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Mission
Gorge
Probably San Diego's oldest, and arguably
most popular climbing area, Mission Gorge offers something for
just about every climber. First day beginners will find routes
they can do, and 5.13 climbers will find 5.11 and 5.12 routes
they can't. There are challenging cracks for the traditionalist
and technical face routes for the sport climber. Aid climbers
will find routes on which to practice their craft (Please, no
hammers on established free routes). Even boulderers will find
a few problems to keep them busy.
Access Issue : Mission Gorge lies within Mission Trails Regional
Park. The park has seen an increased emphasis on habitat protection
and restoration in recent years. Please stay on the trails, obey
park rules, and climb with an awareness for the environment.
1. The west face of Kwaay Paay Peak is open to
climbing but stay on the trails. (this includes the Main Wall,
Limbo, and Middle Earth).
2. All other hillsides in the park are currently
closed to climbing.
3. The Quarry along the river has been closed since
1999.
4. All boulders on the river side of Father Junipero
Tr. except "Gray Giant" have been closed to climbing
since June 2000.
How to get there : From I-8, drive
northeast on Mission Gorge Rd. several miles until you see the
Mission Trails Regional Park entrance at Father Junipero Serra
Trail (Road).Turn into the park on this road. Past the gate it
becomes one way only. There are two trails leading to the climbs,
one about 1/4 mile past the gate, and a second about 1/2 mile
past the gate.
Types of Climbing : Trad Lead, Sport
Lead, Mixed Lead, Toprope, some Bouldering, some Aid Practice
(Note: just because you see bolts, don't assume a route is a
sport climb. Many bolted routes at the Gorge require some trad
gear, i.e. mixed lead). Most routes at the Gorge are 40 to 80
ft in length.
Number of Routes : 185 leads and topropes,
A handful of boulders for those wishing to go light.
Ratings :
5.1 to 5.12+
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