| First I cut the
Red-Oak Ply-Wood to size using
a straight edge. The next thing I had to do was decide how I was
going to connect the ply-wood to the edging. This took some thought
on my part because there are a number of ways this could have been done. Biscuits,
dowels, many different kinds of joints and splines. I choose
splines.
Since I am using splines for this
project I had to create a groove in the ply-wood to accept the spline.
To do this I used a
router bit designed to create a 3/8" grove. I did this to all 4
edges of the ply-wood. If you notice in the picture I used the fence
on the router table, you may be asking why when there is a guide bushing
on the bit? The reason is because the bit is designed to cut deeper
than I wanted it to go.
Next I had to cut the splines
themselves. I used the table saw for this. THIS IS A DANGEROUS
OPERATION I WILL NOT SHOW PICTURES OF THIS. After the splines were
cut they were test fitted to ensure a snug fit.
The next operation I did was to mill the
cherry to size. This required that it be square up first, because it
only came with one straight edge. I then cut the side pieces to width and
to length. Actually I had my son and his friend cut them to
length. The picture to the right is actually my son's friend cutting
a spline to length, but it is the same concept.
Now the cherry needs to be milled by
butting all the groves where they need to go. Where to put
them? Well what I did first was to put a matching groove (dado) in
it near the top edge to except the splines cut earlier, or should I say my
son, Joseph, did it. I can say I did some too, LOL. Please
take note of the feather board. A feather board is used to prevent
kick back and it helps keep an even pressure on the wood which makes for
uniformed depth of the dado (Groove). A 3/4" dado was cut into
the bottom edge of the Cherry. The 3/4" dado is a blind dado,
it does not show from the front or the back of the piece. I also cut a
3/8" dado in the bottom front all the way through in front of the
3/4" dado. Will explain about that later and I hope you
understand when you see the reason for it.
Then I had to mill the Face frame.
I decided to make Dove Tail Joints here. I must admit that this was
the first time making this joint and found it to be a challenge because I
don't have the proper jig. So I had to get creative here. What
I did first was find the center point for each dove tail. I then
measured from the center point to the end of the stock was to be
milled. I then clamped a piece of stock to the work bench to act as
a guide. I clamped the top and bottom "rail" together
along with a backer board to prevent rip out and ran it over my router
bit. I repeated this each time for each Dove Tail Joint. The
next thing I had to do was to figure out how I was going to cut the
"Tail" portion. Again this was a real challenge because of
the size of the pieces I was dealing with. If you notice my router
table fence has a large opening and the small pieces I was working with
could have very easily been "sucked" into that gap. My
solution was to clamp a piece of scrap over the opening (see the picture
to the right). I then took a small "sled" I had made for
milling small parts on my table saw and clamped the piece to it. The
piece you see in the picture was my test piece (one of many). Once I
had the fence set in the right place it did not take long at all to mill
these piece.
I then cut some 3/4" ply-wood to
size to act as a base for the drawers to ride on and dry fitted everything
together. After the dry fit I glued everything together, no mechanical
fasteners.
I then built the drawers for each
space. Because I was not, believe it or not, perfect in making my
cuts. I cut and made each drawer for it's specific slot. Sorry
I am not going to get into all of the drawer building here.
After each drawer was fitted to each of
their slots. I milled each of the drawer faces. To do this I used a Rotary
tool with a small router bit. I also rounded over the drawer sides
to prevent injury when reaching into them. This was also done with
the Rotary tool using a simple round over bit. It was just enough to
smooth it and make it safe.
Because the Rotary tool with it's base
is so small I had to come up with away to be able to stabilize the
unit. So what I did was cut a piece of scrap to the same height as
the drawer sides. I then place a piece of scrap in between the
drawer and the scrap I cut down. This way the Rotary tool was able
to ride along the drawer and the scrap to provide a stable base. See
the picture to the right.
Well this is what it looks like
at this stage all glued up. The next stage is going to be the
mirrors. So stop in again soon and I will have hopefully, completed
the project and this article. Please
send questions and comments to me at Messmanswoodworking@cox.net |
Cutting
the Ply
Putting
the groove in
Spline
dry fitted.
Sons
friend Kevin cutting spline to length
My
Son Joseph making a 3/8" dado
Here
I am also cutting in a 3/8" dado into
the cherry
Set
up for cutting the upper and lower rails
Cutting
the receiving part of the Dove Tails
This
is the crazy set up I came up with to cut
the tail portion of the Dove Tails
The
dry fitting. No clamps I could not believe it
The
completed Dove Tail Joint
The
joint between the top ply and the cherry
The
set up.
Rounding
over the drawer sides.

|