Joe's Rock -- West Wrentham, MA| less than 30 minutes north of providence, just over the MA line in wrentham is a short cliff overlooking a cranberry bog. It's got a number of bolted routes. there's parking and an established trail around the bog. |  | Directions: located off of Route 121 in west wrentham. From Providence take I-95 or route-146 to I-295. Follow I-295 to the Diamond Hill Road Exit, #10. take Diamond Hill Road, RI-114, North 4.1 miles. Take a slight right onto Wrentham Rd, RI-121. After 1 mile you'll cross into MA and you'll be on Cumberland Road. Continue for around .5 miles and the parking will be on your left. If you miss it, you'll hit I-495 so turn around. |  | Reference: Route names and ratings based in part on RI Climbing, Brian Phillips | | |
Face: Joe's Rock - Left face | this is the face farthest from the parking lot. If you want to top rope you'll have to downclimb to the lip and find the rap bolts or use some very long slings. |  |
Route information | Name | Rating | Description | Height | Bolted | Type |
|---|
| Unnamed | 5.9- | At the far end of the wall is a small roof problem. either pull a heel hook or end up straddling the flake that forms the roof. An awkward climb at best. | 20 | N | Face/roof | | It's a Bargin | 5.9 | It's a Bargin and No Bargin both start left of Cool Route. This is the left most route and goes straight up and over the roof.. | ?? | Y | Roof | | No Bargin | 5.10b | Use the same start as It's a Bargin but go further right at the roof. The roof curves in on the right side and there's a horizontal crack that can take a cam before you pull up on the roof. | ?? | Y | Face/Roof | | Cool Route | 5.8 | This is the third bolted route from the left. It goes up a shallow bowl to a vertical crack on the right. Hope the cracks dry and follow it up under the roof, traverse left and top-out just left of No Bargin. The rap bolts will be to your right after you top out. | ?? | Y | Face | | Sister of Mercy | 5.11b | A zig-zagging route. A balancy start until you clip the first bolt. From there go right to the main wall not straight up over the bulge. follow the thin seam that angles up and left and then face climb straight up following the bolts. | ?? | Y | Face | | Mother Superior | 5.12b | I've never seen this one done, so you're on your own. Follow the bolts up this overhanging face! | ?? | Y | Face |
Face: Joe's Rock - Right Face | In the middle of the wall is a sloping walk-up called "the wave" to the right of this are a couple of interesting routes. There are a couple of bolts near the top that you can use to set a top-rope. |  |
Route information | Name | Rating | Description | Height | Bolted | Type |
|---|
| It's all buckets | 5.8 | Short climb just to the right of the wave | 15 | N | Face | | Standard Route | 5.8 | Follow the obvious notch in the middle of the face then follow the bolts. | ?? | Y | Face | | Smokey Joe's Cafe | 5.10b | From the start of the Standard Route, go up the face to your right and do the roof problem. | ?? | N | Face/Roof | | Unnamed | 5.5 | Continue around to the right from Standard Route and climb the right side of the crag topping out at the same point as the Standard Route. | | N | |
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