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Eagle
Peak
Eagle Peak sits in the Cleveland National
Forest and is one of the most sensitive raptor nesting areas
in San Diego County. For decades, climbers respected this sensitive
area as a place to be preserved for wildlife. In 2004, a group
of rap bolters began a continuous effort to turn this pristine
backcountry area into a sport climbing mecca. At least 100 bolted
pitches have been put up, mostly in the 5.10 and harder range.
Access Issue : In 2004, a group of rap bolters descended upon
Eagle Peak, running their power drills continuously right through
the nesting season. Local bird and wildlife groups took offense,
and began an effort to have the Forest Service institute a wide
ranging seasonal climbing ban during raptor nesting season. The
local climbing community, lead by the very rap bolters who started
the controversy, waged a strong write-in campaign that convinced
the Forest Service to complete an environmental impact study
before instituting the seasonal closure. At present this is an
ongoing issue, as the Forest Service has not yet completed its
study.
How to get there
:
Types of Climbing
: Single & multi pitch sport
climbing, some trad climbing
Number of Routes
: 100 +-
Ratings :
mostly 5.10 and higher
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