L’AMI DE MOLLANS

 

 

Hi to everyone from our peace of paradise and the rose bubble of Mollans-sur-Ouveze in the heart of the Rhone valley.  Thanks again to all of you who visited, participated and are inquiring after MaisonMollans’ health, availability and next year’s programs.

 

First off:  For those of you inquiring over the last few weeks, there are NO riots happening in Mollans.

 

 

Guys, it took 1 1/2 years and way too many phone calls, pleadings and prayers…delays like Monsieur Noué’s bad back, the errant help, the saint’s days that forbid work….oy….HOWEVER, the new shower and sink are well installed in the cell bedroom.  And they work beautifully!  Good news for those of you renting next season.  You gonna love it.  Cuts the shower program in 1/2……..you’ll get to the market in record time in the morning!

 

The DVD evening entertainment selections continue to grow so bring that laptop with you if you can.  We’re up to about 45 DVD selections from Sherlock Holmes to Richard Gere’s latest.  This year we watched Sideways with the Rhône Rangers while sipping a 25 Euro bottle of Pinot Noir from Burgundy…….Grand Cru no less.   Went remarkably well with the Healthy Choice Popcorn…

 

 

 

 

Still winning our hearts is the Charette Bleu just outside of Nyons.  We had lunch on the terrace several times and were always enchanted and left as very happy campers.  The highlight experience perhaps was with our friends Jean Claude and Annette Ramseyer and the Rhône Rangers………dessert that afternoon was a spiritual experience.  The only small problem is that the plates, when presented, really belong in an art gallery.  Truly a pity to destroy that incredible raspberry coulis darting in and out of the crème fraîche and chocolate dome…….

 

Even a vegetarian can profit at the St. Hubert but the carnivores loved the local game cuisine this last October …Our students, hands down, enjoyed this resto experience the most.  During the spring and summer, you can dine outside in the bucolic courtyard…….I dunno……what’s better?  The warm fireside in October with the quail and stuff from the “chasse” or light summer fare under the stars?  Take your pick…..it’s makes for a heavenly eve either way.  Note that this is the only local resto where we’ve had pitchers of Châteaneuf-du-Pape.  Can you believe it?

 

You got an appetite?  Head to Auberge de la Clue, about 20 minutes up the hill in Plaisians.  The menu has changed a little but rest easy.  They still come ‘round with the terrine of Fromage de Tête for a freebee.  The Salade de la Mer still sports the best smoked salmon in the area and sweet dinky mussels, the odd snail and  finger lickin’ shrimp.  The lamb is as tender as ever and the duck confit cuts by looking at it.  The cheese cart still takes muscle to wield it around and the homey desserts continue to win our hearts.  Watch that sorbet course though with the quince sorbet and marc……..you do have to drive back to MaisonMollans!

 

 

Chateau Girasols remains our favorite weekend wine.  John (who learned the craft at Joseph Phelps when Hallie worked there) and Francoise (who is the actual winemaker in the family) have produced Châteauneuf du Pape quality wines for years at Drôme prices.  That is to say, hang on to your sox………and buy up as much as you can of the 1998 Rasteau when you visit.  When paired with the big guns Gigondas and Châteauneuf……we liked it better!……for about 12 to 15 US dollars.

 

Monday through Friday we’ve adopted the new craze for “Bag een Boxe” and the best red we’ve found is the Gros Pata, just 10 minutes from Vaison.  About 17 dollars for 5 liters.  Weep in Arizona.

For the roses, choose Domaine des Champs Longue in nearby Entrechaux…….they do the Bag in the Box now also.  For whites, it’s a little harder.  You’ll have to go up the mountain for 15 to 20 minutes to St. Jalle……try the Viognier.  Very different than what we see in the states.  The Hachette guide gives it the 3 thumbs up.  If you’re renting from us in June or July you’ll be able to buy it in the Bag in Box in both 5 and 10 liter containers……..that’s half the bottle price.

 

 

So you’ve bit by the bug?  You love Mollans as much as we do and want to think about a property near us.  Currently there’s a few just up the street………still affordable by Drôme standards which are so much lower than the rest of Provence.  I think by now you know that Hallie is a licensed real estate agent and can help you on both ends.  When the urge is overwhelming, please call us to set up appointments to see properties.  If you find something you like, we can assist with the language, the steps needed to purchase a property in France, the notaries……and so many of the little necessary details.

 

 

 

FALL COMPOTE OF RABBIT AND PRUNES

 

 

At Maison Mollans we cook a lot of rabbit.  It is so different than the supermarket variety found in most supermarkets in the states.  Our local rabbits are meaty, and remain moist when cooked.  On a brisk fall day, we serve this with wild mushrooms, crusty bread, and a small salad.  It’s actually better if made ahead and gently rewarmed.  It is better slightly warm than piping hot.

 

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 rabbit, cut in pieces

5 large shallots, peeled and halved

1 cup pitted prunes

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 cup dry white wine

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons rose pepper corns

2 large sprigs fresh basil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Small handful Italian parsley, minced

 

 

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.  In a large oven proof skillet or heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the rabbit, shallots and prunes.  Brown the rabbit for 10 minutes, turning occasionally.  Add the vinegar, wine and herbs.  Season with salt and pepper.  Cover and bake for 2 hours or until rabbit is falling off the bones.  Remove from oven and cool.  When cool enough to handle, remove meat from the bones.  Replace the rabbit in the pot, reseason with salt and pepper.  Cool, cover and refrigerate or serve after about 45 minutes, when rabbit is just slightly warm.  Sprinkle the parsley over the top just before serving.

 

 

Serves 4-6

 

 

Pumpkin Polenta

 

 

 

Mary and I were waltzing through Hediard with 2 enthusiast students and we glanced at  a new publication that had a pumpkin polenta.  Sounded intriguing to me so when the Rhone Rangers showed up……pumpkin polenta it was.  Here’s how.  This is a great recipe for the holidays in that you can make it way ahead (read 3 days) and simply rewarm it.  Try to find the small sweet cooking pumpkins.

 

 

 

1 small cooking pumpkin, about 1 pound

4 cups water

1 cup milk

1 cup polenta or stone-ground cornmeal

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Olive oil

 

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.  Place the pumpkin on a baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes or until very tender.  Remove from the oven and when cool enough to handle, peel, seed and puree the pumpkin flesh in a blender.

In a large saucepan bring the water and milk to a boil and season with 1 tablespoon salt.

Gradually whisk in the polenta and bring again to a boil.  Stir in the pumpkin and season with nutmeg and pepper.  When polenta has thickened, stir in the butter and remove from the heat.  Pour into an oiled 9-inch baking pan.  Let cool, cover and refrigerate up to 3 days or dot the surface with olive oil. 

When ready to serve, heat the oven to 350 degrees.  Heat the polenta until a toothpick tests “hot” when inserted.  Serve immediately as a side dish to turkey, chicken or squab.

 

 

WARM CAMEMBERT AND APPLE APPETIZERS

 

What to serve with drinks besides our gorgeous local olives is a question we like to answer.  Here’s one solution that became a favorite of our British friends Margaret and Alan.

 

1 round ripe Camembert cheese  (Note: A ripe Brie can be substituted)

2 medium sweet yellow delicious or gala apples, roughly chopped into 3/4-inch pieces

2 tablespoons sweet butter

1 teaspoon confectioner’s sugar

 

1.  Cut the Camembert into small 3/4-inch pieces. 

2.  Place the apples and butter in a medium-sized skillet and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes or until apples just begin to soften.  Sprinkle with sugar, cook for 1 minute longer and remove from the heat.

3.  Using toothpicks, skewer apples and cheese.

 

Serve warm or at room temperature.

 

Serves about 6 to 8

 

 

 

En route to Spain this year, Mary had a hankerin’ for Banyuls vinegar, that very subtle, slightly sweet elixir that is a fabulous marriage with pears and walnuts and salty blue cheese.  We hit the cellar of Templiers and discovered that Banyuls is the only AOC designated sweet wine in France.  Templiers is a bit bizarre in that they are also the only solar powered vineyard in France and what’s more, they age the wine 6 months inside in barrels and 6 months outside in the heat.  The result is fairly incredible.  We both bought their aperitif and dessert Banyuls wines and the vinegar which I’ve been doling out in thimble-fuls in Prescott.  It is possible to find Banyuls wines and vinegars in the States or on the internet.  If you do find it, make this salad!

 

3 cups assorted lettuces

1 ripe Anjou or sweet pear, cored and thinly sliced

1/2 cup walnuts, toasted

1/4 cup best quality blue cheese, cut in small chunks or cubed

2 tablespoons Banyuls vinegar

Zest of 1 lemon

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh chives, minced

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

 

Arrange the lettuces on a large serving platter.  Place the pears, walnuts and blue cheese over the lettuces and set aside.  In a small bowl whisk together the vinegar, zest, and olive oil and chives.  Season to taste with salt and pepper..  Spoon the dressing over the salad and serve with a large basket of warm country bread.

 

Serves 2-3

 

 

 

 

When you come back to the States and try to duplicate your experience, life can seem tough.  Gone are the 20 goat cheeses at every turn, Veronique, the herb lady, Guy, the Lavender man, the vineyards, the lamb and by gosh the duck in all of it’s forms from Magret to Confit.  Luckily, there exists one Jim Reichardt and Liberty Ducks in Sonoma, California.  DuckMan came to visit this last season and boy did we learn a lot!  We’re both well-versed in duck varietals, care, watering and feeding and best of all cooking the finished producted.   After all the great duck in Mollans  we ordered a few packs of duck breasts for a class in Prescott and WOW………Jim’s special treatment of his birds…..from the breeding environment to the feed…..it’s as close as you get to France and maybe a notch above!  Jim, who caters to the stars like Wolfgang Puck in Los Angeles and  Thomas Keller at the French Laundry,, is just as happy to ship to us regular folk…….ducks can arrive at your door  via FedEX 2nd day.  In Prescott, I’ve been  ordering  way more than I’m gonna use right away and freezing the rest.  Ducks, like all things with a sizeable amount of fat, freeze beautifully.  To contact Jim at Liberty Ducks:  Call: 707-480-0379.

 

 

 

 

A whole day for Unpolished Paris:  Those of you who’ve signed on for next season and are considering the Paris supplement of 2-4 days.  We’ve got a new day planned!  It involves incredible market finds, some beautiful music, a delicious tea room and honest to goodness, the best hot chocolate you’ve ever sipped.

 

Petit Niçois:  For fish in the 7th, still the best mussels in Paris after all these years and changes of the guard. 

 

Poujauran:  Monsieur Poujauran has indeed sold his bakery however the good news is that when you arrive at the little pink boutique on  r Jean Nicot in the 7th, the same beautiful aromas and tastes await.  Next time you passing through, grab a fig and hazelnut roll and ask them to wrap up a financier.  It’s heaven.

 

Ladurée:  Still the best croissant for our Euro in Paris…….and the hoopla of the tea and coffee service on Rue Royale really is worth it, not to mention the writers, movie stars, and local eccentrics you may encounter.

 

Lenôtre Vialables:  For the latest and hottest in Paris in “haute delis”:  take those large vials used for spices…….you see them everywhere in the states.  With the little rubber stopper on top and filled with peppercorns, various spice blends etc.  Well Fauchon and Lenôtre in Paris are using these vials as little to-go containers for salad dressings on their chic-chic salads with a morsel of salmon terrine, an egg stuffed with mousse and topped with caviar……..you get the drift………a little much….but the vial idea…….that could be a keeper.

 

 

 

 

And so in closing, Hallie’s off to cold and damp London for a Vive la France conference in January.  As you know, she gets cold when the temperature drops below 80 degrees…….she’s packing her heavy Coat-du-Rhone

 

A bientot!

 

Hallie Harron and Mary Evans

MaisonMollans

Mollans-sur-Ouveze, France

 

 

 

 

Mary and I will be sending out similar newsletters over the next year that will include info like new restaurant reviews, our personal tried and true vendors, places to visit for products like fresh foie gras, recipes and kitchenspeak from MaisonMollans, how to cope with cèpes and truffle investments, the tricks to making perfect quince honey and the benefits of Mona Lisa potatoes.  We’ll also be able to update you on available properties in the Drôme and just general news of the region as well as our new haunts in Paris and revised “Unpolished Paris” possibilities.  This first newsletter is yours for the taking and we hope you share it with any of your francophile friends.  And if you’ve stayed with us in Mollans, taken classes or spent time with us in Paris, please share you thoughts and favorite memories and we’ll tell the rest of the subscribers. 

 

 

Until soon, 3 Mollanaise bizou,  Hallie Harron and Mary Evans……..Maison Mollans