Grass Lawn Guide
Lawn Watering The following is a general watering guide.  Depending on weather, soil, elevation, type of grass, and fertilization conditions  exact watering can greatly differ from one yard to the next.
Established Lawn Watering Established lawns - Water for approximately 30 - 60 minutes or more. above 90° 2 to 3 times a week.                 below 90° water every 3 to 10 days.
New Seed or Sod Watering First week- water 3 - 4 times a day everyday for 3 - 8 minutes between the hours of 6:00am and 4:30pm. Second week- 2 times a day everyday for 10 -15 minutes between the hours of 6:00am and 1:00pm. Third week- once a day everyday for 20-30 minutes, between the hours of 5:00am and 8:00am. Fourth week- once every other day for approximately 30 minutes between the hours of 5:00am and 8:00am. Continue watering less frequently until stress shows and then back up one day until there are no signs of stress, see tips for stress signs.
Mowing When mowing your lawn, to give it that golf course look use a reel mower instead of a rotary. The first time you mow your lawn it should be done just before the first 2 weeks of installation are up. Try keeping your mower blades sharp and mow no more than the top 3rd of your grass height.
Tips When watering seed, keep the seed damp until germination and avoid causing the water to pool. Once your lawn is established (rooted for about 30 days) water deeply and less frequently instead of lightly and more frequently.  If a bluish tint occurs or an indention remains from footprints the lawn is stressed from under watering and should be watered more often.  If soil is extremely soft, mushy, or contains dichondra, moss, mushrooms, or smells musty it is being watered too often. When fertilizing your established lawn, use Richards "Super Lawn Food Plus Iron" to keep it green. Use Richards "Organic Worm" to unlock hard soil deposits and break down animal damage to your lawn; it will also speed up seed germination.
Over Seeding WARNING: If you do not over seed be sure to deep water at least once a month to prevent damage.  Unfortunately, all Bermuda type lawns are considered summer grasses, which are dormant in the winter. Generally turning brown or resembling dead grass. To avoid this you can either dye the grass or over seed. When over seeding you are given different choices of grass to choose from. If you are if you are over seeding a Sod/Tif a.k.a. Hybrid Bermuda you must use either Perennial Rye or Poa Trivialis. You cannot use Annual Rye, it tends to fight the Hybrid Bermuda and will cause more problems in the long run. Over seeding should be done around October 18th or when nighttime temperature is below 85 degrees. If you seed before that time you run the risk of high temperatures burning up your grass before it has a chance to start.
Seeding Instructions First - Scalp your current lawn.                                                      Second - Spread your seed on top of scalped lawn or bare ground.       Third - Spread Richard's Lawn Starter Fertilizer on top of your seed.      Fourth - Lightly spread a thin layer of top cover (Mulch or Manure). Use Manure and Richard's Organic Worm if it's really cold out.
Seed Coverage Annual Rye= 15 pounds per thousand square feet Bermuda = 3 - 5 pounds per thousand square feet    Fescue = 15 pounds per thousand square feet              Perennial Rye = 15 pounds per thousand square feet   Poa Trivialis = 3 - 5 pounds per thousand square feet
Fake Grass Lawn No mowing. No cutting. No trimming. No over seeding. No watering. No fertilizing. Sun or shade, not a problem. Virtually maintenance free. Fake grass installed by Richard's Garden Center.
Weed & Insect Control for your Lawn
Fertilizer & Broadleaf Weed Control	Nut Grass Control	General Insect Control	Grub Control	Organic Insect Control	Spray Activator, Wetting Agent

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