Newport Quarry -- Newport, RI

this is the place i first climbed <with adults that is -- thanks Jim, Mike and gang. earlier than that I have the faintest memories of camping at joshua tree as a wee lad of 6 or 7 and doing some scrambling!>. the top of the cliff had been bolted to allow fast top-rope set up, important for those wednesday after work sessions, but last time I was there some of the hangers had been taken. anchors can be set up with a mix of bolts and passive pro, if you want to use the tree's bring some long slings

Directions:

From Providence you need to get to Newport. You can either take I-95 to Route 4 and cross the Jamestown and Newport Bridge, or take I-195 east to Fall River and then take Route 24 down to Newport. From Newport, you'll want to get downtown to Thames Street. Follow Thames Street past all the resturants and antique shops to Wellington Ave. Take a right on Wellington and follow it until it turns inland. Go past Harrison Ave and then take a left on Wickham Rd. Park at Rogers High School on the left before you get to Hazard Rd. Cross the street and enter the woods at Ballard Park. You'll want to go south-east to hit the quarry. You can climb down on the east side of the wall

Reference:

Face: Newport Quarry

Route information

NameRatingDescriptionHeightBoltedType
Unknown5.3?Left side of wall up past railroad spike.Nface
Unknown5.6?the second set of routes follows a line directly behind the small tree with two variations possible, one to the right of the block and one to the left (5.6-7ish)Nface
Unknown5.7?Continuing to the right of that tree you can start up the obvious ledge running to the right and then head left to top out around the same spot as the others Nface
Unknown5.10?the local test piece, well it was for the group i was with in '97, goes up the right side of the blueish flake in the middle of the photo. i seem to recall the crux being just above that as you transition from a wicked heel-hooking lieback to a crack? never did it so it's pretty weak beta.... Nface/crack

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