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Descanso Wall
 The
Descanso Wall offers challenging
face and crack climbing on good quality granite. Most routes
are 110 - 120 ft long, and are serious run out leads. A
60 meter rope or really long slings are recommended if you plan
to toprope. There are 5 or 6 sets of bolt anchors on top, and
several rap anchors half way up the face. The anchors on top
are not rap stations, but the walk off is not difficult. Satellite
rocks, that surround the main wall, offer good bouldering and
toprope possibilities for those adventurous enough to brave the
often mandatory bushwacking. Just left and above the main wall
is an overhanging hand to offwidth crack called "King Swing"
that should not be missed.
There has been some recent disagreement
between the original developer of this area and subsequent route
bolters. Many of the original lines were bolted over in an attempt
to turn the wall into a sport climbing area. Most of these new
bolts were then chopped by the original route setter. Never the
less, this is a great place to check out.
Access Issue : None known
How to get there : Drive east on I-8,
well past Alpine, and exit on Hwy 79. Head north on Hwy 79 about
3/4 mi. and turn left on Wildwood Glen Lane. Drive another 1
mile or so until you see a faint trail heading up to the wall.
A 15 minute hike gets you to the main wall. Descanso Wall is
plainly visible from I-8 just before you exit on hwy 79.
Types of Climbing : Serious, run out
face climbing, several good "trad" crack routes,
Toprope with long rope or slings, Bouldering, couple Sport Climbs.
Caution : Many of the original lead bolts are small 1/4
with bad Leeper hangers. The newer bolts are fine. All anchor
bolts are new 3/8.
Number of Routes : 20 or so lead climbs
on the main wall, not all in a guide book. Dozens of boulder
and toprope problems, none of which are in a guide book, and
often require bushwacking.
Ratings :
5.7 to 5.12a
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Recommended Guide : |
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San Diego County Climbing Guide
by Dave Kennedy |
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