The Vanity

 

Hi all,

So you are interested in the Vanity I built for my daughter's 16th birthday, unfortunately was not completed in time.  I'm glad you are.  I have broke this article down, or at least that is my idea as I start writing, into a few blocks.  I am going to start with how I designed it then I will go into the actual build process.  Now please keep in mind as you read through this that I will not list every step and I won't have pictures of every detail, this is in part because I do things that I don't even realize I am doing, and I may just over look a step.  If you are reading along and you want to build this and I have missed something all you need to do is contact me at Messmanswoodworking@cox.net , ask, and I will do my best to answer you. 

DISCLAIMER

Woodworking is a dangerous hobby.  I am not responsible for any injury you or others receive while following these instructions, hints, ideas, or plans.  Please read, understand, and follow the user manual that comes with your tools.  Do not operate, use, or step foot in your shop during or after the use of alcoholic beverages or use of drugs or any other substance that impairs your thinking process.  Remember the most important safety tool in your shop is your brain.  Use it!!!!!!!!!! 

The Design

What I did when I started thinking about this was look at some plans and pictures on the internet.  I looked at a number of them from modern to the older style.  I made a number of sketches and threw them away until I came up with a rough idea of what I wanted.  I would scan and show it to you but I lost it, sorry.  I then took a tape measure out and said ok this looks about right and this looks about right.  I don't suggest that to you, I suggest you read the article on designing furniture and follow the tips there.  I then scaled by eye from there.  I continued the design process all the way through the build.  I changed things here and there to meet the needs of the build.  I added things and took things away as required based on my abilities, my tool abilities, and on hand supplies.  

Wood I Used

Red Oak Ply-Wood 3/4"

Cherry, I got about 25 bf but I only used about 10bf or so.  

Birch Ply-Wood 1/2"

Birch Ply-Wood 3/4"

Mahogany, some scrap I had lying around

The Main Carcass & Drawers

 

First I cut the Red-Oak Ply-Wood to size using a straight edge.  The next thing I had to do was decide how I was going to connect the ply-wood to the edging.  This took some thought on my part because there are a number of ways this could have been done. Biscuits, dowels, many different kinds of joints and splines.   I choose splines.

 

Since I am using splines for this project I had to create a groove in the ply-wood to accept the spline.  To do this I used a router bit designed to create a 3/8" grove.  I did this to all 4 edges of the ply-wood.  If you notice in the picture I used the fence on the router table, you may be asking why when there is a guide bushing on the bit?  The reason is because the bit is designed to cut deeper than I wanted it to go.

 

Next I had to cut the splines themselves.  I used the table saw for this.  THIS IS A DANGEROUS OPERATION I WILL NOT SHOW PICTURES OF THIS.  After the splines were cut they were test fitted to ensure a snug fit.  

 

The next operation I did was to mill the cherry to size.  This required that it be square up first, because it only came with one straight edge. I then cut the side pieces to width and to length.  Actually I had my son and his friend cut them to length.  The picture to the right is actually my son's friend cutting a spline to length, but it is the same concept.

 

Now the cherry needs to be milled by butting all the groves where they need to go.  Where to put them?  Well what I did first was to put a matching groove (dado) in it near the top edge to except the splines cut earlier, or should I say my son, Joseph, did it.  I can say I did some too, LOL.  Please take note of the feather board.  A feather board is used to prevent kick back and it helps keep an even pressure on the wood which makes for uniformed depth of the dado (Groove).  A 3/4" dado was cut into the bottom edge of the Cherry.  The 3/4" dado is a blind dado, it does not show from the front or the back of the piece. I also cut a 3/8" dado in the bottom front all the way through in front of the 3/4" dado.  Will explain about that later and I hope you understand when you see the reason for it.

 

Then I had to mill the Face frame.  I decided to make Dove Tail Joints here.  I must admit that this was the first time making this joint and found it to be a challenge because I don't have the proper jig.  So I had to get creative here.  What I did first was find the center point for each dove tail.  I then measured from the center point to the end of the stock was to be milled.  I then clamped a piece of stock to the work bench to act as a guide.  I clamped the top and bottom "rail" together along with a backer board to prevent rip out and ran it over my router bit.  I repeated this each time for each Dove Tail Joint.  The next thing I had to do was to figure out how I was going to cut the "Tail" portion.  Again this was a real challenge because of the size of the pieces I was dealing with.  If you notice my router table fence has a large opening and the small pieces I was working with could have very easily been "sucked" into that gap.  My solution was to clamp a piece of scrap over the opening (see the picture to the right).  I then took a small "sled" I had made for milling small parts on my table saw and clamped the piece to it.  The piece you see in the picture was my test piece (one of many).  Once I had the fence set in the right place it did not take long at all to mill these piece.

 

I then cut some 3/4" ply-wood to size to act as a base for the drawers to ride on and dry fitted everything together.  After the dry fit I glued everything together, no mechanical fasteners.

 

I then built the drawers for each space.  Because I was not, believe it or not, perfect in making my cuts.  I cut and made each drawer for it's specific slot.  Sorry I am not going to get into all of the drawer building here.  

After each drawer was fitted to each of their slots. I milled each of the drawer faces.  To do this I used a Rotary tool with a small router bit.  I also rounded over the drawer sides to prevent injury when reaching into them.  This was also done with the Rotary tool using a simple round over bit.  It was just enough to smooth it and make it safe.

Because the Rotary tool with it's base is so small I had to come up with away to be able to stabilize the unit.  So what I did was cut a piece of scrap to the same height as the drawer sides.  I then place a piece of scrap in between the drawer and the scrap I cut down.  This way the Rotary tool was able to ride along the drawer and the scrap to provide a stable base.  See the picture to the right.

 

Well this is what it looks like at this stage all glued up.  The next stage is going to be the mirrors.  So stop in again soon and I will have hopefully, completed the project and this article.

Please send questions and comments to me at Messmanswoodworking@cox.net

Cutting the Ply

 

Putting the groove in

 

Spline dry fitted.

Sons friend Kevin cutting spline to length

My Son Joseph making a 3/8" dado

Here I am also cutting in a 3/8" dado into the      cherry

Set up for cutting the upper and lower rails

Cutting the receiving part of the Dove Tails

This is the crazy set up I came up with to cut

the tail portion of the Dove Tails

The dry fitting.  No clamps I could not believe it

The completed Dove Tail Joint

The joint between the top ply and the cherry

The set up.

Rounding over the drawer sides.