TEA COZY
by Mary Fonseca
When the Sons of Liberty tossed bricks of tea leaves into Boston's harbor during an18th century "Tea Party" protesting British tyranny, the aromatic plant splashed its way into American history. But, Chinese lore suggests that tea's historical connections date to 2737 B.C. when Emperor Shennong, revered as the father of Chinese medicine, sipped the first cup of this comforting beverage. "Legends tell of dry leaves from a tea bush falling into a cup of water being prepared for the monarch who had ordered all drinking water to be boiled as a hygienic precaution," says Kerri Blache, owner, with her husband Michael, of Vianne's Tea Salon & Café in historic Mandeville. "Shennong was intrigued by the refreshing aroma of the tea that brewed in his cup and quite pleased with the taste." The emperor's subjects emulated his tea drinking, and the soothing liquid soon became a daily essential in China and an integral part of the nation's societal ceremonies.
When China started trading with other nations the pleasure of a "cuppa" was introduced to Europe, eventually giving birth to Great Britain's afternoon, cream, and high teas, and to France's tea salons, affairs where conversation on topics of the day complemented refreshments offered by genteel hostesses. The Blaches adopted this Gallic custom, inviting experts in fields ranging from creative writing to Napoleon and Josephine to hold forth at monthly salons in the charming, 77-year-old cottage turned tea room where they offer an outstanding variety of teas to enjoy with lunch, high tea, and other special events.
Vianne's is one of many Louisiana tearooms that infuse tea culture into their refreshments. You can learn how to prepare a proper pot of tea, and what to serve at High Tea in Paula Jarvis' entertaining "tea etiquette" and "High Time for Tea" classes at Keegan-Cook Bed and Breakfast and Tea Room in Robeline. Most of the goodies and lunches served here are prepared by Jarvis' mother, Betty Milner. Milner is a talented cook who whips up fruit scones, Devonshire cream, and other tasty morsels savored at simple "teas for two," and the tearoom's signature "Deep South Tea," and "Keegan-Cook Marmalade Tea." "Intimate friends often gather at our 1855 Greek-Revival home for our Slumber Party Special, says Milner. "They fill up all of our rooms and we enhance their sleepover/talk fest with a full supper, plus tea, scones, and luscious Chocolate Decadent Cake," says Milner.
With vintage cookbooks such as The Cook's Guide, by Queen Victoria's chief cook Charles Elme Francatelli in hand, Sharon McCullar selected Victorian era recipes to use in the authentic British tea house she established in Shreveport's old Glenwood Drugstore 16 years ago. No trace of the 1920s pharmacy remains in the antique and boutique furnished Albert, Victorian, Cottage, and Tea Shoppe rooms where delectable teas and lunches are served on fine English china. "Our customers seem to enjoy the Glenwood's special ambiance," says McCullar, "and we are delighted to see more gentlemen in our tea room, especially fathers with their young daughters."
Meeting at the Ritz Carlton, or Windsor Court hotel, in New Orleans to enjoy tea time together is a holiday tradition for many families. Decorations in both hotels are especially beautiful during the Christmas season, enhancing elegant tea service enjoyed throughout the year. "We recently added two innovations to Le Salon's tea menus," relates Windsor Court public relations representative Cary Alden, "an International Tea Menu featuring teas, sweets, and savories from a different tea-producing country every month, and a 'Mar-tea-ni' Menu offering six flavored martinis, in addition to our selection of teas, and trays of tempting tea sandwiches and pastries."
Scones and sweets are not part of tea time at Louisiana's oldest tea room. Instead, Elise and Tom Mullen offer food for thought, and a comforting cup of tea, at Bottom of the Cup Tea Room in New Orleans' French Quarter. "We are continuing the tradition of psychic readings, fine teas, and metaphysical resources that my grandmother started when she opened this tea room in 1929," says Elise.
Feature Story Archive
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The Mistress of Chretien Point
The Schepis Museum
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Jeanerette
All photos by Mary Fonseca
© 1999 Mary Fonseca. All rights reserved.
