| Here's what I did -
Disassembly procedure... |
| Step |
Description |
Ref # |
Photo # |
| Place protective covering on driver's side carpet/floormat. |
There are grease-coated items in the pedal assembly, and you
run a good chance of dropping a few during this procedure. I used an
old towel. |
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| Remove the left-center console trim panel |
Remove one philips screw, then slide panel toward rear of
car and remove. |
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| Remove Foot Controls trim panel |
Remove five or six philips screws from the rear and
left edges, then two cam-lok connectors from the forward edge.
Carefully work the panel out from under the dashboard. Disconnect the
two harness wires leading to the chime, and remove the panel. |
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| Remove main pivot retainer "clamp" |
Refer to photo #4. Insert a small-ish allen wrench or
other suitable tool into the retainer (make sure you are working on the
correct end of the retainer - the one with the locking tab) and gently pry
upward. The locking tab will pop up and rest on the pivot shaft.
Then simply slide the retainer off the shaft in the direction shown in the
photo. Note that the main pivot shaft is part of the mounting block and
stays in the car during this procedure. |
5 |
4 |
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| Remove slave cylinder input shaft pivot retainer "clamp" |
This retainer is identical to the one removed in the
previous step. Remove it in exactly the same manner. |
5 |
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| Remove clutch cylinder connector pin |
The clutch pedal is attached to the slave cylinder via a
tie-rod-end type fitting (see photo #6). A metal shaft or pin runs
thru a hole on either side of the clutch pedal arm and thru the hole in the
end of the slave cylinder input shaft, trapping the input shaft in a
"pocket" molded into the pedal arm (note this pin is NOT shown in the
diagram below). This pin is the biggest PITA of this whole procedure.
It slides into the clutch arm from right to left. The right end of the
pin is larger in diameter, and serves as the "land" for the clutch pedal's
cruise control disengagement switch (the import of this little tidbit will
become apparent later). To the immediate right of the clutch pedal arm
is a bracket for the CC disengagement switches (somewhat visible in photo
#2). At first glance it would appear this bracket prevents the removal
of this pin, since it's too close to the pedal, and the pin is too long to
slide out before interfering with it. But if you look/feel closely,
you'll find that this bracket contains an access hole which is exactly the
right size for the pivot pin to pass thru. Move the clutch pedal up
and down slightly while pushing on the LEFT side of the pin with your finger
or a small screwdriver. Once the pin lines up with the hole, it will
slide right out (and land on your carpet if you didn't pay attention in step
1). |
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| Remove Return Spring lower mount |
The return spring/piston attaches to the mounting block and
the clutch pedal arm using two identical metal pins. These pins are
retained by standard E-circlips. Once again the pins are installed
from right to left. Note that the diagram below is extremely
misleading as to the position of this assembly. Refer to photos for a
better idea of where it really is. Locate and remove the circlip for
the retainer pin on the clutch pedal arm (lower mount). Do NOT let the
circlip spring off into the car - you'll spend hours looking for it.
Now slide the pivot pin out of the clutch pedal. Note: the return spring
will be under (minor) pressure. Pull the pedal out to relieve some of
this pressure and make it easier to remove the pin. THERE IS NOT
ENOUGH SPRING TENSION HERE TO CAUSE INJURY. |
2, 5 |
5 |
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| Remove lower portion of return spring/piston |
Note: this assembly has a good amount of grease on it, and
will have collected some dirt over time - it's messy. Also, the
diagram below is not accurate in its depiction of the return spring assembly
- some parts are not shown. The return spring sits down in a pocket in the
clutch pedal arm, and is now being held there by its own spring tension.
Using a small flat-blade screwdriver and working from the rear of the pedal
arm, gently pry the lower piston half (#9 in diagram) out of this pocket.
The return spring will pivot on its upper mount toward the firewall and fall
apart (right onto your carpet if you didn't pay attention to step #1).
Remove two springs, two nylon bushings, and the lower piston half.
This leaves the upper piston half (#9) hanging from its mount in the car.
Don't worry right now about how the parts go together - it's easy to get
this assembly back together in proper sequence. |
2, 5, 9, 10 |
3 |
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| Remove clutch pedal |
The clutch pedal slides off the main pivot shaft from right
to left. Gently slide the pedal out, moving it up and down as
necessary to gain required clearance. Note: don't rush this step - be
aware of where your hands are and what they are pressing against. The
plungers on the CC disengagement and starter lockout switches are pretty
delicate, and look like they could be easily broken. |
1 |
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| Remove return spring upper piston half and mounting pin |
Snap the circlip off the left end of the retainer pin (again
being careful to keep it from spring off into space) and slide the pin out
to the right. Remove the upper piston half. |
9 |
3, 8 |
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| DISASSEMBLY COMPLETE |
Refer to photo #9 on page 2. Make sure you have all
the parts shown, and move to a clean work area. Note the explicative in
this photo. There should be two bushings, but as I was removing the
pedal, the outer bushing popped out and went down between the deadpedal trim
panel and the body of the car. Hence the explicative - I really hate
taking the deadpedal panel out, but out it came.
Clean and inspect all the parts. I replaced both main bushings and
the entire return spring assembly (not the mounting pins) with new pieces.
Remove the rubber pad from the pedal and place it in a bowl of hot soppy
water. Let it soak for awhile - you'll be amazed at how much dirt you
get out of it, and how much better it will look when clean. |
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9 |
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See Page two for assembly procedure |
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Photo #1
(ok, so this is technically a diagram)
This is an exploded view of the pedal
assembly, courtesy of BMW's TIS. Used without permission, I hope they
won't mind.
The numbers in this diagram are referenced in the
"What I did" table above. |
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Photo #2 Reference photo to aid in locating
components in the vicinity of the pedal. Since I was only interested
in replacing the main pivot bushings and return spring, I disassembled only
the bare minimum of parts.
Place a protective
covering over your carpet/floormat! Some parts are greasy, and you
WILL drop them on the carpet!
First, remove the center console trim panel (one
philips screw and slide toward rear of car), and the "Foot controls trim
panel" (five philips screws, and two cam locks, be careful to disconnect the
chime harnesses when removing) from beneath the dash.
I did not intend to remove the dead pedal panel,
but as usual my luck required this to come out later in the process (more on
that later). |
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Photo #3 Another reference pic, this time
showing the return spring/piston assembly. There are two metal dowels
which hold this assembly in place between the pedal bracket and the pedal
arm.
These dowels are retained by standard E-circlips,
and are installed from inside-to-outside of the vehicle - in other words,
the retainers are on the left side, and they slide out to the right. |
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Photo #4 First, locate the main pivot retaining clip and remove it by a) inserting a
small allen wrench into the area show and gently prying the locking latch up
- it doesn't take much. once the latch is "up", slide the retainer off
as shown (obviously, the direction you slide yours will be dependent on its
orientation of the shaft).
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Photo #5
This shot is from the outside side of
the clutch pedal (opposite the one above) and shows the circlip holding the
lower mounting dowel. |
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Photo #6 In this photo
the clutch pedal has been removed, showing the main pivot shaft. Also
in this pic is the connector for the clutch slave cylinder input (the thing
I keep referring to as the "tie-rod-end-type thing). |
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Photo #7 Different perspective showing the main
pedal pivot shaft (mounted to the pedal mounting block) and the clutch slave
cylinder input shaft. |
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Photo #8 Upper return spring and mount. Be
careful when removing the circlip - you don't want to loose it under the
dashboard. |