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Valley
of the Moon
Valley of the Moon offers "Joshua Tree-like"
climbing right in our own back yard. If you were blind folded
and taken to this area, you would swear you were in some remote
part of Josh. The rock is identical, varying from excellent to
poor quality depending on the climb, and possessing the same
excellent friction and weathering patterns.
Much of Valley of the Moon
is located within a Federally designated wilderness area. While
climbing is allowed, new bolt installation is either prohibited
or very restricted. If contemplating placing new bolts or replacing
old ones, be sure to contact BLM personnel for the exact wilderness
boundaries and the regulations on bolting within the wilderness.
This mildly remote section
of BLM land offers the added plus of being extremely close to
the Mexico border, and is a favorite entry point for those smuggling
illegal aliens. Desperate people sometimes do desperate things,
so keep this in mind when climbing here. Additionally, although
guns are banned in the area, it is sometimes used as a shooting
range by our more frontier like U.S. citizens, after they have
downed a bottle or two of medicinal elixir.
Valley of the Moon is a
beautiful back country part of San Diego, but given the added
elements, some care should be taken when climbing there.
Access Issue : None known, but bolting may be prohibited in portions
of this area, check with BLM.
How to get there
: On Interstate 8, drive about an
hour east of El Cajon to the In-Ko-Pa Park Road. Exit here. Go
right (south) for 100 ft or so to the Frontage Road which is
Old Highway 80. Turn right on this road and continue for just
under .25 mile to an unmarked dirt road on your left. There should
be a BLM bulletin board here that mentions climbing, or at least
the rules of the area. Almost immediately you encounter a fork
in the dirt road. Head left (southeast). Soon you will be going
up hill. Follow this road for a couple miles or so until you
come to a prominent saddle (major dip in the road). There, you
turn left on another dirt road that heads down and may require
4 wheel drive, or at least very high clearance. Most people with
2 wheel drive park here and walk 45 minutes or so in to the climbing.
This rough road opens onto a broad flat valley about 3.5 miles
from the freeway. At this point you still have a mile or more
to the climbs and it can get a bit confusing. We recommend going
with someone who has been there before.
Types of Climbing
: Sport Lead, some Trad Lead, Toprope
(lead first), Bouldering
Number of Routes
: 40 or more known routes, both sport
and trad.
Ratings :
5.7 to 5.12
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Recommended Guide : |
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San Diego County Climbing Guide
by Dave Kennedy |
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