I managed to get in 550 miles this weekend (between
lunchtimes) through Eastern NC. The idea was simple -- the girls were all
headed out Saturday afternoon for various Girl Scout functions and I was going
to be home alone. So, I strapped the tent and sleeping bag on the back of
the bike and headed south.


I tried to stick to back roads, generally skirting Rt. 17
and taking a few interesting twists and turns along the way, a few unintentional
(have you ever noticed that some of those little lines on your map don't have
numbers?). I wasn't planning where to go, just that I'd head south and avoid
main roads as much as possible. I ended up all the way at Cedar Island, about
the farthest you can go without a boat. Morehead City is worth passing up,
Beaufort has a nice coffee shop and some good looking boats. The roads were
clear of traffic along the coast and on most of the back roads, with cruising
speeds at 70+, with a few sections run a tiny bit faster ;-).
I got to Morehead about 5 p.m. and had to decide left or
right along the coast. I remembered there were a couple of campgrounds to the
left, so I headed that way. I got to Sealevel (yes, an actual town, not the
condition, although the two were extremely close) and chatted with an gentile
older man who somewhat politely told me his campground was closed, but I could
take a leak around the back of the shop if I was so inclined. He turned on the
porch light so I could see (in front --so I could see the bike) and left. He
said the only other campground for 30 miles was probably closed, too.
I took a gamble, 10 miles north versus 30 miles south, and
it paid off, kind of. The campground was closed -- no water, electrics, etc.,
but for $10 they'd let me pitch my tent there anyway. By now it was pushing 7
p.m. and I wasn't looking forward to riding all the way back down a curvy
coastal road in the dark, just to stay in a fleabag hotel. Heck, they had a
cheap-o hotel there at the ferry dock. More importantly I was hungry and the
wait for a table was just about as long as it would take me to set up camp.
I ended up pitching my tent, eating some fried shrimp in
the one restaurant for 20 miles (the next closest one had gas pumps in front of
it) and washed up at the public toilet at the ferry docks. Did I mention you
can't go any farther without a boat?

I had a beer, tried to start a fire with wet wood, walked
along the water under a nearly full moon and generally enjoyed myself. Early to
bed and up and on the road this am by 7:30 or so, with everything packed. I
blasted back down the coast road (12 and 70) at significant speeds, enjoying the
fast sweepers and empty town roads. I was counting on no officers being out.
I managed to make a wrong turn near Beaufort and was 15
miles gone before I realized "this doesn't look right." That was also 14 miles
after my low fuel lamp went on. Oops. I finally got myself turned around,
realized my map sucked, regardless of the fact I didn't see the sign I needed,
and that it may be time for a GPS and made it into Beaufort for some gas and
breakfast.
I cruised the downtown area looking for an open
restaurant, but the only thing moving was several older gentlemen who were
sitting on a bench smoking cigarettes and drinking coffee. Those were the extent
of their movements, too.
I figured I was in the right place when I hopped off the
bike and said "This looks like the spot" and no one responded "for what?" Turns
out the little coffee shop was the only place open except for fast food, and the
coffee was good. The Roadster attracted a lot of attention (some of them even
got off the bench to walk around it) and I was once again thankful for the
fumeless fuel injection as they waved their cigs around and admired the bike.
One of them noticed I was plugged in and asked about my "electric suit." The
folks in that area have some accent! Kind of like Fargo meets the Clampets.
Soon I was un-geared and answered out and I went inside to
fall in love with the woman who owns the place. Apricot turnovers, raspberry
bread and fresh coffee. Good eats and soon the road called, sans electrics as it
was warming up fast.
I took 24 over to 58, up to 17, east on 55 and north on
306. Blah, blah, blah, I ended up at home about 2 p.m., stopping briefly for
lunch in Plymouth, NC ('cause that's as long as you ever want to stop there).
Although I could have jumped on 17 and saved an hour and a half, I avoided it
except for a mile or two here or there, except for the final 25 miles or so to
Chesapeake, letting me get in a few extra miles (just over 300 for the day).
All in all a great weekend for a winter ride! The only
thing better would have been to turn around and do it again.
Gear: The PIAAs were worth their weight in gold when the
sun when down in no-man's land. I turned them off a few times, and immediately
thanked my wife for such a wonderful Christmas present when they came back on.
The GS handguards -- a nice touch for keeping the chill off the hands during the
night and morning rides. The new bike shorts worked out very well for helping
with numb-bum. The camelback bladder-in-the-tank-bag trick worked well for sips
of water when the road slowed down. I found a better way to mount my Ocelot tank
bag on the Roadster's unusual tank, and a GPS will move higher on my wish list.