Big Red Aerial Photography Plane Construction Details

by Todd Ferrante  <back to homepage>
last edited 12/31/2006

Background: Now that I've been successfully flying this plane for awhile, I decided to do a separate webpage containing some of the construction details which have worked out nicely.

Design goals:
Keep it light.  Keep it simple.  Minimize or eliminate epoxy.  Attachment methods in order of preference: rubber bands, tape, hot glue, foam safe CA.

Wing construction:
I won't repeat information already on the main page.  Since writing the main page, I've found that the hot glue bond line holding the lower skin to the upper skin varies in quality considerably.  When puting on the lower skin it was necessary to lay down 2 to 3 feet of hot glue before joining the skin.  Where the glue had cooled, the bond has come loos over time.  I've used forecepts to pull out the bad line of hot glue and used fresh hot glue to re-attach the upper and lower skins.  Since this usually only invloves replacing glue in 6 inches or so at a time, the glue is hot, and the bond is strong.  If I had it to do over fresh, I would start with a single line of glue along a central rib, do each rib seperately, working out, and finish with small sections of the skin perimeter.  This would take a bit longer than laying down all the glue at once, but every line of glue would be fully hot.

Interior of wing before bottom skin was added.

Motor mount:
For maximum flexability in experimenting with different motors, I went with a stick style motor mount.  Just about every outrunner or can style brushless motor out there can atach to a stick mount.  Plus, I already had several clamp style mounting brackets made up for attaching outrunners to a stick.  Currently, the stick is held on with machine screws threaded into tapped threads in the uppe sheet of laminate.  If the threads ever strip, I can add nuts and washers, but thus far, this arrangement has proven more than adequate.  These pictures also show my method for attaching the nose and tail carbon tubes to the wing.  The button head cap screws are threaded into the arrow shaft inserts that formerly held the arrow tips.  The screws are a bit long, so when bottomed out in the insert the screws leave enough of a gap that rubber bands fit nicely under the screw head.  The arrows are held laterally by two strips of balsa hot glued to the wing on either side of the arrow shaft at the leading and trailing edges of the wing.  This gives an extremely secure attachment that disassembles in seconds.


Motor mount area.

Nose attachment:
The current nose is a chunk of packing foam with a thickness approximately the same width as the space between the nose arrow shafts.  These pictures also show the forward attachment points for the tail shafts.  The nose foam is roughly cut to shape and is held to the nose shafts with a couple pieces of tape and a rubber band.  The rear of the nose has a notch that fits over the leadign edge of the wing.  I regard the nose as completely disposable, and I've hacked it and tweaked it to experiment with camera mounting.  The critical feature is that it is very cushy and the connection to the wing is fairly soft.  This does two things.  First, the camera is pretty well insulated from motor vibrations.  Second, the plane can lawn dart from a reasonable height (so far about 10 feet) with zero damage to the wing. 


Nose attachment.

Tail details:
Like most things about this plane, I regard the tail as experimental.  It is pretty flimsy, so I expect it to get trashed sooner or later.   Currently though, it has twin rudders that are connected with a wire between them and actuated by a servo which directly grips that wire.  This is a bit crude in that the wire bends down when the servo actuates.  Still, it is weight efficient and simple.  The hinge between the horizontal tail surface and the elevator is a design I took from an Electrifly Flat-out Foamy I built.  I used parts left over from that kit in this tail.  A carbon tube is glued to the TE of the horizontal tail.  Little plastic brackets with C's on the front get glued into slots in the LE of the elevator.  These snap over the carbon tube and give a nice hinge that stiffens the length of the elevator.  Unfortunately, the little C brackets are pretty delicate, and I'm running out of replacements for the ones that break.  I expect that eventually this will become a simple tape hinge, if the whole tail doesn't get replaced first.


Tail details.  The elevator extensions didn't last past the first test flight, and the elevator now ends at the rudders.

Camera Mounting:
Most of the camera mounts I've seen around the web I feel to be way too complicated and heavy for the function they perform.  I tend to push the envelope on seeing what I can get away with in the opposite direction.  Of course, when you push the envelope you tend to find where the edge of the envelope is.  That's my justification for having two cameras fall from the sky thus far.  :)  The camera mount shown below seems to be a nice balance between light weight, security, and ease of removal.  The camera is bolted to the plywood base, and the base is rubber banded to the nose with two rubber bands.  This provides a very nice shock mounting for the camera, is easily removable, and seems to be utterly secure.  As an added measure of security, a lanyard could be used to attach the camera to one fo the nose tubes.


Camera mounting.