than that.. After visiting with MSgt Harris, that evening, I cranked up the next day and by 9AM was on the road again.   I made it to my sisters home in Sturgis, MI. by 14:30 that day.  Now I only had 150 miles to go now before I would be able to launch.    While looking thru the boat for things, I found that one of my two solar cells had bounced so much while laying in my main cockpit storage locker, that it had broken.  Something else to add to the list of things to fix or replace when I arrived in Muskegon.  Sunday the 18th was a day of visiting with family and of course charging the main battery in "Linda Jean" 

Michigan Summer 1

I launched at Grand Trunk Launch Ramp in Muskegon on 21 May, Wednesday afternoon with just enough water, and docks about 20 feet shorter than I wanted. With a slip at Torrensen Marina for the night, I was Text Box:  ready for sailing the next day. That evening I met Bob George, who 30 plus years ago, sailed a Morgan 24 from the Muskegon area to Venezuela. He had some interesting adventures. The following three days were filled with sailing on Muskegon Lake and hiking in the North Muskegon State Park while I had ‘Linda Jean’ anchored near the shore.

 

            On Saturday, the 24th of May I pulled up the anchor and sailed out of the channel heading south toward Grand Haven. Starting out on the cautious side, I had up a reefed main and my heavy 110. The wind died out so I shook out the main and drifted. Sometimes in circles! An hour later the wind filled in and I was racing along at 5.5 knots. At noon I realized that I had miss-read the landmarks and was nearly at Grand Haven. It really was a short sail with a near perfect wind and only 1-ft. seas. I arrived at the waterfront at 1 p.m. but was soon offered a slip for free for the four days I expected to be there. Grand Haven has a very nice and very busy waterfront, especially on Memorial Weekend.

            The storm hit at 2 a.m. on Monday, May 26th. I was hammered by 40-50 mph winds, rain and lightening. I was glad I had found the slip instead of being tied to the seawall on the waterfront. Monday was filled with a Memorial Day Parade and visiting Aunts, Uncles, Cousins, Nieces and Nephews. Tuesday had a forecast of 15 – 25 mph wind, so I rode my bike around town and visited with friends in the evening. Wednesday the 28th was ‘Laundry and Grocery Store Morning’. After recruiting 2 guys (father and son) to help crew, I headed out at 5:45 p.m. to attend the ‘Blessing of the Fleet’ and the first Wednesday Night Race of the season. The wind was blowing 15 – 18 and seas were about 2 ft. After only sailing away from the channel a little I decided the 120 jib and a reefed main would work good. The other Morgan 24 was running a full main and a 150 jib. ‘Linda Jean’ was loaded for cruising and the other Morgan 24 (Peggy Dash II) was mostly empty inside and a crew of four. We were lining up for the start and had about 4 minutes to go when we heard “All Clear”. We winched in our sails and ‘started’, although the line was still 2-3 minutes ahead of us. The Committee Boat had gotten confused in the sequence and we were now about 3 minutes behind ‘Peggy Dash II’. It was a fun race with us trailing our main competitor by about 2-3 minutes for the whole race. I hope to join them again in their 8+8 (out and back) race on June 21st.

            Thursday the 29th looked like a great day to sail south but the wind did not come in as predicted. I averaged about 2 knots and was 3 miles away from Port Sheldon after sailing for almost 5 ½ hours. I cranked up the motor when I noticed clouds forming about 30-40 miles to the west of me. I was anchored with my biggest anchors down by 4:30 p.m. as the predicted storm approached Port Sheldon. Pigeon Lake is about 3/8 of a mile wide and maybe ½ mile long. A nice safe harbor in a storm. The rain started about 8 p.m. and lasted through the night. It was still raining through my late breakfast. High winds are predicted for today and tomorrow so it may be a few days before I sail south again.

Michigan Summer 2

Saugatuck tides or is my anchor dragging?

I pulled up anchors and motored out of Pigeon Lake on the 1st of Jun expecting 10kts of wind and 1 ft seas.   I got the 1 ft. seas but the wind was about 4kts.  from the Northwest.   I made 2kts for much of the morning and by 13:00 I made the Holland Channel.   The wind picked up a lot as I entered Lake Macatawa and I glided down the lake to anchor behind Superior Point for a quiet place to drop anchor for the evening.  Lots of boat traffic in this section of the lake and It was rock and roll till late in the evening..  The next morning I raised sail and anchor and headed east up the lake.   I found what I wanted, a way to get my dinghy ashore at Kollen Park.   I anchored off the park for the next couple of days enjoying trips into town, between the rain showers.   It was Wednesday,  4 June, when I sailed away from Kollen Park with an East wind blowing 10-15kts.   There was a bit of fog and some drizzle as I sailed out of the channel and turned South toward Saugatuck.  Perhaps this was an omen of what I would find when I got there.   With a reefed main and a reefed heavy duty jib, I made the channel at Saugatuck in exactly one hour.   I averaged 6 Mph.  The dinghy never came off plane.   It was a fun trip but as I entered the channel, I decided to not push my luck and turned right into the little anchorage just inside of the channel.   There was one other boat in the anchorage and I joined them by dropping a couple of anchors to be sure I did not break loose because the forecast for the next couple of days were for winds of up to 25 mph.

 It was two days later about 4PM in the afternoon, with winds gusting to 25-30, that my 18lb Danforth with a 28lb kellet, dragged and I was heading out into the channel.  I quick pulled up the anchors, started the 6hp Johnson and went to look for better holding.   It seems the bottom where I was at was composed of a lot of silt and it would not hold.   I moved to a more shallow area but it had more sand and  looked like it would hold better.  With 3 anchors down, one being on the sandy shore buried, I felt confident I would be able to rest easy that night.  The following day was forecast for some rain in the afternoon so I dinghyed ashore and reset my 8lb Danforth in the sand with a long line to the boat.   My 18lb anchor with an 18lb kellet was set to keep me Text Box:  off the shore.   I thought I was ready.  About 8 PM on Saturday evening the rain started.   By 10 PM there was lightening everywhere and by 2 AM. Sunday morning,  I decided I would just go to sleep because all my anchors seemed to be holding.   I got up later in the morning and found I had left an empty bucket in the cockpit.  It had nine inches of water in it.   My dinghy had water almost 12 inches deep.  Since I had all that fresh clean water available, I  decided to put on my swim suit and take a bath.  It was a little cool but felt nice to be clean.

 

             It was Sunday the 8th of Jun and there was another storm forecast.   It hit about 2:30 and this one had lots of wind.  In our little 2 football field anchorage, we saw clouds forming in the West.  As it got closer, I could see the really darkness of the clouds as they moved in.  I suddenly noticed the temp drop almost 15 degrees and Text Box:  the wind start to pick up.  I quickly put away anything I did not want to get wet and closed myself in the cabin.  The rain started just as I slid the hatch closed.   I watched out the windows as the waves built up and the wind whistled thru the rigging.   Darn, I hope my anchors hold!   As I watched thru my boats windows I noticed it looked like I was drifting very close to the shore and decided to put on my rain gear and pull in some of my Text Box:  anchor line.   With the lightning flashing all around  I cranked up the Johnson 6 hp and put it in forward at low throttle and went forward to pull in the anchor line.   I thought I would be able to pull the boat forward some but it did not seem to be moving.   I turned around and then heard the motor changing pitch.   Going back to check, I found the motor was no longer deep enough in the water and the exhaust was out of the water.   I quickly shut if off realizing I was aground.   Then a curious thing happened.   The boat started heeling over as if there was less water to float in.   It heeled to about 20 degrees before it stopped.  This was in a matter of about 2 minutes.   As I stood there looking at the shore and Text Box:  seeing a lot of the sand and beach showing and trying to figure this out, the boat started to straighten back up again and within 2 minutes it was standing straight up again.   I went forward  again and was soon able to pull in some of the anchor line to move the boat forward.   “Linda Jean” was floating free again.  I looked at the beach again and there was no sand showing and the water level had risen almost 2.5 ft in a matter of about 5 minutes.  Saugatuck has a 2.5ft tide in only 5 Minutes?????   There were more than 3 more of these ‘tides’ throughout the rest of the afternoon.

 

             I had one more rain day while anchored before I sailed out from Saugatuck on Tuesday the 10th with a reefed main and my HD 110 jib.  The wind was Southwest 10-15kts and I made 4kts.  heading into the Holland Channel.  I anchored again in front of Kollen Park so I could dinghy in to visit the library, grocery store and the public library.  I spent some nice quiet days visiting downtown Holland, taking in evening concerts in the park and street entertainers downtown.  On Friday the 13th. at about 2AM I woke to find the wind had picked up some but my anchors seemed to be doing fine.   I went back to sleep but woke again about 4PM. To find the waves in Lake Macatawa were running at least 2 ft and the wind was gusting over 30.   I told my crew it was time to set an anchor watch.   I quickly put on my foul weather suit, tied down my sail cover, checked my anchors, and sat in the cockpit watching for moving landmarks.  By 5:20 AM the wind had dropped below 10mph and I went back to my bunk to sleep late.

 

Michigan Summer 3

Are these storms ever going to end?!!

 

             Brian and Dorthy arrived in their Bucanneer 24, the following afternoon.  I watched as they slowly made there way up the lake.   The wind was very light and it took them almost an hour to make the last mile and a half.   When their anchor was down enough to hold them, I dinghyed over to suggest that they may want to tie to the dock on the east side of Kollen Park so that they would be able to go ashore at their leisure.    I helped them tie up and within a minute, the storm that had been following them in, was on us.   We ran to the park pavilion and watched the rain come down and my boat rock at anchor.   The storm only lasted a half hour or so and then we were back on the dock.  The following day, I spent some time in town at the library, shopping, etc.  By the time I got back to the boat the wind was up to probably 15 and I told Brian and Dorthy, that I was rowing back out and would not be coming back in unless the wind died.   The wind stayed nearly 20mph while I ate supper but by 9PM the clouds moved in and we had another storm coming thru.   The wind kicked up again to well  over 30mph and this time,  the seas were up to 3ft.   I put on my foul weather gear and sat in the cockpit as the boat danced and pulled on the anchor.   I put a float on the anchor I had astern and got ready to let it go if the bow anchor started dragging.   I knew I would be in trouble if it pulled.  I doubted I would be able to pull it up and crank up the motor in time to keep the boat off the sea wall behind me.  I heard a loud bang and looked forward to find that the forward hatch had popped up.  Quickly, I climbed inside and locked it down.  Back out side I wondered "Why didn't I move to the protected shore by Superior Point when I had the chance"?  I watched the shoreline and waited as "Linda Jean" threw spray over the bow.    An hour later, the wind let up, the rain stopped, and shortly the storm was gone.   By 10:30 the water was nearly calm and it was time to go to sleep.   What a day!   I would be packing up early in the morning and sailing North,  It was definitely time to move from this anchorage.  

 

         There was supposed to be a south wind of 10 to 15 in the morning but Lake Macatawa was pretty calm as I sailed away from the anchorage about 7:45.  I put up a reefed main and decided on a reefed HD 110 jib.  As I cruised out the channel, I started have trouble with the wind too close to the West, and with a large two masted ketch close behind, I started up the motor.  Less than 20 seconds later the wind shifted to the South and bumped up to almost 20.  I started flying out the channel.  Shutting off the motor and kicking it up, I turned North and started a fast run toward Port Sheldon.   The ketch by the way, motored out a short ways and then Text Box:  turned around and headed back in.  Maybe a little bumpy for her crew.   The seas were running about 4ft and I was making 6-7kts.  The wind died down some as I approached Port Sheldon near 10:30AM. and  by the time I arrived at 11:20AM. I was down to about 3kts.    I knew it would pickup again later in the day.    I was firmly anchored and settled in when Brian and Dorthy arrived at 17:00.  They had had a bumpy ride later in the afternoon.  Later Brian and I discussed reefing and on Tuesday the 16th, I helped him install a reefing system on his Bucanneer 24.  We used a combination of what he had aboard and some parts I had in my stash 40 year old stuff that came with my boat.  Not much happened for the next couple of days other than taking the dinghy ashore to walk or to visit with Brian and Dorthy.   On Thursday I did try a little creative baking aboard and when I dinghyed over to play cards with Brian and Dorthy that evening I brought along some fresh baked blueberry cake for desert that I had baked on my single burner stove.  The weather forecast for Friday the 20th of June looked good, and I wanted to be in Grand Haven for the 8 + 8 race on Saturday afternoon, so I sailed out of Port Sheldon about 08:00.   The wind was light and with Brian and Dorthy following me, I sailed North with a full main and my HD 110 jib.  It was slow going and maybe halfway there, I decided I would try to hoist my spinnaker, I had gotten from George Sollows off his Bristol 24, a month ago.   This would be the first time I had hoisted it on my Morgan and only the second time I had ever used it.  I arrived at the seawall in Grand Haven about 13:00.  It was pretty bumpy on the seawall and while I was out walking Brian and Dorthy came in and tied up near my boat.  That night on the Wall, was pretty rough.  We had another storm come thru with lots of rain and wind.    I did not get a full night of sleep. 

 

Text Box:   I walked to the Wharf Marina about 10:30 to talk with John Campbell and Pattie Edwards about the 8 + 8 race.   I learned the start would be sometime around 11:30.  I would have to hurry.   I invited Brian and Dorthy to join me as crew and after an initial no, they changed their mind and came aboard.   We quickly untied and motored out the channel.   We did not know our start time but hoped to just follow close to John's "Peggy Dash II"    Well, since the wind seemed to be blowing near 20, and my crew was not comfortable with the amount of heel we were experiencing, we reefed the main and did some practice tacks.   Let me inject here that both Brian and Dorthy had never raced before and this was all new them.   In the process of practicing, we strayed some from the other M24.  When we saw Peggy Dash II go thru the starting line, we realized we would be a little behind him but it was time to start racing.   We headed up wind following John and for a while we were catching up some.   John had up a full main and a 150  genoa.  We had a reefed main and my short HD 110 jib.  Then the wind started fading.  Peggy Dash II started pulling away and the fast boats behind us started catching up.   It was time for lunch while the wind was dead and then we decided what the heck, lets take the penalty and put up the spinnaker.   No sooner did we have the spinnaker set when the wind started filling in and we were starting to pull away from Monkey Wrench ( an S2 7.9) that had been steadily catching up to us.   We sailed around the committee boat that was acting as the turning mark and headed back to the finish.   Monkey Wrench was still behind us.   We pinched the cruising spinnaker as much as we could , but with maybe 2 miles to go, we had to take it down and go back to the HD 110.  Monkey Wrench sailed past us as we fought to pull the spinnaker down.   We finished last and headed in.   When Jack Kelly asked for my time for the finished, I told him I would just volunteer to take last place.  He said he usually did not have someone just volunteer for that position.  The potluck supper at the Grand River Sailing Club was great with lots of interesting stories from their members.   By 8:30 Pm. it was time to head back to the boat and I had to hurry because it was going to rain again.   Once again sleeping while tied to the Wall was difficult.

 

Text Box:            The next day, Sunday the 22nd of June,  with waves still bouncing both of our boats and banging our fenders on the Wall, Brian and I decided we had had enough.   I followed him into the Sag that is maybe a half mile up the river.   We had a quiet night and the following morning, I prepared to lower my mast to motor and then sail up Spring Lake.   I lowered the mast to about 45 degrees and then cleared the highway M104 Bridge with maybe 4ft of clearance.   Anchored up at the end of Spring Lake only a 150 ft from Pomona Park, I spent almost the next two weeks visiting family, and attending my 45th class reunion.   I sailed a couple of days with family and friends for crew and as always, it seems everywhere I sail, the storms follow.  On the 27th we had an evening storm come thru and then on the 28th, a big storm came thru with lots of wind and heavy rain.   My anchors held good for that, so when on the 2nd of July when the 2:30PM afternoon storm came thru with 60 mph winds, I had a lot of confidence that I would be OK.  At 16:00 that same day, a second storm came thru with near 50mph wind and another one arrived by 9PM that night.   I am getting kind of tired of all this bad weather!  

 

Michigan Summer 4

It is time to sail North.

 

In the evening on Monday the 7th of July, I sailed back down Spring Lake to anchor just North of the M104 bridge to be ready to lower the mast of “Linda Jean” in the morning so I could catch the 08:30 bridge opening of US 31 over the Grand River.   The morning was gray and windy.   I decided to get thru the bridges and then anchor in the Sag  to get the rigging tightened back up.   After anchoring, and listening to the weather, I decided to wait one more day before sailing North.   Larry Frazine called later and we went out touring in his vintage Corvette.  The following day, the wind was pretty strong so I put off sailing North.  I got a call from Mary Trumpfheller in the middle of the afternoon and we reminisced about our high school days.   I motored out on the morning of 9 July early and headed for White Lake.   The wind was from the Northwest and by the time I was near Muskegon, the seas were up to 6ft and I decided I would hide behind the dunes of Muskegon State Park.  It was a good decision.   The following day, my sister Dolores, met me at Hartshorn Marina to sail with me to White Lake.  The winds was supposed to be 5-10 and they ranged from 5-15.  It was a great sailing day.  We arrived in White Lake at 14:30 and sailed up the lake on the Southern shore.  We miscalculated our location and found ourselves hard aground in about 2.5 ft of water and “Linda Jean” draws 2ft 9”.  We tried a lot of things  including running the motor, heeling the boat, then using the dinghy, setting out my largest anchor to try to pull us off.  We made some progress and even more when Dolores leaned out on the low side of the boat as I was on the bow pulling on the anchor line.   Shortly a nice family on a pontoon boat with a 25hp motor, came along, grabbed a line and easily pulled us the last 10-15 ft we needed to get free.   I had never been aground that hard before, and hopefully never again.   We continued sailing up the lake and after passing the marinas, we turned around and anchored just West of Whitehall Landing.  It was now past 5PM and time to get started on supper.  We were doing the dishes when the clouds rolled in.  It looked to be a bad storm, but I had my largest anchor set out and we were hiding behind the peninsula where the Leather Factory used to be, and it looked to be a good location for a storm with a South or West wind.  The storm started coming in about 8:30 PM and it did not seem to be too bad, but by 9:30, when the rain really started falling, the sky was very dark.   In a short time the wind was  whistling thru the rigging and the boat was rocking and rolling.   We both could not go to bed but just looked out the windows watching the water and the lightening.   By something close to 11PM, we both knew we had drug the anchor quite a little and it was time to go out on deck in rain gear and see what we could do.  We were dangerously close to the pilings that was originally 150 feet behind us.   My biggest anchor had drug more than 100 feet.  I dug into my anchor locker and pulled out my smaller 8lb anchor.  I loaded it into the dinghy, donned a lifejacket and rowed it out to help us hold our present position.  Dolores was not too keen on this idea because the water was still pretty rough and the dinghy looked pretty small for the waves.   By 11:30, I had set the anchor and felt a lot better, but by then, I noticed the wind had dropped to below 10mph and the storm was fading.  We both hit our bunks by  midnight with the wind almost still and the boat not rocking at all.   The big storm was over.   This was a new experience for Dolores, to spend the night on a boat and to go thru a serious storm as we had.  The following day, Dolores departed and shortly afterward, I pulled up all the anchors, pulled the boat close to shore and tied the bow to a tall piling with 100 ft of line , then set a second anchor to the North to keep me off the shore if the wind shifted and settled in for a couple of days to visit family and explore Whitehall & Montague. 

 

Michigan Summer 5

Did we go too far?   Can we stay ahead of this storm?

 

It was Monday, the  14th of Jul and I had enjoyed being anchored in White Lake for a couple of days visiting with family but it was time to be on the move again.  I had recruited my nephew, Ron Mumby, to come on as crew for 5-6 days to sail North.  He arrived about 09:30 and by 10:00 we were sailing down White Lake, headed North.  Ron had never been sailing before and was unfamiliar with all the vocabulary we sailors use when sailing, but he is a quick learner and was soon at ease with being on the tiller or handling the sheets as we made our way north.   We had a Text Box:  Northwest wind, so we tacked West until almost Noon, then sailed North in a 10-15kt wind.  As we rounded Little Sable Pt, the wind was now out of the Southwest, so we put up the spinnaker and sailed to the channel for Pentwater.  The spinnaker had a little problem going up so when were anchored and had finished supper, we looked at the spinnaker sock and found a worn block at the top of the sock.   I replaced the block so we could try it again soon to see if replacing the block solved all the problems raising the spinnaker. 

The following day, Tuesday, we got an early start and by 0815 we were motoring out of Pentwater Lake.  With a Southwest wind and 1-3 ft seas we sailed North again, making about 5kts.  We were almost to Ludington when a dark cloud formed to the North.  We shortened sail and shortly after, the wind hit us and we picked up speed.  A very short time later the wind died, so we took out the reefs and tried to get our speed up.  It was not long before we were passing Bib Sable Pt, and we noticed on the GPS that we were making 7.3kts.  Time to reef again.  With just a Text Box:  reefed main now our speed was still over 7kts and we decided to pass by Manistee and Portage Lake with the seas about 6ft.  It looked like we would make Arcadia before six PM.  We passed Portage lake and  the dinghy was now surfing down the waves behind us and after a couple of times of bumping the stern of "Linda Jean" I added 50 feet of line to the painter and now the dinghy was more than a wave behind us and could not bump us.  When we approached Arcadia, the seas were now up to 8ft, and they was pushing the boat around quite a bit.   We did a 270 turn to get on the starboard tack and then surfed into the very narrow channel.  We had made it without any disasters with the wind blowing now close to 25mph.  Timing on any maneuvers was now very important and I talked over each one so we both would know the plan before we did anything.   I Text Box:  don't think Ron wanted to be out there much longer.   Arcadia is a very small town with a very small lake, but that is what made it such a nice port of refuge from the high winds we had just experienced.  We sailed up to a sheltered cove for  a quiet night at anchor after making a record 52 miles.   I did not come close to that record for the rest of the trip.  That was also the fastest I would have the boat sailing during my trip.  We met a skipper of a Catalina 30 that evening who decided to sail out at 8PM that night to sail North.  We warned him about the 8ft sees but he wanted to go anyway.   We later found him in Leland a few days later and asked how that night sail went, and he responded that he had barely cleared the channel before he turned around and came back in to anchor just inside the channel for the night because the seas were still to much. 

 On Wednesday, Ron and I departed Arcadia about 7:30 on a West tack for about 2 miles then turned North again.   After a couple of miles the wind really dropped off and we decided to motor some because our destination for the day was South Manitou Island and it was nearly 35 miles away.  We motor some, then sailed some, then back to the motor.   We watched a large storm form in the West as we made slow progress on the now nearly calm Lake Michigan.   It was getting to mid Text Box:  afternoon when we thought we might get caught in the storm but with some progress sailing then motoring we seemed to be staying North of the storm.  I got a couple of calls from Muskegon from my two sisters asking if we were anywhere near the storm because there were severe weather warnings out and expected winds of 50-60mph.  We continued to make slow but steady progress and finally make the harbor in South Manitou Island by 7:30 and was anchored by 8PM. We had used up more 3/4ths of the gas we had aboard to stay ahead of the storm.   As predicted, there were high winds and heavy rain from Frankfort all the way South to Grand Haven.  We had been able to stay just enough North of it to out of danger.   We got some rain and some wind that night but nothing too bad, although there were some big boats in the anchorage that came in to escape the storm. One of them was a 50 some foot yacht which had 3 roller furling head sails and a roller furling mainsail with no boom.  Very different configuration.  I am not sure how well it would sail with no boom.   The following day was filled with 2 rain showers and lots of walking on the island.  It is part of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park and with no private motor vehicles allowed, walking is the only transportation except for special tours the park rangers sometimes schedule.  We had planned to sail out on the 18th and with a light wind it seemed to be a good day to go.   There was some fog and we were heading to Leland.   After only sailing about a mile or two, we were completely surrounded by fog and for the next 10 Text Box:  miles, we steered by the compass, seeing only one navigation aid to assure us that we were on course.  We were less than a mile away when the masts of the sailboats in the harbor at Leland came into sight.   We anchored next to the breakwater in the small harbor using two anchors and a line tied to a recovered 2X4 wedged in the rocks to keep us in place.  Ron left me the next day to go back home and that evening I had a very pleasant surprise as I dinghed out to my boat about 6:30PM.  I could see some heads of something in the water as I climbed aboard and quickly decided I needed my camera.   It was a family of otters with m5 pups and two adults.  The pups just wanted to Text Box:  play on the rocks and adults wanted to catch some fish to eat.  They swam around the harbor for about 10-15 minutes, and then started back out catching fish and eating them near the rocks before swimming out.  The pictures did not turn out because I do not have a zoom lens on my digital camera.     I stayed in Leland for a few days catching up on e-mail at the Leland library, restocking  my galley and refilling my water & gas tanks.   I took some pictures around town including a section called Fish town.  Lots of tourists come to Leland to visit the shops in Fishtown. 

 

Michigan Summer 6

 

Where did all this wind come from?

 

It was time to leave Leland and I decided to sail to Charlevoix, instead of sailing into Grand Traverse Bay.   The wind was from the North and with a minimum of tacks, I should be able to make good time.  I wanted to leave early but at 5AM there were lots of dark clouds to the North with a pretty strong wind.   I went back to bed and got up at 8:30 to find still some clouds but with daylight, it did not seem so bad.   I had to untie the boat from the rocks of the breakwater, then pull up the anchors.   as I prepared to get under way, I had untied from the rocks of the breakwater and then pulled up my stern anchor.   The boat was swinging around on the bow anchor and it looked like I had lost control. A fishing boat heading out came by to ask if I needed any help, because I already had the mainsail up and it was a small harbor.  I had only one anchor to pull up then and with it up, I just motored out of the harbor.  I tacked out from Leland with reefed main and reefed jib.   The seas were at least 4ft and the wind more than 15mph.  I was busy sailing for the first 5 miles, then the wind slacked some and I took out the reefs in both sails.  I pinched past the tip of Leelanau Peninsula and by then could see the stacks and structures of the cement company near Charlevoix.   They were at least 15miles away but were a good land mark to sail toward.   by the time I sailed near the cement company, the wind was really getting light and progress was slow.   I motored the final mile to Charlevoix Harbor Channel, and made the 7:30 PM. bridge opening.  I anchored in Round Lake for the evening near Park Island.  

     I called my sister Rita that night and arranged to have Mark Douglas meet me at the Municipal Marina Gas Dock to go sailing the next day.   I picked up Mark at about 10AM. and we sailed up Round Lake and into Lake Charlevoix.  We had a great sail down wind making it almost to Boyne City before we turned around to head back.  The wind had picked up some and we had a spirited upwind sail to Ironton.   At one point, a gust of wind hit us that had shifted about 40-50 degrees and we had the rail buried for what seemed like a couple of minutes although it was only 10-20 seconds until I could get the boat pointed into the gust to take the pressure off the sails.   I was sitting in some water before it was all over.   We made a little more effort to be ready for wind gusts after that as we made very good speed going to the boat ramp at Ironton. 

              I found a good anchorage Text Box:  near the Cable Car Ferry for the night and the following day I sailed to East Jordan and back.  Late in the evening the wind changed and I went looking for a quieter place on the North side of the Cable Car Ferry this time.   On Friday the 25th of Jul, I sailed away from my quiet anchorage, and decided to sail to Boyne City.  The trip downwind was quite fast and I was hugging the shore looking for a boat ramp that was marked on the chart.   I wanted to located it so I could meet my brother  Eugene, for a daysail on Saturday.   I did not find an open boat ramp but when I turned around at Boyne City, and  I soon realized the wind had really picked up.   I had been sailing with a reefed main and HD 110 jib and quickly realized as I headed upwind that I had way too much sail up.   The wind must have been blowing 25 mph plus.   I confirmed that on the radio, and headed for a point that I could hide behind enough to reef some more.   I put in the 2nd reef in the main and reefed the jib.  This was the first time I had used my 2nd reef in the mainsail.  This was to be the most wind that I had to sail into for my entire cruise.  As I sailed up wind again, I still had to work at not burying the rail from time to time.   I finally made it up near the Cable Car Ferry to drop anchor.  I set my anchors in a V shape off the bow and added 18 lb kellets to each of them.  By 7PM there were storm clouds approaching and it got windy and rained for nearly 2 hours.   The next morning, I found that I had ripped off some skin on my right hand and had strained my left shoulder.   A little spray of "new skin" fixed the hand and after listening to the weather report, I called to cancel the daysailing scheduled for the following day with my brother because the wind was again to be blowing over 20mph.  On Sunday the 27th of July, I made last minute purchases of gasoline, groceries, and ice and sailed to Round Lake to get ready to sail out of Charlevoix the next morning.   

    I was ready for the 7:30 AM bridge opening and headed out of Charlevoix channel to find 3-5 ft seas and winds around 15MPH.  I had to tack Northeast and then WNW.  I was sailing with a reefed mainsail and my HD 110 jib.  After about 2 hours the wind slackened and I pulled out the reef in the mainsail and really started to make some good time.  I still could not sail directly toward the North end Beaver Island but was by 14:00 I was getting close to the southern tip.  With full sail up, I had a great time sailing, pushing the boat as fast as I could, well into the late afternoon.  The wind changed again coming out of the West and I was able to  sail down wind going North, but not very fast. Soon the wind died out completely and I had to motor the last 1.5 miles to get into St James Harbor in Beaver Island.  I arrived at 7:30 PM and anchored in the middle of the harbor in a shallow section of the harbor thinking not many boats would want to get in the thin water.   I was right but there were still many boats around creating wakes that rock the boat.  It seemed that I had just gotten to sleep before I heard a tap, tap , tap on the hull.   No what, had I anchored in the wrong place, was the Harbormaster wanting me to move?   I looked out to find the stars out bright, but no boats around me and no sign of anyone.  Very strange.   I went back to bed.   It was 4AM when I was again awakened by tapping on the hull.   This time when I looked out I found out who was doing the tapping.   A duck was taping on the hull trying to get some of the seaweed or something that had attached to the hull near the waterline.  It swam off and I ignored any further tapping while I was anchored at St James Harbor in Beaver Island.  I toured the island, walked some, visited the museums, and restocked my galley again.   This would be the Northern most point I would sail on my Michigan Summer Vacation.