Composting
Improving Soil with Nature's Solution
Composting in its most basic form has been going on throughout Earth's history. Each year Nature goes through the process of natural composting.
Weather's wind, rain, snow, cold and heat break down rocks and soils and plants die and rot, beginning the process of decomposing. Soil Microorganisms feed on decaying organic materials and upon each other in the decomposition process. In a year or two, this decayed matter becomes a rich soil containing nutrients for growing plants. The color is dark and the smell is sweet. This is compost in it's most basic form.
Asphalt and steel rapidly covering the earth's surface has permanently altered this cycle. Ours is a throw-away society. Single use items, mega packaging, easier to replace than repair, an If I can afford it then I want it attitude, and an out of sight-out of mind mentality have filled landfills and polluted our Earth.
As gardeners, we have a duty to help to protect and maintain the remaining soil which we all use to produce food and grow the flowers which add beauty to our lives. For the person wanting to improve the soil and reduce solid waste, a home compost pile is truly an answer.
Benefits of Compost
Improved soils
- Soil structure is improved with the addition of Compost.
- Clay soils drain better because added organic matter in compost draws moisture away from the tiny slick particles of clay.
- Dry sandy soils become like a sponge when compost is added, holding water much better.
- The improved soil tilth and added nutrients of compost improves the soil and plants flourish.
Plant Health
- Plant health and growth are improved with compost.
- Healthy plants able to withstand insect, disease and drought.
Good for the Earth
- Recycling garden and household waste reduce amount sent to landfill.
- Water is conserved because compost added to soil decreases need for water.
- Soils with compost stimulate healthy plant root development, discouraging erosion of soils.
- Reliance on pesticides is reduced or eliminated when plants are healthy.
Composting is simple, though some sources describe it as being quite complicated. It takes a small amount of space and minimal time. Turning the compost is good exercise, though given enough time, a compost will even produce finished compost without turning, unfortunately there may be some weed seeds that survive if the pile is not turned. Turning causes the pile to heat up, which kill many seeds.
The Process of Composting
Recipe for Compost
Ingredients
50% green stuff
50% brown stuff
Directions
Alternate layers of green stuff with a layer of brown stuff in a pile or compost bin no smaller than 3x3 feet.
Turn often to aid decomposition which raises the temperature of the pile. Try to turn the actively working pile often enough in order to maintain a temperature of 120 to 140 degrees F. and add water if compost pile becomes dried out.
Notes:
Importance of Turning. Think of the familiar adage, "One bad apple spoils the whole batch", when thinking about composting. Other fruit rots when it is exposed to the first rotting fruit. When compost is turned, more surfaces are exposed to and touch previously rotted material. Turning speeds up the decomposition process, and the resulting heat produced causes and many weed seeds die, thus making the compost more valuable as a soil amendment for your garden.
Turning introduces air into the pile, and aeration helps increase the rate of breakdown. In Nature, compost may not appear to be turned, but worms do the turning. Good garden soils contain worms.
Importance of Air and Moisture. Compost microorganisms are the engines of the composting process, converting compost materials to humus as they feed. Like nearly all forms of life on Earth, microorganisms need air and water in order to thrive. The compost should feel as moist as a wrung out sponge. Too much moisture and they drown from lack of air. Lack of enough air will cause the compost to smell bad.
Particle Size. Large chunks do not break down as fast as small, so whenever possible, chop or shred yard waste or kitchen scraps.
Compost Bucket. A small covered container like a large margarine container or plastic bucket with a secure lid makes a nice compost container that is easy to fill, keep covered and carry out to the compost when full.
A Bit More about Ingredients
Grass clippings
Grass clippings should not be added to the compost in think layers. When grass clippings are too deep in the compost pile layer they sift together, eliminating air, and the pile will begin to smell badly. An inch or two of fresh green clippings should be alternated with some soil or some finished compost or other dry material like straw or small herbivore pet bedding. This reaps the ratio of green to brown balanced and keeps particles apart so that there is enough air for proper composting.
For natural lawn composting, don't catch grass clippings and improve the soil while mowing. The clippings filter to the soil and decompose on site, slowing improving the turf area.
Grass clippings used as a mulch, about 2-3 inches deep around plantings, prevent weeds, modulate temperature extremes, and improve the tilth and nutrients of the soil after they rot.
Autumn Leaves
Leaves collected in the fall should be alternated with grass clippings for a good combination. When too think of a layer of leaves is in the pile, the layer will not compost as well because it needs the green material to give it moisture and help heat it up to begin the composting process.
Garden Waste
Weeds and clippings from tidying up the garden, spent flower heads, small prunings from bushes that are soft-stemmed and no more than about 1/4 inch in diameter and in less than 1-foot lengths will compost.
Manure
Small pet wastes, EXCEPT cat and dog, are good ingredients to add to the compost and add nitrogen. Small pets like gerbils and mice have bedding that needs to be cleaned, so rather than put it in the trash,heading for the landfill, add it to the Compost pie. In our garden we raise Angora rabbits for their wool, which is spun into yarn. Their waste is an excellent ingredient for the compost and ultimately for the garden.
Methods of Composting
Composting is easy. A compost pile doesn't have to be anything fancy. You don't need a special bin or container. Organic material will eventually break down into humus, no matter how or where it is stored. Ease of mixing or turning it will facilitate completed compost.
Compost Bins
Some sort of barrel, box or bin, or fencing, however, will keep your backyard compost pile tidier, keep the neighbors happier, and discourage rodents, flies, and other animal pests.
There are dozens of commercial composters available for the home gardener today. These work well, but most are designed a gardener who has a limited amount of space. As the size of the garden increases, so should the size of your compost. The more garden there is, the more garden waste you are likely to accumulate.
A permanent compost bin is fairly easily constructed rather cheaply if you have just basic woodworking skills. You can find three very good sets of plans at the Spokane Regional Solid Waste website, solidwaste.org. A bin made of posts and fencing is also easy to make.
Separate sections for fresh ingredients, partially composted material, and finished compost makes the composting process easier. Some people like separate bins for each section. A single larger bin separated into quadrants also works well.
The Quadrant Method
Use a single bin of at least 5 or 6 foot square, divided into 4 imaginary quadrants. A is for fresh, and on a side that is easy to add ingredients to. B is partially finished and C is finished compost. D is left empty.
When ready to turn the compost, move B, the partially finished compost over to quadrant D. The bottom of B may be nearly finished and should be moved to quadrant C.
A, the new material is then moved a few forkfuls at a time to the now empty B section. Then a layer of the partially finished compost is put on the fresh. Continue until all of the Fresh material is moved to quadrant B.
Binless Composting
A less formal binless method of composting is the Compost Heap. An out of the way corner with enough space to it to allows you to periodically turn your pile. The disadvantage of not surrounding the heap with some sort of sturcture is that dogs and wild animals can get into it.
Another binless method is the Garden Trench Method that I used for many years. In the vegetable garden I plant in garden bed about 18-30 inches wide. Not all areas of the garden are producing all the time.
- Dig a trench 18-24 inches wide, two feet or longer in length and about 12 to 18 inches deep.
- Leave the pile of excavated soil beside the hole.
- Fill with all garden and kitchen waste.
- After each addition, scoop a little of the reserved soil over to lightly cover it.
When the trench is filled, the top layer of soil should be at least two or three inches deep, then plant. Generally the pit took a while to fill up. When the roots of the plants reach downward, the ingredients will be already nearly decomposed. If there is any doubt, add a little fertilizer. The reason to add fertilizer is that just as we use calories to digest our food, some nitrogen is used in the composting process.
