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San Diego Rock
Climbing Basics
The Rock
San Diego
rock is primarily granite, but can vary greatly in compostion.
Weather
San Diego
County is ideal for rock climbing. Temperatures are relatively
mild year round, and rain fall approaches desert like conditions.
The rainy season is January thru March, but with an average annual
rain fall under 10 inches even the rainy season is usually dry
compared to many other parts of the country. Summer temperatures
can sometimes approach 100* at areas farthest from the coast,
but these hot spells don't last long.
Bouldering
This
is San Diego County's specialty. At last count, there were over
25 million boulders, and more keep springing up daily. Santee
Boulders, Mt. Woodson, and Dixon Lake are the most popular easy
to get to areas. Culp Valley and McCain Valley are two great
bouldering spots if you don't mind driving a ways. Actually,
bouldering exists at practically all the known local climbing
areas, and at many more "secret spots" that don't get
published.
Top Roping
Top roping
can be done at almost every climbing area in San Diego. While
many fixed bolt anchors exist, some climbs may require gear anchors.
The most popular top rope areas are Mission Gorge, Mt. Woodson,
and Dixon Lake.
Sport Climbing
San Diego
consists of mostly vertical to near vertical sport climbing,
but an occasional "steep" route can be found also.
Mission Gorge, Valley of the Moon, and Corte Madera are the local
sport climbing spots. Crest, a once favorite sport climbing area
of the early 1990's ran into bolt smashing and hostility by the
neighbors, and not much remains. Poway Crags, a once popular
sport area, is currently closed. Otay, a small sport climbing
area in south county, may be closed.
Mixed Climbing
Mission
Gorge has many routes that appear to be sport routes, because
they are bolted, but they require placing one or more pieces
of trad gear in addition to clipping bolts. Before you start
up a bolted route, make sure you know whether it is "sport"
or "mixed".
Trad Climbing
Trad
climbing (gear leading) exists at many of San Diego's climbing
areas. Mission Gorge has numerous challenging "old school"
leads. Many of the cracks at Mt. Woodson are long enough to lead.
Corte Madera and El Cajon Mt. hold several multi-pitch trad routes.
Multi-Pitch
Climbing
Corte
Madera offers 3 to 4 pitch trad and bolted routes. El Cajon Mt.
also offers multi pitch sport and trad climbing from 2 to 5 pitches.
Most locals who want a multi pitch Trad experience make the 2
hour drive north to Tahquitz whenever the bug hits them.
San Diego
Climbing Guides
The following
guidebooks are "sometimes" available in local climbing
stores.
Southern California
Bouldering Guide, by Craig Fry
(good chapters on Mt. Woodson, Santee
Boulders, & Magnolia Boulders)
San Diego County
Climbing Guide, by Dave Kennedy
(the only guide that attempts to cover
all San Diego climbing)
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