This is an invitation to those of you who have not installed alcohol injection on your car. There are no downsides to alcohol injection.......Only advantages. Make a lot more power and protect your motor from detonation at the same time.

Installing a quality alky kit on your TR is very inexpensive. One of our members, Steve Monroe, has a site that gives easy, complete, instructions on how to make up and install what is commonly referred to as the DIY alchohol injection system. I put mine together over three years ago. While you have to get parts from different sources, it takes no more time to install than any other kit. Cost me about $150 then, and I think I can duplicate it today for $175. The DIY kit employs the use of the $60 Shurflo pump #2687. More pump than you'll ever need. If you have any problems locating any of the parts, or need some specific information on installation, just post here on the alky forum for answers. Additionally to the instructions on the website below, I have installed a warning light next to my boost gauge to let me know the pump is spraying and an activation or test button so I can activate the system manually. Also worth mentioning is, with the Sureflo pump, it's not necessary to gum up your alky mixture with lubricant. It's not necessary. Spend more if you want to. If you've read some posts here making you think installing or using alky was complicated, it's not at all. Here's Steve Monroe's website....
http://members.cox.net/stevemonroe/AlcoholInjMod.html


Talk about reliability, I have more than 75,000 miles on my car since I installed the DIY kit, and can truthfully say, it has never failed to come on. Never had a pump failure. I have no knock in high gear at 24 psi running a TE44 turbo. DIY alcohol injection not only gives you more power, cheaply, but protects your engine from destructive detonation, which could destroy your motor. I NEVER had any problem tuning it. Just figure your turn-on point, usually between 10 and 15#s of boost, set it and forget it. There is no pump speed to set. Pump is preset to 60 psi and I use a .032 jet and a one gallon reservoir. End of story! However, if you like to experiment, the pump pressure is adjustable to over 100 psi. I've read many posts about alky being hard to tune, I really don't know what they're talking about. They must not have a Steve Monroe DIY kit. This DIY kit can put your STOCK TR into the 12s. Get busy!

Here's a post by RAZOR that you should read if you're thinking about installing alcohol injection............

"Listen, an alcohol injection system is basically a pump, nozzle and tank. The simpler it is kept the easier it is. If you have the ability to install a car radio..you can do this.

No matter what route you take..they all lead to the same river..pump,nozzle, and tank. The debates are how to control the pumps. Both the prefab kits like the SMC, DIY, and stuff I do are all going in the same direction. They all require wiring, drilling, mounting stuff. The experience and technical assistance available on this board cannot be surpassed by any other web site.

If you do your reading and spend some time visiting sites and articles..you will get a grasp on line 1

The complications happen when you break into the 11's for power.. Thats when the power is really being made and requirements are higher.

Decide what you would like the car to do..then make a game plan how your going to take care of that issue..thats what this forum is for. To give different views on the same thing. I too had your feelings initially when I did mine 2 years ago..so i understand.

There are pro's and cons to every way you decide to go about doing this..they usually revolve around $$$ and convenience

And just added..you can do this with your scanmaster..as your end result of 02's will vary with fueling. Your looking for zero knock and a happy motor. Direct scan/turbolink are needed for extended diagnostics. like making chips.."

__________________
John DiCarlo
rudykz@cs.com

Thanks to Vegastang for this post on The Corral Net
 
(See thread: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.
php?s=&threadid=371147) 

Originally posted by msnow (Snow Performance)
 
 Vegastang - You are correct on the combustion cooling
 of methanol. The octane ( effect on detonation
 threshold) of methanol is actually higher than the 
 usual published 105. 
 Since methanol chills intake air significantly,
 the CFR octane test on alcohols requires special 
 test equipment to reheat intake air which nullifies 
 methanol's charge-density advantages and produces
 octane ratings that are lower than those of alcohol
 running in a real situation where the cold intake
 charge would tend to lower peak combustion temps
 and reduce the propensity to knock. For this reason,
 methanol has been rated between 115-126 octane in 
 real world situations. Ethanol is about 10 octane 
 points lower.

 Your input on do-it yourself kits while meant to
 inform warrants the following:

 Do it your self kits are great for the engineering
 types amoung us and those that can afford to do it
 wrong and fix. The benefit of an engineered system
 like the Boost Cooler® is all the parts are designed
 to work together and you end-up with a tested/ robust
 system. Also, tuning knowlege/ help ads value to a
 system like the Boost Cooler®.

 Our 200psi pump is not a rebadged 60 psi with a 
 regulator. It is a larger capacity 2 gal/min @ 200psi
 and will actually do 220psi. You won't buy this pump
 anywhere near $60.

 The correct way to do water/methanol injection is to
 inject a small qty at low boost and increase qty
 linearly as boost ( heat)increases which is accomplished
 with our variable controller. You simply will not get
 this improved driveability/power with a simple hobbs
 switch. 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
reply from Vegastang.

 Thats your opinion, my opinion is that if someone 
 doesn't have the knowledge to put the few necessary
 parts together for such a basic alcohol system, they
 really have absolutly no business spraying methanol
 in the first place, as it is a completly different 
 aspect of tuning and maintaining, both of which 
 require direct knowledge, not a phonecall to someone 
 who does.
 

 Of course I'm speaking of your $300kit,
 which is a direct ripoff of the DIY turbobuick kit
 which is $150 in parts that are very easily
 attainable, you just have the foresight to charge
 an extra $150 to put them in a box together and mail
 it. 

 The end user still has to install the whole 
 system the same way, so I really don't see what you've
"engineered" except an easy way to make money.

 And nobody here needs anything close to a 200psi pump,
 which I've never seen in your site or ads, so I don't
 even know what you are talking about. I was speaking
 of your 100psi pump which is the same pump as the 
 60psi pump, just modded to flow a higher psi. 

 And the *correct* way to inject methanol on a turbo 
 car such as a mustang that sees full boost as early
 as 2500rpm, would be in line with the MAF transfer 
 and fuel flow. Injecting it as a function of boost
 means that the same volume of methanol is being 
 injected from full boost at 2500rpm to 6000rpm on
 a car such as mine, which is far from optimal. It
 needs to increase in line with air and fuel flow.
 Regardless your $300 kit does in fact use a hobbs
 switch, as do countless 10 and 11 second turbobuicks,
 so this is irrelevent.

 What you're doing is fine, but I feel that if you want
 to advertise it here in a DIY atmosphere, expect 
 someone such as myself to point out the obvious.
 Vegastang