Welcome To The Crew
The "Cruising the Section"
Section
Where you go to check the surf.
Some of the following connections will lead you from the Viejos pages. Set your bookmarks for this page now.
West Coast Surfers Satellite Image
More Cams just in case...
Current Swell Buoys, Winds, Temps Swell Windows at the Coastal Data Information Program
Surf Stills from the Shores Surf Cameras are up, then down, then up..
Current Tides for L.J.
How does a great RI winter surf day begin?
It begins at the crack of dawn with the puppy whining for it's morning ritual of going out and getting that scrumptious morning grub. After the pleasantries of preparing a dish of fine puppy chow, water, and wet food puree... I lose my appetite.
I take a look outside and it appears to be a nice day. The sky is clouded over, the wind is only blowing about 10 to 15mph. The temperature doesn't appear to be that bad because the puddles on the driveway are not iced over. I toss my sweater on and venture outside for a stroll (The puppy has to GO!).
Wow! I was right! It is a nice day! My hair didn't freeze the instant I opened the door! My throat doesn't hurt from the bitter cold wind. I would say that it is in the upper 30's today. It's a great day for surfing I say.
I pack up my wetsuit (5/3mm integrated hood with seamless zipper entry,...), my booties (3mm titanium lined), my pairs of gloves (3mm fingered and 6mm mittens (proper East Coast pronunciation of mittens is without the t's, you may have to practice:)). I fill up my gallon Gatorade bottle with hot water and wrap it with my towel (Pyfer trick). Oh, My board... I ease my 10' board through our spacious apartment (highly sarcastic) and mount it on top of the rodeo. I am ready to go...
I jump into the car with the whinny puppy at my side ready to go. We're headed to the creatively named beaches, 1st and 2nd beach. That's their real names...(Navy town would explain it)
We're approaching 1st beach... Are those waves I see? Yep they are about knee high with not much form. They are coming in consistently like storm surf. I don't see any sets. Let's see what 2nd beach has...
Coming over the ridge to 2nd beach I see something nice. Oh, I forgot to mention that the rain has begun to fall. I pull into the parking lot with the windshield wipers going. Wow, a shoulder high set came in with good form! Quick, I have to get my gear on and get out there. I step outside of my truck and begin to get my 5/3 suit on, it's really quick and easy:) Then my booties, then my gloves, get the board off of the truck, keep the puppy in, hey don't miss this swell!!!
Don't worry about the freezing rain coming down. Yes, it got colder and it is sleeting now. There are still people walking their dogs on the beach with about 10 layers of clothes and an umbrella. They look at me like I have lost my mind. I am just doing a towel change in 32 degree weather with freezing rain coming down. I haven't lost my mind. One man comments to me, "It looks pretty miserable out there!" I reply, "But looks like a lot of fun too!"
Finally I get into the water. The rain has stopped and the wind has died down. I time it right and paddle out between the sets. No water on the face yet:). The first set comes in and I turn to paddle for it. Although there are about 20 guys out here, I am the only one on this peak. I get right into it and catch a Terramar ( SD reef break) reminiscent wave. Long left about shoulder to head high and just peeling off right behind me. I jump off close to shore and let out a shout of joy! What a great ride! I paddle out through the set not paying attention to the water that pushes under my hood creating instant pain. I am just thinking of that ride!
Oh, here's another set. Same thing, long lefts all day! About an hour and twenty minutes go by. I can't feel my feet anymore, my hands are getting numb. I see the biggest set of the day coming in and it has my name all over it! I am not missing this one! Yes! I get it and pull a quick left. I am hanging up near the crest of the wave teasing up and down it slightly. I am out running it, so I turn right and come back into the break... step (Yes I actually took a step Bill) up to the front portion of the board and glide, powerglide:) I ride it until I jump off in knee deep water.
I decide to end the day there. An old man who is paddling out in these optimum conditions yells out, "You have to get out there and catch another one" I respond smiling "I can't feel my feet" he laughs and my surfing day is almost complete.
The most fun part is getting out of this wetsuit in the snow. Yes, it began to snow. Now people really look at me strange while I do my towel change in the blowing snow. I come back to the house and toss on a lot of clothes, turn on the TV, and stare at it for hours. I love that after surf zone!!! I was in it!
Well, now that I made all of you jealous by giving you a detailed description of a great surf day I'll let you go off and suffer in the water that is in the upper 50's and the air temps in the 60's or 70's. I would hate to suffer like that.
Seriously, I had a great time surfing out here the last couple of days despite these conditions. I guess that is why they call surfing a passion! I look forward to seeing all of you soon and suffering in those Southern CA conditions.
Peace, Paul
"Get It Wired" Section
"Good thing the waves haven't changed!"
Viejos
Longboard Photo Page
California Surf
History & The Velzy Gallery.
"In Search
of...Baja" Unidentified flying objects south of the border.
"Talk story"
Origins of a California original... The Malibu Express.
Longboard
Party Page
The Velzy
Surfboard Gallery.
"On A Mission" Section
"How did they do that?"
The Deed and
how to keep it. Greg Spaniol's letter to the council.
Rusty's letter to
the city council.
Surf-related write in. For submissions, mail, comments and questions click here.
