This file was developed for the newsgroups rec.crafts.beads and alt.beadworld. Copyright 1996 by A. OakGrove, Cindie Edmunds, Simone Oettinger. Portions of this file may have other copyrights in place, too.
DELICAS
Questions in this section cover subjects which include:
Bead count; color durability; combining hex cuts and delicas; importing.
TECHNIQUE
Finishing loomwork; peyote stitch; using glue; drilling semi-precious beads; bead stringing; antiquing silver.
SOURCES
Where to find colored nymo, crystal channels and more.
MISCELLANEOUS
Copyrighted designs; wholesale defined.
DELICAS
Q: How do I figure my Delica bead count?
A: Figure your bead count like this: 5 grams of 11/0 Delicas equals approximately 1082 beads, which will cover a 4"X4" square. Regular 11/0 Czech seed beads measure about 11 beads to an inch, but Delicas work up closer to a 14/0 seed bead (14 beads per inch).
Eve/Seaside Traders
Q: I have seen occasional postings from beaders wondering (or complaining) about the color durability of various kinds of seed beads. As an importer of Miyuki Delica beads, I thought it appropriate to request information from Miyuki on this subject. I found their response very interesting and hope it will be of use to you as well.
A: Notes:
1) The information from Miyuki dealt with three possible ways in which the colors of Delicas may change. They are:
a) colors which might change and/or fade due to bright sun or deterioration with time;
b) colors rubbing off from friction or contact with skin acid;
c) colors which might alter or fade from dry cleaning.
2) They emphasized that the treatment and use of certain beads ultimately determines how the colors will last. For example, those beads marked on the chart below as being subject to fading or color changing are, they state, not particularly likely to do so. However, in an abnormal situation, fading is possible or even likely. So if you make an amulet purse using the beads which Miyuki indicates might fade, and it is displayed in a sunny store window, it probably will begin to fade sooner or later.
Similarly, the beads marked as subject to dry cleaning changes will generally be okay as long as the dry cleaning solution is a weak one. But if it is too strong, the coatings on silver-lined and dyed beads will be lost.
Finally, colors which Miyuki says may rub off might last years in a woven hanging but be totally inappropriate for a bracelet.
3) Any Delicas not on the list below are tough and resistant to a, b and c.
4) Please note the following special cautions:
a) DB-21 is nickel-plated. If "used roughly" the plating may rub off.
b) DB-35 is galvanized on the surface of the bead. This finish is not very resistant to friction or skin acid.
c) DB-410 through DB-432: These beads are dyed on the surface of DB-35 and subject to the same problems as DB-35.
Here is the key for the listings below:
A= color might fade or change
B= color might rub off
C= color might change or fade with dry cleaning
DB-21 A,B DB-31 B DB-32 B DB-34 B DB-35 A,B,C DB-36 A,B DB-37 A DB-38 B DB-41 thru DB-48 A DB-51 thru DB-88 C DB-181 thru DB-191 A DB-221 A DB-233 thru DB-296 C DB-331 B DB-334 B DB-336 A,B DB-410 thru DB-432 A,B,C DB-451 thru DB-465 B,C DB-501 & 502 B DB-601 thru DB-613 A,C DB-651 thru DB-663 C DB-681 thru DB-697 A,C DB-1301 thru DB-1319 C DB-1335 thru DB-1347 A,C DB-1363, 1371, 1376, 1379 C DB-771 thru DB-792 CHex cut Delicas use the same codes and react in the same fashion as their tube-shaped counterparts.
Copyright 1996 by Barry Kahn Caravan Beads
Q: How do size 11/0 Delica beads compare to Japanese size 15?
A: Size 11/0 Delica beads are the same diameter and hole size as size 15/0 Japanese round beads, but are longer and more cylindrical.
Cindy's Birds and Beads
Q: I'm thinking of making an amulet bag using both hex and round Delica beads. Will this work? Are all Delicas the same size regardless of cut?
A: I have found that Delicas are actually somewhat variable in size. For instance, a gilt-lined white Delica will have a thicker wall than a transparent white one. I thought this was an optical illusion, but not so. Yes, you can mix Delicas, but it will be different from a more uniform product. It depends on how critical exactness in size is to you. I have no problems using mixed Delicas, but you do get a somewhat more "slubby" or nobby texture. If you're looking for that pure, smooth fabric look, you may not get it. And you still have to cull Delicas, although they're more uniform than most seed beads.
However, I love the differentiation in color and tone you get from mixing cuts, cylinders, mattes and shiny beads and the slight variation in weave is a small price to pay. As I write, I realize that I approach this from the tubular peyote side it may pose more of a problem for loomed work where it would be harder to compensate for size differences because you can't control the tension of each stitch.
Amy Karash Brennan Beaded Jewelry
Q: I use a lot of Delica beads and I was wondering if I would be better off importing them directly from Japan?
A: I'm in the bead business and I can tell you that unless your ready to do major importing, non of the Japanese bead manufacturers will deal with you. There are several problems:
1) Your order must be prepaid. If there is a change in the exchange rate in their favor, you have to cough up more cash.
2) There are large minimum order requirements. You can't order a half a kilo of a particular size/style of a bead. Unless they have changed it, the minimum is several kilos per size/style.
3) Shipping and customs on small orders will eat up any savings you think you'll have. Larger companies like General Bead bring in huge crates of beads. They have customs brokers on retainer to keep their expenses down for them.
4) There are a lot of additional expenses, including phoning and faxing information back and forth. It also takes a long time to get your goods cleared through customs.
I own a bead store and we sell about 150 kilos of Japanese seed beads a year.
It's still not worth it for us to bring them in ourselves.
(Sorry, we lost the name of this contributor)
TECHNIQUE
TECHNIQUE - FINISHING LOOMWORK
Q: Someone on this newsgroup gave me a nice way to finish up loomed work for a barrette. Now I'm making bracelets and I realize I cannot tape up the warp threads and fold them underneath, there is no underneath! Is there a smart way to work them back into the work? I've seen causal bracelets in which the warp threads are simply braided together - you tie the ends around your arm to fasten it, but I'd like a nicer solution.
A: Try making the bracelet using the square stitch. It looks like loom work, but it's actually had woven (1 thread all along).
You can weave the warp threads back into the loomed piece after you cut it off of the loom (make sure you leave enough thread on each end to do this). Each thread needs to be woven separately and it is time consuming, but the results are worth it.
Thread your needle with one of the warp threads and, skipping the closest loomed row, bring the needle and thread up through the loomed piece, going BETWEEN the two weft threads. Note: each thread should be woven up its own row. After you've gone between 4 or 5 weft threads, bring the needle through a couple of the beads in the loomed piece and tie it off. Seal the knot with clear nail polish or some other sealer, go through another few beads to hide the knot and cut your thread off. Repeat this process with each of the warp threads.
Q: What is the easiest way to learn to make a peyote stitch tube?
A: Everyone has trouble learning peyote stitch! Many give up. Don't - it's worth the effort to learn.
I suggest you work with large beads (such as "E", size 6/0). Make a round of just three beads. Use three different colors, "a", "b" & "c".
1) String your three colors of beads onto your needle and thread and form a ring by passing the needle through bead "a". Leave at least a six inch end hanging on for finishing later.
2) Pick up an "a" bead and pass the needle back through the "a" bead in the ring (going in a counterclockwise direction). Pick up a "b" bead in the ring and pass the needle through the "b" bead in the ring. Pick up a "c" bead and pass the needle through the "c" bead in the ring.
3) Continue by picking up another "a" bead and passing the needle through the "a" bead of the row just formed. Pick up another "b" bead and pass the needle through the "b" bead of the row just formed. Pick up a "c" bead and pass the needle through the "c" bead of the row just formed.
4) Repeat this process until your tube is the length you want it. The colors will spiral to form a rope of beads. The hardest part is keeping your place on the first three rows. You must pay close attention to what row you're on. Rip out and start over if you can't see the spirals by the fifth row. Be persistent you'll get it. Peyote stitch is a wonderful technique when mastered.
TECHNIQUE - GLUING
Q: I recently bought some 8mm spherical amethyst beads and am interested in securing them to 8mm earring posts, so they can be worn as studs. Is there a special glue or cement I should use in securing the beads to the post, or will plain crazy glue work?
A: When I worked at a professional jewelry repair shop, we used super glue for both pearls on cup earrings and partially drilled pearls with cup attachments.
R. Schack
A: Epoxy is still the best, but be sure to clean the beads and cups with steam or acetone. Super glue will hold for a while truth is, this is not a secure mount no matter what you use.
A: The E6000 glue is VERY good. I worked for years with a lot of glues, starting with crazy glue, finding that it held only for so long, then cracked and broke away. I have tried epoxy and didn't care for it because it yellowed eventually. I finally found the E6000 after about ten years of doing bead work.
Kiowa Rose
TECHNIQUE - DRILLING
Q: I recently inherited a lot of semi-precious beads and many of them have incomplete holes. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get a drill that has a fine enough bit to finish these holes without destroying the beads?
A: I tried enlarging holes in semi-precious beads a few times. (Reamers won't work, by the way, except perhaps on very soft stones like turquoise.) It required a flex-shaft with a little flex-shaft drill stand, diamond coated bits and a rig to water cool the operation. If you overheat the bits the diamond coating comes off, so it's a gentle back and forth operation. I managed to succeed about 30% of the time and quickly decided that it was not my cup of tea, mainly because the bits are VERY small, easy to break and expensive.
Barry Kahn Caravan Beads
BEAD STRINGING - THREADS
Q: I have heard that there is a thread called "silamide" . From what I've heard, this may be what I want to use for bead stringing. Has anyone used this thread?
A: Silamide is a twisted synthetic fiber used by tailors and upholsterers. It's waxed and quite strong. However, in my relentless pursuit of the perfect string material, I've given up on silamide because sharp bugle bead edges slice right through it. If your beads don't have sharp edges, though, this probably won't be a problem. Lately, my favorite thread is something called "Tuff Cord", which I've only seen at Accents Bead Store in Bethesda. It's strong, thin and doesn't twist too much.
You might also try "C-thru". It's a woven, translucent material which seems very strong and comes in a variety of thicknesses. It turned out to be too thick for my purposes, but if you're only going through each bead once it might be okay.
I've not enjoyed working with Kevlar. It's a parallel-structured fiber and seems to separate very easily. Waxing would probably help, but it has an extremely light body which I find annoying to handle.
And of course, there's always "Beadalon" if you want to be "belt and suspenders" secure. It's expensive, though.
Amy Karash Brennan
TECHNIQUE - ANITQUING
Q: What's the best way to add an antique finish to silver chains? Will Clorox work?
A: Clorox doesn't really work to make the chain black, but it's a good first step to remove the lacquer that's used to keep the silver from tarnishing. After the Clorox step, I use Liver of Sulfur to "blacken" the chain. That works pretty well.
Lara
A: There's a solution that will do the antiquing for you, called "Pink Antique". It's about $5 or $6 for a 4 ounce bottle and lasts a long time. You can use it on sterling silver and gold filled chains and I've used it on some plated stuff, too. All you do is dit it in the solution for about 5 seconds and it turns antique-looking right away.
Q: I'm going to be making sterling silver jewelry. I need to know how I can clean the silver and keep it from tarnishing. I'm looking for something that will last at least a month. The solution will have to be okay for beads also.
A: A good solution, which I use on my silver jewelry that I wear everyday, is called Tarni-Shield from 3M. It's a polish/protectant that seals and lasts for quite a while, ever when the jewelry is worn daily.
A: I like Renaissance Wax from Light Impressions. It's easy to apply, invisible and protects from tarnish. It can be used on anything from metal to paper to wood. The really nice feature is that it protects from fingerprints, which is a problem if your jewelry is on display. They can be reached at 1-800-828-6216.
SOFTWARE
BEADING SOFTWARE
Q: My wildest beading dream is for some brilliant mind to create both peyote stitch and loom work software. I would love to find something that would allow me to create and store designs on my computer!
A: I thought people would like to know about a software program for beading (and other textile design) I found. It's called Stitch Painter, by Cochenille Design Studios, P. O. Box 4276, Encinitas, CA 92023. Their phone number is 1-619-259-1698. You can email them at cochenille@compuserve.com. It comes in Macintosh, Windows and Amiga versions, standard and gold. I purchased it at the Embellishments conference in Houston a couple of weeks ago. I haven't tried it yet, but the live demonstration at the booth was EXTREMELY impressive.
Judy Walker
A. Two other beading software programs are available at the following web sites:
http://www.cs.umb.edu/~lkramer/
http://pages.prodigy.com/beadville/home.htm
SOURCES
Q: Does anyone know who might carry crystal channels through mail order? Crystal channels are rounded pieces of colored crystals encased in a gold band so they can be linked together. They were very popular a few years ago (in mixed and primary and pastel colors) in long necklaces.
A: Crystal Channels can be ordered through ENTERPRISE ART, P.O. Box 2918, Largo, FL 34649; Phone: 1-800-366-2218; Retail store: 1-813-531-7533; FAX: 1-813-536-3509. They have free retail and wholesale catalogs.
Q: I used to be able to buy Nymo thread in colors, but now I only seem to find black or white. Does anyone have any good sources?
A: The following sources sell colored Nymo thread:
CAROL WILCOX WELLS stocks 9 colors, plus black and white. Request a catalog by calling 1-704-252-0274, or write to her at 177 Macon Ave., Asheville, NC 28804-3746.
EMPRYREAN BEADS stocks 4 to 6 colors in sizes 0, B & D. Request a catalog by calling 1-206-937-4146, or write to them at 7129 34th Ave., SW, Seattle, WA 98126. They also have a web site at: http://www.eskimo.com/~mckeemb/empyrean.html
BEADCATS (formerly Universal Synerget
ics), stocks 8 sizes of colored nymo (size D comes in 19 colors). Request a catalog by calling 1-503-625-2323, FAX 1-503-625-4329, or write to them at P.O. Box 2840, Wilsonville, OR 97070-9514.
BEADED TOUCAN stocks nymo in a lot of colors and sizes. They're wholesale suppliers. Call them at 1-800-851-5853 or e-mail them at toucan@pacificrim.net.
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MISCELLANEOUS
LEGAL ISSUES - COPYRIGHTING
Q: Can you point me in a useful direction about what the rules are about making "stuff" from a book or instructions and then selling it? Is the design copyrighted? Or is just the text copyrighted? What are the legal liability issues I need to be aware of when using beading techniques and designs from a book or printed page?
A: In general, any design that is published in a book is considered copyrighted. The reader CANNOT reproduce the designs in the book for sale UNLESS it is explicitly stated in the book that the reader can do so or that the design is considered public domain. In general you should get explicit written permission from the author/designer of the book/design before you use their design in your product. The author or designer may do one of the following: 1) not grant permission, 2) grant permission with commission & recognition, 3) grant permission with recognition but no commission. I don't believe that any law is violated if you are only reproducing a design for personal wear, but I am no lawyer so don't quote me on that one.
An author cannot copyright a technique, but can copyright the instructions of the how-to technique, i.e. you cannot make a copy (mechanical or otherwise), word for word of the instructions and use it for personal gain without permission from the author. You can use the technique in the book to create other designs or pieces without legal ramifications.
Anita Li Reinehr
BUYING BEADS - WHOLESALE VS. RETAIL
Q: I am new to beading, but in the past few months I have had several "spending accidents" with various bead companies. My question is, what is wholesale? Fire Mountain now says it's only wholesale but they don't ask for a wholesale number on the order form or over the phone. Likewise, Shipwreck Beads has "retail" pricing (a few beads), "wholesale" pricing (more beads) and "distributor" pricing (a kilo or more), yet they don't ask for a wholesale number on their order form either. Is it worth it for me to purchase a business license and file monthly tax forms to get beads wholesale if it's just for my beading addiction? Do some companies use the word wholesale just to mean the price is better if you buy more?
A: Such a good question! There are companies who very strictly only sell to resellers (people who design/make jewelry for resale and have tax #'s). Others, like Shipwreck (and now Caravan Beads) have decided to let customers decide based on their purchasing volume. If you're willing to buy Delicas from us by the 100 grams, for example, you qualify for our "wholesale" prices. If you want 7.5 gram tubes, you pay retail prices.
The pricing is very much determined by labor at our end. If we have to weigh out beads, repack them, label them and pay for tubes, etc., we have to charge more. If you buy in quantities that minimize our labor, or if we are selling items on strands, we can charge less.
Your other question, whether or not to get a business license, really depends on two questions: a) Do you want to be able to buy from ALL sources? If so, you will need a resale number? Keep in mind that the tax number will also save you paying sales tax when buying from local sources, as long as you're buying for eventual resale. b) Do you ever go to gem and mineral shows or major bead events? If you do (or think you might someday), then the resale number is your ticket to get into the wholesale part of these events.
Against this, weigh the paperwork to keep your state happy and the cost, if any, of getting a resale number.
Barry Kahn Caravan Beads
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Last Updated: 24 October 2000